Winterizing- Antifreeze necessary?

[joe315]

Is the use of antifreeze(pink stuff) absolutely required?
I've seen several recommendations to just drain and blow out the water...

Do I need to winterize when not in use for just a couple weeks?

[rhagfo]

I only used the pink antifreeze in the P traps, I blew out the water lines. We would go out all year long so a lot depended on temperature. I would not blow the lines until it was going to be below freezing. Some years once or twice others a half dozen or more times. The process took about 20 to 30 minutes.

[Salty25]

That question is right up there with, "Can I tow this?" You ask that to 10 people and you'll get 12 answers.

There is a bit of missing information to give you a good answer. How cold does it get where you store the RV? Is a couple weeks, two weeks or two months?
Will it be stored outside or inside? But, if even with that info different people will do it differently.

Personally, I don't use antifreeze in my RVs. I've had a few over the years. I blow out my water lines, including the water heater and storage tanks. I also check my lines with air pressure before filling up in the spring for my first trip.

If you blow out your water lines you have to be sure all that water is out. I little in the wrong place can cause you a lot when you go to fill and get water damage.

[notanlines]

'The pink stuff' is cheap insurance. I could argue either way, but if you use the anti-freeze you will be as close to 100% certain as you can get. When you winterize do it by yourself. You don't need any help from your neighbor, your son, your wife/husband, your do-gooder friends who always know a better way.
All the info above is technically correct, especially Salty with the 10/12 rule.
If this is your first time I recommend draining all tanks, water heater. Then blow out all lines with air and then use the 'pink stuff.' Remember about reading up on water heater by pass valves, p-traps, etc. It will be items I didn't list under the etcetera heading that will get you in trouble.
Dish washers, ice makers, fridge water lines, black/grey water rinse, toilet flush are some of the etceteras.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by joe315

Is the use of antifreeze(pink stuff) absolutely required?
I've seen several recommendations to just drain and blow out the water...

Do I need to winterize when not in use for just a couple weeks?

According to your subscriber info you are just south of Los Angeles, CA. If that's where you are storing your camper I think the last hard freeze there was during the ice ages. Are you storing the camper somewhere where it gets cold as in below freezing for several days?

[chuckster57]

Some years ago, I had my trailer in the backyard. Temps were 17 at night and 45 during the day. On the 5th day I got nervous and just opened the low point drains and faucets. No damage.

[JDDilly]

I have only used air to blow out the water lines for years with no issues. I only use the pink stuff in the drains for the P traps.

[Falcon67]

Same in the race trailer. The only hiccup has been when I left a little in the potty flush valve year before last and it cracked the valve. Dump the tanks, dump about a half gallon in the grey and black, about two in the fresh because it has a long pex run to a drain valve. I open the valve and add antifreeze until it drips out the drain cock. Then in the traps and some in the pot over the flapper.

I expect the new trailer will be similar, depending on how the water heater is plumbed.

The "bonus" of the 6 gallon 120V water heater in the race trailer is that it has a winter setting. Pull the lines, blow out water back from the heater, cap the heater outlets and set it to winter.

[plocklin]

I drain the lines, fresh water tank and water heater. Then I blow out the lines with compressed air.

[boatguy]

What are most of you guys doing for the "black tank flush" water line , that seems to be an almost standard item in most travel trailers nowadays ?
I guess it should be at least blown out with some air pressure ?

[Falcon67]

The new Springdale has a flush line and yes, I'd blow that out too. The race trailer does not have a flush line. Anything that

[dutchmensport]

"Do I need to winterize when not in use for just a couple weeks?"

Set a bowel of water under the trailer. Will it freeze up? If it does, you need to winterize, even for a couple weeks. If it does not, you don't need to.

How you winterize is your choice: Air or pink-stuff. The reason some folks don't like to use the pink-stuff is because it leave a residual taste that takes some time to flush out of the water lines. Pink-stuff is not toxic. It's food grade, although I don't think it would make a very taste margarita, even if the rim of the glass is salted!.

