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Old 10-26-2020, 02:57 PM   #41
HDroadglide
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They charged me $900.00. I went to the fair grounds and they came over and installed my brakes. It took about 6 Hrs.
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:17 AM   #42
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I just wanted to reply to your criticism. Firstly, I refuse to be " taken to task" so no I do not allow you to do so. Your opinion is just exactly that. Your opinion. My time is as valuable as yours and if I choose to put a lot of information into a post then I am exercising "my choice" to do so. My post was lengthy as it happen to address no less then five subjects. If in the future, if you come across a post that you feel is lengthy then exercise "your choice" and don't read it. Rest assured, I will continue to exercise my choice by creating informative and hopefully helpful posts when I feel justified in doing so. Have a great and non-judgmental day
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:28 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by EMTPRescue View Post
I just wanted to reply to your criticism. Firstly, I refuse to be " taken to task" so no I do not allow you to do so. Your opinion is just exactly that. Your opinion. My time is as valuable as yours and if I choose to put a lot of information into a post then I am exercising "my choice" to do so. My post was lengthy as it happen to address no less then five subjects. If in the future, if you come across a post that you feel is lengthy then exercise "your choice" and don't read it. Rest assured, I will continue to exercise my choice by creating informative and hopefully helpful posts when I feel justified in doing so. Have a great and non-judgmental day
Just a suggestion here. Not criticizing the content. Breaking up a lengthy post into several paragraphs would make it much easier to read and follow. A single paragraph of that length can make it difficult to read and easy to get lost in.
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:32 AM   #44
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Point taken. Thanks for the respectful suggestion
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Old 10-29-2020, 06:52 AM   #45
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In summation I would respectfully submit that these large and heavy units are very much "under braked".
Sounds like a DOT problem... or whoever makes the regulations to define braking capacity.

Have you cranked your brake controller to the max? I did several trips across the rocky mountains with my controller set too low and as a result warped two sets of front discs after some extreme braking. Mine is now at 10 and I still can't lock up the trailer wheels... but it definitely grabs harder (16GVWR Fuzion).

In hindsight I would do a disc conversion if I wasn't thinking of getting rid of the trailer (downsizing due to lifestyle changes).

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Dexter makes a package but they also make the stock axles with the stock drum brakes so I am a little hesitant to use the same manufacture that has got me to point of needing the upgrade to begin with.
They are simply doing what every manufacturer is doing... meeting the minimum regulation requirements to keep costs down in order to sell their product instead of exceeding the regulations for a higher cost. They'll happily sell the consumer an upgrade that the trailer company doesn't want to pay for.

Take the Dexter shackles as another example. If your trailer is like mine, it comes with simple shackles probably 3/16" thick holding the springs to the frame. These will wear out. But for a mere $75cdn retail upgrade, you can get Dexter shackles that are twice as thick AND come with wet bolts. $75 retail means they could skip making the thin ones and supply these to the trailer manufacturer for a fraction of that cost.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:26 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by cenders View Post
Sounds like a DOT problem... or whoever makes the regulations to define braking capacity.

Have you cranked your brake controller to the max? I did several trips across the rocky mountains with my controller set too low and as a result warped two sets of front discs after some extreme braking. Mine is now at 10 and I still can't lock up the trailer wheels... but it definitely grabs harder (16GVWR Fuzion).

In hindsight I would do a disc conversion if I wasn't thinking of getting rid of the trailer (downsizing due to lifestyle changes).


They are simply doing what every manufacturer is doing... meeting the minimum regulation requirements to keep costs down in order to sell their product instead of exceeding the regulations for a higher cost. They'll happily sell the consumer an upgrade that the trailer company doesn't want to pay for.

Take the Dexter shackles as another example. If your trailer is like mine, it comes with simple shackles probably 3/16" thick holding the springs to the frame. These will wear out. But for a mere $75cdn retail upgrade, you can get Dexter shackles that are twice as thick AND come with wet bolts. $75 retail means they could skip making the thin ones and supply these to the trailer manufacturer for a fraction of that cost.
Not to mention that most folks don't know that drum brakes do require adjustments occasionally once worn, just like automobiles before disc brakes. Very few RVs have the forward self adjusting feature.
Typically this is done annually when packing the bearings, but there are those that don't do that maintenance item either, but rather use the EZ Lube.
If needing to set the truck controller to max setting & still not stopping/slowing the rv there's an issue with the rv brakes, need adjusting, worn out, loose wires or full of grease due using the EZ lube. I recommend pulling them apart to find the problem sooner than later.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:44 AM   #47
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GMC OE brake controller set at 10. I have the same experience as you. The trailer braking is perceptible but after my two near misses this summer the braking is no where near acceptable or safe. I too warped my front rotators during that trip this past summer but they have since straightened themselves out with a bit of no load everyday braking/driving.

Along with the trailer brakes I will also be looking at changing out my stock GMC brakes to an upgraded system with vented and drilled rotors with ceramic pads.

Montana uses the MORryde heavier gauge shackles with wet bolts from the factory and the MORryde CRE3000 shackle mount system as well which provides greater travel.

I have seen in a YouTube video that Dexter has a lateral support system that bolts between the shackles to give them a great deal more lateral loading strength. I have a friend that had two shackles snap because of the lateral loading he experienced when he was towing with a very powerful 90 degree cross wind. The wind was powerful enough that he saw two Semis blown of the road lying on their side.

We bought this trailer at a very competitive price point last spring from a widow that had just lost her husband to Cancer. They had never used it. He got sick a week after they brought it home early last fall and two weeks before he was to retire. They were going to go on their first winter escape trip to Yuma.

