Solar Crossroads

[Keystoned]

Hi all, been reading many of the solar related threads here and want to get some ideas on our situation.
Our old TT has this 200W kit along with 2 12v AGM Grp24 batteries; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The batts are 1 year old and the system is going on 4. I had to use those batts because that is all that would fit on the A frame due to the shape of the trailer nose.

Our 'new' 5W has one dead Grp27 battery

Has enough tech improvement happened in the last 4 years such that it would be better to leave the system on the TT, which is for sale now, and get new stuff for the 5W?

I was thinking about leaving the wiring on the TT and transferring everything else over. Running the wires was the hardest part honestly. I'm not sure many prospective buyers even see the solar as the great thing it is.

It served us well for how we use it. We pretty much just use what 12v stuff that is in a normal trailer. We might want to watch OTA TV for news and weather, so either a 12v TV or inverter might be added. We prefer not being hooked up in a rv park if we can avoid it...

I've also read about the power the auto-leveling uses and I plan on doing the work myself, again.

Thanks in advance!

[roadglide]

Originally Posted by Keystoned

Hi all, been reading many of the solar related threads here and want to get some ideas on our situation.
Our old TT has this 200W kit along with 2 12v AGM Grp24 batteries; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The batts are 1 year old and the system is going on 4. I had to use those batts because that is all that would fit on the A frame due to the shape of the trailer nose.

Our 'new' 5W has one dead Grp27 battery

Has enough tech improvement happened in the last 4 years such that it would be better to leave the system on the TT, which is for sale now, and get new stuff for the 5W?

I was thinking about leaving the wiring on the TT and transferring everything else over. Running the wires was the hardest part honestly. I'm not sure many prospective buyers even see the solar as the great thing it is.

It served us well for how we use it. We pretty much just use what 12v stuff that is in a normal trailer. We might want to watch OTA TV for news and weather, so either a 12v TV or inverter might be added. We prefer not being hooked up in a rv park if we can avoid it...

I've also read about the power the auto-leveling uses and I plan on doing the work myself, again.

Thanks in advance!

T he questions are what ? Since I drank a half fifth of Jd here in the desert passed out with my friend and woke up to raw t bone stakes 1045 and probably get wack by the weight policy .

[chuckster57]

I’m not a solar expert by any means, but I will say it seems to be a very popular feature among newer customers. I would be inclined to leave it and use it as a selling point.

It seems like panels are getting more powerful for their size so technology probably has improved.

[Keystoned]

Originally Posted by roadglide

T he questions are what ? Since I drank a half fifth of Jd here in the desert passed out with my friend and woke up to raw t bone stakes 1045 and probably get wack by the weight policy .

Has enough tech improvement happened in the last 4 years such that it would be better to leave the system on the TT, which is for sale now, and get new stuff for the 5W?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Keystoned

Has enough tech improvement happened in the last 4 years such that it would be better to leave the system on the TT, which is for sale now, and get new stuff for the 5W?

That's a question only you can answer. You need to figure out if leaving it on increases the value and by how much, what the replacement cost would be and if the increase in performance (if any) is worth the money that you would have to lay out for the "new and improved" system. Only you can place the "value" of that number.

[Keystoned]

Sounds like not much has changed in the last 4 years...

[Customer1]

Nothing has changed, move the system

[coop341]

Originally Posted by roadglide

T he questions are what ? Since I drank a half fifth of Jd here in the desert passed out with my friend and woke up to raw t bone stakes 1045 and probably get wack by the weight policy .

Ha! Been there! :lol

[Keystoned]

Originally Posted by Customer1

Nothing has changed, move the system

I'm tending towards that but probably will put the panels at the rear this time to balance out the load of more batteries up front. I'll probably need larger cables anyway due to the much longer run, so I'll leave the old cables on the old TT.

[Keystoned]

Okay 5th Wh solar folks...I'm scratching my head on how to route the wires here. It was cut and dry for the old TT.
My fridge is in the slide out, so it's vent is not on the roof, there goes that idea.
The batteries are in the front storage area and I don't see a nice drop down route there.
Not an easy path thru the wardrobe on the side of the bed back to the batteries.
Probably should not route wires down the outside, right?
Any ideas or good examples out there?

[JRTJH]

There are "midship galley cabinets" over the sink. You might be able to route the wires through a "roof passthrough device" (available at most RV stores) down to the cabinets, then either along the corner of the trailer (in an electrical run) or from the cabinet, into the wall separating the bath from the main cabin and down into the space behind the passthrough storage. I'm just looking at the floorplan in the 2015 brochure, so not sure whether the cabinets reach the ceiling or if you'd have some "cosmetic issues" with that type of entry.

[chuckster57]

We use a wall that will take the controller. Open the wall and drill UP through the rafters and out onto the roof. There are different styles of roof plates, and it may shorten the cable run. Often times we use the wall that has the breaker panel because there will be plenty of room from all the wiring to get the cables into the underbelly.

[Keystoned]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

There are "midship galley cabinets" over the sink. You might be able to route the wires through a "roof passthrough device" (available at most RV stores) down to the cabinets, then either along the corner of the trailer (in an electrical run) or from the cabinet, into the wall separating the bath from the main cabin and down into the space behind the passthrough storage. I'm just looking at the floorplan in the 2015 brochure, so not sure whether the cabinets reach the ceiling or if you'd have some "cosmetic issues" with that type of entry.

Good ideas. The cabinets do not reach the ceiling but maybe some corner trim can cover the cables. I'll trace this route and measure the length, etc.

[Keystoned]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

We use a wall that will take the controller. Open the wall and drill UP through the rafters and out onto the roof. There are different styles of roof plates, and it may shorten the cable run. Often times we use the wall that has the breaker panel because there will be plenty of room from all the wiring to get the cables into the underbelly.

Another good idea but I've not removed an interior wall before and don't want to mess it up. I'll look for some you tubes I guess.
Unfortunately, the breaker panel is at the exact opposite and farthest diagonal corner from the batteries...

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Keystoned

...
Unfortunately, the breaker panel is at the exact opposite and farthest diagonal corner from the batteries...

That "shouldn't be a significant issue" when you think about it, Keystone has already run the "battery charge wiring" from the circuit breaker/charger panel to the batteries for you. All you need to do is connect your solar charging system to the existing "battery wiring" (assuming it's large enough for your new system). No need to "run all new wiring" when the existing wiring will work...…

[Keystoned]

That may be a brilliant idea!
Can I piggy back onto it or do have to switch between solar and the converter to prevent charging issues?

[chuckster57]

We usually run separate wires to the battery. I’m not sure you would want to tie the charging systems together.

Taking a wall apart is easy. Just take the trim off the edge, and then gently pull the 24g staples out. We use 18g brads to plug it back together and putty the holes.

[Keystoned]

Yeah, I'm not sure either. But from a circuit point of view, and I'm not great at that, the two charging systems meet at the battery when separate wires are run. Are they not tied together anyway?
I would hate to ruin one or both systems...

On the TT, we rarely used the converter to charge the batts anyway, since the solar does a great job. We plug in to run the fridge before departing or run electric heaters or watch the TV or worst case, AC. We are usually dry camping if we can help it.

[chuckster57]

Both systems are charging the battery(s), but I’m not an electrician or electrical engineer so I don’t know the science. Maybe the controller has some protection to prevent any hack feeding.

[Keystoned]

If it saves me from running 40 feet of wire, I have no problem with an A B switch near the converter and co-located solar controller...assuming that would work.