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Old 04-20-2022, 02:00 PM   #21
wiredgeorge
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Glad you got it sorted out. The worst thing is that folks will ask about wiring in their specific RV and fail to understand that the person who did the wiring of their unit probably doesn't wire any two units the same and it probably was a different person doing the wiring on their unit than the other owner. People who have visited the factory can relate that there is a reason there is no wiring diagram for any Keystone camper.
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Old 04-20-2022, 02:38 PM   #22
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Glad it worked out for you.
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Old 04-20-2022, 02:50 PM   #23
Devin_Noel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam75462001 View Post
***UPDATE #3 ISSUE RESOLVED!***

Issue resolved!! Thanks to the suggestions to buy the GFCI tester, I got the code “open neutral at the fridge outlet. Checked each one and said the same. I did find that one of the outlets, the island outlet, had 3 sets of wires. That was one of the issues, the wires in that crummy blade RV outlet set up had come loose and was difficult to see because it was tucked between two others and was no longer making contact.
However, the first issue I resolved was the outside outlet had the bottom white wires burnt. I added a picture after I removed the outlet to show how hard it was to see. After replacing that outlet, I tested the outlets again and had the same “open neutral” and found the island set up was garbage.
Once I replaced that one with a remodel box and standard outlet, it worked! The normal remodel box fit fine, I just had to make the hole a little bigger. The one thing that stumped me was setting up the new outlet, the first test gave me a “reverse ground” reading so I rewired the island outlet and it worked.
Having the 3 sets of wires made it challenging because I had no clue as to which wires were from the GFCI and where the other 2 were coming from and going. Still no idea. Probably going to do more research so I can put an outlet with a USB port.
This has been quite the eye opening experience. Lots of great advice, and I saw first hand how crappy the wiring is in RV’s. My weekend project is going to be cleaning up the janky plastic boxes with reliable boxes and outlets.
Again thank you all so much who contributed and provided relevant advice and guidance! Made my day!
Green or bare copper is always ground. It will connect to a green screw or something directly screwed to a bare chunk of metal on the switch or outlet.

Black or occasionally red is hot. it goes to the brass screw.

White is neutral. It goes to the silver screw.
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Old 04-20-2022, 04:49 PM   #24
jasin1
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
When I needed new exhaust manifolds for my Mercury I/O (rusted out from running it in the Gulf and the Intercoastal Waterway while shrimping and speckled trout/redfish "catching") They were over $200 each at the local Mercury dealer. I found a marine supply house in Houston that had an aftermarket set (both sides) for $175. But they only sold to "marine dealers" It's amazing how fast my garage had a "Marine Repair, sales and service" sign stuck out front LOL Even with shipping, it was less than half the price of any dealer in Louisiana. I did "special order business" with that warehouse for about 15 years. All my buddies, neighbors, work associates and their friends would "come to my Marine Repair, sales and service" to check pricing before ordering from a local dealer. Every year at Christmas, I got a bottle of wine and a gift certificate from them for being such a good "cash customer"

Osco manifolds? That was good thinking on your part lol
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Old 04-20-2022, 05:51 PM   #25
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Osco manifolds? That was good thinking on your part lol
I'd be guessing if I say yes or no... I don't have any idea what brand they were. I had the boat about 10 years after rebuilding the exhaust system and it was still working the way it should. That boat got put through a bunch of abuse, from pulling a parasail to dragging two 25' shrimp nets to running the "mud flats" around Carencro looking for redfish. I don't think that boat was in fresh water more than 2 or 3 times and I only put it on the trailer to carry it from Cameron to Carencro or back. Otherwise it was sitting in the water, rusting away or too hot to touch Whatever brand they were, they were definitely durable... LOL
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Old 04-21-2022, 04:58 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Sam75462001 View Post
Hello everyone,
(2018 Keystone Raptor 426TS 50amp shore power currently)
Been full-timing it on base during retirement transition and learning a lot. Reaching out for some knowledge. Recently had an interesting issue... My fridge, (NORCOLD model 2118), sent a "No AC" code and typically would trip the GFCI. Usually from running the instapot on the island and the air purifier or something in the bathroom GFCI. This time we had the instapot and air purifier plugged in at the same time at the island. Got the alarm so I unplugged both and switched to LP to keep the fridge cold. Did the following with no joy:

