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Old 10-04-2019, 04:05 PM   #21
Audionut
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The ones I used and that others on the forum have used are HalTec N-1600 Ford F Series Truck Valve. They're available at almost any internet tire/wheel site and usually are about $4 each. Shipping is almost as much as the valves, so expect to pay about $25 or so for 4 delivered to your house.

Here's one link, cheap price for the valve stems but a killer on the shipping...
https://yourtireshopsupply.com/produ...-valve-han1600


Is this one of the good metal valve stems that doesn't leak or are they all susceptible to that?

And is that one that is long enough to fit aluminum wheels like we have?

TIA
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Old 10-04-2019, 08:56 PM   #22
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Is this one of the good metal valve stems that doesn't leak or are they all susceptible to that?

And is that one that is long enough to fit aluminum wheels like we have?

TIA
Those ones work great. My old cougar had wheels that looked like yours. They went right in and I didn't have any issues in the few years I had it before trading the camper.
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Old 10-05-2019, 04:18 AM   #23
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they are rated for 80psi, run them at that or very near that. I assume the wheels will been able to accept these tires.


good safety margin
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Old 10-05-2019, 07:11 AM   #24
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I ordered my Radial Trail HDs from WalMart.com and had them shipped to the store. I had just purchased new wheels to handle the LRE tires, so I took the wheels and had the tires mounted. Wal Mart had metal valve stems on hand that fit and everything has been rosy for just over 2 years now. I have lost a total of maybe 10 psi over the 2 years I have had them, including 2 winters.
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Old 10-05-2019, 08:21 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
The ones I used and that others on the forum have used are HalTec N-1600 Ford F Series Truck Valve. They're available at almost any internet tire/wheel site and usually are about $4 each. Shipping is almost as much as the valves, so expect to pay about $25 or so for 4 delivered to your house.

Here's one link, cheap price for the valve stems but a killer on the shipping...
https://yourtireshopsupply.com/produ...-valve-han1600
I've used the same stems on two sets of ST tires on my coach. NO issues; no air loss. Would use these again and again.
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Old 10-05-2019, 08:23 AM   #26
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I ordered my Radial Trail HDs from WalMart.com and had them shipped to the store. I had just purchased new wheels to handle the LRE tires, so I took the wheels and had the tires mounted. Wal Mart had metal valve stems on hand that fit and everything has been rosy for just over 2 years now. I have lost a total of maybe 10 psi over the 2 years I have had them, including 2 winters.
Did the exact same thing but used N-1600 Fseries stems instead. The wheels I purchased off Recstuff.com. Walmart had the best pricing on the tires.
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Old 10-05-2019, 09:48 AM   #27
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When I bought new trailer tires in August, WalMart had the best pricing on 225 75R15 LRE Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires that I could find. Plus, their mount/balance ($15) was/is cheaper than anywhere around here. Our store didn't have the steel valve stems to fit the Sendell wheels, but I reused the ones that were already installed, so I really didn't need new valve stems.
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Old 10-05-2019, 10:18 AM   #28
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When I bought new trailer tires in August, WalMart had the best pricing on 225 75R15 LRE Carlisle Radial Trail HD tires that I could find. Plus, their mount/balance ($15) was/is cheaper than anywhere around here. Our store didn't have the steel valve stems to fit the Sendell wheels, but I reused the ones that were already installed, so I really didn't need new valve stems.
Was WalMart able to lug centric balance ?
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Old 10-05-2019, 10:27 AM   #29
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Was WalMart able to lug centric balance ?
Most chain retailers don't have the equipment (plate or wheel balancer adapters) for lug centric balancing. I checked about 10 different places near me and only found 1 that had the equipment. As far as I know, most will not.
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Old 10-05-2019, 10:43 AM   #30
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Most chain retailers don't have the equipment (plate or wheel balancer adapters) for lug centric balancing. I checked about 10 different places near me and only found 1 that had the equipment. As far as I know, most will not.
Thanks, I'm well aware of the rarity in finding lug centric balancing. By quoting John's post I was asking John this question. John had it done a few weeks ago so I'm curious if they now offer it or was he just lumping services together as that's how most places list the service.
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Old 10-05-2019, 11:42 AM   #31
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On our newly purchased used 2015 KEYSTONE COUGAR 30RLI with ST225/75R15D china bomb original tires on 15x6 wheels, we run them at max recommended 65 lbs psi.

