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Old 01-30-2017, 03:47 AM   #1
busterbrown
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Is there such an animal as tire replacement overkill?

Within the next 60 days, I will be upgrading my trailer tires for our upcoming RV camping season. Since I bought the trailer at the end of March last year, this will be a nice 1 year anniversary upgrade. I have two options both of which include upsizing to 15 inch wheels (OEM are 14s). First, do I upgrade to 15" x 5.5" wheels with max carrying capacity of 2150 lbs? I'd buy LRD Carlisle HD tires, size 205/75/15 with max inflation pressure of 65 PSI.

Or do I over go balls out with 15" x 6" wheels with max carrying capacity of 2600 lbs mated to the same Carlisle HD tire but this time in size 225/75/15? Max pressure is 65 PSI.

Both tire and wheel sets will improve upon the OEM's barely satisfactory ratings of 1760 lbs at max pressure of 50 PSI. I'm just wondering if the latter set is excessive and unwarranted. The higher rated set is about $300 more too. GVWR of trailer is 7600 lbs and I would never appoach that. I still can't believe the safe margins with OEM rubber is paper thin. 7040...unbelievable! When is a tire upgrade considered overkill for the intended application?
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:54 AM   #2
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I'm all for the upgrade. Way too many odd things to worry about on the road to let the OEM tires headline the show. What would the original price be before you add $300.00 for the further upgrade?
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Old 01-30-2017, 03:58 AM   #3
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You do not mention what the OEM tire size is, only that it is a 14. You should compare the outside diameter of the 14" OEM tire to those you are considering in the 15" to be sure you do not have any clearance issues.
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Old 01-30-2017, 05:05 AM   #4
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Your tires will degrade each year. Because of that Carlisle recommends that you use tires with a least 20% more capacity than the weight they are carrying. With the GVWR of your trailer, you probably have in the area of 6,500-7,000 lbs on the wheels. Both tires you are considering will exceed the 20% mark. The biggest killer of trailer tires is heat. That's why an underinflated tire will typically fail, it builds excess heat. Personally, if you were talking about upgrading to an E tire, I'd say you were going into overkill and would probably add extra wear on your trailer due to bouncing with the limited sidewall flex. As far as what you are looking to do, I'd go with the higher of the two. Many of us with the heavier 5ers have done the same, OE tires were E, we upgrade to a G.
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:52 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
I'm all for the upgrade. Way too many odd things to worry about on the road to let the OEM tires headline the show. What would the original price be before you add $300.00 for the further upgrade?
I can get a set of 4 wheels, 15"x5.5" for around $160. These would be new take-offs. Otherwise, the 15"x6" would be $99 each ($400 total). Not many options for my hub's 5x4.5 bolt configuration at a 2600 lb capacity. Tons to choose from at 2150 though. Now that I look at it, Carlisle HD tire prices for the 225's ($62) are cheaper than the 205's ($72). It would probably be around a $220 upgrade then.
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:02 AM   #6
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You do not mention what the OEM tire size is, only that it is a 14. You should compare the outside diameter of the 14" OEM tire to those you are considering in the 15" to be sure you do not have any clearance issues.
I have plenty of room under the fenders. Several inches on all sides. In fact, 225/75/15's are standard on the same Keystone trailer than includes a 3rd slide out (311BHS). OEM is a puny 205/75/14.
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:07 AM   #7
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As far as what you are looking to do, I'd go with the higher of the two. Many of us with the heavier 5ers have done the same, OE tires were E, we upgrade to a G.
Yeah, I'm sure leaning that way. The wife doesn't understand that "why on a 10 month old trailer are we upgrading wheels and tires already". I need to show her some pics of the destruction that an ST tire failure can create at highway speeds. She'll then see the money as well spent.
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:59 AM   #8
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You're doing the right thing and I'd go with the higher upgrade. It IS amazing to me the tiny margins that Keystone will allow on their tires. As far as damage pics for the wife; I didn't post any, just of the destroyed tire. I think the dealer has plenty and I'm sure there are some on the forum. If not, just have her read thru some of the stories. 7k damage in my case.
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:22 AM   #9
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The RMA recommends replacements should have 15% of load capacity reserves above the axles GAWR. I suspect your axles are GAWR 3500#. That would make the ST205/75R15D a very suitable replacement, load capacity wise. However, if you still have warranty coverage on your trailer, regular or extended, you should insure that using non-standard replacement tire sizes will not cause the warranty to be voided.

