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Old 08-14-2022, 11:48 AM   #1
markcee
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Window Leak

We had a couple of driving rainstorms come through where we are parked and I found some water dripping down the interior wall under the bedroom emergency exit window. Enough so it began to pool on the floor. Upon examination, I found the outside frame of the window - the outer trim that tucks against the exterior sidewall of the trailer - is pulled away about 1/8" along the top of the window. The other three sides of the frame are flush against the trailer. I've pushed on it and given it a firm smack with my hand and it appears tight and not moveable. I suppose it's possible the window has always been this way as we've not been in it during any heavy storms prior to these.

How would you recommend repair? Can this open seam simply be caulked with Dicor or similar product?
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Old 08-14-2022, 11:54 AM   #2
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To me there are a couple options. One would be to remove the window from the opening to inspect the installation. Is there something in the way keeping the frame from laying flat to the wall? That would require new butyl tape and a sealant cap bead to properly reinstall. Second option would be to just, as you said, cap it with some Dicor. Either way, it shouldn't be too hard to prevent future leaks since you know where it's coming from.
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Old 08-14-2022, 01:06 PM   #3
chuckster57
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Don’t use Dicor on the window. It will eventually drip down the side making a mess. ProSeal, or ProFlex would be a much better choice.
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Old 08-14-2022, 01:11 PM   #4
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Start by tightening the screws around the window frame from inside. Check for any broken screws preventing a good clamping of the window frame.
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Old 08-14-2022, 01:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Don’t use Dicor on the window. It will eventually drip down the side making a mess. ProSeal, or ProFlex would be a much better choice.
Chuckster, what about this stuff? Have you used it?

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-351Csw-...s%2C127&sr=8-8
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Old 08-14-2022, 01:37 PM   #6
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Thanks guys.

No luck tightening from the inside. All screws were intact. I found a couple that were loose, but not enough to make any difference when tightened. When I removed the shade to access all the screws, I did notice a portion of the upper frame is distorted/bent - like someone really tightened the hell out of it. I'm starting to think it was a poor fit from the get go and that was the factory's attempt to 'make it fit'.

Looks like I will go the ProFlex/ProSeal route.

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Old 08-14-2022, 01:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsb5717 View Post
Chuckster, what about this stuff? Have you used it?

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-351Csw-...s%2C127&sr=8-8
I have used Dicor products for years and there are many different users. When you specific dicor brand made for windows and doors in a second post. I have not seen that window and door sealer but not surprised. I believe you need to be specific when you recommend any product for a Specific job. Personally I would use clear silicone for a window leak just be careful . I have had good luck with White tub and shower silicone sealant.
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Old 08-14-2022, 01:57 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by markcee View Post
Thanks guys.

No luck tightening from the inside. All screws were intact. I found a couple that were loose, but not enough to make any difference when tightened. When I removed the shade to access all the screws, I did notice a portion of the upper frame is distorted/bent - like someone really tightened the hell out of it. I'm starting to think it was a poor fit from the get go and that was the factory's attempt to 'make it fit'.

Looks like I will go the ProFlex/ProSeal route.

" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350">

Mark your thought is entirely possible. If your eyes are telling you that I would suspect your right. This trailer had trouble with the back window (a large one) and the retractable windows wouldn't close. The edges of the frame looked as you describe. Took it to the dealer and the hole was not cut properly and they had just tried to force it in at the factory. They had to take it out and recut some of the hole. Hopefully the ProFlex will take care of yours.
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Old 08-14-2022, 01:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadglide View Post
I have used Dicor products for years and there are many different users. When you specific dicor brand made for windows and doors in a second post. I have not seen that window and door sealer but not surprised. I believe you need to be specific when you recommend any product for a Specific job. Personally I would use clear silicone for a window leak just be careful . I have had good luck with White tub and shower silicone sealant.
We use GE silicone II from Home Depot at the shop on all non roof seams.
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Old 08-18-2022, 08:11 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by jsb5717 View Post
Chuckster, what about this stuff? Have you used it?

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-351Csw-...s%2C127&sr=8-8
JSB did you use the Dicor non sag, non self leveling for your sidewalls? I have seams that need attention, looks like the factory 2017 hideout had silicone material. Do you know if Dicor can go over the old or do I need to remove existing even though some of it looks ok?
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Old 08-19-2022, 06:25 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizzy View Post
JSB did you use the Dicor non sag, non self leveling for your sidewalls? I have seams that need attention, looks like the factory 2017 hideout had silicone material. Do you know if Dicor can go over the old or do I need to remove existing even though some of it looks ok?
No, sorry, I haven’t used it. I found the one I posted based on this thread and was curious to see if Chuckster has seen/used it.
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Old 08-19-2022, 06:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizzy View Post
JSB did you use the Dicor non sag, non self leveling for your sidewalls? I have seams that need attention, looks like the factory 2017 hideout had silicone material. Do you know if Dicor can go over the old or do I need to remove existing even though some of it looks ok?
Factory is fond of ProSeal and ProFlex.
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