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07-09-2019, 12:56 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Lamar
Posts: 2
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Hot water issue
A 2007 keystone couger with a 6 gallon hot water heater by Surburban manufacturing company. My issue is one time we have water that flows freely ( hot water) then the next time you turn on the hot water valve it may flow then just stop like a valve was shut off. It may be this way for days then start working again. It does this on city water and with pump. I have drained the tank, played with the valve, I even blew air back into tank form the kitchen hot water connection in the event there was something in the line. no luck
I called the comapny and they said it is NOT the Hot water heater. Check your lines for leaks and your check valve. I looked and do not see a chack valve. There is ONLY one valve to by pass the hot water tank
Any one have or had this issue? and corrected it
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07-09-2019, 12:59 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,395
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They might have meant the overflow valve. It is located on the top of your unit and is operated by lifting a little arm that has a cam type profile that opens the valve. This is often the way you can drain air out of system or check to see if the tank has filled before lighting.
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wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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07-09-2019, 04:23 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Pataskala
Posts: 70
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There is a check valve on the hot water output. It just looks like a plumbing nipple. It is becoming clogged stopping the hot water flow.
Post a picture and the check valve can be point out for you.
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07-09-2019, 08:38 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,899
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You will have the check valve on the hot water out fitting only if you have a water heater bypass valve that turns off cold water to the water heater. If you have a check valve and can reach the back of your water heater, you can replace the check valve. Otherwise, you might have to pull the water heater, which isn't really that hard, depending on where it is located on the rig.
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Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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07-10-2019, 05:59 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,601
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It sure sounds like it might be a faulty check valve. Here's a link to an "entertaining" little video about replacing the check valve; note his water heater has the single bypass valve....
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Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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07-10-2019, 06:30 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,395
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Darn. Didn't know there is a check valve. I assume that crud can keep the thing from working as it should; generally crud will stick it open. This is the way a compressor works as there is a very similar check valve atop the air tank with the little plunger seal and when crud gets into the valve, it sticks open and the air shut electronics blows are like crazy. I was too lazy to cut a new paper gasket last time I took the cylinder head off my compressor and used liquid gasket and bits of it get into that valve from time to time.
In any case, fella said he had a Suburban water heater and it doesn't have the outside drain pictured in this video as there is a rod stuck in the hole for picking up minerals. The Suburban tank needs the rod as it will rust where the one pictured in the video has a fiberglass lining (I think). The guy also bled air out of the hot water line by opening up faucets. On a Suburban, it is a lot easier to open the pressure relief valve on the outside at the top of the water heater. Great bit of education for me; thanks for posting the video Danny.
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wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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07-10-2019, 06:49 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiredgeorge
Darn. Didn't know there is a check valve. I assume that crud can keep the thing from working as it should; generally crud will stick it open. This is the way a compressor works as there is a very similar check valve atop the air tank with the little plunger seal and when crud gets into the valve, it sticks open and the air shut electronics blows are like crazy. I was too lazy to cut a new paper gasket last time I took the cylinder head off my compressor and used liquid gasket and bits of it get into that valve from time to time.
In any case, fella said he had a Suburban water heater and it doesn't have the outside drain pictured in this video as there is a rod stuck in the hole for picking up minerals. The Suburban tank needs the rod as it will rust where the one pictured in the video has a fiberglass lining (I think). The guy also bled air out of the hot water line by opening up faucets. On a Suburban, it is a lot easier to open the pressure relief valve on the outside at the top of the water heater. Great bit of education for me; thanks for posting the video Danny.
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Suburban heaters are designed to operate with an air pocket at the top of the tank to allow for water expansion. Bleeding air from the T&P valve removes this expansion pocket and can cause tank failure. Bleeding air from farthest faucet is the recommended method.
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Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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07-10-2019, 08:41 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Mico, TX
Posts: 7,395
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Thanks for the info. I have bled them when filling with the pressure valve so I guess the education continues.
__________________
wiredgeorge Mico TX
2006 F350 CC 4WD 6.0L
2002 Keystone Cougar 278
2006 GL1800 Roadsmith Trike
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07-10-2019, 01:16 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Lamar
Posts: 2
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Danny,
thank you for the tip and the video. I think it just could be the check valve. When i go get my camper we will see what we find.
Thank all of you for posting tips
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