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Old 10-16-2011, 04:13 PM   #1
yankees1
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Generator for 2012 Passport

Anyone know what size generator I would need to run electrical/ appliances and air?
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:26 PM   #2
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At least a 4500 running watts generator, Check with camping world, champion brand I have read nothing but good reviews on this brand
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:32 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by yankees1 View Post
Anyone know what size generator I would need to run electrical/ appliances and air?
There are a bunch of things to consider about this. First, the Honda eu2000i has been something of a standard against which other camping generators have been compared to for many years. It will run a 13K BTU A/C and most any other 110vac appliance in a TT, but probably not at the same time. The start-up draw needed to get the A/C going is near the max for the eu2000. But other than this limitation, it has been pretty much a near perfect generator for campers. It is one of the quietest generators on the market and highly reliable.

But for many of us with Keystone products, the eu2000i may not work so well. The 15K BTU A/C puts a real strain on this model. It won't power two A/C's at the same time. If you stir in the microwave oven and DW's hair dryer, you are beyond the capacity of the 2000.

Yamaha has a 2,600 watt model out that is supposed to handle the 15K A/C's just fine, but again, it won't power dual A/C's.

Larger capacity generators are heavy and can get pricey. And noise level is a huge consideration, or should be, to all of us. I have never understood why someone can buy a $50,000 RV and a $45,000 tow vehicle, and then use a $200 generator that is excessively loud and annoying to the neighbors many campsites away.

So, the answer to your question isn't a simple one. If you have the 13K A/C, you should be able to use a 2,000 watt generator quite well. But there are so many variables that it is hard to give you a clear answer. You will want to tally up the wattage needs of things you have to figure what will work for you.

We have the Honda eu2000 and are very happy with it. I am not sure it will run our A/C if needed since we upgraded to the Cougar, but it will take care of anything else we might ask of it quite well.
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:19 PM   #4
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There are a number of RV'ers who rely on the Honda 2000i as their means to provide electrical power for camping "off the grid" Some have been fortunate enough to be able to power their air conditioner with this generator, but a larger number have been disappointed that the generator won't power their A/C and, in fact, is only capable of providing power for the RV only when strict power managment is exercised and the A/C is not used.

Please see the attached website for information provided by Dometic for their air conditioners.

http://www.dometic.com/eae64ded-8f1f...7940a08a.fodoc

In it, they state that the "minimum" generator to power one 13.5K A/C is 3,500 watts and to power two 13.5K A/C's is 5,000 watts.

The normal compressor run amps for the 13.5K A/C is 11.4 and the fan motor requires 2.5 Amps. Starting requirements are greater. When broken down into watts, that comes out to:

compressor run: 1368 watts
fan run: 300 watts

Total for A/C 1668 watts.

When you plug any RV into a 120 VAC source, you not only provide power to the specific appliance that's turned on, but you also provide power to the convertor. This electrical device provides 12 VDC power to the RV lights, refrigerator, water pump, and other voltage drains (radio, TV amp, propane/CO monitor, etc) as well as to the battery charger circuits in the converter. It is impossible to assign an amperage drain on this device, but usually it's at least 2 amps which equates to about 240 watts.

So, total demand on the generator would be approximately 1900 watts (or more) as soon as the A/C is running. Remember, it takes significantly more wattage to start the compressor and the fan motor.

According to Honda, the EU2000i is rated at 2000 watts max and 1600 watts continuous. In the owner's manual it states in a caution: "damage may occur if the maximum wattage is exceeded and damage could occur if the continuous wattage rating is exceeded for more than 20 minutes.

What that means is that some people have been fortunate to find that their Honda EU2000i generators will run their A/C in "good conditions" and some have been fortunate enough to not have problems using this generator in these conditions. However, Dometic recommends a 3500 watt generator and Honda cautions against using it to provide power for the nominal demand of the A/C in a typical RV setting.

As suggested in an earlier post, at least a 3500 watt generator and if you have two A/C's a 5000 watt generator.

