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Old 10-10-2013, 04:27 PM   #21
Shogunles
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Many people blow it out, others use a hand pump and pump RV antifreeze into the line until they hear it in the black tank. Personally, I blow it out, then go under the sink and remove the antisiphon valve and store it with some other things we keep in the garage through the winter. That way, I know the valve won't freeze (unless the house freezes, that is).
Thank you. Again this is all new to me. Where exactly is the anti siphon hose and what is it connected to? Would it be in the manuals?
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:25 AM   #22
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The anti-siphon valve is a part of the black tank flush system. It us usually connected to the PEX tubing under the sink. Its purpose is to prevent backflow from the black tank into the water supply while flushing the black tank.

This is what it looks like to help you locate it. Many are under the vanity, some behind the shower wall. It's the part that "hummmmmmms" when you use the black tank flush.

It is "too fragile" and is the "weak link" in the black flush system. Some people have replaced it with a brass anti-siphon valve with good results. So far, I haven't had problems. Thinking pro-actively, I guess I should replace it before I have a flooded vanity, but keep forgetting to check for a suitable valve when I'm at Lowes. Oh, did I mention: I HATE PLUMBING !!! LOL
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:19 PM   #23
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The anti-siphon valve is a part of the black tank flush system. It us usually connected to the PEX tubing under the sink. Its purpose is to prevent backflow from the black tank into the water supply while flushing the black tank.

This is what it looks like to help you locate it. Many are under the vanity, some behind the shower wall. It's the part that "hummmmmmms" when you use the black tank flush.

It is "too fragile" and is the "weak link" in the black flush system. Some people have replaced it with a brass anti-siphon valve with good results. So far, I haven't had problems. Thinking pro-actively, I guess I should replace it before I have a flooded vanity, but keep forgetting to check for a suitable valve when I'm at Lowes. Oh, did I mention: I HATE PLUMBING !!! LOL
Not my strongest subject either! So you actually remove the black fitting and bypass it with a jumper hose? What kind of fitting would replace that one?

I guess the smart thing to do is to open the water to the flush a little at a time to make sure you do not get a flood. This is one of the issues I have with Keystone. Plastic fittings. How much more would it actually be to use brass fittings!

I would have never have known what that was or where it was located. Thank you for the heads up!
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Old 10-12-2013, 06:19 AM   #24
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No I don't "replace" it with anything. I simply take it off, put it in a box with some other things that we want to protect from freezing (hand soap dispenser, sun screen, hand lotion, etc) and leave the fittings open.

The black tank flush system is nothing more than a fitting on the outside of the RV with tubing running to that anti-siphon valve, then tubing running to the black tank sprayer head. It is NOT connected to the RV fresh water system in any way and is not connected to the gray tanks. Its "sole purpose" is to prevent sewer gas and fluids from "siphoning" back to the garden hose used to spray water into the black tank during flushing. The "danger" is that if sewer fluids were to "siphon" from the black tank, they could conceivably flow into the garden hose and cause contamination or spread of germs that are in the tank to an unsuspecting person who uses the hose for drinking purposes. So, that's the reason for the "double safety" practice of using a separate hose for black tank flushing and not using that hose to fill your fresh water tank or connect to campground water supply.

Most home garden hose faucets have an anti-siphon feature to prevent the effluent from your black tank from entering the house (or campground) water system, but it could enter the hose and cause contamination that way.

So, after all this "windy rubbish" I guess what I'm trying to say is that it does have a purpose (although it probalby wouldn't happen anyway) in the system. And when we remove it, we just leave the fittings open until next year and reinstall the valve as a part of the "de-winterization" process.

As for turning on the water gradually when using the black tank flush, some here have suggested (and I also follow the advice) that you turn on your water supply very slowly when using the black tank flush. There is a valve in there that snaps open when water is turned on. If you turn it on rapidly, the valve snaps open hard, turn it on slowly and the valve snaps open softly. The easier you "snap" that valve, the longer it will last before it snaps (breaks) the seat it's in and starts leaking.....

Hope that helps a little
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:15 PM   #25
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No I don't "replace" it with anything. I simply take it off, put it in a box with some other things that we want to protect from freezing (hand soap dispenser, sun screen, hand lotion, etc) and leave the fittings open.

The black tank flush system is nothing more than a fitting on the outside of the RV with tubing running to that anti-siphon valve, then tubing running to the black tank sprayer head. It is NOT connected to the RV fresh water system in any way and is not connected to the gray tanks. Its "sole purpose" is to prevent sewer gas and fluids from "siphoning" back to the garden hose used to spray water into the black tank during flushing. The "danger" is that if sewer fluids were to "siphon" from the black tank, they could conceivably flow into the garden hose and cause contamination or spread of germs that are in the tank to an unsuspecting person who uses the hose for drinking purposes. So, that's the reason for the "double safety" practice of using a separate hose for black tank flushing and not using that hose to fill your fresh water tank or connect to campground water supply.

