Water heater anode

[Hovercat]

I am just beginning my questions on a new to me 2016 Springdale Summerland mini. The water heater anode looks like it is the 4 year old original. Before I begin trying to remove that rusted bolt with a breaker bar, and possibly a pipe extension, can I damage the heater by applying the excessive torque that will be necessary?I do not want to ruin a working but need maintenance heater until finances recover from all the other rv setup purchases a newcomer has made.
Thank you.

[Logan X]

If the anode is four years old you definitely need to replace it. It seems like it is possible the head appears rusted but it is not seized up. I use a 1/2 inch breaker bar when I remove mine and I haven’t had any issue with that.

Suburban water heaters have an anode and Atwood heaters don’t.

When you open up the water heater to change the anode you should also flush out any sediment that is in the tank. Also, make sure to use Teflon tape when you reinstall the new anode.

Here is a link to a flush wand

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Rinser-.../dp/B002XL2IBS

Here is a video on water heater maintenance if you want more information -

https://youtu.be/HbJN2AWov-A

[dutchmensport]

It might be tight, and it might be rusted up, but you should be able to remove it without damaging anything. Just remember, it comes out by turning counter-clockwise. As long as you are applying pressure to remove it counter-clockwise, you won't damage anything. Go slow and apply smooth steady pressure. I would not recommend banging the ratchet handle with a hammer or anything like that. Just pressure, and if it's not enough, add a cheater bar for more leverage. Don't bang, just steady pressure. It will break open.

[JRTJH]

If you "reach the limit where you're uncomfortable applying more pressure".. I've had a few that were that way. You can use an impact wrench (pneumatic or electric) to loosen the anode rod.

Be sure to remember that if the water heater is/has recently been in use, the contents may be "scalding hot" AND if you use an electric impact wrench, be sure to "stop short of compete removal of the anode rod, you don't want hot or cold water rushing around the anode to soak your impact wrench, especially if it's still plugged into the wall socket !!!!!

[flybouy]

And turn the water off, open a hot water faucet and relive the pressure. I'm tall and my electrode is at a height that if it would shoot out with 60+ p.s.i. of water pressure behind like a rocket launcher it would hit me right in.....well, let's just say my voice would raise several octaves and I'd walk like a cowpoke that just got in from a long cattle drive!

[Hovercat]

Thank you. This will be done at the storage lot, cold, propane and battery in storage. I was just concerned about twisting the tank, and perhaps the fittings on it. Or even breaking the entire unit loose from the mountings. I hope to try this Thursday evening after work.

[Alpine]

There are several penetrating oil products on the market to pre-spray on the rusty threads that will aid in the removal of your anode rod.

Seafoam Deep Creep, Fluid Film, BG In-Force, WD-40 Rust Specialist, CRC Knock'er Loose.

[Hovercat]

Thank you. I will have a can of PB blaster available, but will try brute force first, Wife will have a fit over chemicals near potable water, even though I plan on cleaning the tank threads with a wire brush before installing the new part.

[chuckster57]

I would be careful about using Pb blaster. The chance of contaminating your water system might be a reason not to use it. Call me paranoid or over cautious, but I wouldn’t use it. A longer breaker bar would be my resource.

[flybouy]

I wouldn't be concerned with using PB blaster. I don't think it's that good to penetrate through all those threads. Even if it did, it would be maybe a drop going into a tank full of water that's going to come flooding out when the anode is removed. And then you're going to flush it with more water.
I'm a cautious person but I don't see the risk. YMMV

[Ksupaul]

If you haven’t removed it I can’t recommend Logan’s point of flushing the tank when you do. I went long time leaving water in it all summer and when winterizing, but not flushing. Sediment built up. Things got foul. Then I finally flushed and realized tons of sediment was in there, Made all difference in the world. Honestly ever since, even storing for a week I pull the anode and drain the tank. Sediment issue hasn’t crept up since.

[roadglide]

I use a 1/2 clear rubber hose taped to old vacuum attachment using shop wet vac will pick up a lot of white scale left inside the water heater after flushing with by the Wand. I’m going on 4 years with aluminum anode rod it’s still 70 percent . I clean it with wire wheel on a drill. Aluminum last longer then magnesium rods . The first magnesium rod left a Lotta crap in my water heater after one year so I prefer the aluminum rod and keep the water heater clean.

[Hovercat]

I managed to get it out without chemicals. Still had a couple inches of deteriorated magnesium in the center, so it looks like at least some maintenance was done in the past 4 years. A good thing when buying a used trailer.
I placed it back, as a plug, until Amazon delivers the replacement Thursday.
Thanks to all here for the advice. I am certain I will have more problems soon!

[ChuckS]

Take a small brass brush and work the threads inside the water heater and clean them up.. wash out the inside of the water heater till you don’t see any more white deposits come out.

Use Teflon tape on the threads of the new anode rod when installing.

[Landlubber]

When replacing the anode (think it is zinc) I apply never seize. So the problem of removing the anode is easier.

[flybouy]

Landlubber, the anode threads are a pipe thread therefore they are tapered. Never Seize is not a sealant and therefore you will most likely develope a leak at the threads.

[firestation12]

Your fear of ruining the tank by using more brute force, should be tempered by the fact that if you don’t get the anode out, corrosion might be the source of tank failure. Go for it!

[SCGatl]

My Suburban heater in my 175LHS Hideout doesnt have a separate drain, so I have to remove the anode to get the water out. The first time i removed it, I had to use an impact drill (battery powered), and the anode had almost nothing left. Lots of residue and crud to flush out... Now, I order these 2 at a time so I always have a spare on hand.

[raylinkz]

Whenever I winterize I remove the anode rod and flush out the water heater tank. so at least once a year I remove the anode and have never had a problem removing from time to time. I replace the anode whenever it is about 1/2 inch left.

Whenever I have any bolt that is 'frozen' from rust, etc I use a breaker bar and apply pressure in clockwise and counter-clockwise direction which usually will break loose the threads.

I also use some thread tape. It's use is good even if they are pipe thread cut. Just don't carry over the tape into internal end and it will help seal and make removal easier.
TMSAISTI

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by SCGatl

My Suburban heater in my 175LHS Hideout doesnt have a separate drain, so I have to remove the anode to get the water out. The first time i removed it, I had to use an impact drill (battery powered), and the anode had almost nothing left. Lots of residue and crud to flush out... Now, I order these 2 at a time so I always have a spare on hand.

If you order 2 every time then you must have a lot of them on hand. The first time order 2, then you only need to order one to replace the one you pull out and you still have a spare.