Towing setup questions

[jack65]

Let me start with I'm still a RV newbie as last year was my first real year of camping with a small trailer. I've camped with tents all my life until three years ago. So bear with me on some questions you experts may consider stupid questions.

My current setup:
Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 4x4
5.7L V8 Hemi MDS VVT 450+ HP Engine w/upgrades
8-Spd Auto 8HP70 Transmission
392 Rear gear ratio
Trailer Tow Mirrors and Brake group
Trailer brake control
Heavy Duty transmission & engine cooling system
Flowmaster exhaust system, K&N air filter system.

GCWR / 14,100lbs - 10,150lbs GVWR / 6,350lbs
Payload: 1,410lbs Max Trailer WGT 8,950lbs
Quad Cab® 6'4" box 10,400-lB max tow capacity 1,830-lB Payload capacity
****************
Towing:
CLASS 4 TRAILER HITCH WITH 2" RECEIVER #14374
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/14374
My WDH/sway control system
HAUL-MASTER
10,000 Lb. Capacity Weight-Distributing Hitch
w/HAUL-MASTER
Trailer Sway Control Kit

2015 Starcraft AR-ONE 14RB Specs:
Dry Weight 2,390 lbs.
Payload Capacity 810 lbs.
GVWR 3,200 lbs.
Hitch Weight 255 lbs.
Dimensions
Length 16.5 ft. (198 in.)
Width 7.08 ft. (85 in.)
Height 8.42 ft. (101 in.)
Interior Height 6.08 ft. (73 in.)
Wheelbase 11.25 ft. (135 in.)

Now for the questions
Last year we got up to the lake with no problems, however before backing in took off the Trailer Sway Control Kit as manual said to, then after backing in, when I went to remove the spring/chains, we had a heck of a time trying to get them off. My wife almost cut her finger off helping with the bar as it snapped off really quick. Almost had to take her down to the doctors but got her patched up.
I looked at the manual and it said the vehicle and trailer should be level.
Well it's not level up there. So maybe I should do it on the level area where you check in. Also manual said (didn't catch it at the time) the front of trailer and rear of vehicle should be raised up 3" so it will make mounting or unmounting easier and safer?

When we went to leave, we parked at level spot where you sign in and after a half hour of trying, could NOT get the springs/chains on the hooks??? Ended up driving home without the whole system.
So what did I do wrong?

Also do I really need the
HAUL-MASTER
Trailer Sway Control Kit
That one is easy to take on and off, but they say if you forget to take it off while backing in you can damage the rear of the vehicle?

After waiting to see what is said here, I'm going to hook it all up tomorrow and do a test run to Walmart parking lot to practice backing in... I'm not very good at that yet...

[Urbish]

With a trailer that size/weight, I do not think you would need a WDH at all. Some sway control would be a good idea though. I have a different WDH, but I use the tongue jack on the TT to raise the rear of my tow vehicle a few inches to make engaging/disengaging the WDH a little less exciting. If your system is that taut with that light of a trailer, you may be doing too much weight distributing.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by Urbish

With a trailer that size/weight, I do not think you would need a WDH at all. Some sway control would be a good idea though. I have a different WDH, but I use the tongue jack on the TT to raise the rear of my tow vehicle a few inches to make engaging/disengaging the WDH a little less exciting. If your system is that taut with that light of a trailer, you may be doing too much weight distributing.

I had that professionally setup at the dealer, so I assumed it was setup right.
I think both the trailer and pickup level is correct? And it was.


However if I can skip this towing setup and tow the trailer as is, that would be great, a lot less hassle. I don't speed and when I towed it home 150 miles from the high mountain lake (the first 30 miles is real windy with road dips, potholes etc., I had no sway problems... but I drove considerably under the speed limit the whole time. I'm going to hook up the system tomorrow and see how hard it is... I might not use it.

Or if I use the HAUL-MASTER
10,000 Lb. Capacity Weight-Distributing Hitch,
can I skip the
w/HAUL-MASTER
Trailer Sway Control Kit

Dealer said I needed both. But of course they wanted the sale.

Next question,
Also manual said (didn't catch it at the time) the front of trailer and rear of vehicle should be raised up 3" so it will make mounting or unmounting easier and safer?

