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Old 08-04-2015, 06:17 PM   #1
MontanaMike
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Tow Vehicle Tires

I have a new 2015 Ram 3500 SWD long box that I love. It came with Firestone Transforce HT's in 275/70R18's and they seemed to be decent tires. Last weekend we went for a drive (unloaded) on some dirt roads that I've driven 1000's of times and got a flat doing 25MPH or so. We stopped within 50 yards of noticing it and put the spare on. Well, the original is toast. They say we drove too far on the flat and ruined the tire. I expected to replace the OE tires before winter set in (I live in Montana and spend a lot of time driving on snowy, icy and dirt roads so an AT tire is a must) but this blowout accelerated it for me.

I've run Toyo Open Countries and Cooper AT's in the past and had good results in traction but not very good in longevity so I'm looking at others. I've narrowed it down to two and am wondering if anybody has any experience with them and maybe some recommendations on other brands.

Keep in mind that from October to late March we have snow packed and icy conditions and when towing my toyhauler the rest of the months (Carbon 357...3100 pin weight) it's mostly on dirt roads to get to our camp spots.

The two I'm looking are:

1.) BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....num=77R8KO2RWL)
and
2.) Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac's (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....rtnum=77QR8WDT)

I think I'd like to get the T/A KO2's but I can't find any reviews from people that toy with them. They are E rated so they are rated for 3600 pound loads like the Goodyears are so I should be fine with them.

Any recommendations or experience with either?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-04-2015, 07:03 PM   #2
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I've had some experience with each, the BFGs on my truck. I like the tires for traction, but I've never been impressed with the wear of BFGs. The GYs were on a friends Dodge, I wasn't impressed with the ride and noise. I've also run Yokohama Geolander and Michelin LTX A/T2 and hands down would go with the Michelins. They have a 60k mile warranty and will exceed that. They are a little more money than some other tires, but when you factor in the miles you get out of them, they are actually cheaper per mile.
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Old 08-04-2015, 07:07 PM   #3
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My transforce on my ram 3500 are about shot at 31k miles. 3500 of those towing my fuzion. Seems the options are another set of transforce or the Goodyear with Kevlar. Those r pricey at 450 each (20 inch wheel)
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Old 08-04-2015, 07:14 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtsum2 View Post
My transforce on my ram 3500 are about shot at 31k miles. 3500 of those towing my fuzion. Seems the options are another set of transforce or the Goodyear with Kevlar. Those r pricey at 450 each (20 inch wheel)
I know a lot of people running Transforce tires and getting close to 100k miles out of them. The OE tires are a different spec than what you buy from a tire dealer. Very few OE tires will last long. The OE Michelin LTX M/S2 on my truck lasted less than 50k, the current ones I got from Discount Tire have 65k on them and still have 7/32 tread left. Should get around 100k out of them.
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:31 PM   #5
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I was quite pleased with the Transforce that came on the Ram. I just replaced them at 58000 and at least 48000 was towing my heavy 5vr! I would have stayed with with Transforce but had a "road hazard" that was not repairable at the 1000 mile mark. Firestone would not stand behind their tire and neither would the dealer! Amazing how both Firstone and the dealer used the phrase of the day... "we would really like to help, but our hands are tied"! I decided right then not to purchase Firestone again!

I guess that was a long way around to say I now have the Michelin LTX MS/2
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:40 AM   #6
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I can't find a Michelin option in 285/60r20 sizes. Says my only choices are Goodyear or Firestone
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:10 AM   #7
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That changes things a bit. If it were me, I'd go to a 275/65 R20. They're only .6" taller and will give you a lot of tire options and will save you some money. The difference in height will only put your speedo off by 1 mph at 65. You could reprogram the computer for the new size, but that small of a difference won't effect anything.
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Old 08-05-2015, 08:04 AM   #8
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The BFG tires always seemed noisy to me but I ran them for years.

I now run the Nitto Terra Grappler G2's on my rig and am fairly happy with them. They have a 50,000 mile warranty and seem to wear very even. The road noise is reduced but still audible.

