Refrigerator issues

[Phil53]

Had two issues with my frig. First time, we arrived at our seasonal site and discovered that the refrigerator was out…lights off, freezer defrosted. I changed a fuse from the main panel, and it was fine for a few days….then died again. Now im having issues with sparking when i change the fuse. Also wondering if at some point The frig may have switched over to gas, as my tank drained somewhere in the process. Appreciate any suggestions you may have on what to check…2017 Keystone Cougar. Thanks!

[chuckster57]

Welcome to the forum

Make and model of fridge?

[Phil53]

Its a Dometic DM 2852

[dutchmensport]

Any chance you may have been hit with a power surge? If you do not have an EMS or a good surge protector, it's possible you might have been hit. Electricity is fickle. A surge can take out one appliance and leave a different one perfectly fine. It's just a thought?

[Phil53]

Interesting thought. We asked if they'd lost power that week and the camp had not....but it does sound like that might be the issue. I'm also thinking that I might have run successfully on gas before the tank ran out (which coincidentally happened around the same time.) Next trip I plan to disconnect the battery, see what runs on house current, try it on battery after replacing fuses.... and try running it on propane....just to isolate whether it's an electrical issue. I'm also curious; wondering if there's a fuse box on the back of the frig that might have been blown.....

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Phil53

Interesting thought. We asked if they'd lost power that week and the camp had not....but it does sound like that might be the issue. I'm also thinking that I might have run successfully on gas before the tank ran out (which coincidentally happened around the same time.) Next trip I plan to disconnect the battery, see what runs on house current, try it on battery after replacing fuses.... and try running it on propane....just to isolate whether it's an electrical issue. I'm also curious; wondering if there's a fuse box on the back of the frig that might have been blown.....

Your fridge uses 12VDC for the control board, interior light and front display. 110VAC is for the heating element in the chimney. If you blew a 12V fuse, I would look at the backside lower access and verify connections and dry conditions. Next remove corner covering the burner, look for soot, debris and foreign stuff.

The stiff wire is the sparker/flame sensor. Check the gap ( 1/4” IIRC). Feel free to use compressed air to blow the area clean.

[Phil53]

I disconnected the battery and replaced the fuse. They second I reconnected it, the fuse blew again. Plan is to go after the back of the unit next trip….see if the fuse in the back is still good, and check out some of the additional suggestions. I’ll post when I know more…Thanks!

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Phil53

I disconnected the battery and replaced the fuse. They second I reconnected it, the fuse blew again. Plan is to go after the back of the unit next trip….see if the fuse in the back is still good, and check out some of the additional suggestions. I’ll post when I know more…Thanks!

Things to remember:

1. If you are connected to shore power, you WILL have 12 VDC provided by the power converter regardless of the battery connection status.

2. Disconnecting the battery and being plugged into shore power will not remove 12 VDC from the fuse panel.

3. If you have EITHER the battery OR shore power connected, you will have 12 VDC available (pending fuse status) at the refrigerator.

4. Disconnecting the battery or pulling the 12 volt fuse will NOT remove 120 VAC power at the refrigerator. YOU MUST ALSO SHUT OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER AND/OR UNPLUG SHORE POWER !!!!! Otherwise, you may electrocute yourself.....

5. When using compressed air to clean the carbon/soot from the burner assembly, do not use "extremely high air pressure". There is a "twisted heat deflector" that hangs in the top of the chimney (near the top fins on the back of the refrigerator). Directing high pressure air into the chimney can (not will) blow that deflector plate off it's hanger.

6. There are two fuses behind that black plastic cover on the back lower left side of the refrigerator. Check them with a multimeter to confirm their status. If either of those fuses is blown, the refrigerator may not work, BUT even if both of them are blown, it won't explain why the fuse on the trailer is blowing. There is something else also going on, so don't just change a fuse and expect it to work. It probably won't.....

Bottom line: There are two voltage requirements for the refrigerator. 12 VDC to run the controls for gas operation AND 12VDC plus 120VAC (shore power) to run the electric operation.....

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Things to remember:

1. If you are connected to shore power, you WILL have 12 VDC provided by the power converter regardless of the battery connection status.

2. Disconnecting the battery and being plugged into shore power will not remove 12 VDC from the fuse panel.

3. If you have EITHER the battery OR shore power connected, you will have 12 VDC available (pending fuse status) at the refrigerator.

4. Disconnecting the battery or pulling the 12 volt fuse will NOT remove 120 VAC power at the refrigerator. YOU MUST ALSO SHUT OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER AND/OR UNPLUG SHORE POWER !!!!! Otherwise, you may electrocute yourself.....

5. When using compressed air to clean the carbon/soot from the burner assembly, do not use "extremely high air pressure". There is a "twisted heat deflector" that hangs in the top of the chimney (near the top fins on the back of the refrigerator). Directing high pressure air into the chimney can (not will) blow that deflector plate off it's hanger.

6. There are two fuses behind that black plastic cover on the back lower left side of the refrigerator. Check them with a multimeter to confirm their status. If either of those fuses is blown, the refrigerator may not work, BUT even if both of them are blown, it won't explain why the fuse on the trailer is blowing. There is something else also going on, so don't just change a fuse and expect it to work. It probably won't.....

Bottom line: There are two voltage requirements for the refrigerator. 12 VDC to run the controls for gas operation AND 12VDC plus 120VAC (shore power) to run the electric operation.....

Just FYI to the OP.
These same operation procedures also apply to your water heater, 12 volt to run on gas & 120 volt/12 volt needed to run on elec.