Flat tire on the road.

[natedog_37]

Ok question .

Coming from a popup to a Full size TT.

with the popup I carried a normal automotive jack along with tools etc just in case a tire blow out. Always had a spare or 2 depending on how far from home.


With the new TT I have a spare on back but will a normal auto jack work? Is there a jock point like a car has? Guessing I need my own jack, and tools to do this any help though input would be great.

Starting to build up my new tool box for the TT.

[GaryWT]

Luckily, knock on wood, I have needed to but I figure I would either drive the good tire up on linx levelers to change the tire or use the truck jack under the axle.

[chuckster57]

An auto jack will work as long it is rated to lift the weight on one tire. There isn't any jack points molded into the frame. Lift the flat tire using the point where the springs are attached as the jack point.

There are ramps on the market that allow you to pull your "good" tire on it and it will lift the flat. Since I tow with a 1 ton dually, I know my jack will lift my trailer axle.

[natedog_37]

not sure driving the good tire up would work since they are separate axles. But a good idea to keep in mind. The jack should work I use to use it on the truck. Great tips thanks

[JRTJH]

Whatever method you decide is the one to use, I urge you to try it at home in the driveway before you make the final decision that "It'll work this way"....

Whether it's pulling the adjacent wheel up on blocks, using the truck jack, using a hydraulic bottle jack or buying one of the commercial "ramp systems", that's only a part of the process. You need a lug wrench that fits the lugs on the trailer, a socket or other wrench to remove the spare tire from the carrier, and possibly other tools as well.

It's quite likely that the bottle jack you tried "under the tire" to jack the axle won't fit if the tire has no air in it and the axle is closer to the ground. Then again, if you plan to elevate the flat tire by using the frame as a jack point, is the truck jack "tall enough" to raise the frame? If not, do you have enough blocks to get the correct lift height?

Even if you can get the flat tire elevated to change, will the spare (fully inflated) fit on the hub at the same height? Do you have a method to loosen the lugs?

The only way to know "for sure" that you have what you need is to do a tire change in the driveway and then put all of the equipment that you used in the trailer or tow vehicle. Then, should the "bad" happen, you'll be relatively assured of having what you need, in addition to a jack that works.

Good Luck

[hankpage]

All of the above is good information but, I find the best way is to get clear of the road and call an emergency road service like Good Sam ERS or AAA. I carry all the tools and blocking but I also belong to ERS just in case. It covers any vehicle I own or drive. If you are going to do it yourself, make sure you are comfortable doing it under poor conditions and make safety #1. JM2¢, Hank

[EricLynnAllison]

With my trailer, I used 6 2x8 squares, making a ramp of one, then two, then three, removing them under the flat tire as I moved up on each set. Lifted flat completely off the ground. Quick and easy without having to get under the trailer. Try it in your driveway and see if you get enough lift.

[zuley]

There have been a few previous posts on this. Do a Youtube search of "Trailer Aid". Upon viewing the video I ordered one for myself. More expensive than using 2 by 8's but certainly safer and easier IMO. Used it in my drive to lube my bearings. It worked great. Heres hoping I never have to use it on the road.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by hankpage

All of the above is good information but, I find the best way is to get clear of the road and call an emergency road service like Good Sam ERS or AAA. I carry all the tools and blocking but I also belong to ERS just in case. It covers any vehicle I own or drive. If you are going to do it yourself, make sure you are comfortable doing it under poor conditions and make safety #1. JM2¢, Hank

I have Allstate and in '09 I got a flat on the rear curbside tire, East bound about a half hour out of Terra Haute. By the time the truck showed up, I had the tire off, replaced and headed to the next exit.I had to use a serrated steak knife to cut the tread off where it wrapped around the back side of the backing plate. The tow truck was an old smoking, limping diesel...I doubt he could have even pulled my truck let alone anything involving the trailer.

My point is, make sure you can do it yourself, just in case you get a yahoo like I did 1 1/2 hours later.

[natedog_37]

I agree that it is nice to have some on do it, but there is always the case where why wait when I can. I am a hands on person if I can do it I will.

Great advice thank you. I will 100% do a try run when the trailer is back at the house.

[notanlines]

Let me pass this on to those of you who might be inclined to pay Camping World $70.00 for a commercial "Trailer Aid." If you're hauling a 20 footer it might, just might get your flat off the ground. If you are pulling a Cougar, Raptor or the like you will be out of luck. Go with the earlier suggestion of 6 or 7 layers of tapered 2x8's. We had TWO blowouts yesterday on our way to Florida. My aluminum trusty floor jack would not lift the axle enough to change the tire either time. A combination of 2x10's 18" and 12" stacked did just great.

