2012 F250 Super Duty 5th Mods & Upgrades

[audio1der]

Originally Posted by SteveC7010

I am stumped on an electrical issue at the moment so any advice or information would be greatly appreciated. Here's the situation: The truck came with four 12vdc outlets; all cigarette lighter style and all are always hot. None of them are ignition/accessory controlled. I'd like to move at least one or two of them to ignition/accessory control. The truck is also equipped with the upfitter switches. These are four accessory switches that can be used as needed for things like spotlights, emergency lighting, etc. However, all four of them are ignition/accessory controlled which means I can't leave a switch on and emergency lights running if I pull the key. So I'd like to move a couple of them over to always hot. All of my emergency lighting is LED and can be left running for hours without running down a battery.

I'll probably work on getting the two way radios installed and working early this week. The GMRS radio may be of some interest to folks here since it can also be used to communicate with those bubble-pack FRS (Family Radio Service) walkie-talkies that every one favors these day.

For the switched outlets which you want to convert to always hot, use a dual-output Bosch relay. Use the factory switched wire and ground for turn-on and ground; all you need is a constant +12V wire to the relay, and then wire the dual outputs of the relay in place of their existing switched leads, and you're set.
I love these relays; because they're rated for 30A and have 2 output posts it cuts down on wire and provides lots of flexibility.
http://www.efihardware.com/products/...ut-fits-H-RELB
Hope this helps! Love the build log.

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by audio1der

For the switched outlets which you want to convert to always hot, use a dual-output Bosch relay. Use the factory switched wire and ground for turn-on and ground; all you need is a constant +12V wire to the relay, and then wire the dual outputs of the relay in place of their existing switched leads, and you're set.
I love these relays; because they're rated for 30A and have 2 output posts it cuts down on wire and provides lots of flexibility.
http://www.efihardware.com/products/...ut-fits-H-RELB
Hope this helps! Love the build log.

That's a great solution and thanks.

I found one that is a bit simpler on one of the Ford forums. The relays for the upfitter switches are run/accessory controlled. The power points are always hot. There is a power point right next to the upfitter switches. By simply switching the hot leads from one to the other and putting a smaller fuse in the power point fuse socket, all four upfitter switches can now be used when the key is not in the vehicle. The power point becomes run/accessory controlled. Total investment is a few inches of wire and some butt splices.

[ohiocougar]

Very Nice Truck!!!

[SteveC7010]

All the parts for installing my JVC HD radio arrived last week and I was able to build most of the installation on the bench. The Ford factory radio (see earlier pics above) is a double DIN sized unit while the JVC is a single DIN. I used to the second DIN area to fabricate and install a plain ABS face backed by a pair of steel angle brackets for strength. I bought a small aftermarket mount for the Garmin GPS and modified the standard mount for the SkyFi II XM control head.

Earlier in this thread, someone wondered why I didn't just buy a new all-in-one unit. Well, the answer is pretty simple; I already have all the major items here. My only expense for this install was the DIN adapter, Ford wiring adapter, GPS mount, and antenna adapter. Total cost was about $35. It would have been a lot more expensive to purchase a new unit plus I'd have to drop the headliner to install a GPS/satellite antenna on the roof. The GPS/satellite antenna alone would have cost more than all the stuff I needed to do this conversion.

When installed, nothing on the dashboard is blocked by anything, and it is all easily reached from either seat. The Garmin and the XM are both on swiveling ball mounts. This pic is shot from approximately driver's eye level:

[SteveC7010]

This particular Super Duty came with four 12vdc power outlets; one in the dash by the driver's right knee, one in the dash by the passenger's left leg, one in the center console's storage compartment, and one in the backside of the console. They are all the standard cigarette lighter style and are more or less very useful.

But a lot of personal electronics are now charged via USB connections and power including our iPhones and Kindles. Blue Sea makes a great USB port that is very high quality and easy to install. I removed the regular power outlet from the small dash panel and replaced it with the Blue Sea unit. It fit perfectly and snugly in the existing panel opening with no modification except to remove a couple of very small tabs. I moved the power supply for this outlet from always hot to run/accessory so that it will be off when the truck is off. The USB unit constantly uses a bit of electricity to convert 12vdc down to 5vdc so it's a good idea to make sure the unit is not hot when the truck is shut down.