Using tires that are much stiffer than the trailer was designed to encounter may cause unforeseen suspension and frame problems. The cabinetry could also suffer the effects of such a tire change.
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:39 AM   #10
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The RMA recommends replacements should have 15% of load capacity reserves above the axles GAWR. I suspect your axles are GAWR 3500#. That would make the ST205/75R15D a very suitable replacement, load capacity wise. However, if you still have warranty coverage on your trailer, regular or extended, you should insure that using non-standard replacement tire sizes will not cause the warranty to be voided.

Using tires that are much stiffer than the trailer was designed to encounter may cause unforeseen suspension and frame problems. The cabinetry could also suffer the effects of such a tire change.

It would seem that stiffer tires would, and could, cause some sort of problem with the stiffer ride but when we went from LRD to LRE on our 10k lb. trailer it actually improved the ride/bouncing/jumping greatly.
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:42 AM   #11
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You're doing the right thing and I'd go with the higher upgrade. It IS amazing to me the tiny margins that Keystone will allow on their tires. As far as damage pics for the wife; I didn't post any, just of the destroyed tire. I think the dealer has plenty and I'm sure there are some on the forum. If not, just have her read thru some of the stories. 7k damage in my case.
Tire fitments are guided by government regulations that only approve minimum safety standards. So it’s not all in the hands of the vehicle manufacturers. They cannot be forced to do more than the regulations require. The FMVSS also mentions “appropriate” fitments. Appropriate (IMO) means nothing more than what the regulations stipulate.

Here is an excerpt from the FMVSS regulation that directs tire fitments for RV trailer axles on trailers having a GVWR of 10K lbs or less.

“(S4.2.2.1Except as provided in S4.2.2.2, the sum of the maximum load ratings of the tires fitted to an axle shall not be less than the GAWR of the axle system as specified on the vehicle's certification label required by 49 CFR part 567. If the certification label shows more than one GAWR for the axle system, the sum shall be not less than the GAWR corresponding to the size designation of the tires fitted to the axle.)”
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Old 01-30-2017, 06:00 PM   #12
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Thanks CW. I know the manufacturer can cut to slim margins and be within the law but I didn't know at one time, and I doubt many new folks, just how slim they can get with the tire weights. When you have 50-100lbs over max per tire to carry your weight...and you hit a pothole, at 45, you just pushed that number into the stratosphere IMO. I'm not trying to argue, just trying to point out to those with questions that just because the tire "fits within the rules" it's not necessarily safe. Thanks for your explanation.
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Old 01-31-2017, 04:45 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by busterbrown View Post
Yeah, I'm sure leaning that way. The wife doesn't understand that "why on a 10 month old trailer are we upgrading wheels and tires already". I need to show her some pics of the destruction that an ST tire failure can create at highway speeds. She'll then see the money as well spent.
Just about any trip down the road when you see RVs you can point out the number of them that are missing skirting or the aluminum is a bit messed up and you can start to get an idea of how many have been messed up with a tire failure. One problem with RV tire failures is that you still have another tire that is holding everything up so you typically don't notice it until the rubber starts flying. That's why many of us run TPMS. You can read my story and some added info from others here. When you get your new tires mounted, have them use steel valve stems so you can add TPMS sensors.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ighlight=saved
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:38 AM   #14
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Government regulations not withstanding, the common sense and practical consideration due to long term tire degradation is to start out with a more robust capability. So, going from a LRC to a LRD or a LRD to a LRE with a historically quality tire like a Maxxis or a Carlisle with metal stems and a TPMS system are probably the best preventative measures one can attempt to mitigate tire failure issues. This all assumes that the wheel PSI/weight capability is up for the task.

Don't hit curbs with the sidewall. If I do, I replace the tire. Given that, and having learned the hard way by being a good guy , no one borrows my trailers anymore. I do the towing or they get a trailer elsewhere.

Use common sense, don't go cheap, do the right thing and create your own luck.
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Old 01-31-2017, 03:33 PM   #15
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"The wife doesn't understand that why on a 10 month old trailer are we upgrading wheels and tires already." If you would like I can forward the pictures to you of our $9000 damage from two blowouts from the China bombs. Camping World did a great job on the repairs and the Sailuns have done a great job ever since.
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