Fresh water drain valve

Eddy · 05-12-2015, 05:31 AM

Need a little help. As title reads. My plastic fresh water drain valve broke. bought a replacement (Which is the threaded type) but, ive been told that you need a high speed drill to install it??

Seems to me I'd just fit my socket yo it. Unscrew it. Put some sealeron it and screw it back on???

Can someone cast a little light on the proper way to replace this valve.

Thx.

gearhead · 05-12-2015, 05:48 AM

Are you asking about the drain valve on the tank? Is it connected directly to the tank or is it at the end of a hose?
My only experience is with a valve at the end of a hose. I just bought a valve with a barb fitting on one end. I pushed it in the hose and secured it with a hose clamp.

**hankpage** · 05-12-2015, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gearhead

Are you asking about the drain valve on the tank? Is it connected directly to the tank or is it at the end of a hose?
My only experience is with a valve at the end of a hose. I just bought a valve with a barb fitting on one end. I pushed it in the hose and secured it with a hose clamp.

X2 ..... I have never seen a valve that was installed with a drill.

bsmith0404 · 05-12-2015, 05:52 AM

I was wondering the same thing. The only reason I can see that you would need a drill is if you had to drill the hole to install a new valve where one did not previously exist. If you are swapping one for the other, direct replacement, I can't see why a drill would be required.

**chuckster57** · 05-12-2015, 05:57 AM

Valves and sensors installed at the factory are "spin welded" in. Any old drill will NOT work as the machine that installs these things spins at a precise RPM to generate the correct heat.

Eddy · 05-12-2015, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Valves and sensors installed at the factory are "spin welded" in. Any old drill will NOT work as the machine that installs these things spins at a precise RPM to generate the correct heat.

Yes. That's what I heard. It's the spigot under the camper on the fresh water tank. Generally, they are white in color.

Mine looks exactly like this one.
http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog...FciRHwod7EIAew

**chuckster57** · 05-12-2015, 07:19 AM

If your valve screws in like the one in the picture then the fitting it screws into is the piece that is "welded" in. All you need is a large EZ-OUT to remove the broken piece and then use a good plumbing thread sealer, and hand tighten the drain back in.

Eddy · 05-12-2015, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

If your valve screws in like the one in the picture then the fitting it screws into is the piece that is "welded" in. All you need is a large EZ-OUT to remove the broken piece and then use a good plumbing thread sealer, and hand tighten the drain back in.

GREAT!! Thank you very much. Thought I was going to need some special tool or something.

Has anyone used Sodium Dichoir to sanitize their fresh water tank? Thx again all!!!

**JRTJH** · 05-12-2015, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eddy

GREAT!! Thank you very much. Thought I was going to need some special tool or something.

Has anyone used Sodium Dichoir to sanitize their fresh water tank? Thx again all!!!

I'm no "proficient chemist" but sodium dichloride is a granulated chlorine often used to sanitize hot tubs and pools. The average cost seems to be around $20 for a 2 pound container. How much to use to effectively sanitize an RV fresh water system is questionable. Whether the granules will adequately dissolve or potentially get caught in the rollers of the water pump (and cause damage) is also questionable. I would first ask whether or not all the granules would dissolve rapidly or if there would be any issues with flushing the chlorine out of the water system if any granules were "left over to dissolve later. I suppose the end result "could be" the same as using the much more affordable Clorox, but I'd have to ask the question, "Why?".

Clorox has been an excellent, affordable choice for years and is still the most reliable, safe and effective way to sanitize an RV water system.

I wouldn't use a more expensive product that might damage my water pump or the plastic used in my water system, especially if there are no "clear cut" instructions from the manufacturer on how to use the product for the intended application. Clorox works very well and has proven not to damage the water system and provide the sanitary results without problems.

I suppose it all goes back to the old adage: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Eddy · 05-12-2015, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'm no "proficient chemist" but sodium dichloride is a granulated chlorine often used to sanitize hot tubs and pools. The average cost seems to be around $20 for a 2 pound container. How much to use to effectively sanitize an RV fresh water system is questionable. Whether the granules will adequately dissolve or potentially get caught in the rollers of the water pump (and cause damage) is also questionable. I would first ask whether or not all the granules would dissolve rapidly or if there would be any issues with flushing the chlorine out of the water system if any granules were "left over to dissolve later. I suppose the end result "could be" the same as using the much more affordable Clorox, but I'd have to ask the question, "Why?".

Clorox has been an excellent, affordable choice for years and is still the most reliable, safe and effective way to sanitize an RV water system.

I wouldn't use a more expensive product that might damage my water pump or the plastic used in my water system, especially if there are no "clear cut" instructions from the manufacturer on how to use the product for the intended application. Clorox works very well and has proven not to damage the water system and provide the sanitary results without problems.

I suppose it all goes back to the old adage: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

Thank you for that great explanation. just wondering about that sodium dichoir. I did only use Clorox. 1/4 cup for every 15 gallons of water. Drove around 20 minutes and finish up today.

Like you said. If it ain't broke. Don't fix it.

jimmyv13 · 06-21-2015, 09:18 AM

Eddy...how did your repair go? I will be going through the same repair shortly as the lever broke on my drain valve. It still works, but I just need to use pliers to move the petcock. Upon a quick inspection of the valve itself, it appears as if the valve simply threads into the bottom of the tank. Was yours like this too?

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