For those that are interested, the Blue Sea part number is 1016. It can be found at marine supply stores. Online, I buy my Blue Sea items on Ebay. I found this one for about $23 including shipping which is about the best price I have ever seen on this item.

[sagebel]

Have you looked under the back seat on the driver side? My truck has a 12v plug there as well.

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by sagebel

Have you looked under the back seat on the driver side? My truck has a 12v plug there as well.

Nothing there but your truck is a Crew Cab so it may get an extra outlet or two.

[SteveC7010]

For those with Ford diesels, Ford now builds in the capability to add a high rpm idle to your vehicle. If your truck has the upfitter switches, it's a bit easier, but not a difficult job without them.

SEIC means Stationary Elevated Idle Control. The capability is built in to your PCM. Lots of commercial applications such as generators, compressors, PTO's, etc. for these trucks require high idle. All it takes is the addition of a resistor across two wires and a switched low amperage 12vdc source to turn the high idle on and off.

Why SEIC? Well, the short version is that it prevents all kinds of problems during extended idle periods. Ford recommends 1200 RPM as optimal. It keeps up airflow and temps for the DEF injectors on the 6.7's. And it is ideal for cooling down your rig after towing. It also prevents "wet stack" in most any diesel.

I ended up short of time to take some pictures this morning, but I did get the high idle mod done. Here is a link to an extensive thread about adding the SEIC mod to your truck which explains everything much better than I can. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...ml#post9494561

If you think you might want to do this mod, I have a stock of 20K resistors left over. 20K is the value that will give you a 1200 RPM high idle. Let me know via PM and I can mail you the resistor.

I also have a single page instruction sheet on the mod. Drop me a PM and I'll send you several pages of PDF info and the instruction sheet.

If you don't have the upfitter switches, let me know and I can give you the info on a convenient 5 amp run/accessory source right next to the wiring for the SEIC.

Living up here in the northeast, we tend to want to warm up our cars and trucks before driving them in cold weather. The high idle helps a diesel warm up faster and safer.

[sagebel]

I built my own and used a potentiometer so that I can adjust the idle speed. I'll see if I can find some pics of the install if you want them.

BTW, Looks like you will be getting some snow soon.

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by sagebel

I built my own and used a potentiometer so that I can adjust the idle speed. I'll see if I can find some pics of the install if you want them.

BTW, Looks like you will be getting some snow soon.

Over on the Ford Truck Enthusiasts forum, there's a detailed thread with lots of pics of both types, fixed resistor and potentiometer. I opted for the fixed resistor for now, but the pot is a great addition.

We got a couple of inches over night, but it turned to rain around daybreak. It's all gone now.

[Htfiremedic]

Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by Htfiremedic

Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03

There may be hope for you. Ford has long offered PTO capability on both the E and F series chassis. There may be a PTO high idle available for your '03. Our '06 E-450 ambulance has it. Check over on the FTE forum. There are lots of owners of trucks of that age that have done all kinds of neat mods and upgrades to their trucks. If there isn't built in one that you just have to hook up, I bet those guys and girls over there can point you at an easy-to-install unit of some kind.

[SteveC7010]

No tow vehicle is complete without some customized touches just for appearence's sake.
I think the tailgate of the Super Duty looks a little plain with just a Ford oval and the words SUPER DUTY
stamped in the metal.


I found an outfit that makes stick-on lettering that fills those stamped letters with whatever color
one might want. They offer them for the tailgate, the front grille, and the dashboard. The 4x4 emblems
on the sides of my truck are gold so I ordered letters in gold reflective for the tailgate. The reflective
aspect gives an extra bit of safety to the rear at night, too.

I took the tailgate off so I could work in a warm room and then let the whole thing dry overnight
as the letters are applied using a wet method. Here's what it looks like on the bench:


The company I bought these from is called Stang Customs. They sell through Ebay for the most part
and their prices are darned reasonable. I got two complete sets of letters for this job for $16.47.
They were in the mailbox in just a week's time. Search for a seller named fuzedmods there.

[sagebel]

Originally Posted by Htfiremedic

Nice work, I wish that it would work with an '03

'03 7.3 no. Ford made an auxilary idle controller (AIC) that could be used to high idle the 7.3 and maybe the 6.0 (I have only owned the 7.3 and 6.7). Most of the aftermarket custom performance chips can also have a high idle setting added to them.

