More ground clearance!

[[TASF]Overkill]

2009 Keystone Sprinter 264BHS. 30 feet long.

I've got 2 things on my mind:

1 - My truck's receiver is about 2 inches higher than my WDH shank can support. So my trailer isn't level when towing. A longer shank is around $100. Damn.

2 - This camper is going to be lived in... and camped in. And the "living" place is way back in the woods on a crappy up and down mountain road. I am concerned about getting it back there, as I know of at least two transitions that are very likely to bury the back of the trailer.

It seems to me I could "solve" both of these problems with a little suspension lift. Level towing and ability to negotiate rougher terrain. I know very little about suspension on anything with more than 2 wheels. I do know that this "little" camper already has the springs above the axles, which would apparently be the easiest fix. I have considered larger tires which miiiight get me where I'd like to be, but don't know what else might be worth considering.

My local dealer said that "They don't do that" with regard to lifting the camper at all, referenced towing being more unpleasant etc. I'm not too worried about wind resistance while towing... It won't really be towed around all that much. But I don't want it to kill anyone....

[bobbecky]

Might hurt a little spending $100 on a longer shank, but in the long run, you would spend a load more on modifications to the trailer. Our FW is a bit high in the front, so a bit low in the rear. Wish it was only $100 to get the rear of our rig higher.

[[TASF]Overkill]

Originally Posted by bobbecky

Might hurt a little spending $100 on a longer shank, but in the long run, you would spend a load more on modifications to the trailer. Our FW is a bit high in the front, so a bit low in the rear. Wish it was only $100 to get the rear of our rig higher.

If my only concern was level towing, I'd probably go with the longer shank. But since there's at least one other significant advantage (Maybe even a crucial one! Won't really know until the site work is done and I have somewhere to tow it and turn it around) to the ground clearance being increased, it got me thinking... maybe I can spend that $100-$120 towards fixing two problems instead of just one!

[sourdough]

I would think any lift on a travel trailer would dramatically increase its instability as well as that of the TV. You did not specify the type of TV but I wouldn't even think of doing something like that without a DRW vehicle.

As far as lifting it, which I wouldn't recommend, the only thing I can think of is a lift block under the springs. They are used at times in lifts for vehicles and since you aren't going to find a "suspension lift kit" for an RV this may be the only choice. Finding blocks that would fit would be challenging if not impossible. Again, doing that would make your trailer very unstable IMO. A new shank and leveling the trailer may be the best you can do.

Everything in life has its limitations. Maybe the trailer and the place(s) you want to take it are just incompatible

[Laredo291OH]

I'm a partner in small weld shop that is a side business. Last winter we raised a camper for a friend. It wasn't a Keystone and used torsion axles, not springs. We unbolted the axles, then welded 2" wide by 6" tall tubing to the bottom of the frame. We reinforced it laterally and then bolted the axles back to the bottom of the tubing we installed. The camper originally sat very low due the torsion axles and he had actually tore the rear stabilizer jacks off of the camper several times. He says the camper tows just as well now, if not better than it did before. Having been under my Laredo quite a bit, the spring shackles don't have the greatest welds (you can see where the rear shackle was welded in the wrong place, cut off and new shackles installed, bought the camper brand new and know I didn't do it) and are actually welded to a piece of 2 x 2 tubing that is welded to the bottom of the frame. It would take some work but I don't see why that 2 x 2 tubing couldn't be replaced with 2 x 6 to get a 4" raise on your camper. Obviously, smaller tubing could be used if you don't need that much or if your camper is built differently. Be sure to reinforce it laterally and I think all would be good. My friends camper does look a little odd since the tires are now well below the wheel wells, but he is happy with it.

[[TASF]Overkill]

Laredo, can you give me an idea of ballpark what that would cost to do without a friend discount? Not sure how much I'd be getting into.

[Laredo291OH]

I would guess it would run $500 to $800. The tubing will be fairly expensive, probably $8-$10 per foot.