TT "fell' while hitching up!

WaitingToRetire · 06-19-2011, 08:50 PM

Just joined, gave my first post on the newbie thread. So here's my second post.

Well, had my first "thank God no one got hurt" incident. I had our TT parked on a pretty good incline (it took 4 Lynx Levelers & three 2x4's with the tongue jack ran all the way out to get it fore-aft level - so "pretty good incline" is an understatement in my eyes), and had 4 Lynx Levelers on one of the curb-side tires to get it L-R level. I put in one of the yellow wedge-type wheel chocks in the street-side tires. It was fine for 5 days like that. When I went to hitch up today, things went bad. I brought up the stab jacks - no problem. Then I started to lower the TT onto the hitch. About halfway down, the whole trailer "jumped" off the coupler jack blocks (the 4 Lynx Levelers & three 2x4's) and onto the ground.

I heard it start creaking, and looked down to see the coupler jack foot slipping off the blocks. I tried to push on the trailer to keep it from coming, but it quickly became apparent that wasn't going to work. So I jumped out of the way let it come crashing down. Scared the living heck out of me, the spousal unit, and the kids. I believe the wedge chock in the street-side tires prevented it from rolling downhill. I jacked it up and hooked it up to the truck and drove home.

What I believe happened is: the curb-side tire wasn't fully on the Lynx Levelers, it was a little on the "front" side of the levelers. When I started the nose down, that tire started to inch fwd on those levelers (or, the TT weight shifted fwd) and caused the coupler jack foot to slip off it's blocks.

So, 1) anyone experienced that before?
2) How do I prevent it?
3) Would the "Rotochocks" that everyone raves about have kept the wheel on the levelers from moving?
4) I only had one wheel on the curb-side "leveled". The other (aft) wheel was on the ground. Is this ok to level like this, or do both wheels on a side need to be on blocks.

Sorry for the long post, newbie here.

Chad

Festus2 · 06-19-2011, 09:30 PM

I have a 5th wheel and before hitching/unhitching, I place wheel chocks on all 4 tires. Recently, I purchased X-Chocks which keeps the RV stable as well as acting as another tight-fitting chock between the two wheels on each side. All of these chocks might be overkill, but the 5th wheel isn't moving anywhere! It will not slip off any of the levelling boards I use.
I use 2x10's (or 1x10's) instead of Lynx levellers and always place them, if needed, under both wheels on one or both sides rather than under one wheel.
With an incline as steep as the one you described, you need to ensure that your TT is not going to move at all when you hitch/unhitch.

antiqfreq · 06-20-2011, 06:05 AM

Like Festus said - first paragraph -

Use the chocks on all four wheels and the chocks for inbetween the tires.

Can't say IF it does or doesn't cut down on the motion of the fiver, but I truly believe it would have helped in your situation!

Jo

cumminsdad08 · 06-20-2011, 01:27 PM

something that i usually always do is hook up the safety chains to the truck. this way if it does start to move around, it will only go as far as my truck(a beast in its self) will let it. this is a practice that i have been doing for years. they are the first thing that i hook up and the last thing that i unhook. don't know if it is a bad practice, but it always made sense in my head. i do this with utility trailers as well as the camper. just a habit i picked up from guys i work with

as far as leveling, i usally always level with both tires, just kinda makes sense to me. the suspension should flex if it needs to go up and down with the trailer jack.

when all else fails, just back up and keep eveyone away from the trailer. i usually send my wife off to a picinic table, or to the bathroom with the kids while i am leveling and re hitching the trailer. when these things start to go, just back up and let it go. you will never be able to keep control of them. (ok maybe a pop-up)

WaitingToRetire · 06-20-2011, 02:48 PM

Thanks for the responses. The "chains on first" idea makes sense to me.

I guess I will have to figure out what to use to level both wheels on a side. Seems like it could be kinda hard, since the wheels are so close together - makes it difficult to "ramp up" at least one of the wheels, right?

cumminsdad08 · 06-20-2011, 03:17 PM

ummm, it really isn't that hard. whatever you put under one wheel, put under the one behind it. some people perfer to use wood, IE 2x6, 2x8, 1x6, 1x8 and so forth. you would just cut them to a comfortable length, at least as long as the distance your wheels spreed, or a little longer. i for one, don't really like this idea, only because i don't really have anyplace to stack a bunch of lumber. i have enought stuff in the trailer, and i have plenty in my bed. i use those square orange flat blocks, i forget what they are called, but they seem to get the job done quick. just got to watch how high you get, cause eventually you have to "step" the trailer onto them. IE put a stack of 2 infront of a stack of 4, to "walk" the trailer onto it. under the trailer jack i use a 4x6 with a 2x10 nailed on the bottom, for more stability in mud and sandy soil. if i need more i use another 4x6 with a shallow hole in the middle just big enough for the trailer jack to fit into. i also have a block which i aquired from a header on a garage, which is, if i remember, 8-2x6 glued and pressed from the mill, under my stabalizer jacks. this helps keep the jacks a little shorter and helps keep the sway down. these blocks fit nicely under my boys bed, which has the, "toys and more" door on it. i see all kinds of people's "creations" out there, you just got to figure out what works for you. when you get into your site, figure out how unlevel you are, pull the trailer front, put your blocks of choice behind your wheels and then just back right on it. sometimes if room permits i will back the trailer up, and then pull on the blocks, my truck pulls better then it pushes. its a little tricky untill you get the hang of it. once it is level just drop the jacks and unpack. if you have the room at home you can practice your technique on differnt approches. don't let people at campgrounds get pushy. take the time you need, then no one can get hurt. if at all possible, jot down the sites you were in and what you had to do to level off, or to avoid, or ask for them next time. we keep a large folder in the truck at all times and each campground has a few pages of note's for the next time we travel there. hope this helps you out a little. i am no expert (yet), i just started out myself a few months ago, but we are out almost every other weekend and to several differn't campgrounds. just got to figure out what works for you. every trailer and tow vehical is completly differnt.

i have attached my blocks for under my stabalizing jacks. they were at a cost of nothing to me(i work construction and get lots of "junk" to bring home).

WaitingToRetire · 06-20-2011, 05:50 PM

Thanks Cumminsdad08. That helped a lot. It's nice to hear how other people do things, and see how they approach the same problems/issues.

Chad

mhs4771 · 06-20-2011, 07:18 PM

What I did was buy some hinges. This allowed me to cut my leveling boards in half, attach the hinges and fold them up for storage. Still take of space, but you don't need 6 to 8 feet. I had 3 sections of 2x6s and 1 section of 1x6, each a little shorter than the previous, but long enough to fit both wheels, cut at a 45 on one end to make driving on easier. Worked for me for many years.

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