'03 6.0 yes. The wiring is different but it can be done. Search one of the Ford diesel specific forums and you should find plenty of write ups.

[SD10]

Steve,
REAL nice truck! I have the same truck with the Triton V10 two years older. I'm looking at purchasing (maybe) the Cougar 330RBK. Just curious, how do my numbers compare to yours? and how does your F250 handle your 326? I think the 330 might put me up there in payload, but I'm still in the process of figuring that out .

TRUCK: 2010 Ford F250 XLT SRW super cab SB with Triton V10 (with camper pkg)
-type E tires with single 3640 lb. load capacity
-combined cargo weight max: 2573 lbs. (sticker inside driver door)
-GVW: 6223 lbs.
-GVWR: 9400 lbs.
-FGAWR: 5200 lbs.
-RGAWR: 6100 lbs.
-Max loaded trailer weight: 14400 lbs. (according to Ford trailer towing guide)
-GCWR: 21000 lbs.

TRAILER: 2013 Cougar 330RBK
-Hitch (pin) weight: 1865 lbs.
-Dry weight: approx. 10000 lbs.
-GVW: 12265 lbs. (according to dealer documentation)

[SteveC7010]

Can tell how it tows yet. We bought it after we sent the trailer to storage for the winter.

The SD has the 10K GVWR package and is rated to tow 16K.

The 326MKS is 9920 dry, 2045 capacity and a pin weight of 1565.

[deeddy0502]

very nice truck indeed! are you going to add a tuner to that truck or just run it stock?

I have had a few ford quad cab trucks and rather than using lubricants like wd 40 or lithium spray grease i have found that good ole pledge sprayed and wiped down on all the door seals from time to time works very well too.

[Jables]

Nice truck! For those that doubt the Ford trans in these is built big enough, keep in mind that they are actually 20lbs heavier than an Allison. Lots of steel should equate to fewer broken parts.

[Bob Landry]

Nice truck. I'm loving my new F250.

[SteveC7010]

It's been a bit since I posted any additional progress on the truck, but I've got more done here and there. First, the interior. Here's what it looks like now with the satellite receiver, GPS unit, two-way VHF radio, and rear view camera system all installed in their final locations:

Surprisingly, the VHF radio control head on top of the dash doesn't block the view at all. I had a hard time finding a place to mount the microphone so it had to go down low above the gas pedal. The GPS and SiriusXM were already highlighted in an earlier post.

I purchased the camera system from Rear View Safety, Inc. It came with everything needed for a normal install, but I ordered the license plate mounting bracket extra to be sure the camera could see the road even with the tailgate down. The 7" monitor is visible just forward of the cup holders in the center console in the pic above. It can handle two more cameras and/or a DVR signal. Here's the camera all mounted and working well:


Finally, I was very disappointed with the performance of the back up lights on this truck. They use the 921 bulb, same as the lights inside our trailers, and place them in very small housings. They give very little light out the back at night. I finally found an outstanding solution which also lets me have some additional emergency response lighting to the rear as well. They are dual color LED "hideaways" which are designed to be mounted right into turn signal, back up light, or headlight housings. In normal mode, I have very bright and efficient white back up lights now. In emergency mode, they flash a wig-wag (left and right) pattern with an amber color. (Also available in red, blue, and green.) If I put the truck in reverse with the emergency lights going, the white mode over rides the flashing amber. Here's a shot of the lights that I took in a very dark driveway at night:


Even the garage behind the boat is lit up enough to be clearly visible at night. I am very pleased with this capability. Also, I tested the stock 921 bulbs against the LED units for heat issues. After 5 minutes of continuous on, the 921's had heated up the taillight housing so that it was hot to the touch. The LED's were barely warmer than room temperature. I can safely run the emergency lighting for long periods of time without heat worries because they are only on 50% of the time.

Just replacing the 921 incandescent bulbs with one of the 921 LED units that we've discussed a lot does not produce real satisfactory results. The back up light housing is so small on the Super Duty's that you can not fit in one of the taller 921 LED's so you end up with no more lumens to show for the effort. I am not saying that I would not do that if I did not need the emergency lights, but rather more to just let you know that you won't get much improvement in lighting by switching to LED 921's. They'll be a whiter white and run a lot cooler.