Refrigerator Fan Project

[markcee]

After watching some videos I've decided to order 4 fans to mount inside the top and bottom outside vents (2 each) to aid in removing heat from my slide-mounted Dometic 2872 refrigerator. I will be mounting the fans on the inside of the removal access panels.

Plan is to orient the bottom fans to suck in air and the top fans to expel it.

I want to wire the fans together, and install a single on/off switch between the fans and the 12v power supply.

Would this switch work for this application

Thanks for any feedback.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by markcee

After watching some videos I've decided to order 4 fans to mount inside the top and bottom outside vents (2 each) to aid in removing heat from my slide-mounted Dometic 2872 refrigerator. I will be mounting the fans on the inside of the removal access panels.

Plan is to orient the bottom fans to suck in air and the top fans to expel it.

I want to wire the fans together, and install a single on/off switch between the fans and the 12v power supply.

Would this switch work for this application

Thanks for any feedback.

Two things.....actually three
1. 20ga wire leads are no where near big enough for 20A of current.
2. I saw nothing (I might have missed it though) about whether of not these switches are water resistant or water proof. It might be a moot point if you are going to mount a switch in a totally dry area.
3. The one that you have pictured does have an LED in it and in order for that to work, you will have to being both 12+ AND 12 Neg to the switch. If you aren't using the LED part of it, then you don't need the 12V Neg lead.

You need to add up the current draw for all four fans and the total of them will be what is required to run the fans. I would also put an inline fuse in the circuit, close to wherever you are going to pick up 12V power. Size the fuse for the wire.....not the fans.

[markcee]

Originally Posted by xrated

Two things.....actually three
1. 20ga wire leads are no where near big enough for 20A of current.
2. I saw nothing (I might have missed it though) about whether of not these switches are water resistant or water proof. It might be a moot point if you are going to mount a switch in a totally dry area.
3. The one that you have pictured does have an LED in it and in order for that to work, you will have to being both 12+ AND 12 Neg to the switch. If you aren't using the LED part of it, then you don't need the 12V Neg lead.

You need to add up the current draw for all four fans and the total of them will be what is required to run the fans. I would also put an inline fuse in the circuit, close to wherever you are going to pick up 12V power. Size the fuse for the wire.....not the fans.

Thanks for the response. I should have linked the fans I am looking at....here they are.

Amp draw is supposed to be .42 per fan.

Very open to any additional product recommendations - switch or fan.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by markcee

Thanks for the response. I should have linked the fans I am looking at....here they are.

Amp draw is supposed to be .42 per fan.

Very open to any additional product recommendations - switch or fan.

OK, thanks for the link. So one other thing, specifically fan related....That fan is definitely an INSIDE fan....not water proof or water resistant....so make sure that wherever/however you mount it, it can stay dry when it raining and the wind is blowing the rain towards the vent covers. 2 amps total, so the switch should be good to go also with that small amount of current for all four fans.

Now, the next big thing to consider. One of the major issues with these absorption fridges is air flow across the heat exchanger.....or better said, the LACK of air flow across the heat exchanger. Adding fans will certainly help, but if there is too much gap between the heat exchanger and the inside of the wall where the vents are mounted, all that air movement can just move right past the heat exchanger. In other words....the air flow HAS to move across/through those coils and fins, not pass it by. Depending on how yours was installed, you may have to make something to help direct that air though the fins and across the coils. Blowing past the fins and coils just won't help much. Some folks call that the "chimney effect", but no matter what it's called, the air still needs to move effectively.

[markcee]

Originally Posted by xrated

OK, thanks for the link. So one other thing, specifically fan related....That fan is definitely an INSIDE fan....not water proof or water resistant....so make sure that wherever/however you mount it, it can stay dry when it raining and the wind is blowing the rain towards the vent covers. 2 amps total, so the switch should be good to go also with that small amount of current for all four fans.

Now, the next big thing to consider. One of the major issues with these absorption fridges is air flow across the heat exchanger.....or better said, the LACK of air flow across the heat exchanger. Adding fans will certainly help, but if there is too much gap between the heat exchanger and the inside of the wall where the vents are mounted, all that air movement can just move right past the heat exchanger. In other words....the air flow HAS to move across/through those coils and fins, not pass it by. Depending on how yours was installed, you may have to make something to help direct that air though the fins and across the coils. Blowing past the fins and coils just won't help much. Some folks call that the "chimney effect", but no matter what it's called, the air still needs to move effectively.