Good luck.
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:06 AM   #9
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The BFG will get noisy. I ran them and that was my primary complaint. I've ran all kinds of Goodyear Wrangler's but not the Duratrac. In fact, I'm having a set of Goodyear Wrangler Armortrac? put on my Jeep at 1 pm today. They seem as good as the BFGs but seem to be quieter to me.

I don't really know the mileages because I replace tires on any of my vehicles at 5yrs or 50k miles, whichever comes first.

I currently have the Firestone Transforce 285/60 20 on my 2014 w/19k miles and I hate to hear about the tire failure and the poor service from Firestone. Many years ago I swore off Firestone and hadn't bought another until they came on this truck. Guess I'll have to go back to my original plan although I have actually been impressed with these tires.
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:20 AM   #10
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We ditched the Michelin LT275x65x20's on my daughter and son in laws truck at about 50K miles. Went with the BFG KO2's and love them so far. Better traction...looks and they actually ride better. Went a little taller and wider LT285x65x20.
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:27 AM   #11
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Here's a pic...no rubbing at stock height!
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Old 08-06-2015, 06:21 AM   #12
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Thanks for the input all. I had the KO2's put on yesterday and I already notice a world of difference between them and the Transforce HT's that were OE and my 1 ton. The deciding factor was the positive reviews and ratings from TireRack, Amazon and Discount Tire. Seems the only big issue people were running into was a balance problem and I figure that can be resolved by the dealer. I also liked that they had a thicker (3 ply) sidewall compared to the others that were only 2 ply according to the dealer. The price between all three (KO2, Duratrac and the Michelin LTX A/T 2) was a wash. Price wasn't an issue. Warranty was a concern because the KO2's don't have a tread life warranty but they are warrantied for 6 years. 1st year it's a 100% replacement and after that it's pro-rated.

So now my question is tire pressure. The Dodge dealer always pumped the Transforce up to 80psi all the way around but the sticker on the doorjamb of my truck says otherwise. Like 60 PSI up front and 70 on the backs. Max load on the tires is 80 PSI. I'm thinking running 65-70 up front and 75 in the back. My RV is a bit on the heavy side (empty pin weight is almost 3100 lbs) so I think the extra few lbs of air would help. Was the Dodge dealer wrong at maxing the Transforce's out? Should I just stick with the sticker on the doorjamb?
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:00 AM   #13
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Your door jam likely says 65 front and 80 rear. That is what I run with my combo below. What size KO did you get? I need to replace my transforce also. I can find the Michelin in a size that is close to the 285/60R20 that the transforce is (I think the Michelin would actually be a bit bigger than the Transforce?_)
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtsum2 View Post
Your door jam likely says 65 front and 80 rear. That is what I run with my combo below. What size KO did you get? I need to replace my transforce also. I can find the Michelin in a size that is close to the 285/60R20 that the transforce is (I think the Michelin would actually be a bit bigger than the Transforce?_)
I got the KOs in 275/70R18 which is the same size as the Transforces are.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:12 AM   #15
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Years ago, every truck owner's manual had a tire "weight/air pressure" chart in it. During the "dummy down" that occurred when soccer moms started driving crew cab trucks and many owners didn't want to be "bothered with facts," that chart disappeared and the information for a "one size fits all" door sticker appeared.

My tires have a max single load of 3640 at 80 PSI and a dually load of 3305 at 80 PSI. My rear axle (single) is rated at 6100 lbs, so theoretically my tires would be rated at 7280 (1180 pounds over the axle rating) if I ran them at 80 PSI. The actual weight on my rear axle is much less than that when not towing and closer to 70 PSI (per the chart) when hitched to my fifth wheel. The only way to "really know" is to run across a scale.

I'd suggest finding a "weight/air pressure" chart for your tire size, weigh your axles (front and back) with the truck as you normally drive it, find the correct air pressure for that weight (for the empty truck) and then weigh the axles with the trailer attached and find the correct air pressure for that weight (for towing). There will be minor changes in those weights with every tow, but they should be "close enough" for most applications.

