Fridge check light

[Rileyb_19]

So recently my DOMETIC 2652 fridge check light came on, but not fully on it just dimly glows. The fridge/freezer is still working normally on 120v. I’ve replaced the display circuit board, no change. I’ve checked the DC voltage all good. The heating element works as it gets hot, along with the heat exchanger being warm. At this point I’m stumped. Any tips would be welcomed. I understand the check light is just for the LP side of things but still an irritant seeing it on.

[ChuckS]

Service manual link -- since 12 vdc measured good I would be reseating all connections to the lower board if not already done

https://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.c...ual-RM2652.pdf

If not already reviewed look at the TS chart for Check lite ON...

[Rileyb_19]

Well I went back out today and started shooting wires and connections. Figured out it does indeed run off propane properly, but the “CHECK” was still dimly glowing. Everything passed with flying colors, all components were within specifications in terms of ohm’s and voltage, no dirty AC leaking over. Still can’t figure it out.

I’m gonna say something on the board somewhere fused together or a relay contact switch is stuck closed. Might try my luck and ordering a replacement controller board (lower). I wish could figure out what component exactly throws the “CHECK” light on. I’m not exactly so good at reading wiring diagrams.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Rileyb_19

Well I went back out today and started shooting wires and connections. Figured out it does indeed run off propane properly, but the “CHECK” was still dimly glowing. Everything passed with flying colors, all components were within specifications in terms of ohm’s and voltage, no dirty AC leaking over. Still can’t figure it out.

I’m gonna say something on the board somewhere fused together or a relay contact switch is stuck closed. Might try my luck and ordering a replacement controller board (lower). I wish could figure out what component exactly throws the “CHECK” light on. I’m not exactly so good at reading wiring diagrams.

Just thinking "outside the box" for this, but is it possible that the CHECK LED is actually not on, but that there's "light leakage" from the other LED on the panel "bleeding through" to the lens, making it look like the CHECK light is on when it's really not on ????

We had many (did I say so many we couldn't ignore them) "false alarms" on some early panels in another type of system, and when we "dug under the covers" we found out that the "rubber boot around that LED had been compressed (installed wrong) and light from another LED was making it look like the alarm LED was on, but actually, when disassembled from the faceplate, that LED was not illuminating at all....

Might not be your problem, but ........

So, if the LED is on when looking at the "raw panel", then more troubleshooting might be needed, but if, when you take the faceplate off the refrigerator eyebrow panel, if the LED is not on, then the panel may be working correctly and the issue is a "physical light leak" not a "electronic problem"....

[Rileyb_19]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Just thinking "outside the box" for this, but is it possible that the CHECK LED is actually not on, but that there's "light leakage" from the other LED on the panel "bleeding through" to the lens, making it look like the CHECK light is on when it's really not on ????

We had many (did I say so many we couldn't ignore them) "false alarms" on some early panels in another type of system, and when we "dug under the covers" we found out that the "rubber boot around that LED had been compressed (installed wrong) and light from another LED was making it look like the alarm LED was on, but actually, when disassembled from the faceplate, that LED was not illuminating at all....

Might not be your problem, but ........

So, if the LED is on when looking at the "raw panel", then more troubleshooting might be needed, but if, when you take the faceplate off the refrigerator eyebrow panel, if the LED is not on, then the panel may be working correctly and the issue is a "physical light leak" not a "electronic problem"....

Bad display board shot some more wires. Leaking voltage on the board side not the wires that connect