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Old 04-24-2022, 06:21 AM   #1
2010 raptor
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Electrical help maybe?

2010 raptor 3912. Landing gear, rear stabilizer, and awning all stop when they encounter resistance. Just replaced rear stabilizer motor and works the same as the old one, it works fine until it touches the ground and then stops. It won't put any pressure down. Awning goes out fine but won't roll up unless you help it by taking the pressure off by pulling the arms down. Front jacks move slow, and now stop shortly after getting weight on them. I think the front jacks have something broken in it because it clicks a lot like a gear slipping. Any idea of how to fix any of these issues? Any help is appreciated.
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Old 04-24-2022, 06:40 AM   #2
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Welcome to the forum

How old is the battery? Are you plugged in to shore power?
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Old 04-24-2022, 06:42 AM   #3
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Sounds like a battery(s) issue. Are you plugged into shore power? How old are the batteries and have they been tested? By tested, not by pushing the monitor button button and looking at the LED's but pulled out and load tested at an auto parts store.

The "clicking souns" is likely a relay or the auto resetting circuit breakers on the battery positive lead. They can cause the same issue if they are heavily corroded as corrosion increases resistance which increases the amperage draw. Also check the condition of the negative battery cable ends for corrosion and remove the bolt securing it to the frame, clean the contact points and resecure.
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Old 04-24-2022, 06:43 AM   #4
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I don't know how old the batteries are, it has 2. I'm plugged into shore power. Only had this camper about 8 months, but have had campers for about 18 years but never had a problem like this.
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Old 04-24-2022, 06:45 AM   #5
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Batteries haven't been tested. No corrosion on the battery, all battery connections are tight. Where is the ground to the frame located?
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Old 04-24-2022, 06:53 AM   #6
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Follow the lead from the batteries to find the ground. I would definitely load test the batteries.
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:04 AM   #7
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Yes... Check battery... Wiring connections to battery... Wiring connection to ground/frame... Somewhere you have a weak link that is not letting enough current thru the system to power your motors.
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:06 AM   #8
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Ok thanks, ill try to check everything again and definitely find the trailer ground and check that and load test the batteries. Will a bad battery cause the motors to not work correctly even when plugged to shore power?
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:10 AM   #9
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Do you have a meter to test the voltage while your system is under the loads you describe? What does the voltage drop to? Full charge should stay arounf 12.8...
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:14 AM   #10
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Ok thanks, ill try to check everything again and definitely find the trailer ground and check that and load test the batteries. Will a bad battery cause the motors to not work correctly even when plugged to shore power?
Absolutly. If a battery has a shorted cell it can also ruin the converter. The slide motors require high amperage that's more than the converter can supply. Replace the batteries IN PAIRS, NOT INDIVIDUALLY. Replacing one battery only will only result in the premature demise of the new battery as the old battery will cannabilize it.
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:17 AM   #11
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I will add to Marshalls post. When you install the batteries make sure the trailer leads are on OPPOSITE batteries.
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:40 AM   #12
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Ok thanks for all the quick replies I really appreciate it. I can work on most things but I don't know much about electrical issues. I'll probably just put in new batteries in the next couple days and report back. Thanks again
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Old 04-24-2022, 03:09 PM   #13
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If you follow the POSITIVE battery cable (black cable) it will go to either two or three 12 volt DC mini-breakers. They usually last 8-10 years on a fifth wheel (where they are protected from most water/corrosion).

You might want to verify that they are working properly. You can find them by following the black battery cable. It will go directly to them, then to the trailer circuits. They look like this photo and the amperage is marked on the container. They are not all identical, so verify the amperage if you need to replace any of them. The photo with the red cables is from a newer trailer, your year probably has black and white cables unless the previous owner replaced them.
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Old 04-24-2022, 03:28 PM   #14
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Ok thanks for all the quick replies I really appreciate it. I can work on most things but I don't know much about electrical issues. I'll probably just put in new batteries in the next couple days and report back. Thanks again
Be sure they're true deep cycle batteries not marine hybrid cranking batteries.
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Old 04-24-2022, 10:26 PM   #15
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Ok thanks, ill try to check everything again and definitely find the trailer ground and check that and load test the batteries. Will a bad battery cause the motors to not work correctly even when plugged to shore power?
Yes. Motorized accessories use the battery as a source of immediate bulk stored current. The converter can't deliver the instantaneous current needed. Look for bad batteries, bad ground, or a battery disconnect switch in the disconnected position.
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Old 05-01-2022, 07:23 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
If you follow the POSITIVE battery cable (black cable) it will go to either two or three 12 volt DC mini-breakers. They usually last 8-10 years on a fifth wheel (where they are protected from most water/corrosion).

You might want to verify that they are working properly. You can find them by following the black battery cable. It will go directly to them, then to the trailer circuits. They look like this photo and the amperage is marked on the container. They are not all identical, so verify the amperage if you need to replace any of them. The photo with the red cables is from a newer trailer, your year probably has black and white cables unless the previous owner replaced them.



Definitely start here, first. Happened to me and I thought my batteries were getting bad. I jumped the 2 posts on the breaker and was able to continue my trip, until I got to an auto parts store. Corrosion!
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Old 05-01-2022, 08:33 AM   #17
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A cell short is a definite possibility. Look for a cell or two that have a mower water level than the others. Also, be sure to check the water level in all the cells of the batteries. If for some reason the batteries are low on water, you can still get the full charge voltage. When loaded there will be substantially reduce amperage available since a good portion of the plates are not submerged. If that is the case, then start asking why the water level is low. Old, damaged (possibly frozen at one time) batteries, a bad converter or being overcharged can cause that to happen.
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Old 05-06-2022, 11:14 PM   #18
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I replaced all my Self Resetting breakers with Manual breakers and my issues went away. If it's clicking, it's possible the breakers are tripping and then resetting, over and over. Many reasons for that, may be they are weak and not functioning properly. Like others have said, testing the batteries is key. Even on shore power much of what you describe are still running on 12v
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Old 05-20-2022, 04:30 PM   #19
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Just to give an update, replaced batteries and still the same symptoms. Going to a repair guy next week to let him look it over. Thanks for all the replies
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Old 05-23-2022, 05:33 AM   #20
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I've been working on autos and trailers since the early 80s in my experience 95% of electrical problems are due to poor ground/corrosion

As said before have batteries load tested clean up all connections use an anti corrosion spray when reassembling then work your way to component giving symptoms the motors are usually not the problem but their supply is to blame these circuit breakers are notorious for scrapping the bed ( my old Harleys run a similar breaker and I carry spares in saddle bags )

Hope you get *t sorted
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