Help needed with Coroplast.

[mybluox]

Good morning all,

This is about a 2008 RP3812 Raptor.

While back washing my black tank I heard a noise and a pop, then water started flowing from the coroplast <sp>. I'm hoping that something popped off from the black tank and I don't have to replace it.

The help I'm requesting is how is the best way to drop the coroplast? Do I need to remove the whole 40 foot sheet or can I drop part of it to get to the black tank area? From what I'm seeing, I'll have to remove the whole sheet which will be a pain in the butt. I could use all your advise on how to do this.
BTW: It's a single person operation.

Thanks in advance.

[gkainz]

I dropped the front 1/3 of my coroplast for some work I wanted to do. Backed out the screws, dropped the front and rolled it back under itself to do the work. Replaced with stainless self-tapping screws.

I've read a lot of folks cutting 3 sided flaps in theirs where they need smaller access, then taping it back up with gorilla tape or similar.

[gearhead]

Expect a few of the screw heads to twist off. If you have a Fastenal store nearby they should have the Stainless Steel self drilling self tapping screws. They will likely come with a thick washer that, I think, is used on metal buildings. I didn't use that and instead used stainless steel fender washers.

[chuckster57]

I have started at whatever end is closer and just start removing screws until you can get to the area you need to. Once your done you can start at the “attached” end and just work your way back. I have had as much as 30’ laying on the ground.

[mjeronimo]

Flushing+loud bang+water pouring from coroplast = you cracked the tank. Exactly what happened to my cousins trailer, I was there heard and saw the whole thing (his was under warranty) hope I’m wrong for your sake.

[chunker]

GFs Crusader 5th wheel had a similar situation that when I was black tank flushing, water began coming from places it shouldn't. Coroplast was sagging noticeably and I could feel heavy pressure down. What had happened is the tank slipped from the side brackets down onto the coroplast and partially separated the tank outlet by the gate valve. Underbelly was filled with poop. I found a low spot on the coroplast, put a tub under it and split it with a knife making sure not to go into a tank. You know what flowed out. After 2-3 bucket brigade operations I got the flow stopped. I then cut back the coroplast large enough to see what was happening. When things dried I used jacks and ratchet straps to secure the tank and after a good shower, took to a good repair facility.

Turns out tank was still good and they re-seated it in the mounting channels, added a welded brace to make it stronger than from the factory and of course reattached and resealed the outlet to the gate valve. Had I tried to drop the front and work back, I would have bathed in intestinal recycled food products.

EDIT; repair facility further cut away the coroplast to make a suitable patch.

[mybluox]

Hey all,

Just wanted to say thanks for all the help. It turned out the black tank was split at the top seal. I got it out and have a new tank and parts on order. That wasn't as easy as I would like. $130 shipping just for the 10Lb tank. (Cheapest I could find) Go figure. I don't look forward to installing the new tank. I'm sure I'll have to buy new tools ( such as hole saws).

Jeff

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by mybluox

Hey all,

Just wanted to say thanks for all the help. It turned out the black tank was split at the top seal. I got it out and have a new tank and parts on order. That wasn't as easy as I would like. $130 shipping just for the 10Lb tank. (Cheapest I could find) Go figure. I don't look forward to installing the new tank. I'm sure I'll have to buy new tools ( such as hole saws).

Jeff

Jeff,

Many Home Depot stores have a tool rental department. You may be able to rent those "one time use" tools there for a couple dollars. Much cheaper than buying them for a one time need....

[mybluox]

Since I'm changing my black tank. I'm going to use rubber grommets for the 3" and 1 1/2" lines. Does anyone know what size hole saw I would need for this? I have a 4" and a 2 1/2" hole saw which is too big. I also have a 3 5/8" and 2 1/8" which are too small.. I'm at a loss here and need exact help.

Thanks

[Hblick48]

I purchased hole saw kit from Harbor Freight when I had to replace my black tank.

https://www.harborfreight.com/34-in-...-pc-68115.html

Just have to take it slow and easy when drilling the tank. Otherwise you melt the plastic rather than cut it.

I used the rubber grommets, and kit had correct size for both. Important to completely seat the grommets. Prior to installing grommets, fit it to the pipe and seat it fully. Mark that on the pipe so you will know it's fully seated when installing in tank. I used some dishwashing liquid for lubricant.

[footz1941]

If you drop the coraplast when you get ready to put it back make a T shaped dead man from scrap lumber. Makes it easier to lineup the holes for screws

[KRumm]

You may be lucky and your black tank flush hose has popped off of the black tank (then the water leak is just fresh water and not sewer water)... Note the black tank flush is usually attached into the end of the tank opposite of where the black tank exit pvc is attached...

[bobbecky]

This is a photo of how our black tank flush hose is attached to our tank.

[BulletOwner1]

This reply may be too late but here goes.

When I dropped the coroplast on my Bullet some years ago I did not take notice when removing the screws. Some were shorter than others. I figured, out too late, there was a reason for that. The short ones were located where the fresh water tank rested on the frame. I installed a normal sized screw in that location an punched the neatest little hole in the tank.

Had to repair the tank, find the SHORT screw and start over. I got it done but not as quickly as I intended.