As for noise, that part is personal preference and camping situations. Often people camp by themselves and the only thing to be irritated by the noise of a generator is miles and miles of "nothing"..... Others camp in "mobile surburbia" where the neighbor is less than 10 feet away. In that case, maybe a "quiet generator" is a "good neighbor device" Only you can decide.
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:24 PM   #5
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As Steve pointed out in his post, your question - as phrased - is not easy to answer. I would sit down and take a look at your "power/wattage" requirements. Do you plan on running 1 or 2 A/C's? Are they 13K or 15K? What other appliances do you plan on using? Do you want to be able to use any and all appliances at the same time as the A/C is running? What kind of a budget do you have? You can buy cheaper generators but they are usually noisier ---- are you and your fellow campers prepared to tolerate a large, noisy generator? Do you have space to carry more than 1 generator? Are you able to handle a large, heavy generator? You will have to do some "homework" to determine exactly what you want and when you want to run and then figure out what you will need to make that happen.
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:26 PM   #6
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For the record, I have a Champion 4000 watt generator, rated at 3500 watts continuous. It is rated at 68dB and when placed in the bed of my truck with the tail gate up parked on the street side of the trailer, we barely hear it on the awning side of the RV. We routinely camp in desolate places where the nearest neighbor is usually at lease 5-600 feet away, often there is nobody for at least half a mile, so noise is only a consideration for us, since there's nobody else around.

Others on this forum have the same generator and I've not heard of anyone having problems with it. When you look at Honda for $900 and then the Honda companion at $1200 and the connecting cable for $150, the Champion at $279 seems an economic compromise worth consideration.

Just my opinion, other's may disagree......
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Old 10-17-2011, 08:28 AM   #7
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I have a Honda EU3000i that I purchased in 2002. If it died tomorrow I would get another one just like it. I towed a Forest River Wildcat with a 13.5k A/C for over 70,000 miles and now use the same generator in my Copper Canyon with a 15k A/C. Never had any problems. I have to do a little power management. For example I can not run the microwave or electric hot water heater AND the A/C at the same time. But we have camped many times over night with the Honda powering the A/C, fridge, normal lights, TVs, etc with no problems.

I did have trouble once at very high elevations where the Honda overloaded a couple of times because of reduced engine power at that elevation. I simply switched the fridge to propane (that gives you about 350 spare watts). And if that is not enough, flip the circuit breaker to the power convertor so it does not draw power until you get back to lower elevations. The battery will last a very long time with no lights on and the tow vehicle is also adding some current to the battery.

I don't have photos on my website yet, but I added a power transfer relay box and wiring to my Copper Canyon which makes using the generator very easy. I run it all day long when camping in the summer as I like to run the A/C all the time to keep the camper cool.

Simply saying I have been very happy with my Honda. Here is how I store it in my truck:

Generator Cover
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:27 AM   #8
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bdaniel, The EU3000 is a good compromise generator, (big enough most of the time). As you say, sometimes it won't run the A/C and other power drains need to be managed to get it to work. High altitude "kills" generator power (actually it decreases the gas engine power and it can't turn the generator well enough to develop the power) and almost any generator will suffer from being underpowered at altitude and even in extremely hot temperatures. As the compressor load increases so does the demand for electricity to start it. It's not uncommon in the heat of summer to need upwards of 4500 watts just to get the compressor to unlock and turn. The "easy start" capacitor system helps by storing electricity and then releasing it to "help the generator" initially start to turn the compressor. In larger A/C's, that power requirement goes up dramatically. The 2000 watt generators just can't keep up. Dometic recommends a generator even larger than yours to power their 13.5K A/C's and even they won't run the reefer, water heater and microwave at the same time.

Imagine that if you have problems powering your RV with 3000 watts how difficult it would be to have only 2000 watts (actually 1600 watts continuous) available. The EU2000i just can't keep up with the electrical requirements of a modern RV with air conditioning. It's even more difficult, if not impossible when you add a 15K A/C.

I do like your generator box. That's a novel way to store the generator and keep "prying eyes" out of your investment...
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:22 AM   #9
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Would two-EU 2000 generators ( 4000 total) be sufficient for air and other electrical appliances in a Passport? The air is 13.5 I believe.
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Old 10-17-2011, 11:08 AM   #10
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First off, using 2 EU2000 generators is NOT providing 4000 watts.... They are rated at 1600 watts each (continuous) so they only provide 3200 watts for constant use. The 2000 watt rating is for surge demand and they are only supposed to be loaded at more than 1600 watts each for no more than 20 minutes and are not to exceed 2000 watts max on an intermittent basis or damage may occur.

Many people go the route of two EU2000 generators. Actually, you need one EU2000i and one companion2000i as well as the parallel connection cable kit.