Some people use the "chalk test" to determine if the tread is "flat against the concrete" or monitor "center/edge tread wear" (sort of an after it's worn test). Some will suggest you "max out" the tire when towing (better sidewall rigidity) and some will suggest "just find a happy medium" and don't worry about it.

I think knowing what weight is on your axle and adjusting the tire pressure for that load is the most reliable. Others may have different opinions.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:15 AM   #16
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I think I would go with the tire manufactures (sidewall of tire) recommendations over the vehicle door sticker. I run the maximum psi recommended by the sidewall when towing th camper.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Years ago, every truck owner's manual had a tire "weight/air pressure" chart in it. During the "dummy down" that occurred when soccer moms started driving crew cab trucks and many owners didn't want to be "bothered with facts," that chart disappeared and the information for a "one size fits all" door sticker appeared.

My tires have a max single load of 3640 at 80 PSI and a dually load of 3305 at 80 PSI. My rear axle (single) is rated at 6100 lbs, so theoretically my tires would be rated at 7280 (1180 pounds over the axle rating) if I ran them at 80 PSI. The actual weight on my rear axle is much less than that when not towing and closer to 70 PSI (per the chart) when hitched to my fifth wheel. The only way to "really know" is to run across a scale.

I'd suggest finding a "weight/air pressure" chart for your tire size, weigh your axles (front and back) with the truck as you normally drive it, find the correct air pressure for that weight (for the empty truck) and then weigh the axles with the trailer attached and find the correct air pressure for that weight (for towing). There will be minor changes in those weights with every tow, but they should be "close enough" for most applications.

Some people use the "chalk test" to determine if the tread is "flat against the concrete" or monitor "center/edge tread wear" (sort of an after it's worn test). Some will suggest you "max out" the tire when towing (better sidewall rigidity) and some will suggest "just find a happy medium" and don't worry about it.

I think knowing what weight is on your axle and adjusting the tire pressure for that load is the most reliable. Others may have different opinions.
Much better and well thought out than what I do.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:08 AM   #18
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The tire pressure question is like the Dodge vs Chevy vs Ford conversation anymore.

The pressure listed on the sidewall is the maximum pressure for that tire. It's not the recommended pressure for all uses. That pressure is determined by the load primarily. Other considerations are comfort, mileage, safety etc.
John hit the nail on the head. You have to have a lot of info to correctly inflate the tire.

I repeatedly had this conversation with my fleet dept. back when. Every time I took my company car in (a Dodge Intrepid at the time) they would inflate the tires to max pressure and chide me for running them "low" at 30psi. The max on the sidewall was 35-40psi if I recall. Max pressure on the low profile tires made the ride rough, which got old driving 70k miles a year and handling in the rain was skittish at best. I tried to explain the issue to them, and although they worked for me in my organization, I did not make them change their ways (I just kept airing down after they worked on the vehicle). They took care of everything from trailers, small sedans, etc. all the way to 2-3 ton trucks. There was no good way for them to determine customized pressures for each vehicle due to the complexities John listed above so we just kept with the sidewall pressure.

My truck is listed for 65psi front and 80psi (max for tire) for all situations. That simply is far too much air in the rear. It is a cya for the manufacturer.
I run 65psi all around when empty (and deal with the low pressure alarm) and 65/80 when pulling the trailer and all is well.
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:29 AM   #19
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The psi's on the door jamb is for the stock tires...change tires to a different brand or size and a good chance you'll be off. If you go to the max psi on the sidewall for daily driving with an empty truck good chances you'll have your eyeballs rattling! Air up when loaded and let some air out for a smoother ride when not towing or hauling. You'll have to experiment to find the sweet spot.
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Old 08-06-2015, 03:39 PM   #20
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The psi's on the door jamb is for the stock tires...change tires to a different brand or size and a good chance you'll be off. If you go to the max psi on the sidewall for daily driving with an empty truck good chances you'll have your eyeballs rattling! Air up when loaded and let some air out for a smoother ride when not towing or hauling. You'll have to experiment to find the sweet spot.
^^^Yeah, that.^^^

Common sense, as outlined by others in this thread.
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