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Old 09-27-2009, 12:12 PM   #21
Flyguy
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I said in a previous post that a 50 amp breaker would work in your Inverter/Charger, I take that back, if your unit is a WFCO 8900 series then check the last two digits of the model number, they made three types, 8935, 8945, and 8955, the last two digits is the amp rating of the panel, I wouldn't put a 50 amp breaker in anything but an 8955 model, but that panel would probably come with a 50 amp breaker, my guess is that you have the 8935 panel and is the reason why Keystone told you that they would have to change out the unit.
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Old 09-27-2009, 02:52 PM   #22
rvinman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyguy View Post
I said in a previous post that a 50 amp breaker would work in your Inverter/Charger, I take that back, if your unit is a WFCO 8900 series then check the last two digits of the model number, they made three types, 8935, 8945, and 8955, the last two digits is the amp rating of the panel, I wouldn't put a 50 amp breaker in anything but an 8955 model, but that panel would probably come with a 50 amp breaker, my guess is that you have the 8935 panel and is the reason why Keystone told you that they would have to change out the unit.
Also you need to keep in mind that a 50 amp breaker is a double pole breaker and you need 230 volts for a 50 amp service. You need to make sure that the circuit panel is rated for 230 volt and you may need to remove a jumper across the buss, along with upgrading the power cord to a heavier cord.
Changing the main breaker will not hurt anything downline as the branch circuit breakers protect those circuits.

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Old 10-30-2009, 12:20 PM   #23
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Here's some info that I found on the web regarding the RV 50 amp service:

250 Volt, 50 Amp AC Wiring

50 amp RV service can deliver approximately 12,500 watts (125 volts X 50 amps X 2) to the RV. Some people believe that the 50 amp RV receptacle is a "special" part. This is absolutely not true. In fact, it is a commonly available 50 amp, 250 volt receptacle. Unlike the 125 volt, 30 amp Travel Trailer receptacles, this one is used in many different 250 volt applications. It carries part number 14-50R. The matching plug is a number 14-50P.
There is a lot of misunderstanding about how MOST 50 Amp RV's are wired. Some of the larger bus type diesel pushers are all electric and in fact, do have 250 volt appliances in them. In that case, both sides of the 50 amp circuit are used to power those devices (just like your home) and those coaches MUST have 50 amp, 250V service in order to run things like the 250V stove, AC and the electric water heater. In the case of the rest of the 50 amp RV's, 250 volts is still supplied to the coach just like your home electrical service but typically one side of the line is used for all the 125 volt appliances except the rear AC and the other side is used for the rear AC only. The service coming into the RV is still 50 amps, 250 volts. Please note that all of the 50 amp RV's (at least in the US) use the SAME receptacle wired in the SAME way. If they didn't, they couldn't all plug into the same outlets at an RV park.

I would add to this that 50 amp breakers come in single pole as well as double pole and are available at most home supply retailers.
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:43 PM   #24
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30-50-amp

Just a few more things need to be added,are phases single and double which both are found with both amperes and how it's pulled off the box. But you'll see most are single phase with the higher amperage. You'll see 10 gauge wire in behind your 30amp service when wired correctly,but NOT a lot of heavier gauge on long pulls through the camp ground. This is why you'll see most of the bigger rigs close to buildings or the camp ground is new and up dated. I've was at one that I had paid for 50 amp service and kept tripping the breaker,owner came out to replace it and while he removed the breaker and returned to the shop to get another breaker I noticed 10 gauge wire which would explain why it would trip on start up loads.
Which brings up the point on the outlet/differences this is the keep you from trying to run appliances with the wrong amperages- think of a toaster thin wire, high amperage,w/high current draw then glowing wire.The same is true with any and all wire. The set up is to idiot proof the user,keep you from melting your trailer.
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Old 10-30-2009, 03:55 PM   #25
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Exclamation 30-50amp breakers

I was reading a post,changing a breaker is not a big deal,BUT keeping the same amperages IS. I see this all the time in homes when the home owner "thinks" they know what their doing. Remember you can over load a wire and it doesn't start a fire when it falls within the start up load for the wire,when you change the amperage the wire over heats, this is when you get a fire.
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Old 10-31-2009, 04:51 AM   #26
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Correct! It should be noted that according to the NEC, that breaker is there to protect the wire and not the device that plugs into it.
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