Rear cap coming loose

[Tracker]

Went to put new plate tags on last week and found the lower left rear cap separating from the side wall. Noticed last fall after the last trip that the bottom of rear cap felt loose when removing the power cord. Was going to see if if I could add a piece of angle iron to secure it. Do not see any damage on the inside rear wall. Also have not run in to anything. The trailer is a 2014 Mountaineer 331rl. What can I do to secure this?

[Mikendebbie]

Since your unit has a "rear wall" rather than a "rear cap" - my question is how do they attach walls to the frame and to each other at the corners? - because your connections have obviously failed or have come loose.

I have watched several factory tour videos of the Montana factory in Goshen, IN, and I do not remember ever seeing a close-up of exactly how the walls are anchored. They show several shots of the walls being moved into place on the frame with an overhead crane. I assume that maybe they build the laminated wall units and provide some number of "leave-outs" at the base and along the corners for intersections to be bolted together. I don't know if they use self-tapping screws or if they use bolts, nuts and washers. The walls are not "built in place" like the walls in your S&B. They are built in a separate area of the factory then moved to a different location for assembly onto the frame. Maybe someone on this forum can help you find the anchor points. If you posted the question to the Montana Owners Forum , lots of those folks have been on the factory tour and maybe someone there could advise you how the walls are anchored and what to do next.

[KRumm]

Is the separation noticeable on the inside?

[Mikendebbie]

OP stated "Do not see any damage on the inside rear wall."

[JRTJH]

The side wall is a "laminated, single structure" with the extreme rear (part that attaches to the rear FILON wall) being an aluminum 2x2 square tube.

The rear wall is "stapled around the perimeter" and an aluminum "L" extrusion is then positioned on the rear FILON wall and overlapping the sidewall structure.

That "L" extrusion is "screwed into the square tubing that makes up the "extreme rear sidewall structure". Then, after the screws are all attached, a "screw trim vinyl strip" is pushed into the slots on that "L" extrusion.


So, to reattach the rear wall, first pull the vinyl screw cover from the "L" extrusion. Remove the screws, starting at the bottom on both sides, pull all the screws, remove the "L" extrusion, clean it up, inspect the rear FILON sheet for security and the laminated sidewall for damage. Once any damage or loose components are repaired/resecured, clean all the old butyl putty tape from the structure and the extrusion, apply new butyl putty tape, reinstall the "L" extrusion using the same screws. If the screw holes are stripped out, go up "ONE SIZE" in self tapping screws, making sure that you redrill the appropriate size holes in the "L" extrusion so the threads won't "lift the "L" extrusion during installation.

Once the rear is reattached and secure, use SIKAFLEX sealant to seal the edges of the "L" extrusion.

Job done.....

[Tracker]

Thanks JRTJH.