Thanks for the follow up.

I do have a baffle already in place that should direct the air in the proper manner. I'm just trying to get more air to actually flow up it, and then out.

Good point on the rain. I will dig a bit deeper to perhaps see if I can find some weather resistant fans, but these will be inside the compartment, attached to the inside of the louvered access panels.

Seems like all the YouTube mods I've watched use standard case fans. Perhaps the manufacturers (Titan, I think is one) that actually make 'cooling' units for this purpose utilize weather resistant fans...I'll have to do some further research and see what I come up with.

Edit: Quick search actually turned up several waterproof case fans, so definitely would go that route.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by markcee

Thanks for the follow up.

I do have a baffle already in place that should direct the air in the proper manner. I'm just trying to get more air to actually flow up it, and then out.

Good point on the rain. I will dig a bit deeper to perhaps see if I can find some weather resistant fans, but these will be inside the compartment, attached to the inside of the louvered access panels.

Seems like all the YouTube mods I've watched use standard case fans. Perhaps the manufacturers (Titan, I think is one) that actually make 'cooling' units for this purpose utilize weather resistant fans...I'll have to do some further research and see what I come up with.

I used the Titan twin fan with Controller on mine. It is water-proof. I'll add a link to the one I bought back in 2020 and have on mine...

Yowch.....they've gone up in price since I bought mine....here's the link....waterproof and dust proof and includes the controller, which I installed inside the camper, on the wall by the fridge.
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Ventila...7F2K5GCW&psc=1

[markcee]

Originally Posted by xrated

I used the Titan twin fan with Controller on mine. It is water-proof. I'll add a link to the one I bought back in 2020 and have on mine...

Yowch.....they've gone up in price since I bought mine....here's the link....waterproof and dust proof and includes the controller, which I installed inside the camper, on the wall by the fridge.
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Ventila...7F2K5GCW&psc=1

Yeah, going up like everything else!

I found a 2-pack of Titan 120mm waterproof fans for $37. Think I'll go with two 2-packs of them. No controller, but I think I can do without that.

As for that switch - goal is to route that to the inside of the trailer.

[xrated]

Originally Posted by markcee

Yeah, going up like everything else!

I found a 2-pack of Titan 120mm waterproof fans for $37. Think I'll go with two 2-packs of them. No controller, but I think I can do without that.

As for that switch - goal is to route that to the inside of the trailer.

That sounds like a good plan, and especially the part that you mentioned about having something in place to direct the air flow across the heat exchanger.

[flybouy]

My comment is about the switch. The switch you referenced would work if it's located inside in a dry environment. But why not use a thermal switch? Then you wouldn't have to be concerned with controlling the fans if needed.

[JJnLilly]

Did this with our last SOB that had refer in slide. It did make a world of difference. I wired the top into the onboard factory fan so they ran when it ran. The bottom ones were on a manual switch for when we were parked in the sun or it got very very hot.

[markcee]

Originally Posted by flybouy

My comment is about the switch. The switch you referenced would work if it's located inside in a dry environment. But why not use a thermal switch? Then you wouldn't have to be concerned with controlling the fans if needed.

I will look into doing it that way. Being in the SW and doing a lot of our RV'ing here in the heat, just kind of figured it would be an always 'on' thing. Going with a thermal switch would prevent a lot of unnecessary runtime though.

[Customer1]

The first step is to read the installation manual and fix all the mistakes the factory made. Blowing hurricane force winds thru there won't help if they bypass where the air needs to be. Most problems are caused by bad installations. You may need to remove the refrigerator and add baffles and insulation. I've done it to every RV I've owned.

[Kzneft]

I have two fans mounted on my OEM fridge in my toyhauler. Put one at the bottom and one at the top. Put a led switch on the plastic cover, so I can turn it on from the outside. It works very well when hot outside. I even get really good cold freezer temps.

[DavidAndDonna]

Originally Posted by markcee

After watching some videos I've decided to order 4 fans to mount inside the top and bottom outside vents (2 each) to aid in removing heat from my slide-mounted Dometic 2872 refrigerator. I will be mounting the fans on the inside of the removal access panels.

Plan is to orient the bottom fans to suck in air and the top fans to expel it.

I want to wire the fans together, and install a single on/off switch between the fans and the 12v power supply.

Would this switch work for this application

Thanks for any feedback.

I'm not sure about your switch, I used a toggle switch from Lowes and a plastic electrical box.
Mounted the fans by the top vent, our fridge had fans under the coils about mid ways up.