It is overdue for new tires and I’m thinking of going up to a E rated tire due to it is a 36’ TT, 2 axle, dry wt is 7720, and GVWR is 9500lbs.

So when you go up from a D tire with max 65 lbs psi, to an E tire with max 80 lbs psi I was thinking you should run them at the recommended max of 80lbs, however I just spoke with a tire dealer who said to not necessarily run 80lbs. It depends on your GVWR. So do you all agree with that or would you just run 80lbs in them?

And one thing I need to do is weigh my rig to see what our total weight is when it is loaded, but I find it hard to imagine we could be over the GVWR loading it up with just normal living stuff.
I'm a little late entering this post so I'm just going to say; what I post is the way it's supposed to be addressed.

According to your certification label, your OE tires are ST225/75R15D, the "D" represents Load Range D or LRD. When you use a replacement sized ST225/75R15E you have changed nothing except the maximum load capacity. However, there are safety precautions you should insure are in place. The valve stems must be pressure rated for the 80 PSI necessary to gain full advantage of the extra load capacity (steel ones are recommended). The wheels must have the capability to support 80 PSI inflation pressures.

Regardless of what others might say, your OE tires were installed under the guidance of FMVSS. Those standards & the USTMA support the vehicle certified recommended cold inflation pressures to be the very minimum requirement. Therefore, the replacements fully meet that requirement depicted on the certification label, because the LRD & LRE both provide identical load capacities at 65 PSI. To gain the advantage of the LRE you have the option to use optional inflation pressures from 66-80 PSI.

The reference is a TRA standardized load inflation chart containing your tire size.

https://fifthwheelst.com/documents/C...T-Modified.pdf
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:46 AM   #32
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I'm a little late entering this post so I'm just going to say; what I post is the way it's supposed to be addressed.

According to your certification label, your OE tires are ST225/75R15D, the "D" represents Load Range D or LRD. When you use a replacement sized ST225/75R15E you have changed nothing except the maximum load capacity. However, there are safety precautions you should insure are in place. The valve stems must be pressure rated for the 80 PSI necessary to gain full advantage of the extra load capacity (steel ones are recommended). The wheels must have the capability to support 80 PSI inflation pressures.

Regardless of what others might say, your OE tires were installed under the guidance of FMVSS. Those standards & the USTMA support the vehicle certified recommended cold inflation pressures to be the very minimum requirement. Therefore, the replacements fully meet that requirement depicted on the certification label, because the LRD & LRE both provide identical load capacities at 65 PSI. To gain the advantage of the LRE you have the option to use optional inflation pressures from 66-80 PSI.

The reference is a TRA standardized load inflation chart containing your tire size.

https://fifthwheelst.com/documents/C...T-Modified.pdf

Not that you would want to, but it appears the LRE tires could be run at 65 psi without any damage to the tire? However, it's load capacity would not exceed that of LRD tires if you ran them only at 65 psi.

And you would only get the higher load capacity out of them when at higher psi, (66-80)? And wheel and valve stem must be rated for 80 psi.

I then wonder if it is really recommended to go to a LRE from LRD tire for our 36’ TT, 2 axle, dry wt 7720, and GVWR is 9500 lbs camper?

I would think even if you ran a LRE at 65 psi it would be a more durable tire with it's extra plys than the LRD? And, if so, that may be worth a little more 'peace of mind' knowing it would be less susceptible to blowouts on the road?
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Old 10-07-2019, 03:02 AM   #33
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Not that you would want to, but it appears the LRE tires could be run at 65 psi without any damage to the tire? However, it's load capacity would not exceed that of LRD tires if you ran them only at 65 psi.

