Rigid Ride with new install

bucketman · 06-19-2013, 07:16 AM

New Equal-lizer hitch. Dealer installed. This install turned my F150 into a ride like a F350 without load. I said to dealer that my truck set higher after hook up than before. Very unsatisfied with ride. Does anybody think that the install is incorrect. Hitch ratings are 1000#tw and 10000 gvw. Trailer is 600# Hitch weight and 7000 gvw Any ideas? Should I move L brackets, add washers, or reset hitch height? Dealer said without riding in vehicle that the stiffness of the ride is normal. It actually hurts my back with the jarring. I have a 3000 # boat I tow and my ride is not stiff so I think he is trying to brush it off.

joeyb · 06-19-2013, 07:35 AM

Doesn't sound right. You should feel more rigid but nothing like a dump truck suspension. I love my Equalizer. I followed the manual and it worked fine, may need to readjust a few times for a good WD.
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/

ewkearns · 06-19-2013, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucketman

New Equal-lizer hitch. Dealer installed. This install turned my F150 into a ride like a F350 without load. I said to dealer that my truck set higher after hook up than before. Very unsatisfied with ride. Does anybody think that the install is incorrect. Hitch ratings are 1000#tw and 10000 gvw. Trailer is 600# Hitch weight and 7000 gvw Any ideas? Should I move L brackets, add washers, or reset hitch height? Dealer said without riding in vehicle that the stiffness of the ride is normal. It actually hurts my back with the jarring. I have a 3000 # boat I tow and my ride is not stiff so I think he is trying to brush it off.

Something is wrong..... did it sit higher in the rear hitched up than it did unhitched?? If so, there is WAY too much weight shifted to the front....

So much so, it sounds dangerous....

f6bits · 06-19-2013, 09:43 AM

Your setup is similar to mine, including the 1000# bars. Mine feels "heavy" while towing, but not stiff.

My front end rises about ⅜" with this setup. The rear drops an inch or so. Darned if I can't remember how many washers in the shank. I'm thinking 6 or 7.

All I can say is to read the Equalizer manual and adjust accordingly.

bucketman · 06-19-2013, 11:00 AM

Thanks for the input. Yes the back is higher after hook up. I looked at Scott's picture and I see two main difference's in his installation than mine. I also have a 09 F150 Supercrew. My L brackets are one knotch lower and my ball is set higher than Scotts. The insert into the receiver is inverse to Scotts. I really have to jack up tongue to it's limit to get the trunnions to slip on. I can jump on the tongue and it may move 1/4 of an inch the way it is set up and I weigh 240#

Bob Landry · 06-19-2013, 02:43 PM

If the rear is higher hitch than unhitched, you are transfering too much weight to the front axle. Your truck's manual will tell you what the hitched height should be. If it's like other Fords, it's going to be half of the difference between hitched and unhitched. Sounds like the dealer doesn't want to mess with it, and if this is the result of his initial setup, I wouldn't want him to anyway.

labs4life · 06-19-2013, 04:22 PM

You will take more time and get it perfect where the dealer will reset it and say there u go. I also have an equal-I-zer and I moved it 3or 4 times before I got it "perfect". Take your time and read the manual. Then adjust hitch, reread manual and go for a drive at camping weight. Then you will have a better picture of what to do.

chartrand · 06-19-2013, 05:39 PM

Sounds like an adjustment is needed. I have the equalizer as well, and check my wheel well heights before I leave on a trip. Right ow my font is 1/2 inch lower and back is also about 1/2 inch lower. It's a wonderful setup right now, and rides real nice.

f6bits · 06-19-2013, 06:59 PM

My hitch ball is at that height because that's what it takes for my trailer to sit level. Measuring frame to ground, the front and rear ends of the trailer are within an inch of each other.

My L brackets are in that position simply because that's what it takes for the bars to be parallel to the A-Frame, as per the Equalizer instructions.

No way should your truck's rear end rise when hooked up with WD.

bucketman · 06-19-2013, 08:04 PM

I will play with it as soon as I get my trailer again. It's in repair shop for a hot wheel. I think brake was set wrong from factory. You guys give me confidence that I can get the ride right. Thanks so much

BulletOwner1 · 06-19-2013, 08:19 PM

Bucketman,

Was it the hitch dealer or the RV dealer? I took mine to a professional hitch dealer and they fixed and adjusted mine. Not your type of hitch, I have ezlift, but a hitch place would be the way to go. I did gather that you take measurements both front and rear tire to fender lip distance unhooked. Then hook up and measure again. The front should be just slightly higher than the rear. Less than an inch. In other words if when unloaded the distance difference front to rear is say 2 inches then after hookup the distance difference should be less than 3 inches.

When I went to the shop the first thing they did was put the trailer on a level spot and adjust the tongue so the trailer was spot on level. Measured the hitch height. Then adjusted the ball to the corresponding height and angle. Your hitch angle may be different, I don't know.

The above posts that say to read the install directions are correct. Always good to read them (first). Don't ask me how I know

.

Richard

Edit: Just went to the Equalizer web site and the installation manual is there to download. Also very clear instructions. Should be a piece of cake. By the way, your dealer full of marshmallows.

