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Old 07-02-2021, 12:02 PM   #1
BookPaul74
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Top vent for refrigerator?

Last winter I stayed in southern Arizona too late and it was getting into the mid 90’s. The refrigerator was not working all that good, I could hear the fan working. So I thought I would mount several of the small box fans for computer equipment in the top vent and add a switch.

But when I went investigating I found this. It has me baffled why they would do this. Is this normal or should I take my oscillating saw and cut it out? What’s the reason they would block 2/3 of the vent. The panel is added because there is already the panel for the wall.

I plan to mount 3 or 4 of the fans on an aluminum strap and wire a switch in for manual control. I put them in the roof vent on my last fifth wheel that was in Arizona, they were on all the time except a few winter months.
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Old 07-02-2021, 02:14 PM   #2
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Do not cut it. The top fins need that baffle so the air flow is through the fins. You can trim the top of the baffle so it’s even with the top of the fins but that’s about it.
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Old 07-02-2021, 03:56 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Do not cut it. The top fins need that baffle so the air flow is through the fins. You can trim the top of the baffle so it’s even with the top of the fins but that’s about it.
Thanks. I’ve heard about getting airflow through the vents. This is the first one I’ve had with the refrigerator in the slide out. I’m still going to make and mount several fans to draw the air out.
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Old 07-02-2021, 04:03 PM   #4
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Try adding a couple down in the lower access area.
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Old 07-03-2021, 07:39 AM   #5
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Try adding a couple down in the lower access area.
I was going to put them up top to suck the air out but I could put them in the bottom to blow. 😁 I ordered 4 of them they are 4.72” wide and each one moves 40 CFM.
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Old 07-08-2021, 02:06 PM   #6
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So this is what I did. I removed just enough of the baffle for the fans to fit. Each fan is 40 CFM, so it will be pulling 160 CFM total. I’ll finish the wiring tomorrow, waiting on a pigtail for the switch.
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Old 07-08-2021, 05:27 PM   #7
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I added fans with a manual switch, but I added two at the top and one at the bottom.
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:04 PM   #8
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I added fans with a manual switch, but I added two at the top and one at the bottom.
I’ll keep an eye on it and add more if needed. Thinking it will draw the air in.
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Old 07-09-2021, 04:00 AM   #9
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My old 5er had the fridge in the slideout and had problems on hot days keeping it cool. I found this mod and it worked great .It is for a truck camper but the idea is still the same https://youtu.be/0wVTP89-Btg
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Old 07-09-2021, 05:00 AM   #10
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My old 5er had the fridge in the slideout and had problems on hot days keeping it cool. I found this mod and it worked great .It is for a truck camper but the idea is still the same https://youtu.be/0wVTP89-Btg
Not knowing how much space was behind the panel that was in the opening I was not sure how much space I had to work with. I’ve ran the 120mm computer fans in the roof vent for years in my other fifth wheel. I put in a switch with indicator light that tell when they are on.

My 4 fans can move 180 CFM. “Only at 800 RPM generate enormous airflow up to 76 CFM with low noise level at only 18dBA.” The Blue ones used in the video will move 152 CFM.

I kept threatening to install radiator fans for a small car. Now that I know how much room is behind the panel and if my mod doesn’t work I can step up and make it bigger. I also found the thermal switch is mounted to the top right fin on the back of the refrigerator. I have one left from the install on my last fifth wheel.

Thanks for the video and the idea. 👍
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Old 07-09-2021, 06:02 PM   #11
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I find even with added fans in back when the temps get around 90 or more these type fridges hardly get the job done.
Since I have a lithium battery and off grind solar I've been looking into ditching the absorption fridge and installing a compressor fridge. I already have a portable model that runs off 12v or 120ac. The only problem I can only use it for a freezer or fridge but not both. It's a chest type so it makes a great freezer but not so great fridge due to the convenience of it being a chest type.
I haven't liked the absorption type on this and my previous trailers. They are just okay most of the times.
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Old 07-09-2021, 06:29 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by fjr vfr View Post
I find even with added fans in back when the temps get around 90 or more these type fridges hardly get the job done.
Since I have a lithium battery and off grind solar I've been looking into ditching the absorption fridge and installing a compressor fridge. I already have a portable model that runs off 12v or 120ac. The only problem I can only use it for a freezer or fridge but not both. It's a chest type so it makes a great freezer but not so great fridge due to the convenience of it being a chest type.
I haven't liked the absorption type on this and my previous trailers. They are just okay most of the times.
Have you looked at JC refrigeration?
https://jc-refrigeration.com/

We have installed 2 120VAC on Norcold 2118’s. Get cold in a hurry, haven’t heard any complaints yet.
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Old 07-09-2021, 06:35 PM   #13
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I find this discussion interesting, we have a Dometic RM2862, that has a replacement improved cooling unit from RV Cooling unit warehouse.We are currently in central Oregon and outside temps running 90 to 100 during the day, and refer is working fine. DW defrosted it the refer the other afternoon, and within two hours the refer had dropped to 39 degrees from 62 degrees.
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Old 07-09-2021, 08:05 PM   #14
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Have you looked at JC refrigeration?
https://jc-refrigeration.com/

We have installed 2 120VAC on Norcold 2118’s. Get cold in a hurry, haven’t heard any complaints yet.
I have and that might be the next step. We’ll see how this works out first.
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Old 07-10-2021, 06:34 PM   #15
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I've looked at the JC refrigeration units for my Dometic DM2662 unit. I like the design but held back so far because it doesn't increase my capacity at all and expensive without increased volume.
I don't have much space to go bigger. I've read where some people have installed residential apartment size fridges. Even though they don't get more than a few years out of them, they are cheap to replace every few years.
Still doing research.
I'll check out RV Cooling unit warehouse. Haven't investigated them yet.
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Old 07-10-2021, 06:38 PM   #16
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Perfect timing?
Was just posted on youtube today.
Hope it sheds some light.
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Old 07-10-2021, 07:25 PM   #17
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Perfect timing?
Was just posted on youtube today.
Hope it sheds some light.
That’s what I did to my Alfa because it vented through the roof. I noticed on the slide out ones there’s very little space behind the refrigerator.
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Old 07-10-2021, 07:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by fjr vfr View Post
I've looked at the JC refrigeration units for my Dometic DM2662 unit. I like the design but held back so far because it doesn't increase my capacity at all and expensive without increased volume.
I don't have much space to go bigger. I've read where some people have installed residential apartment size fridges. Even though they don't get more than a few years out of them, they are cheap to replace every few years.
Still doing research.
I'll check out RV Cooling unit warehouse. Haven't investigated them yet.
I had more open space in my Alfa and had a dorm refrigerator in the rear of the living room between the recliners. I had a Sub Zero the same size that was only a freezer and it was above the washer/dryer combo. I still have both and thought about mounting the refrigerator at the end of the counter in the Cougar.

If I continue to have cooling problems with the Dometic 2852 then I’m looking for a replacement compressor style. From past experience, I replaced two of them in the Alfa at about $1,800.00 each time. I now have a much larger solar system and battery bank.
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