What are these?

[derowe82]

Hey all, wondering that these are and what you would call them. It appears to me by a Google search that they 12v to 30A converters?

I have a 30A service on my trailer... What would I need to purchase to replace them?

Thanks for any info.
Attachment 41399Attachment 41400

[chuckster57]

Those are called circuit breakers. They are rated by amps, and come in both manual reset and automatic reset.

You can get them at a local auto parts store, or probably a big box hardware store. I would get the auto reset, just pay attention to the posts as one will be battery (feed) side and the other aux (load). Disconnect the battery before replacing them.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Those are called circuit breakers. They are rated by amps, and come in both manual reset and automatic reset.



You can get them at a local auto parts store, or probably a big box hardware store. I would get the auto reset, just pay attention to the posts as one will be battery (feed) side and the other aux (load). Disconnect the battery before replacing them.

Thanks. So do I get 12v to 30A. Are they rated by amps?

[chuckster57]

Yes. They are 12V and the rating should be embossed/printed on the circuit breaker. Do not get a higher rated, replace with the same.

I would definitely clean or replace the eyelet ends.

[flybouy]

You are confusing the 30amp 12vdc breaker with the 30amp 120vac shore power. A CONVERTER (which you have connected to the power distribution center inside your trailer) converts 120vac to 12vdc. The circuit breakers in your picture are 12vdc only and are there to protect 12vdc circuits like your slide out motor.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by flybouy

You are confusing the 30amp 12vdc breaker with the 30amp 120vac shore power. A CONVERTER (which you have connected to the power distribution center inside your trailer) converts 120vac to 12vdc. The circuit breakers in your picture are 12vdc only and are there to protect 12vdc circuits like your slide out motor.

Thanks for the reply. So when I search for 12V breaker for camper on Amazon, I get this... https://www.amazon.com/Gloaso-Automa...l%2C225&sr=1-8


This is why I was asking about the 30A. I don't see just a 12V breaker.


Also, this is off topic, but will 110V 15A household power run my slide, or does the battery need to be used as well. I tried running slide in the other day just off household plug and no dice. I read somewhere where there is a VAC switch to allow battery to be used with 110V??? Any info on that?

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by flybouy

You are confusing the 30amp 12vdc breaker with the 30amp 120vac shore power. A CONVERTER (which you have connected to the power distribution center inside your trailer) converts 120vac to 12vdc. The circuit breakers in your picture are 12vdc only and are there to protect 12vdc circuits like your slide out motor.

Thanks for the reply. So when I search for 12V breaker for camper on Amazon, I get this... https://www.amazon.com/Gloaso-Automa...l%2C225&sr=1-8


This is why I was asking about the 30A. I don't see just a 12V breaker.


Also, this is off topic, but will 110V 15A household power run my slide, or does the battery need to be used as well. I tried running slide in the other day just off household plug and no dice. I read somewhere where there is a Vdc switch to allow battery to be used with 110V??? Any info on that?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Thanks for the reply. So when I search for 12V breaker for camper on Amazon, I get this... https://www.amazon.com/Gloaso-Automa...l%2C225&sr=1-8


This is why I was asking about the 30A. I don't see just a 12V breaker.


Also, this is off topic, but will 110V 15A household power run my slide, or does the battery need to be used as well. I tried running slide in the other day just off household plug and no dice. I read somewhere where there is a VAC switch to allow battery to be used with 110V??? Any info on that?

Opening the link it states "Gloaso 12V - 24V DC 30 Amp Type 1 Automatic Reset Circuit Breakers with Cover T1 30A Auto Reset Breaker 2 Pack" The 12v-24v DC is the operating voltage range, the 30 Amp is the maximum load at that voltage. Do not operate the slides without a charged battery in the circuit or you WILL ruin the converter.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Opening the link it states "Gloaso 12V - 24V DC 30 Amp Type 1 Automatic Reset Circuit Breakers with Cover T1 30A Auto Reset Breaker 2 Pack" The 12v-24v DC is the operating voltage range, the 30 Amp is the maximum load at that voltage. Do not operate the slides without a charged battery in the circuit or you WILL ruin the converter.

Thanks for the reply. So I am guessing that is the proper breakers? As seen in the picture, they are nasty looking so want to replace them. Also, need to replace the battery as well. I ran my slide out a couple weeks ago with the battery hooked to my vehicle via jumper cables. I tried to run it in on regular power, not knowing the power/battery issue. Hopefully I didn't destroy anything. I actually ended up pushing the slide in by hand, while daughter pressed slide button.


Battery is bad and needs to be replaced. Never know about the battery being needed for slide, even when plugged into power.

