Trailer Sway Bars

Abcd · 06-02-2022, 06:10 AM

question

I've own travel trailers for awhile. i pulled with different trucks over the years, lease trucks, each one acts different. My new truck seams to be loose and some sway. I was looking up info on sway bars and hitch's. I ran across a article that says if you have a trailer over 27' feet you should have 2 sway bars. Do any of you use 2 sway bars? Does it really help if you do? I have a hideout that's approx. 27'.

**chuckster57** · 06-02-2022, 06:23 AM

What style of WD/Sway do you have? If you have bar/chain with the separate sway plates and bar, I suspect it’s not adjusted correctly.

Balvar24 · 06-02-2022, 06:54 AM

Someone will be along shortly to challenge you on your trailer/truck combination.

As mentioned above, set-up is of key importance.

Abcd · 06-02-2022, 06:56 AM

I'll check it when I get home later

**JRTJH** · 06-02-2022, 07:10 AM

Articles offer "opinions" and they are as varied as the internet allows... In other words, you'll find lots of information and much of it won't be the same as the last article you read.....

Here's a couple of "exerpts" from the Harbor Freight Owner's Manual for their brand of "sway control"... That manual alludes to needing two kits for larger trailers, but as you stated, " i pulled with different trucks over the years, lease trucks, each one acts different." It's the same with the need for sway control. Some rigs will "behave with one kit" some rigs will need two kits and some rigs may NEVER behave, no matter how many kits you can weld onto the receiver/hitch/trailer.....

So, about all you can do is try to "correctly set up your current hitch/sway control" and work with it to "optimize towing". If that works, great, if it doesn't, then make a decision to either add another "brake shoe type sway control kit" or change to a WD hitch with sway control incorporated in the hitch design. That MAY make a difference in sway control, or it MAY NOT make enough difference to justify the expense.

Keep in mind that there's no "hard and fast rule" that says 27' needs two kits and 26'11" only needs one kit".... Each rig will behave differently and each rig will need to be set up following the hitch manufacturer's procedure and then "tweaked to maximum performance".... That is as personal and individualized as "phone numbers".... Every one will be different.

Here's the link to the Harbor Freight Sway Control Kit: https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...kit-96462.html

bsmith0404 · 06-02-2022, 07:53 AM

Every hitch has different sway control ability/rating. Typically, the ones with the external strut that gets mounted to the hitch and trailer tongue is one of the lowest rated for sway control. Adding a second strut increase the sway control, but as mentioned, it depends if it will correct your concern. Personally, I don’t like those type of hitches. Too much to deal with having to mount the plate on the tongue, having to disconnect them to back up etc. I prefer the ones with the built in sway control and Blue Ox Sway Pro is my hitch of choice. With that said, since you already have the hitch, it’s not that expensive to add a second sway control and see if it works for you. Also, check your loading and make sure you have enough weight on the tongue. Another thing I would question/look at since you change trucks, what are your tires on the new truck, if it’s a 1/2 ton, most likely a P rated tire which has a very soft sidewall with a lot of flex which makes the back of the truck feel like it’s wandering.

dutchmensport · 06-02-2022, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Balvar24

Someone will be along shortly to challenge you on your trailer/truck combination.

As mentioned above, set-up is of key importance.

I suppose that would be me!

I towed my first trailer (24 foot long from hitch to bumper) with a 1500 Suburban, Reese WD hitch (bars with the chain links) and an add on sway bar. Trailer was tandem axel. Drove OK, but never felt really good. (OK, blew the transmission there and decided I better get something heavier and better).

Got my first long bed, crew cab, 3500 dually used (gas), and NEVER went back to a single wheel again. Second one was a used 3500 dually diesel long bed crew cab and it was pure awesome. Third one (brand new) was the one in my signature. Eventually, that truck led to a fifth wheel.

Point being made, dual wheels provide a lot of stability. And until most folks actually tow with a dually, they'll never understand the difference.

But, if getting a different truck is not an option, then at least consider getting a better weight distribution system. I switched over from the Reese bar and chain with no sway except the add on to an Equal-i-zer 4 point weight distribution hitch. It was beyond awesome once set up right. Yes, even with my dually's I used weight distribution.

The trailers went from 24 feet, to 31 feet, to 35.5 feet to the fifth wheel at 41.1 foot. Never had sway, and always felt steady as a rock.

Rather than messing around trying to fix something that isn't working, do the right thing and invest in a sound and solid weight distribution hitch with built in sway control. There are many out there, several are the same principle as the Equal-i-zer 4 point, some are totally different. But the end result is a much more pleasant tow.... even with your F150! You'll see a tremendous improvement! Don't mess around trying to fix something that can't be fixed.

Equal-i-zer, click here.

**flybouy** · 06-02-2022, 08:48 AM

I am not a fan of the "friction sway control" either. IMO it's ok for a pop-up but to me it's more problem than benefit. Take it off to back up, loosen it to remove it, tighten it after installing (how tight was that last time?). Forget to remove it and play bendy bar.

I don't understand why anyone would "cheap out" on the only thing between your your truck and your trailer and the safety of your family. Invest in a good brand 4 pt weight distributing hitch. Leave those cheap HF or Auto store hitches for towing a utility trailer. Get it set up ONCE and DONE! No fiddling every time you touch it.

