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Old 06-27-2021, 03:18 PM   #1
machz
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1/2 outlets not working on new 22mls

So I picked up a new 22MLS a week ago and everything was going well until today when half my outlets stopped working. I first checked the two GFCI that I know about one in the bathroom and one in the kitchen. The one in the bathroom worked fine but I could not test the one in the kitchen. I guess they won’t trip if there is no power going to them. I checked the breakers and reset them all. Next I pulled the GFCI in the kitchen and swapped it with the one in the bathroom. After the swap the one in the kitchen still didn’t work and the bathroom did.

So the outlets near the TV , the one to the recliner , the two near the bed and the one in the kitchen are not working.

Any ideas are appreciated.

Thank you
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Old 06-27-2021, 03:35 PM   #2
flybouy
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A GFCI will not RESET unless it has electricity applied to it, therefore the circuit to it is not live. How proficiant/comfortable are you working on electrical distribution equipment? Do you have a multimeter and understand how it works? You need to follow the line side of the wiring back to the breaker and find out why it's interrupted. Sometimes a cabinet install can pinch/break the wire or a staple may ave been shot thru the romex.
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Old 06-27-2021, 03:52 PM   #3
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Are the non working outlets in a slide?
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Old 06-27-2021, 04:04 PM   #4
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You could try the exterior outlets.
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Old 06-27-2021, 04:07 PM   #5
machz
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I do have a meter and I’m ok with tracing the wires back I just wish I had a layout so I knew where the line started and finished. I’m guessing the GFCI in the kitchen is the last on the line that is dead as it only has line wires and not load. The wires coming into that GFCI are not live so it’s before that.

Only one of the dead outlets are in the slide, the one for the recliner. There is also one live outlet in the slide.
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Old 06-27-2021, 04:08 PM   #6
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The exterior outlets are working I think they are tied to the GFCI in the bathroom.
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Old 06-27-2021, 05:12 PM   #7
flybouy
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Get a wire long enough to reach from the outlet to the electrical panel and install aligator clips on each end.
1 DISCONNECT THE SHORE POWER AND THE BATTERY GROUND. Place your meter on ohms.
2 Clip one end of your jumper cable to the ground wire in the outlet box and the other on one of the meter test leads.
3 place the other meter lead on the ground bus bar. It should read zero or near zero. If it reads infinity the circuit is open.

Repeate the process for the nuetral. For the "hot wire" (black wire) you will have check the screw terminal on each breaker to find the correct circuit. While you are in there, check each screw to make sure they are tight.
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Old 06-27-2021, 06:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by machz View Post
I do have a meter and I’m ok with tracing the wires back I just wish I had a layout so I knew where the line started and finished. I’m guessing the GFCI in the kitchen is the last on the line that is dead as it only has line wires and not load. The wires coming into that GFCI are not live so it’s before that.

Only one of the dead outlets are in the slide, the one for the recliner. There is also one live outlet in the slide.
Keystone has a habit (possibly a standard) of putting all GFCI circuits on separate breakers from other circuits in the main fusebox. If you have a GFCI outlet in the kitchen with no load lines, then it's likely a singleton with its own breaker. That ought to make it a bit easier to troubleshoot.
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Old 06-28-2021, 05:52 AM   #9
machz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHaven View Post
Keystone has a habit (possibly a standard) of putting all GFCI circuits on separate breakers from other circuits in the main fusebox. If you have a GFCI outlet in the kitchen with no load lines, then it's likely a singleton with its own breaker. That ought to make it a bit easier to troubleshoot.

Yes there is a GFCI breaker in the box. I'm going to start tonight and tone trace the wires to figure out where they all run.


Thank you
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Old 06-28-2021, 12:17 PM   #10
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Yes there is a GFCI breaker in the box. I'm going to start tonight and tone trace the wires to figure out where they all run.
If there is only one breaker in the fuse box marked GFCI, then I must revise my estimate. That would make the kitchen breaker the last outlet in the run of all the other GFCI outlets.
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Old 06-28-2021, 05:40 PM   #11
machz
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So I was able to spend a little time troubleshooting tonight. I have 6 dead outlets, 1 in the kitchen GFCI , two near the tv , two near the bed and the one behind the recliner. The one in the kitchen and the one behind the recliner only have one wire running to them. I checked continuity and they all can see the hot, neutral and ground between all 6 . They can all see the panel with the neutral and ground but not the hot.

In my panel I have a breaker for GFCI and one that says rec/con. I see see the converter tied in and I’m guessing the other is receptacle. I’m confused as to why two of the dead outlets only have one wire. I’m also confused as to what outlet runs from the panel. I would have thought the GFCI in the kitchen would as it’s right above the panel but it only has one wire.
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Old 06-30-2021, 03:43 AM   #12
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I was able to fix it so I figured I would post my findings for others. I did more digging and found 3 punch-down Romex connectors in the belly near the slides. I pulled the two access panels and found them in there. I thought for sure I found the problem but I found that one of the plugs didn't have any power in or out so I knew it was before there.

The one thing that was nagging at me was the fact that I only had 2 receptacle circuits in the panel and one was for the bathroom and the other plugs were working fine. The other was for the dead receptacles but when I pulled all of them I found 2 that only had one Romex wire going to them. I couldn't figure out how this was possible then I realized that there must be a junction box that had power in and two wires out. I then decided to pull the fuse panel and in the back under a pile of wires I found one of the plastic punch-down block junctions. I tested and sure enough power in from the panel but no power out to either of the wires going out.

So I am now back in business and I'm happy I was able to do this before my first trip and not at a campground. I also have a much better understanding of the electrical system in my RV now.

Thank you to everyone for the suggestions.
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