[chuckster57]

Your slide motor is 12VDC. It gets its power from the battery, and when plugged into shore power the converter helps. If your plugged into shore power and the battery is bad, your converter is trying to power the motor by itself and may not have enough oomph to do it along with everything else it’s powering.

[bobbecky]

This is the label on our main panel next to the slide switch. They would not spend the money placing a label like this if it wasn't very important.

[peanut]

Since you reference a 20 year old TT in your signature, I am guessing that you don't have an owners manual. RV owners manuals are (very) generic and (usually) are not model specific. They also don't discuss individual components such as refrigerators or air conditioners or microwaves except in broad terms - so you need to find the brand specific owners manuals for those individually. Still, the manuals have a lot of useful information.

The oldest Keystone manual I could find is 2005 but it isn't that far removed from your 2001 Sprinter. It will have a lot of info for you. For example, the section on slide-outs warns that your battery should be fully charged BEFORE operating the slide (chapter 8, page 50).

https://keystone-rv-dealer-app.cdn.p...sed+090105.pdf

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Thanks for the reply. So I am guessing that is the proper breakers? As seen in the picture, they are nasty looking so want to replace them. Also, need to replace the battery as well. I ran my slide out a couple weeks ago with the battery hooked to my vehicle via jumper cables. I tried to run it in on regular power, not knowing the power/battery issue. Hopefully I didn't destroy anything. I actually ended up pushing the slide in by hand, while daughter pressed slide button.


Battery is bad and needs to be replaced. Never know about the battery being needed for slide, even when plugged into power.

The existing breakers should be stamped with an Amp rating. 30 Amp is a common capacity for slides. The slide motor requires many amps above 30 for a second to get get it moving. The duration of this surge isn't long enough to trip the breaker but the converter isn't capable of producing that much current even for a short amount of time. The battery stores a great deal of energy which it can release in a short burst. When you install your new battery connect a volt meter and record the voltage with the trailer not plugged into shore power and when it's connected to shore power.

If you store the trailer without being plugged into shore power then remove the battery. If you don't then parasitic loads will drain down the battery in about a week. If you store the trailer with shore power connected 24/7 then check the battery electrolyte about every 4 to 6 weeks and add distilled water only if the level is low.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Your slide motor is 12VDC. It gets its power from the battery, and when plugged into shore power the converter helps. If your plugged into shore power and the battery is bad, your converter is trying to power the motor by itself and may not have enough oomph to do it along with everything else it’s powering.

Thanks for the reply, and yes I found that out the hard way. I am new to slides, and guess would have never thought that a battery would be needed when shore power is connected. Thanks

Originally Posted by bobbecky

This is the label on our main panel next to the slide switch. They would not spend the money placing a label like this if it wasn't very important.

Hey, thanks for the replay. Yea my old trailer doesn't have that sticker anywhere. Would be nice though. LOL

Originally Posted by peanut

Since you reference a 20 year old TT in your signature, I am guessing that you don't have an owners manual. RV owners manuals are (very) generic and (usually) are not model specific. They also don't discuss individual components such as refrigerators or air conditioners or microwaves except in broad terms - so you need to find the brand specific owners manuals for those individually. Still, the manuals have a lot of useful information.

The oldest Keystone manual I could find is 2005 but it isn't that far removed from your 2001 Sprinter. It will have a lot of info for you. For example, the section on slide-outs warns that your battery should be fully charged BEFORE operating the slide (chapter 8, page 50).

https://keystone-rv-dealer-app.cdn.p...sed+090105.pdf

Thanks for the manual, I will use that for now jut for basic information. I pushed the slide out in, but now I know I have to use the battery, I will run it back out jumped to my vehicle. I thought something was jacked up. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by flybouy

The existing breakers should be stamped with an Amp rating. 30 Amp is a common capacity for slides. The slide motor requires many amps above 30 for a second to get get it moving. The duration of this surge isn't long enough to trip the breaker but the converter isn't capable of producing that much current even for a short amount of time. The battery stores a great deal of energy which it can release in a short burst. When you install your new battery connect a volt meter and record the voltage with the trailer not plugged into shore power and when it's connected to shore power.

If you store the trailer without being plugged into shore power then remove the battery. If you don't then parasitic loads will drain down the battery in about a week. If you store the trailer with shore power connected 24/7 then check the battery electrolyte about every 4 to 6 weeks and add distilled water only if the level is low.

Awesome, thanks for the reply. Yea I didn't realize any of that. Good info. I am now wondering if the battery charge is just drained, and now actually a bad battery. TT was sitting in a storage unit outside, not plugged in to shore power.



