Water Pump Cabinet

[CBears]

Has anyone redone their water pump cabinet using pex and brass fittings instead of the vinyl and plastic that comes from the factory? I've got a couple of changes I want to make and was wondering if anyone had some pictures of redesigns.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by CBears

Has anyone redone their water pump cabinet using pex and brass fittings instead of the vinyl and plastic that comes from the factory? I've got a couple of changes I want to make and was wondering if anyone had some pictures of redesigns.

It isn't clear what you refer to. Post a picture of your current items you are considering changing. I take it you refer to plumbing and not the actual cabinet the water pump sits in?

[CBears]

Correct, I saw a post from a couple years ago where someone moved the compartment to provide themselves a step. Pretty cool mod by the way. I'm talking about just reworking the cabinet itself. Specifically I'm wanting an integrated winterizing line and a second anti-backflow. But less specifically I'd rather see pex and brass than all that plastic and vinyl.

[dutchmensport]

One thing you might consider before switching over to a stiffer pipe is water hammering.

Water hammering is that loud bang, bang, bang heard coming form the water pump. Actually, it is not the pump being heard, it's the air pocket, shock wave, happening through the pipes.

The best way to silence a noisy water pump is by adding more flexible hose from the "out" side of the water pump to the water pipe, if that be PEX, PVC, Copper, or Galvanized steal. Actually, about 3 to 5 feet of hose.... like a garden hose, is what it takes to buffer that banging. That is the best solution for noisy water pumps.

By removing your "plastic" white pipes that are currently there and replace them with something solid (Just) might open a new can of worms.

Anyway, it's something you need to consider before making this change. The functionality of the pump will have no effect by removing the cover, so feel free there to change the wood work design any way you want.

Good luck!

[JRTJH]

Years ago, back in the days of copper tubing for water lines and "piston pumps" to pressurize the fresh water system, "pump noise" was a significant problem...

Manufacturers came up with an "aftermarket pump silencing kit" that consisted of two short loops of white flexible water hose that was installed on the inlet and outlet fittings of the pump. Their purpose was to "isolate pump vibration from the rest of the copper plumbing runs"... That eliminated the galley sink at the other end of the trailer from being "excessively loud" when you turned on the water to wash dishes....

What you're planning to do, with "solid plumbing runs to and from the pump to eliminate all that "vinyl and plastic that comes from the factory" is to remove the silencing kit that's OEM now (finally, after all these years of adding it after buying the trailer) and returning your water pump system to a "pre 1990 version".....

Think about it a bit before you rip out what has become a marked improvement in noise abatement when flushing the toilet at 2AM so you have what "looks to be stronger and more durable".....

[CBears]

Thank you for the replies. I appreciate them.

[GlasNav]

We have the same pump box configuration. I stuck with the reinforced clear hose for a suction line tee added independent pvc valves and use this to isolate water tank suction and a pick up tube that I drop straight into a gallon bottle of RV antifreeze after draining and blowing down the lines.
Yes, I could just mist the antifreeze thru the system with the air compressor. However, I feel much more comfortable filling all the lines which takes a little over a gallon and a half. Also installed a brass inline check valve between the tank suction and the tee. Utilizing a stainless steel nipple and pipe cap for the end of the antifreeze suction hose to avoid any messes. Only bad thing, it looks like a rats nest in that box with the additional plumbing. But, I can winterize the plumbing in a couple of minutes!

[CBears]

Originally Posted by GlasNav

We have the same pump box configuration. I stuck with the reinforced clear hose for a suction line tee added independent pvc valves and use this to isolate water tank suction and a pick up tube that I drop straight into a gallon bottle of RV antifreeze after draining and blowing down the lines.
Yes, I could just mist the antifreeze thru the system with the air compressor. However, I feel much more comfortable filling all the lines which takes a little over a gallon and a half. Also installed a brass inline check valve between the tank suction and the tee. Utilizing a stainless steel nipple and pipe cap for the end of the antifreeze suction hose to avoid any messes. Only bad thing, it looks like a rats nest in that box with the additional plumbing. But, I can winterize the plumbing in a couple of minutes!

Thanks for the reply. And it looks like we are only 50 miles or so apart. Hope the weather holds. First camping trip to Perry in a month.