-Read through these forums; found and tried a few good ones with similar issues.... WAS leaning toward a loose wire thread, no more after the update.
-Checked the GFCI- it was not tripped and still had power, hit the test/reset button anyways. (pictured below)
-Went to the circuit breaker and checked, the breaker was not tripped, cycled it anyways to check and still no joy. (pictured below)
-Took off the back panel on the fridge and checked the F3 amp fuse and it was still good.
-Checked each outlet in the RV and looked over it all to try to find a hidden GFCI in the line that would be the issue, nothing found.
-Each outlet was dry and did not have any moisture from rain, spills, condensation, etc...
-Went as far as disconnecting all power and cycling everything, even checked the surge protector at shore power and all was good.

What I have found; (pictured below) the outlet in the basement, outside, island, table, and fridge are not working. What is odd is the GFCI outlet in the bathroom has power and so does the one next to it that is GFI. The rest in line that typically are out when the GFCI trips are out.

Wanted to reach out to get feedback or suggestions before I start taking each outlet apart and check/update wiring. Probably going to run to home depot and get a replacement GFCI prior to getting to work.

***UPDATE #1***
Took apart each outlet, wiring looked fine, nothing burnt, loose or unattached. Keep coming back to the main GFCI in master bath. It has power and when I press the test button, only a red light shows (pictured below). Leads me to believe that the GFCI outlet is bad.

Intend to head to home depot and get a 15amp replacement. Gonna look into the threads to see how to replace it with the way this GFCI is wired...(pictured below)

***UPDATE #2***
Replaced the GFCI, still no joy on the outlets.

Anyone have insight as to what else could possibly be the issue??

***UPDATE #3 ISSUE RESOLVED!***

Issue resolved!! Thanks to the suggestions to buy the GFCI tester, I got the code “open neutral at the fridge outlet. Checked each one and said the same. I did find that one of the outlets, the island outlet, had 3 sets of wires. That was one of the issues, the wires in that crummy blade RV outlet set up had come loose and was difficult to see because it was tucked between two others and was no longer making contact.
However, the first issue I resolved was the outside outlet had the bottom white wires burnt. I added a picture after I removed the outlet to show how hard it was to see. After replacing that outlet, I tested the outlets again and had the same “open neutral” and found the island set up was garbage.
Once I replaced that one with a remodel box and standard outlet, it worked! The normal remodel box fit fine, I just had to make the hole a little bigger. The one thing that stumped me was setting up the new outlet, the first test gave me a “reverse ground” reading so I rewired the island outlet and it worked.
Having the 3 sets of wires made it challenging because I had no clue as to which wires were from the GFCI and where the other 2 were coming from and going. Still no idea. Probably going to do more research so I can put an outlet with a USB port.
This has been quite the eye opening experience. Lots of great advice, and I saw first hand how crappy the wiring is in RV’s. My weekend project is going to be cleaning up the janky plastic boxes with reliable boxes and outlets.
Again thank you all so much who contributed and provided relevant advice and guidance! Made my day!

Items purchased:
Klein GFCI receptacle tester - mentioned in this thread

Items used:
GFCI receptacle tester
Wire strippers
Needle nose pliers
Electrical tape
Non contact voltage tester
New GFCI 15amp outlet (had a 15amp circuit breaker)
New remodel box and standard outlet to replace the RV outlet

Helpful YouTube videos:
https://youtu.be/-ujhqb6Eli0
https://youtu.be/YLA5u8BJrwg
https://youtu.be/EGgQGiUvcCU
Good work on tracking down the problem!!!!
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