And you would only get the higher load capacity out of them when at higher psi, (66-80)? And wheel and valve stem must be rated for 80 psi.

I then wonder if it is really recommended to go to a LRE from LRD tire for our 36’ TT, 2 axle, dry wt 7720, and GVWR is 9500 lbs camper?

I would think even if you ran a LRE at 65 psi it would be a more durable tire with it's extra plys than the LRD? And, if so, that may be worth a little more 'peace of mind' knowing it would be less susceptible to blowouts on the road?
Durability is a ponderance. Load capacity is a measurement of the load capacity a tire can support at given inflation values.

When replacing RV trailer tires with tires having a higher load capacity the owner is usually looking for more load capacity reserves. Personally, I want at least 15% reserve capacity above the vehicle certified GAWRs.

Hypothetical 4400# vehicle certified axle = 4400 X 1.15 = 5060 / 2 = 2530. On a Tire chart for the ST225/75R15 LRE I would use 70 PSI (2620#) just to insure a little more stiffness in the sidewalls.
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Old 10-07-2019, 08:44 AM   #34
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I suppose everyone has an opinion about tire load ratings and the "appropriate" tire pressure to run.

Here's mine (for what it's worth):

If we consider a 225 75R15 LRD and a 225 75R19 LRE tire, side by side, the sidewalls on the LRE tire are heavier and thicker. (probably the polyester belts more than extra rubber).

When the two tires are inflated to 65 PSI, they both support 2540 lbs (per the load chart). They both have the same amount of sidewall flexing at that air pressure. I question whether the thicker sidewalls of the LRE tire would have the capacity to dissipate heat as rapidly as the LRD (thinner sidewall).

What I suspect (haven't been able to prove it) without extensive "tire engineering research) is that the LRE tire will run hotter at 65 PSI carrying the same load as the LRD tire at the same pressure and load. Increasing the LRE tire to 80 PSI reduces the sidewall flexing and I'd suspect, reduces the tire temperature if it's carrying the same 2540 pound load.

My theory (again, FWIW) is that the LRE tire will have a lower running temperature and likely a longer lifespan before sidewall breakdown if run at 80 PSI because of less sidewall flexing which causes increased tire temperature.

So, since tire lifespan is more related to time since manufacture rather than tread wear, to obtain "maximum load capacity and minimum sidewall flexing" operating a LRE tire at the maximum sidewall pressure will provide the best tire reliability as well as the best longevity while providing the maximum load capacity which results in an increased lifespan before tire compromise and reduced performance.

As I said, "Just another opinion" not based in "tire engineering research" but in "user induced understanding of what I believe"..... YMMV (and probably will)
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:26 AM   #35
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Durability is a ponderance. Load capacity is a measurement of the load capacity a tire can support at given inflation values.

When replacing RV trailer tires with tires having a higher load capacity the owner is usually looking for more load capacity reserves. Personally, I want at least 15% reserve capacity above the vehicle certified GAWRs.

Hypothetical 4400# vehicle certified axle = 4400 X 1.15 = 5060 / 2 = 2530. On a Tire chart for the ST225/75R15 LRE I would use 70 PSI (2620#) just to insure a little more stiffness in the sidewalls.