At CW, the EU2000i is about $900 the companion is about 1200 and the parallel kit is about 150 for a total of about $2250. The power specs are:

EU 2000 or companion 2000 continuous power out 1600 watts each 2000 watts max (there is a warning not to exceed the continuous output for more than 20 minutes)

so the pair would give you 3200 watts continuous and up to 4000 watts surge. That would be enough to run most any A/C continuously and power most other electrical needs intermittently.

To put it into perspective, the pair would provide 26.6 amps at 120 volts (your trailer is either 30 or 50 amps). If you have two A/C's, neither the pair of 2000's or the 3000 single genset would be sufficient. With two A/C's you'd need at least 5000 watts.

For comparison, the price of a Honda EU3000is is $2222 currently on sale for $1999 and the Honda EU3000i Handi is $2555 currently on sale for $2299.

What's the difference in the 3000 watt generators? Essentially, you need one of each to connect in parallel like you do with the 2000 watt gensets. Also, the 'is' model is rated at 49dB at quarter load and 57dB at full load. The Handi is rated at 57dB quarter load and 62dB at full load. Roughly twice as loud as the 'is' model. Comparing the Handi to the Champion 4000, which costs $279, the Handi produces about 1000 watts less power and the Honda Handi is only "minimally more quiet" <about 5 dB more quiet> (all that for only $2010 more)

The nice thing about pairing two 2000i generators is you can use just one of them if you don't need A/C. That saves about 1/2 the gas expense and produces only about 1/2 the noise. but realistically, if you're going to pay over $2200 for generators, what's the big deal about using 2 gallons of gas vs 1 gallon ???? it comes down to the noise in that situation, I think.....

Bottom line, at least for me was obtaining sufficient power to match my trailer input (30 amps) without "breaking the bank" so I could power my RV a couple hours a day to recharge batteries, have power available to use the microwave when it is convenient and be able to "survive" with A/C if it gets down to that choice..... However, in Michigan, A/C is not a life threatening requirement, rather a comfort convenience if you're "stuck inside" and if that's the case, and being "stuck inside" is the issue, then why even leave home?????

The Handi is only minimally quieter than the Champion and has about 2/3 the power output. In our camping environment, where we camp large distances from other people, use the generator only a couple hours a day (at the most) and wanted a generator capable of providing 220 VAC for emergency home use. The noise is not a deciding factor, so the choice was much less complex for me.
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Old 10-17-2011, 02:09 PM   #11
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Lot's of choice

Always lot's of discussion with the generator / inverter topic.... All good points that are brought up, cost, noise, fuel.... After a number of years, we have settled in with 'our' choice. Have a Mitsubishi 1k inverter, use this for standby in case main generator goes out (has happened) provides enough for everything except aircon and microwave. This small unit just purr's very quietly using very little fuel, however runs my favorite k-cup coffee maker. A week (7 days) with this unit, 24/7 uses like 15 gal of fuel... roughly $50.00. This provides fans, lights, computer/phone charging, coleman 12v cooler for cold drinks... and yea, other stuff like the Walmart pool filter at Bristol. Key is it's "quiet", no guilt in starting it anywhere, Walmart parking lot or where-ever. For 'Main' power, we use the Boliy, it starts the 15k aircon unit when really needed and just purr's as well, has econ mode while not needing the aircon start. Talking about 'start', since plugging in the hard start capacitor, the start cycle with the aircon hardly hits the Boliy gen/inverter. Last time out, the Boliy lasted like 16hrs without aircon use (1.9gal), and did not bother anyone around us.... including 'us'. Reason we like this unit so much is it's onl 74Ibs, I was tired of trying to manage 100Ibs with other generators we had. I don't sell or endorse any of this stuff, just relate 'our' choice. I actually looked at dual honda 2k's and the 3k quiet unit, just felt the $ and weight was not what we wanted. Hope you find your sweet-spot with the generator/inverters, we finally did!
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Old 10-17-2011, 03:49 PM   #12
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First off, using 2 EU2000 generators is NOT providing 4000 watts.... They are rated at 1600 watts each (continuous) so they only provide 3200 watts for constant use. The 2000 watt rating is for surge demand and they are only supposed to be loaded at more than 1600 watts each for no more than 20 minutes and are not to exceed 2000 watts max on an intermittent basis or damage may occur.

Many people go the route of two EU2000 generators. Actually, you need one EU2000i and one companion2000i as well as the parallel connection cable kit.

