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03-23-2020, 02:00 PM
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#21
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyFamilyRV
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There are "well over 100 diagrams" on that link, so no earthly idea which one you're talking about being "like mine".....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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03-23-2020, 03:20 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyFamilyRV
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The pic that pops up is 2 -6 volts wired parallel which equals 6 volts. If that's how yours are wired it's connected wrong.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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03-23-2020, 03:55 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Rock Island
Posts: 457
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The OPs batteries worked before he had these problems, unless he rewired them, they should be wired correctly.
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03-23-2020, 04:39 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: nm
Posts: 1,833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
There are "well over 100 diagrams" on that link, so no earthly idea which one you're talking about being "like mine".....
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I’m using 3 AGM batteries there all connected parallel. When charging 3 batteries to get equal voltage to each battery should I connect positive to positive and a negative to negative on the opposite side crossing all batteries? The way I’m charging the batteries now charging and the third battery 3 feet from the other two it’s still parallel. This is for Solar charging when I added the third battery I didn’t remove the charge cable back to the third battery . I can’t find anything online that explains three batteries for charging Parallel.
__________________
2018 1 ton 4x4 c.c standard bed GMC Denali
Anderson ultimate hitch
2015 311 Impact Fusion toy hauler
2018 Milwaukee 8 FLRTU roadglide glide ultra
2018 800 Z force spot BUGGY.
500 watts of solar enough power for boon docking.
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03-23-2020, 04:45 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: nm
Posts: 1,833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadglide
I’m using 3 AGM batteries there all connected parallel. When charging 3 batteries to get equal voltage to each battery should I connect positive to positive and a negative to negative on the opposite side crossing all batteries? The way I’m charging the batteries now charging and the third battery 3 feet from the other two it’s still parallel. This is for Solar charging when I added the third battery I didn’t remove the charge cable back to the third battery . I can’t find anything online that explains three batteries for charging Parallel.
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Thank you three battery Diagram is in the link . They’re wired just like I would wire two batteries.
__________________
2018 1 ton 4x4 c.c standard bed GMC Denali
Anderson ultimate hitch
2015 311 Impact Fusion toy hauler
2018 Milwaukee 8 FLRTU roadglide glide ultra
2018 800 Z force spot BUGGY.
500 watts of solar enough power for boon docking.
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03-23-2020, 04:53 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Rock Island
Posts: 457
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Sounds like you are hooking the charger up correctly.
Some will say all battery cables need to be equal length between batteries.
Some will also say that all 3 batteries need to be the same manufacturer, model and same age.
If you are having any issues, you could unhook them and charge each separately. Then you could monitor the resting voltage and see if one is weak and drawing the other two down.
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03-23-2020, 08:17 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Lakewood
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
There are "well over 100 diagrams" on that link, so no earthly idea which one you're talking about being "like mine".....
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Sorry about that, thought it was a single image link. Here's the picture of how they are wired.
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03-23-2020, 08:19 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Lakewood
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GHen
The OPs batteries worked before he had these problems, unless he rewired them, they should be wired correctly.
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Correct, the issue is that they charge fine on shore power, the only time I have issues is when boondocking using the generator. It makes sense that the converter shouldn't know the difference, but it behaves strangely and is inconsistent.
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03-24-2020, 05:23 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: South Jordan, Utah
Posts: 2,221
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Gypsy,
Have you tested the output from the generator? I'd use a DVM right at the genny plug. It does take several hours of charge time to completely top off a battery system like yours, so a continuous power test over and hour or two might tell you something.
Also, you'll need 14.5 to 15 volts DC to bulk charge your system. You can check this at the battery terminals while the genny is running.
If you're testing at home you could A/B test the converter output between shore and genny power. Again, test this at the battery with a DVM.
Good Luck and keep us posted
__________________
2017 Cougar 279RKSWE
2007.5 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
Retirement Training Completed
I think the little voices in my head have started a chat group.
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03-24-2020, 05:35 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Lisbon
Posts: 551
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Find out what kind of converter you have. It might be that the converter is just not capable of charging the batteries up that quickly. It is most likely just not getting a good charge when running off of the generator because you might need to be running it for a lot more than a few hours to get a good charge. You really need to get a meter so you have better information to work with.
__________________
2018 Keystone Cougar 22RBS
2020 Ford F-350 XLT SC SRW 6.7l Powerstroke.
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03-24-2020, 06:43 AM
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#31
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
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There is a substantial difference in "charge time" between "plugging into the garage outlet and the batteries are fully charged in the morning" (12-14 hours charge time) and "plugging into the generator, running it for 90 minutes in the morning and the batteries are barely charged the next morning"...
To determine if the "120 VAC/1600 watts" provided by the generator is "equal to the 120 VAC/1600 watts" provided by the garage circuit" you've got to compare "apples to apples". Voltage, watts/amps, time, size of wire carrying the power all can play an important role in making one source "charge better" than another source. Heck, even something as "insignificant" as a burnt/corroded pin on a plug adapter can "throw a wrench into the works"....
It's going to take a "side by side/apples to apples" comparison of the two power sources to determine if they are actually providing the converter/charger with the same power. If they are, then it's "time, not the converter" that's the issue.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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03-24-2020, 09:03 AM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Lakewood
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
There is a substantial difference in "charge time" between "plugging into the garage outlet and the batteries are fully charged in the morning" (12-14 hours charge time) and "plugging into the generator, running it for 90 minutes in the morning and the batteries are barely charged the next morning"...
