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Old 10-10-2014, 06:10 PM   #21
Titan Guy
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I have 3500 with 7 way in bed and bumper. Without 7 way plugged in I only get 1.5V. Plugging in 7 way and checking voltage on the other outlet, I get 11.7V.
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Old 10-11-2014, 05:51 AM   #22
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I am going to an RV repair guy today to look into i tn I tested yesterday with the trailer plugged in amd at best I get 9.2v on the trailer. Also. That is with settings on Light Electric. When on Heavy Electric dropped to around 7v....More to come...
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Old 10-11-2014, 05:52 AM   #23
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Good to know you are at 11.7. I have been thinking that should be the case. Now I know what we need to be at. Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:01 PM   #24
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Ok. Here is the latest. I've had the trailer at and RV repair shop for the last week. He spent a couple of days diagnosing with no luck. All grounds have been checked and some redone just because. We can put 12v into plug atv trailer and in the distribution box we are only getting 9v max. All brake pucks have been tested we pull the emergency brake pin and trailer locks up so we know they all work. Really. Not sure what to look at next. Also put a new plug on front. Any more suggestions?
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:06 PM   #25
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We had a customer that had a new ('14 I think) Ram. Bought a new Grand Designs fiver and had the same issue that you describe. He went to the Dodge dealer twice and they said it had to be the trailer. He brought it in, we hooked it to the shop truck with a Prodigy and got the brakes to lock up. Long story short, he made two more trips to the dealer, Forced them to change his IBC and all is good.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:08 PM   #26
jeffgalati
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Good to know but the repair guy tried on his truck as well and also simply putting 12v directly intobthe plug. I will keep thatvin mind though.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:09 PM   #27
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Ok. Here is the latest. I've had the trailer at and RV repair shop for the last week. He spent a couple of days diagnosing with no luck. All grounds have been checked and some redone just because. We can put 12v into plug atv trailer and in the distribution box we are only getting 9v max. All brake pucks have been tested we pull the emergency brake pin and trailer locks up so we know they all work. Really. Not sure what to look at next. Also put a new plug on front. Any more suggestions?
If you're getting 12V into the box and only 9V out, its time for a new box. You got a leak somewhere, if I was doing the testing I'd check voltage at every junction until I found the leak.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:17 PM   #28
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I may be using the wrong term. The junction box I am talking is at the front where the pigtails wires simply connect to the trailer wires on individual studs. So it a simple straight shot from the truck to this point and there is 12v at the truck.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:24 PM   #29
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I may be using the wrong term. The junction box I am talking is at the front where the pigtails wires simply connect to the trailer wires on individual studs. So it a simple straight shot from the truck to this point and there is 12v at the truck.
But is it 12v leaving that box.. in other words... do the wire going to any of the 4 brakes have 12volts after that box... if not, do the wire coming from the truck to that stud got 12 volts.. Not at the truck... at the other end of the wire where it connects to the stud.
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:33 PM   #30
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I believe I am on the heavy setting. ... Never had an question until this truck. Last was a 2013 1500 with the 5.7 hemi.
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I didn't have the problem until I got this truck.
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They couldn't find anything. .
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I tested yesterday with the trailer plugged in amd at best I get 9.2v on the trailer. Also. That is with settings on Light Electric. When on Heavy Electric dropped to around 7v....More to come...
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Ok. . We can put 12v into plug atv trailer and in the distribution box we are only getting 9v max. All brake pucks have been tested we pull the emergency brake pin and trailer locks up so we know they all work. Really. Not sure what to look at next. Also put a new plug on front. Any more suggestions?
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Good to know but the repair guy tried on his truck as well and also simply putting 12v directly intobthe plug. I will keep thatvin mind though.
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I may be using the wrong term. The junction box I am talking is at the front where the pigtails wires simply connect to the trailer wires on individual studs. So it a simple straight shot from the truck to this point and there is 12v at the truck.