From what I have read, I think getting the LRE instead of the LRD tires would be a good idea and keeping them at 70-80 psi (depending on GVWR) would be the way to go. And like I said above, it should be a more durable tire with it's extra plys than the LRD. And also from what I've read the Carlisle Radial Trail HD should be a good tire to buy?
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Old 10-07-2019, 11:49 AM   #36
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From what I have read, I think getting the LRE instead of the LRD tires would be a good idea and keeping them at 70-80 psi (depending on GVWR) would be the way to go. And like I said above, it should be a more durable tire with it's extra plys than the LRD. And also from what I've read the Carlisle Radial Trail HD should be a good tire to buy?
All modern ST tires are either 2 ply or 3 ply with a "rating" that equals 6, 8 or 10 ply in the old system. The difference in today's tires in LRD and LRE is more the thickness of the polyester cord used to weave the sidewall "ply" rather than the number of "thin polyester cord layers" used in the ancient "add two more ply layers" construction. GONE are the days of buying a 8 ply or a 10 ply tire. In reality you're buying a 2 ply (or in some cases a 3 ply) tire that has the sidewall strength that equals the old ply rating standard.
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Old 10-07-2019, 06:12 PM   #37
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Did the exact same thing but used N-1600 Fseries stems instead. The wheels I purchased off Recstuff.com. Walmart had the best pricing on the tires.
Yep, got my wheels off Recstuff.com as well. And yep, also had the best tire pricing.
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Old 10-08-2019, 06:48 AM   #38
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If we consider a 225 75R15 LRD and a 225 75R19 LRE tire, side by side, the sidewalls on the LRE tire are heavier and thicker. (probably the polyester belts more than extra rubber).

When the two tires are inflated to 65 PSI, they both support 2540 lbs (per the load chart). They both have the same amount of sidewall flexing at that air pressure. I question whether the thicker sidewalls of the LRE tire would have the capacity to dissipate heat as rapidly as the LRD (thinner sidewall).
If the side wall is thicker, it would make more sense to me that there would be less flexing on that tire which would result in a little less heat. but it is not rely a factor as that would be a small factor compared to the het from plain old rolling resistance. as for heat dissipation I think the fastest method of removing heat would be from the rim its self acting as a big heat sink. an aluminum rim would even dissipate heat faster, so I am not sure if worrying about the thickness of the sidewall preventing heat dissipation is something we should worry about.

I know all things equal I would always take the thicker sidewall as in theory it should last longer and resist blow out longer.

Steve
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Old 10-08-2019, 07:26 AM   #39
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If the side wall is thicker, it would make more sense to me that there would be less flexing on that tire which would result in a little less heat. but it is not rely a factor as that would be a small factor compared to the het from plain old rolling resistance. as for heat dissipation I think the fastest method of removing heat would be from the rim its self acting as a big heat sink. an aluminum rim would even dissipate heat faster, so I am not sure if worrying about the thickness of the sidewall preventing heat dissipation is something we should worry about.

I know all things equal I would always take the thicker sidewall as in theory it should last longer and resist blow out longer.

Steve
Steve,

In "my imagination of how it works", if you install the LRE tire on a wheel, put it on an axle end that's carrying 2000 pounds, the sidewall will flex more with 65 PSI than it will with 80 PSI. That increased flexing (movement) will create more friction within the rubber and cause more heat to be generated at 65 PSI. At least that's the way I understand how tires work.

I completely agree with you, "all things equal, I would always take the thicker sidewall..."
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Old 10-08-2019, 07:47 AM   #40
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Steve,

In "my imagination of how it works", if you install the LRE tire on a wheel, put it on an axle end that's carrying 2000 pounds, the sidewall will flex more with 65 PSI than it will with 80 PSI. That increased flexing (movement) will create more friction within the rubber and cause more heat to be generated at 65 PSI. At least that's the way I understand how tires work.

I completely agree with you, "all things equal, I would always take the thicker sidewall..."
John that's how I understand it as well.
I think some people don't understand that the increased sidewall rating is a function of how much air pressure the tire can withstand, with reserves built in of course. I try to explain it this way, take an unmounted tire and stand on the bead. The tire sidewall will collapse, mount it and fill it with the max inflation air pressure then sit on the tire, the sidewall will not deflect. The more air pressure up the max inflation rating the less the sidewall will flex. Now this CAN cause a passenger tire to wear the center of the tread more but we are not talking about a passenger tire.
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