So using the tongue jack on the TT to raise the rear of my tow vehicle a few inches is OK, not strain the trailer hitch any?

[LHaven]

What the recommendation is saying is to hook the trailer to your hitch ball, then raise the tongue some with the tongue jack to take the strain off the WDH assembly. Then you can latch up the WDH springs without all the tension, which will come back when you retract the tongue jack. And do it in the opposite order when un-hitching.

[travelin texans]

You may or may not "need" the sway control, but you have it so I'd use it, better to have it & not need it than to need it & not have it.
And as previously advised raise the tongue with the tongue jack to easily connect/disconnect the bars.

[markcee]

Originally Posted by jack65

I had that professionally setup at the dealer, so I assumed it was setup right.
I think both the trailer and pickup level is correct? And it was.


However if I can skip this towing setup and tow the trailer as is, that would be great, a lot less hassle. I don't speed and when I towed it home 150 miles from the high mountain lake (the first 30 miles is real windy with road dips, potholes etc., I had no sway problems... but I drove considerably under the speed limit the whole time. I'm going to hook up the system tomorrow and see how hard it is... I might not use it.

Or if I use the HAUL-MASTER
10,000 Lb. Capacity Weight-Distributing Hitch,
can I skip the
w/HAUL-MASTER
Trailer Sway Control Kit

Dealer said I needed both. But of course they wanted the sale.

Next question,
Also manual said (didn't catch it at the time) the front of trailer and rear of vehicle should be raised up 3" so it will make mounting or unmounting easier and safer?

So using the tongue jack on the TT to raise the rear of my tow vehicle a few inches is OK, not strain the trailer hitch any?

Good advice. Only thing I can add is you better watch that flag going under bridges!

[jack65]

Originally Posted by LHaven

What the recommendation is saying is to hook the trailer to your hitch ball, then raise the tongue some with the tongue jack to take the strain off the WDH assembly. Then you can latch up the WDH springs without all the tension, which will come back when you retract the tongue jack. And do it in the opposite order when un-hitching.

And do it in the opposite order when un-hitching
Aren't you suppose to raise it again at the tongue jack before un-hitching???

[sourdough]

Yes, raise it again before unhitching.

As far as the use of the hitch; IMO anytime you have a high slab sided RV of any size behind a TV you should use a sway control. I will qualify that with yes, it can be done with a trailer your size, and folks do as I saw a few days ago with one pulled by a Grand Cherokee, but for me I try to plan for "what if" and not "it's OK today".

The type of hitch you have causes problems ("attached sway arms") in daily operation in certain scenarios. Had one like that for about 4 years and hated it every minute due to some of the issues you mention and....those little add on sway bars don't do a thing IMO.

The problem with severe sway is it's not really predictable; an unseen gust of wind or whipping, a semi passing with that unseen big wall of swirling air or even that hotshot truck pulling 1/2 a pumpjack or maybe a church van - any of them given the right circumstances can put a trailer into a tizzy.....right now. Folks generally pull them down, and I have, but some don't. I figure I'll just do everything up front to minimize or prevent that unseen, "oh no" moment from happening.

Yes, you have to pull those type sway bars off before backing or on unlevel ground; other types do not require that. The Haul Master is an entry level, no frills type of hitch that comes with some "irritations". As far as chain removal, are you using the tongue jack and didn't it come with some sort of handle to leverage that chain for connection?

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by jack65

And do it in the opposite order when un-hitching
Aren't you suppose to raise it again at the tongue jack before un-hitching???

Yes. Opposite order: raise tongue, unlatch WDH, lower tongue some, unhitch ball.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Yes, raise it again before unhitching.

As far as the use of the hitch; IMO anytime you have a high slab sided RV of any size behind a TV you should use a sway control. I will qualify that with yes, it can be done with a trailer your size, and folks do as I saw a few days ago with one pulled by a Grand Cherokee, but for me I try to plan for "what if" and not "it's OK today".

The type of hitch you have causes problems ("attached sway arms") in daily operation in certain scenarios. Had one like that for about 4 years and hated it every minute due to some of the issues you mention and....those little add on sway bars don't do a thing IMO.

