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Old 01-24-2022, 06:22 AM   #21
dutchmensport
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Or do like we do. You said you already have a residential refrigerator. So, keep containers of water in the freezer section of your residential refrigerator. When the water turns solid and becomes ice, just throw the ice into an ice chest and use the ice chest as a secondary cold storage place. This way, you don't have to rig up anything. Simple, works well, and doesn't cost anything except the price of a new cooler.
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Old 01-24-2022, 08:44 AM   #22
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Are you replacing the residential one? If so still somewhat of a project but doable.
yes, out with the residential and in with the RM 1350.
I've got the outside vents in hand and d/l all the PDF installation etc.
Yes it's doable.
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Old 01-24-2022, 09:38 AM   #23
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Take pics.
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Old 03-31-2022, 01:35 PM   #24
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Take pics.
We got the old one out, the new one in, up and running. Still some cleanup to do and a little trim work.
We're HAPPY campers!
An all out thanks to Steve @ All Jacked UP RV Repair[/QUOTE]
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Old 03-31-2022, 06:06 PM   #25
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You did an excellent job! Looks factory
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Old 04-01-2022, 01:20 AM   #26
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You did an excellent job! Looks factory
Thanks Chuckster!
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Old 04-03-2022, 02:36 PM   #27
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You did an excellent job! Looks factory
Quick question, pulled the vent and I have a bit more gap between the side wall and frig than I'd like to see. Measured today and it's about 5/8" gap. Will fiberglass batt insulation work to fill this void? Better suggestions?

The fridge is cooling fine, 1st night it froze ice and was 32 degrees. Changed the temperature setting to #3, and it was 35 degrees. Course it's not hot outside yet either.

Should I be concerned with the voids on the side wall?
thanks Chuck
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Old 04-03-2022, 03:54 PM   #28
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The fridge came with a drawing showing minimum/ maximum clearances. As long as your within them I wouldnít worry. Iíve seen refer cabinets with insulation on the sidewalls and some without. The critical measurement IMO is the gap for the baffle at the top fins.
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Old 04-03-2022, 07:15 PM   #29
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Insulation on the sides wonít hurt and may improve it. HD & Lowes have a stiff insulation foil backed thatís easy to cut and place, also have the thicker styrofoam just donít block any air flow.
LP operation on fridge is efficient and doesnít use lots of LP.
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Old 04-04-2022, 03:15 AM   #30
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re-read and found the hiding dimension, thanks
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Old 04-04-2022, 03:24 AM   #31
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Insulation on the sides wonít hurt and may improve it. HD & Lowes have a stiff insulation foil backed thatís easy to cut and place, also have the thicker styrofoam just donít block any air flow.
LP operation on fridge is efficient and doesnít use lots of LP.
we used the foil backed sheet insulation on the sides however, still just a little gap. Think I'll re-visit these gaps and contain these voids.
We figured the side insulation would be a great gap filler as well as insulating from a cooking range, and sun beating down on the slide.
I think I have some of the thicker unfaced poly foam also, left over from other projects.
Thx
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Old 04-04-2022, 04:31 AM   #32
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Be careful what material you use, odds are extremely rare, but if a fire started, you donít want real flammable materials in there.
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Old 04-04-2022, 06:51 AM   #33
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Several things to consider:

1. Before the mod to install, the trailer exterior wall provided insulation for the coach interior. Now, with "two huge holes for venting" there is no insulation along the sidewall of the new refrigerator enclosure.

2. During the winter, cold air will infiltrate that space beside the refrigerator and radiate through the 1/8" luan sheeting. During the summer, heat will infiltrate the same space.

3. You're going to have a significant "winter condensation problem" with that "cold sidewall on the cabinet"... And, it's going to be a "source of overly warm temps during the summer"...

4. Insulating the space is one way to negate the outside air infiltration, another is to seal the back corners of the refrigerator so the outside air can't get into the space.

5. You don't want to block the airflow along the rear of the refrigerator, but there is the "same outside air at the top of the refrigerator.

6. The entire refrigerator cabinet space, around the refrigerator, on the sides, the top and the bottom, should be sealed so nothing behind the unit can "migrate" into the living space. Both "raw, unburned propane" as well as CO from the burner can conceiveably enter the cabinet, so sealing that space so all the heat as well as burner gasses are prevented from getting into your coach cabin is an important consideration.

I'd look at using 1" rigid foam board, cut to size and wedged into the spaces at the rear sides and top of the refrigerator and then sealing that "in place" with aluminum duct tape or a caulking sealant that remains pliable so towing vibrations don't pull the sealant away from the edges.
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Old 04-06-2022, 02:37 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Several things to consider:

1. Before the mod to install, the trailer exterior wall provided insulation for the coach interior. Now, with "two huge holes for venting" there is no insulation along the sidewall of the new refrigerator enclosure.

2. During the winter, cold air will infiltrate that space beside the refrigerator and radiate through the 1/8" luan sheeting. During the summer, heat will infiltrate the same space.

3. You're going to have a significant "winter condensation problem" with that "cold sidewall on the cabinet"... And, it's going to be a "source of overly warm temps during the summer"...

4. Insulating the space is one way to negate the outside air infiltration, another is to seal the back corners of the refrigerator so the outside air can't get into the space.

5. You don't want to block the airflow along the rear of the refrigerator, but there is the "same outside air at the top of the refrigerator.

6. The entire refrigerator cabinet space, around the refrigerator, on the sides, the top and the bottom, should be sealed so nothing behind the unit can "migrate" into the living space. Both "raw, unburned propane" as well as CO from the burner can conceiveably enter the cabinet, so sealing that space so all the heat as well as burner gasses are prevented from getting into your coach cabin is an important consideration.

I'd look at using 1" rigid foam board, cut to size and wedged into the spaces at the rear sides and top of the refrigerator and then sealing that "in place" with aluminum duct tape or a caulking sealant that remains pliable so towing vibrations don't pull the sealant away from the edges.
We used foil backed insulation along the side walls and top of fridge,
thx
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