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05-18-2015, 08:35 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Central Iowa
Posts: 19
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Bottle Jack
I've got a trip to South Dakota planned and I'm doing all my "worst case" scenario planning. Tries on the 2920BH are a year old and look good as does the spare and I keep them covered when I store it (outside) in the winter. I don't plan on any issues *but* debris, etc is always a concern. I have a bottle jack and I think that should suffice if I need to replace a tire on the trailer but wanted to see what some of you more seasoned vets think.
Thanks in advance,
--Tony
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05-18-2015, 08:50 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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Yes, I carry a bottle jack, plenty blocks of wood, 3/4" drive socket with extention to remove lugs and a torque wrench.
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05-18-2015, 08:52 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Las Cruces
Posts: 4,665
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I carry/use a bottle jack as well (12 ton), but test the height. I also have to carry a wooden block which I made with 2x10s. I have 6 of them screwed together to give me the height I need to raise my camper.
__________________
Brent
2013 Alpine 3500RE
2019 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
U.S. Air Force Retired (25 yrs)
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05-18-2015, 09:28 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Germantown, TN
Posts: 6,331
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IA, the most frequent bit of advice given on here concerning changing a flat is this: Actually park your trailer in a parking lot or in your drive and change a tire. (Also keep in mind that the axle is going to be about 5 inches lower because the tire will be FLAT! ) That way you know what you're up against.
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Jim in Memphis, Wife of 51 years is Brenda
2019 F450 6.7 Powerstroke
2018 Mobile Suites 40RSSA
2021 40' Jayco Eagle
2001 Road king w/matching Harley sidecar
2021 Yamaha X2 Wolverine 1000
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05-18-2015, 11:47 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,343
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Along with a jack and wrenches, I now carry a small metal saw. I had a blow out in '09 just east of Terra Haute. The tire shredded and wrapped itself around the backing plate. I ended up using a serrated kitchen knife and spent a little more than an hour cutting tire off enough to remove the rim and what was left.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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05-18-2015, 10:25 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Box Elder
Posts: 2,909
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I purchased a kit of hydraulic jack accessories from BMI, their Safejack line. USA made and very solid, eliminates the unsafe need for a stack of blocks to jack a trailer or other vehicle. http://safejacks.com/collections/bot...ck-accessories
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Bob & Becky
2012 3402 Montana
2012 Chevy 2500HD D/A CC
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05-19-2015, 08:51 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Beaverton
Posts: 309
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I would add to the above an AC/DC tire compressor as the spare is almost always low on PSI, a camco trailer aid 21 tandem tire changer, it is light and it works. Also for those who use any type of hydraulic jack to lift their trailer or truck, these units are lifting devices only; they are not meant to hold a load safely. Get it up in the air and then use a stand or blocks before getting your body under any part that can come down if the jack fails.
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2012 Cougar TT, 24RKSWE, 27'
2012 Tundra 4.6V8, 2wd, dbl cab
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05-22-2015, 02:29 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by therink
Yes, I carry a bottle jack, plenty blocks of wood, 3/4" drive socket with extention to remove lugs and a torque wrench.
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Just noticed you mentioned a 3/4" drive wrench. Did you mean 1/2" drive? 3/4" is pretty big for the task.
__________________
Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
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05-22-2015, 04:11 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 1,605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert185
Just noticed you mentioned a 3/4" drive wrench. Did you mean 1/2" drive? 3/4" is pretty big for the task.
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Oops, yes meant 1/2"
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05-26-2015, 02:41 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Posts: 26
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also make sure your bottle jack will fit underneath the axle when flat and isnt too tall. we had our first blowout within the first 3 hours of driving and i found out rather quickly i didnt have the right socket and the bottle jack in my truck was about 5" too tall to fit underneath since the tire was blown out.
just what we went thru earlier this year.
__________________
2003 Dodge Ram 5.9 Cummins Dually
2010 Fuzion 383 Touring Edition II #12 of 500
Traveling the country one race track at a time!
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05-26-2015, 04:03 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Baltimore, MI
Posts: 36
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I carry a bottle jack and use my lego blocks to reach the frame. I've had 2 flats and for both I used the tire changing ramp I bought. Best $30 I ever spent. All I do is put the ramp on a 2x6 and drive up. Tire that requires changing is off the ground.
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2011 Ram Club 4x4
6.7 Cummins High Output
2012 Montana 313RE
Pull Rite Hitch
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05-26-2015, 06:00 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 375
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Keep in mind that Lippert and Dexter (folks who make the axles for most rv trailers) both say don't jack on the axle; only use the frame. Obviously, that means more blocks to reach the frame with your jack.
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05-31-2015, 08:49 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Nevada
Posts: 2,695
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That's true, but you aren't raising the trailer, you are only jacking on the axle u-bolt just inside the brake drum to compress the spring enough to change the tire. If this is all you jack, then the axle won't be damaged.
To give yourself enough clearance for changing the tire, this may be necessary on the adjacent tire to provide more lift:
http://www.andersenhitches.com/Produ...apid-jack.aspx
When I installed wetbolts, the trailer frame didn't need to be lifted at all, BTW.