At CW, the EU2000i is about $900 the companion is about 1200 and the parallel kit is about 150 for a total of about $2250. The power specs are:

EU 2000 or companion 2000 continuous power out 1600 watts each 2000 watts max (there is a warning not to exceed the continuous output for more than 20 minutes)

so the pair would give you 3200 watts continuous and up to 4000 watts surge. That would be enough to run most any A/C continuously and power most other electrical needs intermittently.

To put it into perspective, the pair would provide 26.6 amps at 120 volts (your trailer is either 30 or 50 amps). If you have two A/C's, neither the pair of 2000's or the 3000 single genset would be sufficient. With two A/C's you'd need at least 5000 watts.

For comparison, the price of a Honda EU3000is is $2222 currently on sale for $1999 and the Honda EU3000i Handi is $2555 currently on sale for $2299.

What's the difference in the 3000 watt generators? Essentially, you need one of each to connect in parallel like you do with the 2000 watt gensets. Also, the 'is' model is rated at 49dB at quarter load and 57dB at full load. The Handi is rated at 57dB quarter load and 62dB at full load. Roughly twice as loud as the 'is' model. Comparing the Handi to the Champion 4000, which costs $279, the Handi produces about 1000 watts less power and the Honda Handi is only "minimally more quiet" <about 5 dB more quiet> (all that for only $2010 more)

The nice thing about pairing two 2000i generators is you can use just one of them if you don't need A/C. That saves about 1/2 the gas expense and produces only about 1/2 the noise. but realistically, if you're going to pay over $2200 for generators, what's the big deal about using 2 gallons of gas vs 1 gallon ???? it comes down to the noise in that situation, I think.....

Bottom line, at least for me was obtaining sufficient power to match my trailer input (30 amps) without "breaking the bank" so I could power my RV a couple hours a day to recharge batteries, have power available to use the microwave when it is convenient and be able to "survive" with A/C if it gets down to that choice..... However, in Michigan, A/C is not a life threatening requirement, rather a comfort convenience if you're "stuck inside" and if that's the case, and being "stuck inside" is the issue, then why even leave home?????

The Handi is only minimally quieter than the Champion and has about 2/3 the power output. In our camping environment, where we camp large distances from other people, use the generator only a couple hours a day (at the most) and wanted a generator capable of providing 220 VAC for emergency home use. The noise is not a deciding factor, so the choice was much less complex for me.
That was interesting & enlightning! I use the Dometic 3000W Generator, not a super quiet unit but acceptable in most situations & easy to hall. My air unit is a 15 so it struggles with that, however, aside from air every other appliance works fine. It weights about 75 lbs so I usually leave it in the back of the TV, bring out the 30 AMP extention cord, plug in, start up. It's perfect for a Flying J stop or whatever. We don't do alot of boondocking but I always have it back there just in case. If Carolyn can't blow dry here hair in the morning I've got a head ache for the rest of the day!
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Old 10-25-2011, 05:25 AM   #13
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I have been researching all posts concerning generators and I do want a generator(s) that will fit in the Passport storage compartment. What would be the noise level of two Honda or Yamaha 2000's running at same time compared to one larger unit ( 3000 or 2400) ? I know the Honda 2000 is quiet but adding another one would increase the noise and fumes, correct? My trailer will have the 13.5 ac. I also considered the Boily but no dealers and more importantly, no service centers in Illinois ( central) and I would not want to ship it back in case warranty repairs are needed.
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Old 10-25-2011, 06:58 AM   #14
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Yankees1,

Your question leaves so many unanswered parts that it's impossible to make any relavent suggestions. You've got to be much more specific before any recommendations or suggestions would help. Some of the considerations are:

1. Passport makes 14 trailers ranging from 24' to 35'. I am sure the size of the front passthrough is different on that large a model line. The Passport Express is available in 5 sizes ranging from 17' to 25'. They are also "Passport RVs" but certainly differ in size and construction from the regular Passport line. Which trailer are you looking at? The size of the compartment and the size of the generator(s) that will fit in it depend on the trailer, which are you considering? The best I can find in your initial post is that you're considering a 2012 Passport. There are 19 to choose from according to Keystone's website.

2. Are you planning to "semi permanently" install the generator(s) in the front compartment? If so, you need to think very seriously about ventilation, exhaust fumes, gasoline storage/refueling, heat buildup, vibration while using and trying to sleep, etc.