So, I now need to ask this. Right now my whole breaker panel is off. There are about 6 breakers in the panel. If I remember right, one of them said 12vdc (or 12something) on it. Would I need to flip that breaker in order for the shore power to start slowly "charging" the battery, or can that panel be off and battery charge just by being plugged in???


Sorry for being so NEW to this stuff. Haven't had a camper since I was a young buck, and that was my dad's 1986 Holiday Rambler.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Thanks for the reply, and yes I found that out the hard way. I am new to slides, and guess would have never thought that a battery would be needed when shore power is connected. Thanks





Hey, thanks for the replay. Yea my old trailer doesn't have that sticker anywhere. Would be nice though. LOL





Thanks for the manual, I will use that for now jut for basic information. I pushed the slide out in, but now I know I have to use the battery, I will run it back out jumped to my vehicle. I thought something was jacked up. Thanks again.






Awesome, thanks for the reply. Yea I didn't realize any of that. Good info. I am now wondering if the battery charge is just drained, and now actually a bad battery. TT was sitting in a storage unit outside, not plugged in to shore power.



So, I now need to ask this. Right now my whole breaker panel is off. There are about 6 breakers in the panel. If I remember right, one of them said 12vdc (or 12something) on it. Would I need to flip that breaker in order for the shore power to start slowly "charging" the battery, or can that panel be off and battery charge just by being plugged in???


Sorry for being so NEW to this stuff. Haven't had a camper since I was a young buck, and that was my dad's 1986 Holiday Rambler.

There is a 120vac CB ( circuit breaker) for the converter and it will need to be energized for it to work. Having been previously owned I can't possibly know what 12v something is but try it. All the breakers should be on u less you are controlling the water heater 120vac heating element by using the breaker instead of a switch.

[derowe82]

Originally Posted by flybouy

There is a 120vac CB ( circuit breaker) for the converter and it will need to be energized for it to work. Having been previously owned I can't possibly know what 12v something is but try it. All the breakers should be on u less you are controlling the water heater 120vac heating element by using the breaker instead of a switch.

Thanks for the reply. I was able to squeeze my big butt past the slide out to get to panel. This is what's inside. Not too sure which one it would be.

Obviously AC is Air Conditioning and WHeater is for water heater. The only 30A is the Main, so would it just be that?

Thanks.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Thanks for the reply, and yes I found that out the hard way. I am new to slides, and guess would have never thought that a battery would be needed when shore power is connected. Thanks

Slides and leveling jacks take a crapload of bulk DC current (amps). Batteries are perfect sources of that.

When you are plugged into shore power, your converter charges the battery. It can replace all that bulk current, but at a much slower rate than slides and jacks use it up. If you try to operate a slide or jack just on what the converter puts out (when your battery is missing or depleted), at best you will get interrupted operation, and at worst you will damage your motors from undervoltage.

I had a couple of days during which i was having problems with my slide running for 6" then crapping out, over and over, during a time when my battery shutoff switch was turned off without me realizing it. I'm lucky I didn't burn it out.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Obviously AC is Air Conditioning and WHeater is for water heater. The only 30A is the Main, so would it just be that?

MIC would be the dedicated microwave socket. I'm assuming that RES12 has to be your non-GFI power outlets, as there has to be a breaker for those and that's the only one left. (Do you happen to have 12 non-GFI outlets?)

I know flybouy says you should have a separate breaker for your converter, but my rig doesn't have one either (image -- on mine, the outlets are labeled CONV for convenience). If I want to disable the converter, I have to flip the main breaker which shuts off that along with everything else. At least I assume it does, I've never depended on it, I've just unplugged shore power since it's more foolproof and produces the same result.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by LHaven

MIC would be the dedicated microwave socket. I'm assuming that RES12 has to be your non-GFI power outlets, as there has to be a breaker for those and that's the only one left. (Do you happen to have 12 non-GFI outlets?)

I know flybouy says you should have a separate breaker for your converter, but my rig doesn't have one either (image -- on mine, the outlets are labeled CONV for convenience). If I want to disable the converter, I have to flip the main breaker which shuts off that along with everything else. At least I assume it does, I've never depended on it, I've just unplugged shore power since it's more foolproof and produces the same result.

In your pic the CONV is converter not convenience, the GEN is the non-gfi recepticals.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by derowe82

Thanks for the reply. I was able to squeeze my big butt past the slide out to get to panel. This is what's inside. Not too sure which one it would be.

Obviously AC is Air Conditioning and WHeater is for water heater. The only 30A is the Main, so would it just be that?

Thanks.

Attachment 41435

I'm guessing it's the RES is the breaker but the only way to confirm that is to remove the panel cover and trace out the wiring and test with a meter. If you aren't comfortable with working on 120 vac then I'd suggest seeking the help of a qualified tech.