The problem with severe sway is it's not really predictable; an unseen gust of wind or whipping, a semi passing with that unseen big wall of swirling air or even that hotshot truck pulling 1/2 a pumpjack or maybe a church van - any of them given the right circumstances can put a trailer into a tizzy.....right now. Folks generally pull them down, and I have, but some don't. I figure I'll just do everything up front to minimize or prevent that unseen, "oh no" moment from happening.

Yes, you have to pull those type sway bars off before backing or on unlevel ground; other types do not require that. The Haul Master is an entry level, no frills type of hitch that comes with some "irritations". As far as chain removal, are you using the tongue jack and didn't it come with some sort of handle to leverage that chain for connection?

Okay, it sounds like I wasted my $$$ on the HAUL-MASTER
Trailer Sway Control Kit. The dealer insisted I add that. I won't be going back there. They stuck it to to me on other stuff last year too, knowing I was a "newbie". I don't like that.

I plan to use the tongue jack, but didn't know about it last year.
Yes, I had a lever, but it was really hard to get it off and my wife hurt her finger helping me.

Also when I tried putting the L bars in the hitch area, no matter what I did, it wouldn't go in (or up) and I think I even raised the trailer / truck too, but not sure... it's been a year.

[notanlines]

In keeping with the sway control question, yes, I also believe you should use it, mainly because it is a very short trailer, SINGLE axle, and large air dam you're pushing. As was said, better safe than sorry.

[dutchmensport]

No, you did not waste your money on anything with your set up. Always use sway control, and yes, remove when backing up.

As stated above, in order to install or remove the weight distribution bars, hitch the truck and trailer. Then raise the trailer and truck with the tongue jack as high as possible and then you will be able to just slip the chains on and with one finger flip the catches up. You will not need the cheater bar or have to struggle. Once the bars and chains are in place, crank the jack back down and the bars will tension themselves. Always use the same number of chain links though. You should never have to struggle to flip those catches up.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by notanlines

In keeping with the sway control question, yes, I also believe you should use it, mainly because it is a very short trailer, SINGLE axle, and large air dam you're pushing. As was said, better safe than sorry.

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

No, you did not waste your money on anything with your set up. Always use sway control, and yes, remove when backing up.

You guys talking about this or the main setup?

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by jack65

You guys talking about this or the main setup?

I was not quoted in the previous post but yes, the picture is of the actual sway "control" device(s). The weight distribution hitch itself provides literally no sway control until those outboard friction bars are attached. In my few years of trying to use them (tried using one then went to 2) I found them problematic and ineffective.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by sourdough

I was not quoted in the previous post but yes, the picture is of the actual sway "control" device(s). The weight distribution hitch itself provides literally no sway control until those outboard friction bars are attached. In my few years of trying to use them (tried using one then went to 2) I found them problematic and ineffective.

Yeah, I recall and responded to
....those little add on sway bars don't do a thing IMO.

and I said: Okay, it sounds like I wasted my $$$ on the HAUL-MASTER
Trailer Sway Control Kit. The dealer insisted I add that. I won't be going back there. They stuck it to to me on other stuff last year too, knowing I was a "newbie". I don't like that.

So I don't need to use them? What do I do about the sway part since they say the WDS doesn't cover that?

If I read correctly, these two members say to use them?


Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
In keeping with the sway control question, yes, I also believe you should use it, mainly because it is a very short trailer, SINGLE axle, and large air dam you're pushing. As was said, better safe than sorry.

Originally Posted by dutchmensport View Post
No, you did not waste your money on anything with your set up. Always use sway control, and yes, remove when backing up.

[Rick]

A WD bar tip (if you don't already know). Don't try to lift the locking tabs to remove the WD bars. Once the WD chains are unhooked from the trailer, just rotate the bars (to the outside and going towards the front of the TV) about 3/4 ways and they'll drop right out.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by jack65

Yeah, I recall and responded to
....those little add on sway bars don't do a thing IMO.

and I said: Okay, it sounds like I wasted my $$$ on the HAUL-MASTER
Trailer Sway Control Kit. The dealer insisted I add that. I won't be going back there. They stuck it to to me on other stuff last year too, knowing I was a "newbie". I don't like that.