OK, using some "deducing" kind of thinking, your trailer worked OK with the last truck, the trailer brakes lock up when the disconnect switch is activated, you get 9.2 volts on the light setting and that drops to 7.? volts on the heavy setting, you get 12 volts INTO the distribution box and 9 volts out if the distribution box.

Conclusions:
1. Your trailer is functioning like it did before when the truck operated properly, so your trailer can be removed as a possible problem.
2. You "think" you were on the heavy position on the brake controller when you were having the problem. (Need to verify this)
3. On "light position" you get 9.2V, on "heavy position" voltage drops. Check the Chrysler troubleshooting guide, but I believe the voltage should INCREASE when in the "heavy position".
4. Voltage "IN" vs voltage "OUT" of the Junction box is different. Either a bad connection, corrosion or it's more than just a connection box.
5. The tech connected your trailer to his truck and it functioned normally (confirming no fault with trailer)

6. There has to be either a faulty setting/connection on the OBC, the brake controller or the junction box. I'd hook it up, make sure you are in the "heavy setting, doublecheck that it is "still faulty" by trying to stop the trailer with the brake controller manual slide switch, If it does not function normally, then take the truck to Chrysler and insist they replace the brake controller, the junction box and the rear plug on the truck. One (or more) of them has to be your problem if the trailer previously functioned normally and is still functioning normally with another tow vehicle.

ADDED: Chrysler is not "infallible". It is possible they installed the incorrect part number brake controller and/or did not set the OBC properly at the factory or the setting may have been altered further down the assembly line. The dealership either needs to start from scratch to reboot the computer/brake controller so they "talk to each other' properly, or replace the components and then start from scratch. I believe the problem is in the truck, it's really up to Chrysler to figure this one out, but my guess would be that the brake controller is faulty or it's that questionable "distribution box"

Good Luck
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Old 10-18-2014, 12:48 PM   #31
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Ok. At the back of the truck I am getting 12.8v. Thats without the trailer plugged in. At the junction box if I take the blue wore off from the truck it is 12.8v. Once I connect back together it is 9.3v. And yes when I switch back to Heavy Electric brake setting drops to 7.?v. The repair ship did connect to his truck and had the same issues. So i think does point to trailer. Not full power to brakes. His was an aftermarket brake controller. No corrosion in the box.
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:06 PM   #32
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Ok. At the back of the truck I am getting 12.8v. Thats without the trailer plugged in. At the junction box if I take the blue wore off from the truck it is 12.8v. Once I connect back together it is 9.3v. And yes when I switch back to Heavy Electric brake setting drops to 7.?v. The repair ship did connect to his truck and had the same issues. So i think does point to trailer. Not full power to brakes. His was an aftermarket brake controller. No corrosion in the box.


I read that with the breakaway switch, the brakes locked up on the trailer and with his tow vehicle they operated properly, my "misread"... So the trailer wiring is still a possibility. If the breakaway switch locks them up, then I'd apply battery power to the brake connector in the 7 way umbilical. If that also locks the brakes, you can effectively rule out the trailer. Once you rule out the trailer, then that only leaves the truck. I'd still think that if the voltage goes DOWN when on "HIGH" setting, something is wrong with the controller or the computer that drives it (OBC). As for that junction box, I'm not sure what the blue wire does to "influence" the voltage drop. Have you done the "wiring diagram tracing" to see what it is and where it goes?
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:08 PM   #33
jeffgalati
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The blue wire is simply the one that is powering the brakes. I am about to attach the 12v to the umbilical and see what that does. Stay tuned. .......
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:22 PM   #34
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Ok. I have to thamk all of you for your input. I just connected basically a jump box with 12v direct to the pigtail and have the same voltage at the box. I guess I will now be going back to the dealer. Confuses me about some of what the tech was finding but we will figure that out next I guess. I will post updates when I have some. Not sure if I will get it in to the dealer this week or not. Thanks again.
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:26 PM   #35
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Good Luck, keep us posted on what they find. This has the potential to become an "issue" for more than just you. Seems several members have had problems with the newer RAM brake controllers. Knowing what fixes work may save others the same frustration you've got.
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