To determine if the "120 VAC/1600 watts" provided by the generator is "equal to the 120 VAC/1600 watts" provided by the garage circuit" you've got to compare "apples to apples". Voltage, watts/amps, time, size of wire carrying the power all can play an important role in making one source "charge better" than another source. Heck, even something as "insignificant" as a burnt/corroded pin on a plug adapter can "throw a wrench into the works"....
It's going to take a "side by side/apples to apples" comparison of the two power sources to determine if they are actually providing the converter/charger with the same power. If they are, then it's "time, not the converter" that's the issue.
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Thanks, and this makes total sense, I just don't quite have all the pieces yet. Although, the batteries are brand new, and the gen is brand new as well (maybe has 40-45 hours on it currently). I have left the generator running for around 5 hours before, after about 4 hours, the batteries just stopped charging (at least according to the cheapo monitor I have). I'm looking at battery monitors, any recommendations for a decent one that's not too expensive?
Thanks everyone for the replies!
Sean
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03-24-2020, 09:53 AM
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#33
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
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IMHO, without spending lots of money, a simple voltmeter is the "best charge indicator" you can own. Measure the voltage at the battery terminals. Turn on the generator and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. If it goes up (and it will if the charger is operating properly) you can divide the "no charge voltage by the charge voltage" to determine the "percentage of charge" being applied to the battery bank.
Simple to use, simple to calculate, but it's more complicated than "push a button and walk away"... Again, IMHO, we've "dumbed down logical thinking" to the point that many people simply can't comprehend WHAT and WHY they are doing a test. They "just want the results" and have NO EARTHLY IDEA what the results mean beyond what the "red/green indicator" reflects.....
So, if you have a HF $6 voltmeter, use it and "think beyond what the reading indicates to "what the reading means with that indication".... In other words, if you think about what you're doing, it'll all make sense.....
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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03-24-2020, 11:36 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Rock Island
Posts: 457
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If can’t spend a lot, Go to harbor freight and pick a volt meter, they are about $6. Even one that plugs into one of your 12 plugs inside the rv will work.
While running the generator, check the battery voltage.
12.7 or less means they are not charging.
Around 13.1 or above means they are charging.
Some converters will charge at various voltages until they are charged. Mine starts at 14.1, then drops to 13.6, then 13.1 as the batteries get charged.
Then turn off the generator and let it rest for about 30 minutes and use this charge to see how much charge your batteries have.
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03-24-2020, 03:32 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyFamilyRV
Sorry about that, thought it was a single image link. Here's the picture of how they are wired.
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Theoretically, these are wired correctly. Practically, they are not.
This diagram shows both output cables connected to the upper set of batteries. For an even charge and discharge, ONE of them (not both) should be relocated to the lower set.
__________________
2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
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03-24-2020, 03:41 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,286
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I use the Victron BMV 700 and I am very happy with it. It’s about $150. If you will be doing any boondocking it is well worth the price.
https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energ.../dp/B01BVQR0V8
It uses a shunt to monitor exactly what is coming in and out of your batteries. It will tell you the exact state of charge in % , voltage reading, amp hours used, amp hours remaining, and all sorts of good info.
__________________
Mike
2017 F250 6.7 Powerstroke FX4 crew cab
2016 Hideout 24BHSWE (27 foot TT)
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03-24-2020, 03:42 PM
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#37
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Lakewood
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
IMHO, without spending lots of money, a simple voltmeter is the "best charge indicator" you can own. Measure the voltage at the battery terminals. Turn on the generator and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. If it goes up (and it will if the charger is operating properly) you can divide the "no charge voltage by the charge voltage" to determine the "percentage of charge" being applied to the battery bank.
Simple to use, simple to calculate, but it's more complicated than "push a button and walk away"... Again, IMHO, we've "dumbed down logical thinking" to the point that many people simply can't comprehend WHAT and WHY they are doing a test. They "just want the results" and have NO EARTHLY IDEA what the results mean beyond what the "red/green indicator" reflects.....
So, if you have a HF $6 voltmeter, use it and "think beyond what the reading indicates to "what the reading means with that indication".... In other words, if you think about what you're doing, it'll all make sense.....
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I have a Voltmeter. Next time I fire up the Gen, I will try this, thank you!
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03-24-2020, 03:44 PM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Lakewood
Posts: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LHaven
Theoretically, these are wired correctly. Practically, they are not.
This diagram shows both output cables connected to the upper set of batteries. For an even charge and discharge, ONE of them (not both) should be relocated to the lower set.
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I'll definitely look into this, because this is exactly how I physically wired them.
Thank you!
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03-24-2020, 03:46 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Wickenburg
Posts: 3,271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyFamilyRV
I'll definitely look into this, because this is exactly how I physically wired them.
Thank you!
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Six months ago, I would have done exactly the same, considering the connecting cable between them to have such a low resistance as to be insignificant compared to the rest of the system. Apparently, that is not true, as explained by the veteran mechanics here.
__________________
2019 Cougar 26RBSWE
2019 Ford F-250
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03-24-2020, 03:47 PM
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#40
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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When the auto manufacturers went away from analog gauges and stated using warning light only my father called them "idiot lights". I believe that's what you are relying on for your battery information.
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Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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