[gearhead]

The TrailerAid Plus worked great on my 15" Cougar wheels. I put a 1x6 under it for the Montana 16" wheels.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Trai...ellow/29764294

[CWtheMan]

This is a quote from the Keystone owner's manual; "Position a hydraulic jack on the frame close to the spring hanger." They don't want you to use the axle.

I have a dually truck that has a hefty bottle jack. It's always worked for me. The drive on aid already mentioned will work well depending on the surface of the area you have available for the change. I just drive my good tire up on a couple of leveling blocks.

I've not had a problem using the frame as recommended by keystone and I've changed my share of tires doing so.

CW

[audio1der]

Originally Posted by zuley

There have been a few previous posts on this. Do a Youtube search of "Trailer Aid". Upon viewing the video I ordered one for myself. More expensive than using 2 by 8's but certainly safer and easier IMO. Used it in my drive to lube my bearings. It worked great. Heres hoping I never have to use it on the road.

Do you have spread axles?
Last summer I tried to make ramps out of my 14 Lynx levelers, and it was not enough to get any single tire to clear the ground.
I need to find a safe solution to carry with us; I'd buy the Trailer aid + in a heartbeat if it will will lift a spread axle.

[bsmith0404]

This has been discussed to death, but I'll add one more thought. I like to use the bottle jack on the frame with 8 2x8s stacked under it. The reason....When I put it under the frame, it lifts the entire side of the camper and I can spin both wheels from one jacking point. I use this method to grease the bearings and don't see any reason to have multiple systems. The whole thing fits nicely in the front storage.

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by CWtheMan

This is a quote from the Keystone owner's manual; "Position a hydraulic jack on the frame close to the spring hanger." They don't want you to use the axle.

I have a dually truck that has a hefty bottle jack. It's always worked for me. The drive on aid already mentioned will work well depending on the surface of the area you have available for the change. I just drive my good tire up on a couple of leveling blocks.

I've not had a problem using the frame as recommended by keystone and I've changed my share of tires doing so.

CW

I went through this jacking process when I installed a wetbolt kit a few months ago. If jacking the frame, you have to jack enough (a lot) for the springs to extend before the wheel clears the ground. If jacking the axle at the spring attach u-bolts, very little jacking has to be done, and you aren't lifting the trailer (less jack capacity required). You are only lifting the wheel by compressing the spring a short distance. Logically, this is the best method.

Even though Keystone may dictate jacking at the frame, I will probably keep jacking on the axle u-bolt despite having another company's version of a Trailer Aid (which works very well on my car hauler). This seems to be the safest method, particularly if having to do so on a soft, roadside shoulder. I have the Good Sam ERS program, but rely on myself as a backup...just in case.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by Desert185

I went through this jacking process when I installed a wetbolt kit a few months ago. If jacking the frame, you have to jack enough (a lot) for the springs to extend before the wheel clears the ground. If jacking the axle at the spring attach u-bolts, very little jacking has to be done, and you aren't lifting the trailer (less jack capacity required). You are only lifting the wheel by compressing the spring a short distance. Logically, this is the best method.

Even though Keystone may dictate jacking at the frame, I will probably keep jacking on the axle u-bolt despite having another company's version of a Trailer Aid (which works very well on my car hauler). This seems to be the safest method, particularly if having to do so on a soft, roadside shoulder. I have the Good Sam ERS program, but rely on myself as a backup...just in case.

Based on what I have found, Keystone recommends jacking on the frame because that is what Dexter recommends. Dexter recommends the frame because they cannot guarantee the shackles and other hardware used to mount the axles are sturdy enough since they do not control what hardware is used by different trailer manufacturers. The u-bolt method should be safe, I've used that method many times with other trailers, but for me it's so much easier to place a bottle jack under the frame vs getting back in under the axle. I like bottle jack because it is compact and easy to pack in the front storage area.

[audio1der]

2 follow-up questions:
Do you just stack wood under the bottle jack until it's nearly touching the frame?

Has anyone ever heard of a 'Barker wedge jack', an oblong-shaped device you place under the frame near the affected wheel, and then by pulling forward it lifts the trailer up? A local dealer claims to have access to these but I can't find anything online. He claimed it is made of aluminium, with a rubber edge which sits on the road so as to be non-skid... It almost seems to be too good to be true. I need to play nice to see if they'll bring it in without a deposit.

[Hercules1978]

Audio1der,
1. That's how I would do it, although using my leveling Legos.

2. These we originally developed for utility and small boat trailers. I would research the capabilities before the audition. most axel manufacturers do not recommend lifting anywhere on the axel.

[notanlines]

Of course a manufacturer wouldn't want anyone jacking on the axle. They are afraid some fool will start in the middle of the axle.