So I don't need to use them? What do I do about the sway part since they say the WDS doesn't cover that?

If I read correctly, these two members say to use them?


Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
In keeping with the sway control question, yes, I also believe you should use it, mainly because it is a very short trailer, SINGLE axle, and large air dam you're pushing. As was said, better safe than sorry.

Originally Posted by dutchmensport View Post
No, you did not waste your money on anything with your set up. Always use sway control, and yes, remove when backing up.

I didn't see this before responding to your PM but I think we're all on the same page.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by jack65

...
and I said: Okay, it sounds like I wasted my $$$ on the HAUL-MASTER
Trailer Sway Control Kit. The dealer insisted I add that. I won't be going back there. They stuck it to to me on other stuff last year too, knowing I was a "newbie". I don't like that.

So I don't need to use them? What do I do about the sway part since they say the WDS doesn't cover that?

... Always use sway control, and yes, remove when backing up.

First, HAUL-MASTER is a Harbor Freight brand name, so unless you "bought your trailer from Harbor Freight, the dealer didn't make any money from "sticking it to you" on sway control. As for "other stuff last year", no comment. If I were a dealer and you were buying from me, I'd strongly urge you to buy and use a WD hitch with built in sway control. If you balked at spending that much money, before I just walked away, I'd urge you to "at least go to HF and buy their "cheap crap" which is better than nothing. I'd urge you to do that, trying to get you to compromise on "something to help you tow more safely" rather than letting you off the lot with nothing....

Do you "need sway control"? YES. Any "single axle box" being towed behind a vehicle will be more impacted by sidewinds and bow-wave from passing vehicles than a double axle trailer. Depending on the weight/weight distribution/hitch weight of the trailer when compared to the weight, axle loading and capacity of the tow vehicle, sway problems can range from "relatively insignificant" (with a heavy tow vehicle) to "a serious issue, especially in an emergency" on lighter vehicles such as your truck, which has a relatively light rear axle weight that's made even lighter by using a weight distribution hitch to "shift weight fore/aft from the rear loading.

So, yes, sway control is a good idea "before you find yourself in an emergency rather than afterwards when you'll wish you'd have had it"....

As for the HAUL-MASTER sway control, it's better than nothing, but not as good as a more expensive and sophisticated system.... When compared to other types of sway control systems, would I buy a HAUL-MASTER? NO, but that doesn't mean it's totally ineffective. To me, it means that it's not as good as and I wouldn't waste my money on that type of sway control because I'd prefer a more effective system. That doesn't mean it won't work, just that it won't work as good as ....

IMHO, it's better to use what you have than to leave it in the garage and tow with nothing.

[jack65]

Originally Posted by Rick

A WD bar tip (if you don't already know). Don't try to lift the locking tabs to remove the WD bars. Once the WD chains are unhooked from the trailer, just rotate the bars (to the outside and going towards the front of the TV) about 3/4 ways and they'll drop right out.

Dumb question... what is TV? the vehicle?
Ah, I assume putting them back in reverse is the way to get them back in.
I didn't know that trying to put the bars back on at the campsite and didn't have the manual with me either, (and misplaced).

I will find out how it goes this afternoon as I'm doing a test run to Walmart to practice my backing in.

Thanks for the info!!!

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by jack65

Dumb question... what is TV? the vehicle?
Ah, I assume putting them back in reverse is the way to get them back in.
I didn't know that trying to put the bars back on at the campsite and didn't have the manual with me either, (and misplaced).

I will find out how it goes this afternoon as I'm doing a test run to Walmart to practice my backing in.

Thanks for the info!!!

Just take your time. Note which direction of the steering wheel makes the trailer go in what direction. Many use the bottom of the wheel so when you turn it a particular direction the back of the trailer goes that way as well, ie; hand on the bottom of the wheel and turn to L (your hand would rotate upward on the wheel), the back of your trailer is going to go to the L as well. If your hands are on the top of the wheel it is opposite. Put yourself past the entry to the selected "slot" and a ways out from it. It will take a bit for the trailer to start to turn into it. With a trailer that short once it starts it's liable to go quick. A longer one just seems to lumber along forever. Good Luck.