3. If you're thinking about travel/storage using the passthrough and plan to lift the generator out for use alongside the RV, then how big, old, are you and what medical conditions, etc enter the equation. If you're in your mid 30's, healthy, relatively strong with a spouse to lend a hand if needed vs 65, a "bum shoulder" travelling alone at times, you'd need to look at what your options are much differently.

4. Your camping situation is not explained, as are the above considerations. I don't think you'll find much help with anyone making suggestions while guessing at the above. Please be more specific, give your expectations in as much detail as you can and you will probably get much better advice.

I guess it's sort of like going to the Doctor and saying, "I hurt, tell me why." Without more information such as is it your head or your foot, any answer is, at best, only a WAG. That's not going to help with your pain, nor, in this situation would the current information help you make a decision.

Ultimately, I think it's going to come down to having the trailer in hand, look for generators that "fit your needs and your trailer" and don't forget the money considerations, your choice has to fit your wallet as well.

I don't think you're going to find a "perfect match" using a portable generator. There are compromises to make over a permanently installed generator which also has its drawbacks. Find what fits your needs and wallet best and then enjoy camping.
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Old 10-25-2011, 07:23 AM   #15
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Just a note, comparing the larger Champion generators and the eu2000 is not exactly apples-to-apples. The eu2000 is an inverter generator which will provide commercial-quality power, the output of standard generators looks pretty poor in comparison. The difference may or may not be decisive depending on what you are powering, but just about anything will be happier with 60 hz pure sine wave with low distortion vs. what comes out of inexpensive standard generators (although you may be fortunate enough to have it work out for you.) Also when an inverter generator is not at maximum output it will reduce engine speed and in that mode will be much quieter than a standard 3600-rpm generator, really no comparison. Champion also makes inverter generators and they are much closer in price to the Honda... you get what you pay for.

A 2000-watt unit is marginal for running an A/C 'tis true, and the two eu2000i solution is popular when you need A/C in the summer, and just use one unit the rest of the year. Plus with two units you have redundancy in case on fails, important if you are in a situation where you will be depending on a power source. But in both quality and cost the Honda units are the Cadillac and depending on your needs it may be more logical and cost-effective to go with a cheaper solution, and that is always worth considering depending on your budget. But as usual with the step up in price comes a step up in quality/versatility.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:58 AM   #16
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Very valid points, SMiller. For us, with the camping season being only 4 or 5 months long, using the generator infrequently during that time and needing one that produces 220 VAC for emergency use at home, Honda doesn't offer anything in our "price range" that fit the bill. Ideally, I'd love to have a small Yamaha 3000watt generator for RV use and a natural gas Automatic power plant for use at home, but we only lose power at home maybe 3 or 4 times a year and most of them are only 10 minutes or less, so paying $10K for that just doesn't make sense. As for RVing, it seems logical to get a multifunction generator that can supplement power needs at home as well as run the RV when needed.

I couldn't justify even $2K for that kind of investment, I just didn't (and don't) see how we could recoup our investment in functionality or in use, so the smaller investment just made sense for us and the way we use our generator. The Champion 4000 watt generator cost $279 and a 3 year replacement contract was $39. That's 4 years of guaranteed functionality for less than $320. Assuming it self destructs every time it reaches the end of the replacement contract, I'd still only be paying $1590 for a guaranteed 20 years of operational generator use. That's still about $700 less than a Honda 3000 Handi costs initially. As for operational expenses, as infrequently as we use it, I can't imagine the Honda ever gaining an advantage in fuel consumption given the hours we'd put on it.

Champion, for all its "misgivings" is a good little generator extremely capable of doing what it's designed to do. Granted, it's not the "Cadillac", probably not even the "Ford or Chevy" of generators, but I'd have to rank it above the "Yugo" for sure

I'm not trying to argue with you, your points are well taken and very valid. As you said, "depending on your needs it may be more logical and cost-effective to go with a cheaper solution"

That was my take on deciding what to buy, others may feel more inclined to step up in price and quality, only their specific needs and their wallet can help them decide what's best for them.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:38 PM   #17
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Yankees1,

Your question leaves so many unanswered parts that it's impossible to make any relavent suggestions. You've got to be much more specific before any recommendations or suggestions would help. Some of the considerations are:

1. Passport makes 14 trailers ranging from 24' to 35'. I am sure the size of the front passthrough is different on that large a model line. The Passport Express is available in 5 sizes ranging from 17' to 25'. They are also "Passport RVs" but certainly differ in size and construction from the regular Passport line. Which trailer are you looking at? The size of the compartment and the size of the generator(s) that will fit in it depend on the trailer, which are you considering? The best I can find in your initial post is that you're considering a 2012 Passport. There are 19 to choose from according to Keystone's website.