As such I have room to spend some extra money on the coach. There is know way I am going to tempt fate now that I know the trailer's braking limitations.
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Old 10-29-2020, 08:52 AM   #48
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On the same YouTube video that I referenced before highlighting the shackle cross member upgrade it was also mentioned that manufactures DO NOT set the brakes up to the point that they are just shy of touching the drums. This might explain some of the challenges that I am experiencing where in the shoes have to travel to far to provide the required braking. Also perhaps there is grease on the shoes from an inboard seal failure as well. Lots of things to investigate next spring once the snow is gone up here on the great white north.
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Old 10-29-2020, 04:22 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by travelin texans View Post
Not to mention that most folks don't know that drum brakes do require adjustments occasionally once worn, just like automobiles before disc brakes. Very few RVs have the forward self adjusting feature.
Typically this is done annually when packing the bearings, but there are those that don't do that maintenance item either, but rather use the EZ Lube.
If needing to set the truck controller to max setting & still not stopping/slowing the rv there's an issue with the rv brakes, need adjusting, worn out, loose wires or full of grease due using the EZ lube. I recommend pulling them apart to find the problem sooner than later.
Absolutely and good points. I’ve inspected and adjusted mine. All of the wiring seems good. I just can’t get them to lock up, which from what I know, is how you tell that your brake controller is set too strong. But they do grab.
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Old 10-29-2020, 05:09 PM   #50
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Cenders, keep in mind that with a 16K Fuzion you aren't going to get the wheels to lock on pavement ever, and maybe not on gravel/dirt unless everything is just right. I also would pull each one down, check voltage at each connection, and do the adjustment/lube and inspection at that time.
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Old 10-29-2020, 09:05 PM   #51
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The newer trucks integrated brake controllers are proportional with speed & pedal pressure so trying to lock up the brakes at low speed in a parking lot may not be possible.
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Old 10-30-2020, 04:15 AM   #52
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The newer trucks integrated brake controllers are proportional with speed & pedal pressure so trying to lock up the brakes at low speed in a parking lot may not be possible.
^^^This is true.
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Old 10-30-2020, 05:47 AM   #53
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The newer trucks integrated brake controllers are proportional with speed & pedal pressure so trying to lock up the brakes at low speed in a parking lot may not be possible.
Yup, that's true. If you want to check the brakes pull the pin on the emergency break switch and pull the unit forward.
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Old 10-30-2020, 08:40 AM   #54
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Don't they go to max. when you manually apply the slider, never tried on mine yet. Have too wait till May.
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Old 10-30-2020, 09:00 AM   #55
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Performance charged us about 2100 for the complete job including all parts and labor. We are a heavy Montana at almost 17000 pounds. Lighter trailers are less expensive. Moryde will do 8000 pound dependent suspension and disc brakes for around 4500 at their factory. You can stay in the trailer with electric supplies.
How long ago was that? They quote on their website $2200+ for parts for double 8000# axles.
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Old 10-30-2020, 09:11 AM   #56
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Mine had double 7K IS & disc it was about 6500 in May 19. 8K would have been 7000
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Old 10-30-2020, 12:00 PM   #57
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quote today via email:
Tandem 7K IS $4199
Tandem 8K IS $4899

Tandem 7K Discs & IS $6999
Tandem 8K Discs & IS $7499
At their shop in Elkhart.
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Old 10-30-2020, 04:07 PM   #58
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Smile

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Don't they go to max. when you manually apply the slider, never tried on mine yet. Have too wait till May.
That is what I wondered, and tried. I figured a manual engagement would go to max. But alas, as notanlines says... with a 16k trailer I won't get lockup anyway.

The trailer is put to bed for the winter now, but in the spring I'll be inspecting them again and will check voltages to know for sure.
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Old 10-31-2020, 10:00 AM   #59
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Performance Trailer Braking

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I had our rig upgraded to discs in June of 2019. I had Performance Trailer Braking do the upgrade and the installer did the work in the RV park we were at. All the parts were shipped to the park prior to our arrival. We could have just as easily had the work done anywhere. They used the 7K/8K brake kit with 8K rotors with 9/16" studs, Brakerite actuator, and all the parts needed to complete the job. I also paid extra to upgrade the bearings to Timkens, so that was a bit more than $160 extra. Parts were just under $2300. The installer fee was $1000, which was worth the cost, as he had all the trick tools for doing the work. 405-626-7009 www.performancetrailerbraking.com

These disc brakes work great and now wish I had done this years ago. This was the rotors and calipers installed at the end of the first 1/2 day. Also photo of the actuator not yet wired.
I also used Performance Trailer Braking to supply all the parts needed to change over to disc brakes. I paid the same amount for the brakes but I did the install myself. They supply everything needed including 7 day support for any problems you may encounter. By far the best upgrade I've done on our fifthwheel.
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Old 11-14-2020, 07:08 PM   #60
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Disc Brake Conversion Update

Have been camping in Arizona without internet for three weeks so no responses from me, the OP.

Regards the redline on my truck. 4000 rpms.

Cost/ schedule - I had the conversion done by a Performance Trailer Braking installer (Dennis Hageman at his ranch in Cochise, AZ). Cost of the parts conversion from PTB with the addition of wet bolts was about $2400. That was $1200 less than I was quoted by my local trailer dealer. Labor cost was over $1000 less than quoted by my local dealer. Work was completed in one day.

Performance - During the test ride, Dennis had me do an "emergency stop." I was amazed at how quickly and smoothly the truck/ trailer combination stopped. I found the same during the 800 mile ride home; slowing and stopping is definitely smoother. I had two occasions where a vehicle passed me then cut in front of me and slowed abruptly. Both times, I had plenty of stopping power without having to do an emergency stop.

Bottom line - this upgrade was definitely worth the money for me.
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