Hideout 208BHDS power problems

KevinGwin · 06-09-2021, 07:39 AM

Went out to camper last night, plugged into shore power, the only thing that works is the microwave. I’m assuming my converter probably went bad, does anyone know where this is located on this camper? Thanks

wiredgeorge · 06-09-2021, 08:05 AM

Your microwave has a separate circuit in your circuit breaker panel probably located with your converter. This circuit breaker working means the main 30A circuit breaker is working. Did you have any power to AC outlets? Did you check? Did you have lights in the cabin? These as 12VDC and if they are not working and you are plugged into shore power that means trouble shooting first the battery/battery cut off switch and then checking voltage (AC) feeding the converter. As far as where your power panel is, I have no clue. I would also suggest you put your camper year, make and model in a signature as well as the same for your tow vehicle as it will make answers have more context. Signature can be made by clicking the UserCP at the top left of every page in the black band.

KevinGwin · 06-09-2021, 08:13 AM

It’s a 2018 Keystone Hideout 308BHDS. None of the lights worked. Nothing 12v was coming on. I didn’t check the outlets yet, I will when I get home. I went to the front and made sure the battery switch was on. I have 2 battery’s and tried moving the selector to each battery and nothing. So I’m assuming my battery’s weren’t charging while it’s been plugged in and that’s why I thought converter

wiredgeorge · 06-09-2021, 08:24 AM

Not sure that batteries have a selector switch. Sounds more like a battery issue now that there is a bit more info. Suggest you take a picture of the batteries and the switch and post (use the Go Advanced function). Are these the original batteries and if so can you get them out and have them load tested? What "shore power" was the trailer plugged into?

KevinGwin · 06-09-2021, 09:00 AM

The previous owner adding another battery and an aftermarket selector switch. So at least one of the batteries isn’t original. I will look at them when I get home. Does that mean both batteries may have gone bad at the same time

JDDilly · 06-09-2021, 09:09 AM

You should replace both batteries together. If one is weak, it can bring down the new one.

I don't understand the need for the selector switch. By running both together, you increase the amp hours. Also, when driving or connected to shore power, you will only charge the battery that is currently active. As you figure out your issue, I would remove the switch.

**sourdough** · 06-09-2021, 09:17 AM

I agree with Jim. The only thing I can see that the selector switch would do for you is cause problems. Also don't replace one battery, replace them both. The older, weaker battery will kill the new one...btdt.

KevinGwin · 06-09-2021, 09:19 AM

I leave the switch on the option to with both batteries at the same time… never really touch it. So, the consensus is my batteries and not converter?

JDDilly · 06-09-2021, 09:25 AM

Pull your batteries and have them load tested. That will eliminate one of the variables.

If you need to replace the batteries, You may want to consider 2 6 volt golf cart batteries. the most common RV/Marine 12 volt batteries are also made for starting, they have cranking amps listed. You don't need the cranking power, you need amp hours. In most cases, 2 6 volt will give you more amp hours then 2 12 volt RV/Marine batteries. Somethng more to think about!

wiredgeorge · 06-09-2021, 01:31 PM

If the switch can select one battery or the other, how could the switch being in a combo position where both batteries were tapped for 12VDC provide 12VDC unless wired properly? The switch is strange at best. Suggest you have a look at this article:
https://www.rvwithtito.com/articles/...-battery-bank/

**flybouy** · 06-09-2021, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

If the switch can select one battery or the other, how could the switch being in a combo position where both batteries were tapped for 12VDC provide 12VDC unless wired properly? The switch is strange at best. Suggest you have a look at this article:
https://www.rvwithtito.com/articles/...-battery-bank/

He has two 12 v batteries connected to a marine battery selector switch. They have batt #1, Batt #2, both and off positions. Very common for a marine battery switch.

wiredgeorge · 06-09-2021, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flybouy

He has two 12 v batteries connected to a marine battery selector switch. They have batt #1, Batt #2, both and off positions. Very common for a marine battery switch.

Would these batteries have to be wired together correctly for them to put 12V on the line rather than 24V? I don't do marine stuff so forgive my above normal amount of ignorance. Why would someone put this type battery 1 or 2 or 1-2 switch in?

jasin1 · 06-09-2021, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevinGwin

The previous owner adding another battery and an aftermarket selector switch. So at least one of the batteries isn’t original. I will look at them when I get home. Does that mean both batteries may have gone bad at the same time

The selector switch may be a ..battery 1..battery 2..and both.. almost every boat has some form of this switch.. you can still combine both batteries but if you were concerned about both going dead you cold leave on battery 1 or battery 2.. that way you theoretically have one fully charged battery to bring in slides or for whatever.. when switched to “both” you would be able to charge both batteries at once. ..maybe previous owner was a boater as well.
I have had the selector switch go bad before and it will seem like a dead or dying battery. The rivets break and the metal disks do not make good contact..edit should have read all the posts

KevinGwin · 06-11-2021, 01:45 PM

So, I hooked the batteries up to a charger, within a minute all DC power was working. Let the batteries charge over night…. Everything is fine now. Since it was always on shore power since we got gone from
Camping last, I found the converter. I’m reading 13.4 VDC coming off it. I’m gonna let the camper sit for awhile and check the battery drain, but it seems to me converter is just fine and the batteries are most likely the culprit. Interesting they charged perfectly fine on my charger tho….. Thanks!

KevinGwin · 07-02-2021, 10:25 AM

I went ahead and got two brand new batteries. I’m just gonna run 1 battery at a time, that way I always have a full battery for sure and they can’t drain each other. Camper has been sitting for 2 days, plugged into shore power and it’s drained 1/3 according the RV panel. Is it possible my converter isn’t charging even tho it’s putting put 13 some bolts DC? Maybe an in-line fuse between that and the battery?

Javi · 07-02-2021, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevinGwin

I went ahead and got two brand new batteries. I’m just gonna run 1 battery at a time, that way I always have a full battery for sure and they can’t drain each other. Camper has been sitting for 2 days, plugged into shore power and it’s drained 1/3 according the RV panel. Is it possible my converter isn’t charging even tho it’s putting put 13 some bolts DC? Maybe an in-line fuse between that and the battery?

So many questions...

First thing is to determine if you're actually getting the charge from the converter to the battery...

KevinGwin · 07-02-2021, 06:58 PM

Definitely am not. But why not?

Javi · 07-02-2021, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevinGwin

Definitely am not. But why not?

See my pm.....

**flybouy** · 07-03-2021, 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KevinGwin

Definitely am not. But why not?

My first inclination would be to check the "previously owner installed battery switch". Trace it out and make sure it's wired and functioning correctly. Then isolate the converter from the battery and check it's output. It would be very frustrating to learn that a second converter (the one you replace) failed "just like the other one did" at the cost of 2 new batteries.

KevinGwin · 07-03-2021, 07:01 AM

I’ve owned the 2018 Camper since 2019, with no problems with this set up. I guess the switch may go bad. I’m gonna run to Walmart later to get a new battery for my multimeter. I know I’m getting DC output from the converter. I guess next step is to pull wires off the battery and from the selector switch, and check for 13 VDC?

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