2. Are you planning to "semi permanently" install the generator(s) in the front compartment? If so, you need to think very seriously about ventilation, exhaust fumes, gasoline storage/refueling, heat buildup, vibration while using and trying to sleep, etc.

3. If you're thinking about travel/storage using the passthrough and plan to lift the generator out for use alongside the RV, then how big, old, are you and what medical conditions, etc enter the equation. If you're in your mid 30's, healthy, relatively strong with a spouse to lend a hand if needed vs 65, a "bum shoulder" travelling alone at times, you'd need to look at what your options are much differently.

4. Your camping situation is not explained, as are the above considerations. I don't think you'll find much help with anyone making suggestions while guessing at the above. Please be more specific, give your expectations in as much detail as you can and you will probably get much better advice.

I guess it's sort of like going to the Doctor and saying, "I hurt, tell me why." Without more information such as is it your head or your foot, any answer is, at best, only a WAG. That's not going to help with your pain, nor, in this situation would the current information help you make a decision.

Ultimately, I think it's going to come down to having the trailer in hand, look for generators that "fit your needs and your trailer" and don't forget the money considerations, your choice has to fit your wallet as well.

I don't think you're going to find a "perfect match" using a portable generator. There are compromises to make over a permanently installed generator which also has its drawbacks. Find what fits your needs and wallet best and then enjoy camping.
You are correct in assessing my questions! Sorry! As you can tell I am brand new to this new adventure! 1. This Passport is the 2650BH 29foot unit. 13.5 ac. 2. I would transport the generator in the compartment only and remove for using it. 3. I am 65 and in good physical condition. My wife says I am 65 going on 40! Still bike, hike and stay active! I play the mandolin and will be going to Bluegrass festivals ( summer) and some of these events do not have any electrical hookups. Also, we will be taking our grand kids on a few camping trips. Anything else? I appreciate your advice/opinions !
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Old 10-25-2011, 03:25 PM   #18
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Some seem to me to be making this more difficult than it needs to be. More often than not a 4000 to 4500 watt generator will do anything an average camper will need for day to day camping.
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Old 10-25-2011, 04:10 PM   #19
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Hi yankees1,

Probably the first thing you'll need to decide is whether you want to support air conditioning or not. If so you will need a 3500-4000 watt class generator (or two smaller inverter units running together.) I started with a 3500-watt Honda standard generator (non-inverter, runs at 3600 rpm, pretty much the same as the Champion model described above.) It worked well but the critical issue ended up being noise... it wasn't terribly loud, but any engine you leave running all day long will become annoying in direct proportion to how long you have to listen to it (and that goes double or triple for your neighbors.) My normal dry camping mode hopefully avoids the need for all-day A/C, in which case I only need to run the generator for a few hours every couple of days to bring the batteries back up (or maybe daily if the furnace runs a lot or we watched a long movie on the big screen.) In that case my eu2000 just purrs at part throttle with a noise level that's hardly noticeable 30 feet away, and I just feel a lot better about that when others are near me in the campground. I just don't like the 'looks' from others, and if you don't know what I mean by that then run a standard generator all day and you will.

But that's just my own case, your situation may be different. Just throwing some things out there...
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:41 AM   #20
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Appreciate all the solid opinions on this topic as I consider what my needs are and what the ROI (Return On Investment) will be for me. I was seriously salivating over the Honda Generators mainly due to their quieter operation and wanting to be a good neighbor to my fellow campers. After reading many of the posts in here, I'm rethinking that the handful of times a year I go camping without 30 amp service, I don't know that they will ever pay for themselves. I would have to buy two of the 2000 series I'm guessing with a 13.5 AC. The cheaper but slightly more noisy options would likely meet my needs and frankly, I'm thinking I can still strive to be the good neighbor by installing some 12v vent fans to keep the camper cooler during the day and maybe only run the generator for a few hours as the sun sets to recharge the battery and give a quick boost to lowering the temp with the A/C blasting for a few hours to take the afternoon heat out of the camper.

Again, thanks all for the solid opinions on whats working for you as it's given me plenty of pro's and con's to consider in making the decision on whats right for me.
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