[WNY Bullet]

Originally Posted by CBears

Correct, I saw a post from a couple years ago where someone moved the compartment to provide themselves a step. Pretty cool mod by the way. I'm talking about just reworking the cabinet itself. Specifically I'm wanting an integrated winterizing line and a second anti-backflow. But less specifically I'd rather see pex and brass than all that plastic and vinyl.

I believe that was my post you saw about me modifying my cabinet and replumbing the lines. I actually added more flexible lines at the time to try to quiet down the pump vibration radiating throughout the trailer. Be careful going to all rigid pipes!

[GlasNav]

Originally Posted by WNY Bullet

I believe that was my post you saw about me modifying my cabinet and replumbing the lines. I actually added more flexible lines at the time to try to quiet down the pump vibration radiating throughout the trailer. Be careful going to all rigid pipes!

Your modifications i much neater than mine. I like the addition of the strainer on the suction side. Are the braided lines big enough to support volume, they appear to be undersized for the application in the pictures?

What I did was add PVC ball valves to isolate the system as well as adding a inline check valve on the suction side from the tank.

The most important thing I added was a tee just before the pump with a ball valve going to a suction hose to draw directly from a RV antifreeze jug when winterizing.

We do all season camping as long as the temps are only down into the teens, so there is a lot of winterizing and de-winterizing performed on our unit.

I could do the blow down and antifreeze mist method, but I have a better gut feeling using a little extra just over a gallon and simply filling all the lines except for emptying and isolating the HW heater. I run the pump drawing from the jug and open each faucet, toilet flush, etc separately until everything is pink, then check the lower drops / drains to make sure they are full of pink stuff as well. This is now down to a 20 minute process. The worst time I had with this is we had just rolled home to Kansas from Christmas in Pensacola, started snowing, blowing, temps plummeting, and I'm out in the street winterizing. RVing it can be an adventure!

[CampNBrew2]

I had the same configuration as WNY Bullet above (Pump enclosure blocking bed access), except my fill line was much higher on the wall so a step would not work. I purchased a pump with a small accumulator to hopefully reduce some of the noise. I was able to cram everything in tight and move the panel to gain more space and did some other mods while there.
I was absolutely shocked that a softball sized accumulator could make the plumbing almost silent, after living with the noisy rattling plumbing for years.

Before and after pictures
Edit: I also added a longer flex hose to the pump outlet and secured the line to eliminate any torque to the outlet fitting,

https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...postcount=1459

[WNY Bullet]

Originally Posted by GlasNav

Are the braided lines big enough to support volume, they appear to be undersized for the application in the pictures?

The most important thing I added was a tee just before the pump with a ball valve going to a suction hose to draw directly from a RV antifreeze jug when winterizing.

Thanks! The braided lines work fine.

I also have a tee for winterizing right before the strainer.

[CBears]

These replies are so great and the ideas and pics help so much!!! Thank you to all for your time. I’m not sure what I’ll end up with but I want to do something.

Honestly I don’t mind the noise. I don’t want the vibration though. Most of the time I’m on city water but we use the pump for drinking water because we take water from our house along on trips. Even through the filter the water in parks tastes funny to us. I like the pump noise because it lets me know that the system doesn’t have any leaks. I turn it on several times per trip just to make sure all is well.

[GlasNav]

Curtis: We travel with a Zero Water product filtered pitcher and it works wonders, something to consider. Reference link attached, we purchased ours at Menards nearly 5 years ago. Might be cheaper thru Amazon.

https://zerowater.com/products/12-cu...?pack=2&freq=1

[rlh1957]

No pictures but yes replaced any Pex junction plastic fittings with brass or bronze. In addition I put ball valves at each sink and in the line for the shower. Any issue or maintenance can be done without complete water shut off. I put ball valves underneath at low point drains and the FW drain.
Those cheap plastic elbows and fittings are the first to crack and freeze. So it is good insurance to replace them.

[CBears]

Added a line through the outside water access panel for pulling antifreeze into the system during winterizing. I was always uncomfortable with bringing the jug into the trailer. I tend to spill things. Now I never have to have it inside at all. Just hook a short garden hose and drop it in a bucket or jug outside.

It’s the one in the middle with the white cap.