[TimC]

I live in Wisconsin. My trailer is stored in my driveway and has seen temps as low as -45. My winterizing routine is drain and bypass water heater, and blow out the lines. Make sure to open all faucets when the air compressor is hooked up, including outdoor shower. I also open my low point drains and blow some air through there. After blowing the lines I add some rv antifreeze to every drain and the toilet.

As far as black tank flush, I’ve never messed with it. Maybe it’s not a bad idea to blow it out (I never really thought about it for some reason). But, the lines in my camper are PEX (as I’m sure most are). PEX is far more forgiving when freezing than the copper you find in your home (I know from experience). Also, if there is no pressure and any open end, the water will have room to expand. So, I don’t necessarily agree with the comments that any little water left will cause problems. Perhaps I’m just lucky, but considering the extreme temperatures my camper is subjected to here in Wisconsin (I’ve seen the “pink stuff” freeze solid in my toilet before), I’m thinking it’s not just luck.

[Falcon67]

2019 was a normal winter here with some days in the 20s. Spring 2020 I replaced the potty valve because it was cracked. I assume frost damage as it was fine when the season was over and a leader when we put back in service. 2021 we had the Texas froze solid week and had no damage at all. Our well froze solid, which has never happened. I made sure to have the potty valve open when I blew the lines. You are right about Pex, way better than copper or PVC.

[Brantlaker]

I personally drain my fresh bypass my water heater, poore gal of antifreeze in turn on my pump and start from the kitchen and work back opening the valves until they run pink this way the pump has antifreeze ( had to replace a 12v pump)and don't forget to drain the water heater(good time to inspect the anode rod. I used to do this on the road North in the Spring on my way home every year only takes about 1hr.

[dutchmensport]

TimC...

The "pink stuff" does freeze. But, it doesn't expand. Freezing water doesn't cause the problems with water lines. It the expansion of the ice against the lines that cause lines to burst.

[richardshore1]

I use the blow out method and put RV pink in traps.

A follow up question is whether the RV pump should be winterized by simply running it dry or drawing RV pink through the pump?

[cenders]

I use air. I blow out the black flush as well, though the design has the line running up to a peak (up under the sink cabinet) so by design no water stays in it.

My water pump is accessible so I actually remove it to ensure all the water is out.

The biggest problem with freezing isn’t the lines (as mentioned) as they can expand and withstand it. It’s the hard plastic connectors, elbows, valves, etc.

[Tireman9]

The correct answer is "It Depends".

If you spend a couple of minutes and think about the objective you should be able to figure out the best plan for you.

As I understand it, the freezing isn't really a problem for PEX or other flexible lines as the expansion due to freezing isn't enough to burst those lines. However if you have "T" or angle fittings or valves then a solid freeze can crack those fittings.

"Blowing" out the lines. This can work as long as you are sure you have no low points (where there are any fittings or valves) that can collect the small amount of water you didn't blow out. If you just hit the lines with air from a small tire inflator you might not be moving enough air through the lines to get almost all the water out. I live in NE Ohio and the RV is outside. In past years we have had below freezing for a couple weeks at a time so a "hard freeze" is possible. I have a large shop compressor that puts out lots of air so I blow out each line, one at a time, for at least 15 seconds.

Insurance. You could call me a belt and suspenders kind of guy so even with the lines "blown out" I still push a little "Pink Stuff" into the system as there are a couple of sections of water line such as the suction and pressure side of the water pump and of course the water pump itself.
that the "blow out" might not empty.

I of course have the hot water tank drained and set to 'By-Pass" before I use the "pink stuff".

My Class-C is relatively small at 24' but with the above process I only use about 1-1/2 gal by using the suction side of my water pump and open each faucet one at a time till I see any pink. This automatically winterizes the various traps, drain lines and holding tanks.

[tom0329]

I pull the anode out of the water heater use the water heater bypass. Leave the plug out of the fresh water tank I never use it anyway. I drain and flush the gray and blacks leave the valves open and the cap off. I blow out the lines. I use antifreeze because I have an ice maker I run the fridge until I get pink ice that doesn't take long.
We winterize a couple of times a year depending what our plans are.
That's how I do it I'm sure there's a thousand ways to do it.