Need domestic fridge help

[Wnaplay]

At the campsite last weekend we had a park electrical issue affect about 15 spots. Turns out one of the legs or ground came off in the electrical panel at the park which resulted in everyone's power acting like it was only operating at half strength. When they finally got it figured out we realized our dometic fridge wasn't working. We had a blown 5A fuse on the control board. We replaced it and turned it back on. Set it to auto, no gas, after a few minutes the check light came on. After some testing we lost all power completely to the fridge, for what reason I have no idea, there was power just nothing functioned including the inside light. I get home and plug it into shore power, again nothing. Out of frustration I might have "tapped" the control board with the screwdriver handle and it all came back on again. I lit the fridge on gas to make sure that worked, then turned the gas off and let it run with the auto light on expecting the check light to come on again but it didn't so I thought maybe it's fixed. I let it sit for 24 hours and checked it, no check light but it didn't cool either. I unplugged the shore power and check light came on, I assume because I had the gas off and it was set to auto. Can anyone help figure this thing out. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Wnaplay

At the campsite last weekend we had a park electrical issue affect about 15 spots. Turns out one of the legs or ground came off in the electrical panel at the park which resulted in everyone's power acting like it was only operating at half strength. When they finally got it figured out we realized our dometic fridge wasn't working. We had a blown 5A fuse on the control board. We replaced it and turned it back on. Set it to auto, no gas, after a few minutes the check light came on. After some testing we lost all power completely to the fridge, for what reason I have no idea, there was power just nothing functioned including the inside light. I get home and plug it into shore power, again nothing. Out of frustration I might have "tapped" the control board with the screwdriver handle and it all came back on again. I lit the fridge on gas to make sure that worked, then turned the gas off and let it run with the auto light on expecting the check light to come on again but it didn't so I thought maybe it's fixed. I let it sit for 24 hours and checked it, no check light but it didn't cool either. I unplugged the shore power and check light came on, I assume because I had the gas off and it was set to auto. Can anyone help figure this thing out. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

I can't help with your fridge problem, but can tell you how to prevent it from happening again!
Get yourself a surge protector/EMS, it must be an EMS & not just a surge protector, either hardwired or portable & be sure to use it every time everywhere you plug the rv into. If you'd of had one connected this time it would have shut off all incoming power to your rv til it was back to good safe levels.
An EMS & a good quality adjustable water pressure regulator (shown below) should be mandatory for any/all rvs.

[Wnaplay]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

I can't help with your fridge problem, but can tell you how to prevent it from happening again!
Get yourself a surge protector/EMS, it must be an EMS & not just a surge protector, either hardwired or portable & be sure to use it every time everywhere you plug the rv into. If you'd of had one connected this time it would have shut off all incoming power to your rv til it was back to good safe levels.
An EMS & a good quality adjustable water pressure regulator (shown below) should be mandatory for any/all rvs.
Attachment 39497

One was in use and is definately good.

[chuckster57]

If its not cooling on AC or LP then you need to look at the cooling unit. Do you see ANY YELLOW powder? If so then WASH YOUR HANDS and stay away as that is harmful.

If not then you need to test the board. If you have no way to test it, then I suppose you could replace it, use Dinasour brand as it is much better IMO.

[jsb5717]

I’m not an expert so just spit balling. I would try to see if the issue is a 110v problem or a 12v problem since the fridge uses both in electric mode. The control board is 12v. When running on gas it is entirely 12v and propane and the 110 current isn’t in play. Have you checked the 12v fuse at the control center? Is it a resettable fuse? Maybe it needs to be replaced.

With a sudden voltage drop to the coach is it possible that the power converter took a hit and isn’t working correctly? Can you check it to see if it is putting out correct and consistent 12v voltage?

It’s easy to see if the 110 outlet for the fridge is working correctly but this sounds like a 12v problem to me. Maybe the control board is faulty but I would check those other things first.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Wnaplay

One was in use and is definately good.

If you had an EMS "in use & definitely good" the park pedestal power should not have caused your issue, it should not have reconnected power til it was safe.
You may also have a faulty EMS as well as a fridge issue. If you only have a "surge protector" then you only had the absolute minimal protection on the incoming power & may find issues with other electronic appliances that were in use at that moment.
Or was this remark referring to the water regulator?

[jsb5717]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Or was this remark referring to the water regulator?

LOL, I was curious about a water EMS system. Does it protect water pressure as well as water quality?

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by jsb5717

LOL, I was curious about a water EMS system. Does it protect water pressure as well as water quality?

Mine does. It's a "Reverse Impedance" (RI) system.