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04-13-2014, 01:43 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Midland Michigan
Posts: 54
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slide out leak is back
Well went out to open up for spring rained quite hard last night and we'll this is getting old!
link to the last thread!!!
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11348
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04-13-2014, 02:38 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 20
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Had the same leak on a 2013 28bhs hideout. dealer could not find leak but did caulk all the outside seams. I haven't had it open yet( almost afraid too) only time will tell I will keep a close eye on it and if It does rain HARD I will do some troubleshooting myself.
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04-13-2014, 04:19 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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I had a leak like that once on the end of a slide. In my case it was a pinhole in the caulk that sealed the trim/molding that runs horizontally along the lower edge of the slide end wall. It was an easy fix but took a while before I figured it out.
I have also heard others leaks where as water was running around lower edge I spoke of and wicking through the fabric underside of the slide floor.
I hope you find it.
Steve
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04-14-2014, 11:44 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,899
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Had a leak this recent winter on the front area of the large curbside slide. Had no water on the inside wall, but the carpet next to the end wall would get very wet in heavy rain. Had a mobile repair guy come out, and he caulked some questionable spots on the slide roof, which ended up having no effect on the leak. I caulked under the edges of the slide, with no effect. Finally got to thinking about the window on the end wall of the slide. There was no leaking from the window itself, but finally discovered a paper thin gap in the butyl material between the window flange and the outer wall surface. I took a knife and cut the butyl material back and slightly under the edge of the flange from where it protruded, cleaned the area with acetone, and caulked all the way around the frame with silicone caulk. There has been no further leaks and we have been through several heavy rains since this repair. So, look at the windows where they are sealed against the outer wall surface. I think, possibly, due to the cold weather we had been in, the butyl material had shrunk, causing the gap where the water got in between the inner and outer wall of the slide.
__________________
Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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04-15-2014, 08:36 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: mars
Posts: 9
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a few months ago when we were shopping for our trailer (bought the 204rbs) i told the sales guy about our previous leaky slide experience (we had a waterfall from top to bottom on the inside of the outer slide wall) with a new Coachmen 360rk. our 360 had to go back to the factory for warranty repair. 1 day i popped in to the factory to check on their progress and saw they had removed the entire slide room for tear down and rebuild. all new gaskets, everything! quite impressive! we never had a leak problem afterwards.
it had been 19 years since then, and he assured me that "slide seal technology" had come a long way. that statement alone was enough to reassure me NOT to get a slide unit this time.
i wish you good luck with yours.
__________________
14 bullet 204 rbswe GONE thankfully! what a pos
14 5.7 hemi ram 4x2 qc, 3.92 w/lsd
14 Creekside 23rks happay-happay-happay
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04-15-2014, 08:26 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Green Valley, AZ
Posts: 782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therink
I had a leak like that once on the end of a slide. In my case it was a pinhole in the caulk that sealed the trim/molding that runs horizontally along the lower edge of the slide end wall. It was an easy fix but took a while before I figured it out.
I have also heard others leaks where as water was running around lower edge I spoke of and wicking through the fabric underside of the slide floor.
I hope you find it.
Steve
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This is exactly where we have had a leak in our Hideout. In our case, it seems like I have to continually recaulk this area. There is just some kind of movement in the slide that seems to break the seal. Someday I may take the trim off and try to really seal it, but for now I just have to keep watch on it.
__________________
Earl
2007 33.5' Arctic Fox Fifth Wheel used for full-timing for several years--now sold
2011 Hideout 23RKSWE that we now use for poking around local parks
2007 Chevy 3/4 ton diesel with Prodigy Brake Control
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04-16-2014, 02:22 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theeyres
This is exactly where we have had a leak in our Hideout. In our case, it seems like I have to continually recaulk this area. There is just some kind of movement in the slide that seems to break the seal. Someday I may take the trim off and try to really seal it, but for now I just have to keep watch on it.
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As soon as I discovered my leak, I removed the strip and placed butyl tape behind the strip, and reinstalled it. I also used caulk in the screw holes and then ran a fresh bead of caulk along the edge of the strip. Never had another problem. It was a very fix.
Steve
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04-16-2014, 09:49 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theeyres
This is exactly where we have had a leak in our Hideout. In our case, it seems like I have to continually recaulk this area. There is just some kind of movement in the slide that seems to break the seal. Someday I may take the trim off and try to really seal it, but for now I just have to keep watch on it.
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Recaulking the outer edge of the strip will not stop the leak. You'll need to do as therink said and completely remove that metal strip, remove all the old caulking/butyl stripping tape from the metal and from the slide wall. Then put a double layer of new butyl tape along the inside of the metal strip, put silicone in the screw holes in the slide wall, reinstall the strip and then once it's completely tight and the butyl that's oozed out is cleaned off, apply silicone along the top and bottom edges and over all the screws. Let that set for at least a day before you close the slide.
DO NOT settle for clay caulk stripping, use butyl. The clay caulking will dry, crack and will start leaking within a year if it is exposed to the heat of sunlight. Butyl costs about $1 more per roll, but is the only kind of caulking tape that will stand up in RV use.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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04-16-2014, 08:19 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Green Valley, AZ
Posts: 782
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Thanks for the tip. I will definitely get some butyl tape and do the fix as suggested. Re-caulking sure hasn't done the trick so will do as suggested.
__________________
Earl
2007 33.5' Arctic Fox Fifth Wheel used for full-timing for several years--now sold
2011 Hideout 23RKSWE that we now use for poking around local parks
2007 Chevy 3/4 ton diesel with Prodigy Brake Control
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05-17-2014, 04:19 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Midland Michigan
Posts: 54
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Well It's spring and you know what that means?
The leak is back!! We had no time to have it fixed again before fishing so I stayed with my cousin in his camper while my camper was worked on.
After recaulking the trim and wiring hole on the bottom "they swear that's where the water is getting in not the trim" this is also what was installed
At no charge! Keeping my fingers crossed!
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05-17-2014, 10:43 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: S.E. Michigan
Posts: 241
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Every time I hear of a RV leak I suggest the following RV Pressurized Leak Test. At General RV they do this to each RV they sell. It will find a leak ever time and it's not expensive.
Good luck.
Click here:
__________________
Bill B. (Michigan)
2014 Cougar H.C. 321RES
2007 Dodge Megacab 6.7 Cummins
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