Bob Landry · 06-20-2013, 04:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BulletOwner1

Bucketman,

Was it the hitch dealer or the RV dealer? I took mine to a professional hitch dealer and they fixed and adjusted mine. Not your type of hitch, I have ezlift, but a hitch place would be the way to go. I did gather that you take measurements both front and rear tire to fender lip distance unhooked. Then hook up and measure again. The front should be just slightly higher than the rear. Less than an inch. In other words if when unloaded the distance difference front to rear is say 2 inches then after hookup the distance difference should be less than 3 inches.

When I went to the shop the first thing they did was put the trailer on a level spot and adjust the tongue so the trailer was spot on level. Measured the hitch height. Then adjusted the ball to the corresponding height and angle. Your hitch angle may be different, I don't know.

The above posts that say to read the install directions are correct. Always good to read them (first). Don't ask me how I know

.

Richard

Edit: Just went to the Equalizer web site and the installation manual is there to download. Also very clear instructions. Should be a piece of cake. By the way, your dealer full of marshmallows.

The hitched height difference between front and rear is irrelevant. First, the rear is almost always going to be lower, but more important, is that the rear measurement has nothing to do with adjusting any hitch. The purpose of WD is not to level the TV or adjust the height of the rear, it's to replace weight to the front axle. If there is a hitch manufacturers that even talks about the rear height in their installation instructions, I would like to see it. I've never seen one so far. Get the front right and let the rear take care of itself.

ewkearns · 06-20-2013, 05:11 AM

Bottom line.... Equal-I-Zer has a very good and concise manual.... a la the cookbook style. Follow their instructions and you should be fine.....

The only storm clouds on the horizon are the following tools:

TOOLS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION
The following tools will allow you to install the hitch properly.
1-1/8” Box-end wrench (Shank Bolts)
1-1/8” Socket wrench (Shank Bolts)
3/4” Box-end wrench (Link Plates and L-brackets)
3/4” Socket wrench (Link Plates and L-brackets)
5/8” Socket or box-end wrench (Angle Set Bolt)
Torque wrench capable of 320 Ft-lbs of torque. (Shank Bolts)
Torque wrench capable of 75 Ft-lbs of torque. (Sway Bracket Assembly)

Recommended tools for installing the Hitch Ball:
1-7/8” Thin-wall socket (available from Progress Mfg. Inc.)
Torque Wrench capable of 430 Ft-lbs of torque (or higher if hitch
ball manufacturer specifies.)

Most folks don't have some of the larger wrenches, sockets, or HD torque wrench......

BulletOwner1 · 06-20-2013, 09:18 AM

Bob,

I stand summarily chastised. The tech I had do mine did check that distance though. I think the theory is that when all is said and done, starting with a level trailer and pickup unhooked, that hooked up ready to go the rear of the pickup should be back at the same point as when unhooked and the front of the pickup slightly higher.

Richard

B&T · 06-20-2013, 11:24 AM

I tend to agree with Bob that getting the front of the TV back to pre-hookup conditions is more important than the amount of settling on the rear of the TV -- But there are some WDH instructions that do make reference to the rear of the TV

Here is just one summary example of Reese WDH adjustment instructions, taken from:

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/dow...ion/N66022.pdf

Quote:

1.Pick reference points on front and rear wheel wells. Measure and record distance to pavement. Front wheel well to pavement _______Rear wheel well to pavement_______.

7. Lower jack. Re-measure front and rear wheel well reference points(vehicle should settle evenly,within about 1/2 inch). If front has settled more than rear,increase the number of chain links between yoke hook and spring bar.

If there are no more links, the angle of the head assembly must be decreased.The trailer must be uncoupled and the upper bolt removed from the head assembly. The head assembly is then pivoted up as appropriate. Reassemble.

If rear has settled more than front, reduce the number of links between hook and spring bar.

It is preferred that rear of vehicle settle the same or more than the front.

ewkearns · 06-20-2013, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

......If there is a hitch manufacturers that even talks about the rear height in their installation instructions, I would like to see it. I've never seen one so far. Get the front right and let the rear take care of itself.

You need to read the Equal-i-zer manual.....

PS.
That may be his problem, now.... the front *could* be right, yet the rear is higher than unloaded...... that is the fallacy of the "disregard the rear" argument....

bucketman · 06-23-2013, 05:21 PM

I just looked at my Hitch and it is rated for 600 TW and 6000 GVW. Now my tw is 590 and tt is 5305 empty. I think they installed the wrong rated hitch for my unit. What do you guys think would be the proper size hitch?? I'm thinking 1000-10000

f6bits · 06-23-2013, 06:32 PM

That's definitely an under-rated hitch. What made you think it was the 1K/10K early on? Hopefully they'll make the right switch.

bucketman · 06-24-2013, 08:15 AM

I never looked at the trunnions that had the specs on it. The service tech told me that it was rated for 10000 when he installed it.

bucketman · 06-27-2013, 01:33 PM

Finally got my TT home. They put a new brake assembly on and now no more hot wheel. I got the dealer to exchange for a 10000 hitch and I set it up according to directions and what a difference in the ride. Squats 1/2 inch in rear and front is the same as before. No sway, rides smooth, and semi's don't push me around on the interstate. Just setting up for traveling now. Whew!!!

Sooo Happy now

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