Reese Dual Cam Set Up????

Hansel · 01-20-2014, 08:17 AM

I got a great deal on a Reese D/C sway control system, I've installed the cam arms now I'm at the step where in the video from E-trailer he has you place the cam a 1/2" forward of the detent, but it does not state this in the installation instruction. I can get my chains straight up (vertical) but when I try too have them a 1/2" forward when I apply the tension on the spring bar it slide into the detent anyway. So I'm confused

if I want too get it moved any farther forward (chain bracket) I would need too move the tanks forward some and remove the friction sway control bracket.

So do I ignore the step in the video, and go with the chains being vertical???

One more thing, what keeps them from popping out on extremely hard turns or backing?? or does the trailer hitch head not get too that extreme of an angle??

byrdr1 · 01-20-2014, 11:19 AM

Hansel,
I had this setup on my TT. very easy to setup and works like it supposed too.
IT is supposed to rest in the indention thats the design of it. Thats how I saw the video?? THE dual Cam sway has both the anti sway and the weight distribution built into it.
I watched the video and he set it up right. everything is straight down and straight back. the main thing to to get weight distribution right then work on the anti sway. Also do not over tighten the set screws, there are self tapping and if you over tighten them you have stripped your holes.
They do stay in place when backing or turning. Don't know that I can explain that but they work. I think I read someone had them pop out in a extreme turn but not for regular driving or backing. IF you see you are going to back at an extreme angle you can take the bars off your hitch. A little extra work ahead of backing into the site, but they will be off once you park the RV anyway.
randy

Western Traveler · 01-20-2014, 11:25 AM

^^^ What he said...

Hansel · 01-20-2014, 06:43 PM

Thanks guys, I'm working on it tomorrow resetting the hitch and I will take it out for a test drive, and see how much turning and backing too see if these things want too pop out. I have too cut it kinda hard to get into my driveway and I live on a busy 2 lane rural road, so having one of the bars pop out could be a bad thing. I will post up some pics also so you guys can take at look at my set up

RichR · 01-21-2014, 07:07 AM

I think that the bars can pop out of the cam if there is not enough tension on them from setup. Raising one link seems to cure that. It may have to do with having the proper bars matched to the tongue weight. The anti-sway action depends upon there being sufficient weight on the bar/cam contact. When adjusting the cam arms be sure to be on a very flat surface and that the trailer and TV are perfectly straight, measure from the rear bumper to the corners of the trailer and adjust the alignment to get equal measurements.

Bob Landry · 01-21-2014, 07:20 AM

If you are using the D/C system, why do you even still have the friction bar bracket installed. it can go away. Also, what are your TV front fender heights unhitched, hitched, and then with the WD bars cammed up. The manual to your truck will tell you how much weight is to be transferred back to the front axel. The proper WD setup needs to be verified before you go any further and nothing posted does that.
There is also a specific location for the DC brackets, depending on if you have a round bar or trunnion system.

RichR · 01-21-2014, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

If you are using the D/C system, why do you even still have the friction bar bracket installed. it can go away. Also, what are your TV front fender heights unhitched, hitched, and then with the WD bars cammed up. The manual to your truck will tell you how much weight is to be transferred back to the front axel. The proper WD setup needs to be verified before you go any further and nothing posted does that.
There is also a specific location for the DC brackets, depending on if you have a round bar or trunnion system.

The DC brackets can be flipped from one side to the other to allow for better mounting positions. It's covered in the instructions.

Bob Landry · 01-21-2014, 08:14 AM

I was referring to the friction bar brackets, not he DC brackets.

Laredo291OH · 01-21-2014, 10:48 AM

The Dual Cam hitch can pivot quite far without a problem. I turned my truck hard enough for the trailer frame to hit and bend the bumper, but the bars never popped off of the cams, at least not enough that they didn't return on their own.

I love my dual cam, the only problem I have had is the bar riding up on the inside shoulder of the cam, it did that the last 2 times we towed last year. Will have to look into that issue this spring. Also, don't be surprised the first time you tow with it, when you are making slow turns or backing in to a spot it will pop and snap, but that is normal. Bob and Rich are both correct, there is a specific placement for the cam brackets depending on the type of tension bars you have, trunnion or round. As Rich stated, you can also swap the cam brackets from left to right for better placement, which I had to do to clear the propane tanks. The instructions give you the dimensions for the bracket placement. Everything has to work together and you end up moving everything, hitch head (pivot, and up or down to get bars parallel and correct ride height), cam brackets in and out etc. It takes several hours, lots of hitching and unhitching, and lots of measuring to get everything correct, once it is though it is a great hitch setup. As byrdr1 said, make sure you are on flat level ground and that the trailer is level before you ever start.

fla-gypsy · 01-21-2014, 11:30 AM

I am using this set up very successfully but a few things you need to understand. You can turn far enough in certain trailer configurations so that the bars will contact the frame and/or cam arms and can damage the system. I have never had a cam pop out. Mine will contact the cam arms first and turns that severe should be avoided and should be unnecessary also. The self tapping screws should be torqued according to the instructions, not more or less and should be checked occasionally. The chains do not have to be vertical for this system to function correctly. The key to top performance is the final adjustment where you loosen the cam arm and maneuver the vehicle and take it back to a straight line and retighten the cam arms. Once you have that perfect, this system is a dream to use and will provide much comfort when towing.

Hansel · 01-21-2014, 04:45 PM

Finished up the installation today, readjusted the hitch so my truck sit's right, and took it out for a test drive in the 25 mph wind gust's. It does drag a little pulling out of my driveway and when backing in, but I took some really sharp turns and it didn't seem like the bars where going too pop out.

How does it look, the chains are actually straight up (vertical) but I think the picture angle makes them look off just a tad.

Bob Landry · 01-21-2014, 04:47 PM

Just curious, how do you define "sits right"?

Hansel · 01-21-2014, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

Just curious, how do you define "sits right"?

Front fender back too it original height, started off at 35 1/2" and after adjusting the hitch head I got it back too 35 1/2" and the rear went down 1 1/16" and the camper is slightly nose down.

Bob Landry · 01-21-2014, 05:25 PM

The purpose of WD is not to level the truck. If the rear is at the unhitched height, you are probably at too much tension on the bars. It's very unlikely that the rear would be the same on a correctly adjusted hitch. With too much bar tension, you run the risk of losing traction with the rear tires and accelerating wear on the front tires and suspension. What is the height of the front fender unhitched, hitched, and hitched with the WD bars tensioned?

Bob Landry · 01-21-2014, 05:27 PM

Sorry, I misread your post. I thought you said the rear was at the original height. If the front is at original height, you are probably very close and I would leave it alone.

Hansel · 01-21-2014, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

The purpose of WD is not to level the truck. If the rear is at the unhitched height, you are probably at too much tension on the bars. It's very unlikely that the rear would be the same on a correctly adjusted hitch. With too much bar tension, you run the risk of losing traction with the rear tires and accelerating wear on the front tires and suspension. What is the height of the front fender unhitched, hitched, and hitched with the WD bars tensioned?

I was thinking what

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

Sorry, I misread your post. I thought you said the rear was at the original height. If the front is at original height, you are probably very close and I would leave it alone.

Then I read this, I thought I had wrote it wrong or something

Diesel Dude · 01-29-2014, 05:36 PM

I would recommend the dual cam set up to anyone. It's well worth the money. We had a 35' bumper pull laredo with reese dual cam. Not once did I have the bars come out of the brackets. Made towing our trailer much easier. It still had a little sway at higher towing speeds but it made towing much better.

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