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Old 05-14-2022, 06:49 AM   #1
jazzman4
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Manual override for rack and pinion slide?

I have a 2022 Keystone Hideout which I'm pretty sure has the rack and pinion style of slideout. I have searched Youtube and this forum for how to manually crank slide in or out in case of electrical failure. There was one video that said this type of slide has has an opening below the slide outside on the frame. It's a hole cut into the frame which will have a bar sticking out to which you attach a handle and crank the slide in or out. If it's just a hole, you insert a crank or wrench with socket and connect with a turn mechanism inside the hole. I can find nothing like this on my trailer. Do any of you know on my particular model what the proper procedure is for completing a manual override?
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Old 05-14-2022, 06:56 AM   #2
chuckster57
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The override access will be on the opposite side of the slide. Look at the slide mechanism with the slide extended and one side will have a tube next to it. That is the powered side and will tell you the approximate location of the motor. Then just remove some of the fasteners on the coroplast on the opposite frame and you should be able to see the motor and determine what you need to override the motor.
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Old 05-14-2022, 07:29 AM   #3
jazzman4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
The override access will be on the opposite side of the slide. Look at the slide mechanism with the slide extended and one side will have a tube next to it. That is the powered side and will tell you the approximate location of the motor. Then just remove some of the fasteners on the coroplast on the opposite frame and you should be able to see the motor and determine what you need to override the motor.
Thanks - the trailer is parked in tight space with no ability to put the slide out until I pull the trailer out of its parking space. When I do that I will take a look under the slide for the tube. I do believe I saw an "access" cut out in the under belly opposite of the slide when I peered under my new unit. That may be what you are talking about. THanks so much for taking the time to answer my question.
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Old 05-14-2022, 09:10 AM   #4
JRTJH
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Originally Posted by jazzman4 View Post
Thanks - the trailer is parked in tight space with no ability to put the slide out until I pull the trailer out of its parking space. When I do that I will take a look under the slide for the tube. I do believe I saw an "access" cut out in the under belly opposite of the slide when I peered under my new unit. That may be what you are talking about. THanks so much for taking the time to answer my question.
On my Cougar, there was a 24x24 inch piece of coroplast layered over the larger coroplast belly covering. That "patch" was screwed to the belly, but there was no hole cut under it. When I needed to access the slide motor/gearbox, I removed that "patch" and cut a hole about 20x20 "three sided flap" in the belly so I had access. The "flap" provided one side as a hinge, so I could fold down the access, work on the motor/gearbox, and when finished close the access.

So, when finished, I folded the flap back into place, used two zip ties to secure the loose corners, then resealed the hole by reinstalling the "patch" with the 4 screws and then using SCRIM tape to go around all the edges.
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Old 05-14-2022, 12:35 PM   #5
wiredgeorge
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I don't have coroplast under my trailer. I have no hole in the side opposite the slide. To manually actuate the slide, I have to crawl under using a WRENCH or perhaps a drill with a wobble extension might work and crank it by hand. There is a large nut that must be turned. I hope I never have to do this.
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Old 05-14-2022, 03:15 PM   #6
flybouy
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On our previous trailer (29' Forest River Suryeyor ) it had what I call 1/2 slide. It was an ultralight trailer so the slide was long but it did not go down to the floor. It only extended out about 18". First dewinterizing I put the battery in but left the ground cable off so it wouldn't drain down.

First trip of the year went to a cg and unhitched. 7 way still plugged into trailer and tounge jack and slide worked. Went to leave and unplugged shore power and the slide wouldn't work. I got out the crank handle, connected to the motor (under the couch) and it was SLOW. I stopped and reassessed, it worked when we set up so what changed? That's when the "lightbulb" went off. I had no external power. Went and checked the battery and realized my error.

After that experience I did 2 things. First I installed a weatherproof battery disconnect thru the lid of the battery box and a digital voltmeter in the face of the lid. One look and I know if the battery is connected and it's voltage. Second act was cutting the crank part of the slide tool off and welded a nut on the end. Always took a cordless drill to operate the scissor Jack's so if I had to ever manually operate the slide the cordless drill can do the work.
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Old 10-05-2022, 02:51 PM   #7
Jim Burger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
On my Cougar, there was a 24x24 inch piece of coroplast layered over the larger coroplast belly covering. That "patch" was screwed to the belly, but there was no hole cut under it. When I needed to access the slide motor/gearbox, I removed that "patch" and cut a hole about 20x20 "three sided flap" in the belly so I had access. The "flap" provided one side as a hinge, so I could fold down the access, work on the motor/gearbox, and when finished close the access.

So, when finished, I folded the flap back into place, used two zip ties to secure the loose corners, then resealed the hole by reinstalling the "patch" with the 4 screws and then using SCRIM tape to go around all the edges.
John
any chance you took a photo of the manual override with the coroplast removed

thanks
jim
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Old 10-05-2022, 05:56 PM   #8
JRTJH
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John
any chance you took a photo of the manual override with the coroplast removed

thanks
jim
No I didn't, but there are several threads on the forum that do have photos and drawings to help identify the manual drive fitting.

Here's one such thread: https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=32525

Also, when you got your trailer, there should have been a "crank handle with a tube fitting on the end with 2 slots cut into the tube. That crank handle "might" fit through a hole in the skirting on your trailer so you can "hand crank the slide open or closed". The tool looks like this photo and the fitting on the slide motor that's under that coroplast cutout looks like the other photos.... And, then there are some slide motors that have a nut welded to the manual override shaft. On those, you just put a socket on an extension and use either a ratchet or a battery powered drill to turn the shaft.
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Old 10-06-2022, 07:37 AM   #9
gkainz
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I’m sure nobody would try this, but DO NOT ever put or leave the manual crank engaged and try to bump or run the motor. If the motor does engage, the gear reduction will spin that handle faster than one can imagine. I suspect with enough force to severely injure the operator.
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