__________________
Desert185 🇺🇸 (Retired Chemtrail vendor)
-Ram 2500 QC, LB, 4x4, Cummins HO/exhaust brake, 6-speed stick.
-Andersen Ultimate 24K 5er Hitch.
-2014 Cougar 326SRX, Maxxis tires w/TPMS, wet bolts, two 6v batts.
-Four Wheel 8' Popup Camper.
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05-31-2015, 12:00 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chico, California
Posts: 296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbell
Keep in mind that Lippert and Dexter (folks who make the axles for most rv trailers) both say don't jack on the axle; only use the frame. Obviously, that means more blocks to reach the frame with your jack.
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I will never understand the logic (or lack thereof ) in jacking it up by the frame. Talk about a concentrated stress point. Lifting it by the axle keeps the pressure points where they belong. From what I've seen from Lippert, they actually know very little about engineering or building trailer frames. My last trailer had multiple shears built into it where the spring hangers were welded on without gussets, directly abeam the body mounts. Of course the frame cracked and of course they had no idea what I was talking about. Interestingly enough, the next year they started gusseting the suspension attach points. I have my own farm/fab shop so I repaired and modified it myself since it was just (like 1 month) out of warranty and Lippert had zero interest in fixing it. Also their weld quality is universally poor. My fifteen year old son is a far better welder/fabricator than anybody Lippert has on staff. Sorry for going somewhat off topic. Rant over.
PS -- As far as the axle being low due to the flat, back it up on a couple 2x6s before jacking it up.
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2011 F-350 C.C. 4X4 LWB 6.7PSD
2010 Montana Mountaineer 345DBQ
2005 F150 FX4
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05-31-2015, 12:23 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Las Cruces
Posts: 4,665
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I think the main concern they have with jacking on the axle is jacking in the middle of the axle not where the springs attach. The axle tubes are not meant to lift the RV and will bend. Yes the attaching point at the spring already supports the weight and by jacking at the spring it is essentially spreading the weight across to the frame at the spring attachment points. Personally, I just prefer to jack at the frame with a bottle jack, I can do that either ahead or behind the tire (depending if it is front or rear axle) without having to get in behind the tire. A bottle jack is small/compact and easy to carry with me.
__________________
Brent
2013 Alpine 3500RE
2019 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
U.S. Air Force Retired (25 yrs)
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05-31-2015, 03:31 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Golden Co
Posts: 367
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If you go the jack the frame route, be aware that the springs will droop, and you will need to lift more than you think.
I'm a belt and suspenders type of guy. I carry a trailer aid ramp and a bottle jack.
It's also a good idea to carry a breaker bar for your socket. Keeps you from having to jump up and down on your ratchet.
Remember to check the lug torque. Several times after a tire change.
__________________
Mark S.
2014 Cougar 318SAB
2015 Silverado 3500HD 6.6L Diesel 4WD CC SB
18K Pullright Hitch
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06-02-2015, 09:11 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 552
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I bought an 8ton unit and used it to take all 4 wheels off while it sat in our gravel storage spot, in order to have the tires changed. Placing it under each of the u-bolts, it worked like a charm to quickly lift that end of the axle.
Always good to practice somewhere near home before yo uhave to do it on the side of the road at night in the rain
__________________
2013 Passport 3220BHWE, upgrade axles, Kumho Radial 857's, all LED, TST507 TPMS, Reese DCSC, DIY corner stabilizers
2012 Ram 1500 Sport crew cab, Hemi, 4x4, 3.92 LSD, factory brake controller, S&B CAI w/scoop, Moroso air/oil can, 87mm ported/polished/knife-edged throttle body, Magnaflow exhaust, 180* t-stat, Rear lowered 2", Airlift 1000.
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09-04-2015, 03:59 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: victorville ca nxt des arc ar
Posts: 73
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Call me crazy but I thought a bottle jack was gay. I use a 3ton floor jack. Is that not needed? If not ill switch to a bottle. I always thought they were dangerous.
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2005 Duramax 4X4 Lb, Arp studs, EFI Live, turbo dp, cat delete, str pipe, Mike L trans cooler, PPe deep trans pan, Lbz Mouthpiece, PPE Ported fuel rails/Guages
20K Curt hitch
5K airbags
2013 Keyston Cougar 333MKS
2 15K BTU AC's
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09-04-2015, 05:12 PM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 97
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Well call me crazy too but after changing a tire on the side of the hiway I ponied up the 3 bucks to my insurance for roadside assist. Yes they take an hour or two to get there but Ill get a coke out of the cooler, a chair, and a cigar and just wait for them. I still carry a bottlejack but never use it. Same with my truck. 3 bucks a month? Ill wait.
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Exsailor from MS
2008 35 Ft Montana
2012 GMC Duramax Diesel
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09-04-2015, 06:40 PM
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#20
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,343
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To each their own. Since I travel with cats, I can't sit on the side of the road for a long time. The sooner I'm leveled and slides out, the sooner they settle in.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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