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Old 02-15-2020, 08:09 AM   #1
TG10894
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Rear Panel Delaminated and Buckling

See update at this post - panel on back is free floating so the issue had taken a different turn.

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=41316


My rear panel is nearly completely delaminated. (ie, springy to the touch and not attached to the underlying wall.) Really didn't know such a thing happened until I started researching on RV repairs. Apparently, the leak or flaw started near the top and has caused the back panel to separate. I bought the trailer used and only noticed a minor buckle near the top edge when I bought it. Thought it was ok. Wrong! No obvious damage inside, but now I have the issue I'm not sure what to do. I have two problems
1) I am half way through a 3 month jaunt and wonder if I need to do temporary repairs on the top edge to keep the back panel from coming "off" while driving.
2) I do lots of my own repairs, but not sure if it would be wise to try this when I get home. No garage, no scaffolding, etc.

Any thoughts on integrity for remainder of trip and temp repairs, or best solution for final fix would be helpful. Any experience on cost would help enlighten and likely further depress me.
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Old 02-15-2020, 08:34 AM   #2
roadglide
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We had very light rain here in the desert yesterday . I looked up and seen small wave on top back I got up top and felt the wave and found a very small area where water leaked in . I alway have tube of dicor on hand for emergencies. I repaired the Leak the role buckle has disappeared. Before delivery I made the dealer reseal the back trim but he stop 4 inches short of the seam .
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Old 02-15-2020, 09:03 AM   #3
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From what I can see, you have a problem that's not going to correct itself without some major work. Can you get thru the 3 month stint? Probably. Will it take major work to repair? I'm sure, but it will depend on how far you want to go with repairs and the ultimate end product you want.

Those sealed edges look like they should have been inspected and sealed long ago, and, water has penetrated under the back panel. Looks like the damage is done.

For the short term, buy some tubes of Dicor self leveling sealant along with non self leveling. Clean up that top seam (which looks the best) and liberally cover with self leveling Dicor. Clean up that seam underneath as best you can and fill it up with non self leveling. Make sure the surfaces are clean or the Dicor won't want to seal.

Once you've done that make sure you inspect every inch of your sealed areas very closely. Clean and reseal anything that looks suspect. Once done you should be good to last through your 3 month stint unless you've incurred further, unfound damage. After the 3 months you should hopefully find that you have no further leaks/damage and then you can determine if you want to go to the trouble/expense to repair the damage to the back wall or just "let it ride".

This is yet another thread about damage caused by uninspected/maintained roofs/seals. As has been stated on this forum and others, it is extremely important (and that is an understatement) that those sealed surfaces are inspected at least every 3 months if not monthly. Even the tiniest of pinholes can leak water and cause damage that isn't found until it becomes substantial. Those warnings aren't made to give an owner something "to do" but to keep an owner from finding something went terribly wrong down the road because it was too much trouble to inspect the roof.
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Old 02-15-2020, 02:26 PM   #4
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That looks like another silicone job because the shining absolute ebbed into the rubber
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Old 02-15-2020, 03:37 PM   #5
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If you have a RV supply near you you may want to get a roll of Eternabond tape which is available in different widths then cover the entire seam and then put Dicor on the tape edges. Follow directions on the tape!
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Old 02-15-2020, 03:45 PM   #6
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Delamination repairs are expensive. It most often begins with leaks in the roof. One of the reasons I went with a lifetime roof on this RV. I had a Gulfstream Sedona that had it. Fortunately the insurance company bought it.
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Old 02-15-2020, 06:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourdough View Post
From what I can see, you have a problem that's not going to correct itself without some major work. Can you get thru the 3 month stint? Probably. Will it take major work to repair? I'm sure, but it will depend on how far you want to go with repairs and the ultimate end product you want.

Those sealed edges look like they should have been inspected and sealed long ago, and, water has penetrated under the back panel. Looks like the damage is done.

For the short term, buy some tubes of Dicor self leveling sealant along with non self leveling. Clean up that top seam (which looks the best) and liberally cover with self leveling Dicor. Clean up that seam underneath as best you can and fill it up with non self leveling. Make sure the surfaces are clean or the Dicor won't want to seal.

Once you've done that make sure you inspect every inch of your sealed areas very closely. Clean and reseal anything that looks suspect. Once done you should be good to last through your 3 month stint unless you've incurred further, unfound damage. After the 3 months you should hopefully find that you have no further leaks/damage and then you can determine if you want to go to the trouble/expense to repair the damage to the back wall or just "let it ride".

This is yet another thread about damage caused by uninspected/maintained roofs/seals. As has been stated on this forum and others, it is extremely important (and that is an understatement) that those sealed surfaces are inspected at least every 3 months if not monthly. Even the tiniest of pinholes can leak water and cause damage that isn't found until it becomes substantial. Those warnings aren't made to give an owner something "to do" but to keep an owner from finding something went terribly wrong down the road because it was too much trouble to inspect the roof.
Thanks for the detailed reply. I have been all over that roof, and frequently, and still don't know where the leak started. Now that I know more about what to look for, I believe the previous owners had been trying to find the leak based on the amount of excess sealant on the back seam. I suspect the back was delaminated before I bought it. The top seam is starting to bulge out just from sagging down and swelling in the plywood/insulation material in the wall. I thought about the non-leveling dicor, but someone else mentioned the eternabond tape. That would help but not sure if it would ever come off again if I try to repair it later.
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Old 02-15-2020, 06:48 PM   #8
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Eternabond has specific uses and it's great for them. The problem is the "eterna" part. You have to know what you are covering and have a plan for accessing anything you cover - it's permanent. I use, and have used it. I do not cover screw strips, removable transition strips etc. in an effort to make them permanent; they aren't and won't be for the long haul and Eternabond will not make it any different - it will just cause problems in the future. IMO you use the right product for the situation at hand to repair it leaving all the options the manufacturer left themselves, and you, to repair them properly. Dicor sealant provides an excellent sealant property and the ability to address specific areas vs "cover it forever and hope nothing happens"....to me. Again, JMO.
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Old 02-16-2020, 05:11 PM   #9
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I agree with Danny's comments about Eternabond tape. Any "permanent application of Eternabond" on a "part with screws that might need to be removed" is a "fatal flaw waiting for a crisis to happen"... When it does, your workload to repair the problem just doubled or tripled in manhours and expense.

Eternabond is a great product WHEN USED PROPERLY and is a "repairman's nightmare" when "slapped on anything as a quick fix"..... Don't use it for anything that isn't "permanent".....
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