Also added 1" insulation atop of the fridge and then sealed with foil tape.

[markcee]

Originally Posted by DavidAndDonna

I'm not sure about your switch, I used a toggle switch from Lowes and a plastic electrical box.
Mounted the fans by the top vent, our fridge had fans under the coils about mid ways up.

Also added 1" insulation atop of the fridge and then sealed with foil tape.

Switch worked out fine, but the grand plan of adding multiple fans was a fail. I simply do not have the room to orient the fans on the vents and still be able to close them. I managed to get one fan installed above the coil, near the top of the lower vent, positioning it to draw air up the baffle towards the top. If I get bold, I may YouTube disconnecting/removing the fridge and then replace the original non-working fan that I see mounted about mid-way up the back of the unit.

Another post mentioned insulation as well. I took a look at the top of my unit and there is nothing there. I believe I have 2"-3" void. Perhaps insulating and foil taping should be next on my list.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by markcee

Switch worked out fine, but the grand plan of adding multiple fans was a fail. I simply do not have the room to orient the fans on the vents and still be able to close them. I managed to get one fan installed above the coil, near the top of the lower vent, positioning it to draw air up the baffle towards the top. If I get bold, I may YouTube disconnecting/removing the fridge and then replace the original non-working fan that I see mounted about mid-way up the back of the unit.

Another post mentioned insulation as well. I took a look at the top of my unit and there is nothing there. I believe I have 2"-3" void. Perhaps insulating and foil taping should be next on my list.

If you have a non operating fan you should remove it as it5now obstructing and hindering the airflow.

[DavidAndDonna]

Originally Posted by markcee

Switch worked out fine, but the grand plan of adding multiple fans was a fail. I simply do not have the room to orient the fans on the vents and still be able to close them. I managed to get one fan installed above the coil, near the top of the lower vent, positioning it to draw air up the baffle towards the top. If I get bold, I may YouTube disconnecting/removing the fridge and then replace the original non-working fan that I see mounted about mid-way up the back of the unit.

Another post mentioned insulation as well. I took a look at the top of my unit and there is nothing there. I believe I have 2"-3" void. Perhaps insulating and foil taping should be next on my list.

We keep our camper here at the house and keep plugged in, so I have the luxury of access and monitoring things. Before I added the "top" insulation I could watch the fridge temp rise when outside temps rose. "After" adding the top insulation the fridge maintains the same temp unless there's a drastic outside temp change AND the fridge door is not opened alot.

We used foil back insulation atop the fridge, cut the width to length, then cut again as to have two pieces I could get thru the vent opening. I layered the top with 1/2" thick pcs. and staggered the cuts to overlap each other. Then used the foil tape, to seal it off. Fridge maintains 34 degrees unless we open it alot or the temp gets into the 90's.

The insulation and installation is probably the most important thing on these LP fridges, and sometimes the factory install isn't up to snuff with fridge mfg. PDF installation guide.

Good to hear your switch works!

[bobbecky]

This fan on Amazon is similar to the fans used with the ARP protection devices and works very well. Wathai Brushless Cooling Blower Fan 120mm x 32mm 12V High Airflow DC Centrifugal Fan
You can go to the www.arprv.com site and see how the fans can be attached to the vent grills.

[Mic]

Originally Posted by xrated

I used the Titan twin fan with Controller on mine. It is water-proof. I'll add a link to the one I bought back in 2020 and have on mine...

Yowch.....they've gone up in price since I bought mine....here's the link....waterproof and dust proof and includes the controller, which I installed inside the camper, on the wall by the fridge.
https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Ventila...7F2K5GCW&psc=1

nice fans
though website claims IP55
Is IP55 rating waterproof?
Is IP55 waterproof? The short answer: No, IP55 is not waterproof. That's not to say that IP55 is not a good water-resistant rating. It is, but the most important factor that makes a phone waterproof is the O-ring seal.
rating a IP55 in terms of waterproofness, they can be exposed to light sweat/ moisture and dust but do not recommend showering with them.

not sure if rain is a shower or not...but IP67 is more suitable IMO

[Newbie 26RLS]

I've had help from Jack at Beech Lane. They are a USA Co. and sell their fans on Amazon. They also have the std. case fans, duallies and are similar to the Titans. I prefer dealing with USA co's if available and competitive and they are both, as well as very helpful and prompt in answering my questions.