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Old 04-17-2010, 12:11 PM   #1
NSTS1470
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Need help

I started to dewinterize today. First I filled fresh water tank. I then turned on pump and flushed lines. Pump worked perfectly fine. Next I had to take a removable piece of the cabinet off to get to the bypass valve to fill hot water tank. I then hooked up to city water, filled hot water tank. All faucets were opened again and all cold and hot worked fine. Next I unhooked from city water and refilled the fresh water tank with the water bleach solution to sanitize. I then turned on the pump and thats where the problem started. The pump now does not work correctly. You hear it click on and off. When you open a faucet you get pulsing water. Once water is shut off it continues to pulse about every 20 seconds. All faucets are off, all low drain outside are shut. There appears to be no leaks around hot water tank or any of the faucets or toilet or showers. I also moved the paneling around the water pump. Nothing leaking and the screen filter was perfectly clean. I double checked that the water tank was full, hot water flows fine from all faucets and shower. Also water comes out of pressure relief valve if I open it. The only thing different from when it was working till now was that I unbypassed the hot water tank.
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Old 04-17-2010, 12:29 PM   #2
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Also the hot water tank was heating on propane. i came inside to post the above comment. when I went back outside the pilot light was off and now I cant get it to relight. Yes there is still plenty of propane. Please help, I'm leaving for a 5 day trip tomorrow and need assistance.
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Old 04-17-2010, 01:28 PM   #3
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Does the pump cycle (run) when nothing is turned on --- all taps are closed? Does it come on for a short while then shut off again? If this is happening, you probably have a leak somewhere or air trapped in a line. The pulsating that is happening is often caused by the pump trying to find its preset pressure. The pump is preset to keep a fairly constant pressure and has 2 presets - a low and a high pressure setting. If you are not hooked up to city water and are using your fresh water tank and open a faucet, it is normal for the pump to run for a short time after you turn the tap off. It does this to bring the pressure back up to its preset.
You may have some air trapped in a line somewhere - perhaps to your HW tank when you opened the shutoff valve to fill the tank with water.
Did you check your toilet and seals to make sure it is not losing or leaking water?
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Old 04-17-2010, 01:40 PM   #4
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I think things are ok now. When I first filled the fresh water tank I thought the bypass valve was closed. After the initial flush a turned the valve to what I thought was open. But apparently I was wrong. I only found out because the water had been heated but I wasnt getting anything hot at the faucets. but the water was hot when I hit the relief valve. I turned the bypass valve and presto hot water everywhere. So it must of heated the water that was in the tank for the beginning. Now that I have the valve in the right direction the pump no longer clicks when there is nothing running. When I run water it is much smoother. There is the occasional pulse in the water stream but much improved.
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Old 04-17-2010, 01:51 PM   #5
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Glad to hear that your problem seems to have been solved! You were fortunate in having some remaining water in your HW tank when it was fired up - otherwise, you would have been heating an empty HW tank and would have eventually burnt it out - if you were heating it by 110v. Obviously, it was not completely drained when it was winterized.
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Old 04-17-2010, 02:49 PM   #6
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well actually I must of filled it initially. As I said I thought the bypass was closed originally but it was really open. So when I initially filled and flushed it filled, thankfully. I still think I have a leak somewhere in the back. The pump works perfect for the kitchen and shower. But when I turn on the bathroom sink or outside shower it pulses. I also found a small amount of water under the bathroom sink. But I cant find where it's coming from. I've given up for today. We are heading out camping for the week, thankfully with full hook-ups. It will have to go back to the dealer after that. Hopefully I find no other problems during the trip. I tested all appliances today and all seemed to work. My last question I have for you is about the electric hot water option. I have an electric switch on the panel inside but there is also some switch outside in the hot water tank compartment where the relief valve is located. It has a cotter pin holding it in the off position. Do I need to turn on both switches to use electric. Also is there an indicator that would let me know its working.
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Old 04-17-2010, 03:24 PM   #7
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The switch and cotter pin that you are referring to needs to be turned on when you are using 110v to heat your HW tank. You can leave it in the ON position and the tank will heat using both propane and 110v. This switch is mainly a safety device so that when you do empty your tank, turn the switch to the OFF position and insert the cotter pin, it prevents anyone from flipping the the switch to the ON position and having your empty tank being heated by 110V. If this should occur, your tank will burn out.
I just leave this "safety" switch in the ON position during the season when I am using the RV and if I am plugged in to shore power, the HW tank will operate off 110v. If I am not plugged in to shore power and using propane, it will still work simply by using the interior ON/OFF switch. You dont have to go outside and keep flicking the tank switch on the tank to on and off.
Hope this makes sense to you.
(Check the tightness of the pipe right underneath your bathroom sink. The collar might need to be snugged up a bit. The movement of the TT, some bouncing around, etc. can loosen these connections. It is a good idea to check them every so often to make sure they are haven't become loose.)
Hope your 5 - day trip goes okay.
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Old 04-17-2010, 04:29 PM   #8
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Also ....when you opened the pressure relief valve on the water heater you let out the air pocket that allows for the expansion of the heated water. With no city water and the pump off, open the hot low point drain, then open the T&P valve again .... this will let air back into the water heater. Close the low point drain and your good to go. Many may disagree with this but it is the way RV water heaters are designed to work. Hank
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Old 04-17-2010, 04:35 PM   #9
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So if I have the outside switch on do I also have to flip the interior electric switch for the electric?
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Old 04-17-2010, 07:00 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by NSTS1470 View Post
So if I have the outside switch on do I also have to flip the interior electric switch for the electric?
The HTR switch controls the gas side of the water heater only. With the switch on the water heater on .... the electric element can be controlled with the circuit breaker inside the trailer .... just be sure the heater is full or the element will burn out instantly.
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Old 04-17-2010, 07:46 PM   #11
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On my HW tank, the interior control does not have a separate switch for electricity and gas. There is one switch which is either ON or OFF that controls both 110 and gas....so we may be talking about two different switch set-ups. Yours being a newer unit than mine, perhaps you have one for 110v and another for gas. As I indicated in my earlier post, I do need to have the exterior electrical rocker switch (the one with the cotter pin) at the tank turned on to have it operate on 110v.
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Old 04-18-2010, 05:16 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Festus2 View Post
On my HW tank, the interior control does not have a separate switch for electricity and gas. There is one switch which is either ON or OFF that controls both 110 and gas....so we may be talking about two different switch set-ups. Yours being a newer unit than mine, perhaps you have one for 110v and another for gas. As I indicated in my earlier post, I do need to have the exterior electrical rocker switch (the one with the cotter pin) at the tank turned on to have it operate on 110v.
There is no separate switch on mine either, but with the tank mounted switch on and the circuit breaker on, the tank is heated by electric. The wall panel mounted switch (HTR-PUMP-GRAY-BLACK-etc.) controls the gas heating of the water only. My '96 and '94 trailers were the same also.
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