JMHO, YMMV

**sourdough** · 06-02-2022, 09:04 AM

I have to agree with the assessment that the little "add on" friction plate sway bars are pretty much useless. I had one and never got that little 24' non slide trailer to pull right. The sway control from those things was literally useless - certainly not effective. Went to an Equalizer 4 point and it was a world of difference. That's too much trailer on a 1/2 ton to use a skimpy sway control.

Abcd · 06-02-2022, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

Every hitch has different sway control ability/rating. Typically, the ones with the external strut that gets mounted to the hitch and trailer tongue is one of the lowest rated for sway control. Adding a second strut increase the sway control, but as mentioned, it depends if it will correct your concern. Personally, I don’t like those type of hitches. Too much to deal with having to mount the plate on the tongue, having to disconnect them to back up etc. I prefer the ones with the built in sway control and Blue Ox Sway Pro is my hitch of choice. With that said, since you already have the hitch, it’s not that expensive to add a second sway control and see if it works for you. Also, check your loading and make sure you have enough weight on the tongue. Another thing I would question/look at since you change trucks, what are your tires on the new truck, if it’s a 1/2 ton, most likely a P rated tire which has a very soft sidewall with a lot of flex which makes the back of the truck feel like it’s wandering.

Interesting about the tires. May be explain the wandering feeling I'm getting. My other truck didn't do that as bad as this one does. i'll have to check that out...

bsmith0404 · 06-02-2022, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abcd

Interesting about the tires. May be explain the wandering feeling I'm getting. My other truck didn't do that as bad as this one does. i'll have to check that out...

It definitely makes a difference, the back of the truck will feel like it’s washing side to side. Then eat way I can explain it is to compare it to driving on a grooved road where the tires want to fallow the grooves. Also, as you can see, many of us with experience towing are not a fan of your hitch. You can definitely make a lot of improvements without going out to buy a dually.

NH_Bulldog · 06-02-2022, 12:37 PM

I recently went from an F150 to an F250. I briefly considered not using a weight distribution hitch at all. I towed our trailer home from storage with the new truck using just a standard drop ball mount. Everything appeared nice and level but I wasn’t happy with the feel. So I reset my existing WD with built in sway control (Ez Lift Trekker) and was glad I did on the first trip out this season. I don’t have it set for all that much weight distribution, but having that integrated sway control is nice!

Abcd · 06-02-2022, 03:55 PM

Here's my hitch and sway bar. Any recommendation on how to do it better would be great

**chuckster57** · 06-02-2022, 05:07 PM

Is the ball pitched towards the trailer? 10 degrees is good.

With the trailer sitting level, unhitched is the top of the ball 2-3” above the trailer receiver?

bsmith0404 · 06-02-2022, 05:19 PM

How to do better? Replace it with any hitch that has. built in sway control. As I mentioned before, Blue Ox Sway Pro is my favorite because of how well it works and how easy it is to adjust to get the best set up for your truck/trailer combination. There are many others that work very wel. The Equalizer E4 is another good one.

**flybouy** · 06-03-2022, 03:40 AM

If your hitch is ser up correctly there are no attachments or additions to "make it better". The simple fact is likely the size of the trailer has exceeded the design limitations of the hitch. The only resolution is to replace it with a more capable/appropriate hitch.

goducks · 06-03-2022, 08:43 AM

Are you setting up the truck and trailer properly?
The front of the truck should be brought back to 0-50% of the unloaded height after hitching.
The TT should be level or at worse slightly nose down.
A properly designed and loaded TT shouldn't need a WDH. Unfortunately RV manufactures are building TT's with lighter tongue weights to accommodate lesser vehicles.

**flybouy** · 06-03-2022, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goducks

Are you setting up the truck and trailer properly?
The front of the truck should be brought back to 0-50% of the unloaded height after hitching.
The TT should be level or at worse slightly nose down.
A properly designed and loaded TT shouldn't need a WDH. Unfortunately RV manufactures are building TT's with lighter tongue weights to accommodate lesser vehicles.

This is reversed from what is true. Many 1/2 ton trucks will have a hitch with a maximum hitch weight od 500 lbs without a WDH. most travel trailers over 25' will have a tongue weight that exceeds 500 lbs. The ONLY way to tow it correctly is with a WDH.

Weldon · 06-06-2022, 09:47 AM

I had that same setup. Then I went to an equalizer 12k and love it. Best money we've spent.

pawpaw · 06-06-2022, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abcd

Interesting about the tires. May be explain the wandering feeling I'm getting. My other truck didn't do that as bad as this one does. i'll have to check that out...

A lot of the F150's come with P rated tires. I'm towing with an Expedition with independent rear suspension and came with P rated Michelins. Put some 10 ply LT rated BFG's and airing them up to 65 psi for towing helped take some of the swaying out a lot. I'm using a 4 point Equalizer WDH and had to tweak it to disperse more weight towards the Expy's front axle. Rides nice at 60-62 mph even on our crappy Louisiana roads. Loading the tow vehicle and the camper plays a big part of taking the wiggle out of these rigs.

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