Most home garden hose faucets have an anti-siphon feature to prevent the effluent from your black tank from entering the house (or campground) water system, but it could enter the hose and cause contamination that way.

So, after all this "windy rubbish" I guess what I'm trying to say is that it does have a purpose (although it probalby wouldn't happen anyway) in the system. And when we remove it, we just leave the fittings open until next year and reinstall the valve as a part of the "de-winterization" process.

As for turning on the water gradually when using the black tank flush, some here have suggested (and I also follow the advice) that you turn on your water supply very slowly when using the black tank flush. There is a valve in there that snaps open when water is turned on. If you turn it on rapidly, the valve snaps open hard, turn it on slowly and the valve snaps open softly. The easier you "snap" that valve, the longer it will last before it snaps (breaks) the seat it's in and starts leaking.....

Hope that helps a little
Yes I understand now. I am not ignorant lol, rest assured. Since you opened my eyes to this I have read a number of forums on this. And found my fitting under the bathroom sink. Forgive me if you already answered this, I just want to be clear with all of this. So instead of using a pump to pump anti freeze into the black flush fitting, you just simply remove the anti siphon fitting so it does not freeze, correct?

I remember a few years ago, I had to install something similar on my auto lawn sprinklers as per code. It was not a big deal to do and as you said the dirty water contaminating the fresh water would probably never happen. But why not be sure.

I really do appreciate all of the help. I apologize if I am being repeat active. However, sometimes it is hard to get the picture someone is drawing when typing on a forum. Thank you for your patience, truly.
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:50 PM   #26
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I first use an air compressor and a garden hose/compressor adapter to blow out as much of the water as possible, then I remove and store the anti-siphon valve. Other than that, I don't do anything to the black tank flush system.
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Old 10-12-2013, 02:14 PM   #27
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Be careful hanging a lot of weight off the bathroom door.

as previously mentioned, too much weight will break your door:




see http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13266
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:53 AM   #28
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I first use an air compressor and a garden hose/compressor adapter to blow out as much of the water as possible, then I remove and store the anti-siphon valve. Other than that, I don't do anything to the black tank flush system.
Obviously you need to have the black tank valve open to blow it out.
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:54 AM   #29
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as previously mentioned, too much weight will break your door:




see http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13266
Yikes! Hope that was not your door! Those doors are nothing more than cardboard.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:48 AM   #30
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Obviously you need to have the black tank valve open to blow it out.
Obviously ? Yes, obviously....... Some things are simply "understood" to be accomplished.... sort of like: Walk to the side of the RV, Locate the Black Tank Flush fitting..... etc.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:06 PM   #31
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Just bought a 2014 keystone Springdale 267 and guess what we received both TP holder and towel holder we had to put them up and they were not great ones but hey they work
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:28 PM   #32
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At least they gave them to you. You would think for $31k plus they would at least throw them in right LOL! Sometimes to see certain issues you need to live in it. My fault for assuming it had them and winter kit on the pump and water heater bypass. Never assume as they say! Be well!
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Old 10-13-2013, 06:33 PM   #33
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Obviously ? Yes, obviously....... Some things are simply "understood" to be accomplished.... sort of like: Walk to the side of the RV, Locate the Black Tank Flush fitting..... etc.
Just making conversation Friend. And you are correct. Apologies if I pushed your buttons. Wasn't my intent. I appreciate your help with this. Thank you and Be well!
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Old 11-03-2013, 03:27 PM   #34
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Gary... What I got from other members and looking at my water heater is that you must add the bypass kit. Cheap and easy to do. Just wish it was already there for the price we paid. No worries.


Kristi... Thanks for the input. I am going to start with one kit(2 stabilizers) and see how it goes. I already have the X Chocks which already stopped the front to rear shaking.

Thank you for the advice on the to holders and towel bars. Those doors as stated cannot support much weight. So we will keep the weight to a minimum. I think I am going to screw a to holder under the GCFI on the vanity using a small nailer board. Or just go with a free standing one.

With all of the luxury upgrades on this unit compared to the other units we owned, we are just surprised that there was not a winterization kit on the pump or a bypass on the water heater. They really are not big money upgrades for Keystone to add and easy enough to do. And for myself to do.

Thank you for all of you informative posts.
Winterized today did not have to add the bypass kit. As I first thought the one knob is all you need. Turned the knob and the top must have a check valve or something. No air or antifreeze entered tank so that was all that was needed. Had a kit to add to the pump but the pump is different so had to rig something to through the pump. Now I have 2 kits that I cannot use and too far from the store to return them, oh well.
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