Replacing Lippert (LCI) electric tongue jack switch

[KenJFerguson]

About halfway through our 2-month virgin trip with our new-to-us 2014 22RBPR the retract function of the LCI jack switch started to get intermittently temperamental indicating that it was on its last legs and needs replacing.

LCI has a detailed video on how to replace the switch that involves removing the cover and using pliers to push the failing switch out the opening from the inside of the cover. The process starts with removing 2 screws next to the manual drive nut under the rubber cap on top of the cover.

Upon removing that rubber cap I discovered that the heads on both those Phillips screws are rusted to the point that I can't remove them.

Has anyone replaced this switch from the outside without removing the cover? Looking at the retaining clips on the replacement switch I bought it would seem possible.

Thanks!

[flybouy]

For a 6 yr old tongue jack that's rusted I wouldn't waste the time. Obviously the previous owner didn't cover the jack. Most likely the motor or gears will go next. Our unit came with the LCI jack and I replaced it shortly after buying the camper. The LCI jack seemed slow, noisy, and seemed to "struggle" to me.

I replaced mine with a Husky Brute 4,500 lb with a remote control. Been going strong for 8 years now. I keep it covered with a vinyl jack cover that has a cinch string on the bottom.

[notanlines]

Any chance of returning the new switch? I think Marshall is on the right track.

[chuckster57]

I have popped them out, but the wires are real short, so you have to be real careful how hard you pull.

[sourdough]

I'm with Marshall. I replaced the LCI tongue jack on our 14 in 16 with a Stromberg Carlson 5k jack. The insides of my LCI got water in it through the rubber grommet on the top and wasn't worth the time to fix it IMO. IMO the SC unit (all they had) was OK but slow. I've heard good things about the Husky jacks.

[KenJFerguson]

I saw they were short in the LCI video and will be very slowly removing and hoping they come out far enough to pull off and reconnect to new switch.

[KenJFerguson]

You, Jim, and Sourdough are all correct on replacing rather than repair ... it is very slow, loud, and sounds overloaded with the gears sounding like they are grinding and according to the LCI manual no need/way to lube the gears. Seems like planned obsolescence.

A new one is on my spring shopping list with the folks at Robbies Hitching Post here in Cumming GA... along with new 15" wheels, radial tires (the PO but cheapo bias on to say with "new tires" in the RVTrader posting), wet bolts for the springs, Sumo trailer springs to dampen roll and a combo weight distribution/sway control hitch to replace the BlueOx WDH that came with the unit.

Unfortunately according to Robbie where we stopped at the END of our 9k mile trip, my biggest mistake was that despite lots of reading I bought a soccer mom SUV (Navigator) TV with 9k lb tow capacity but hydraulic, computer-controlled auto load leveling that has no "off" switch and no place for airbags and no bump stops which means every bump or passing 18 wheeler that changes the tongue weight causes the computer to react which means it is constantly trying to keep up with the changing load.

Right now I just need the switch to work a few more times for a couple of relocations ending at the storage place then down to Robbies in the spring where he tells me that despite my crappy TV the new hitch will help a lot.

[sourdough]

Ask him what hitch he is planning.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Ask him what hitch he is planning.

I’m wondering too.

[KenJFerguson]

With some effort I managed to jimmy the bad switch out the front of the jack cover ... very slowly and carefully. Sure enough, the wires came out just far enough to remove and connect them to the new switch which snapped back in easily. Given the advice to replace the jack, I picked up a $12 generic 4-pole switch at a small RV store that doesn't have EXT/RET printed on it but was a lot cheaper than the $46 OEM part that would have to be ordered.

Regarding the $600 WDH/sway control Robby wants me to install to replace the old BlueOx WDH, he closed at noon today but I will find out what he has in mind Monday. He told me that at the beginning of the season he anticipated supply problems and bought 10 with one remaining.

[notanlines]

Ken, before you pull the trigger on that hitch, post on here what brand and model, because $600 isn’t that much for a quality hitch, and there are a number of members here who will weigh in and tell you what is good and what to avoid. I’m a little wary of his ‘bought 10 and just happen to have one left.’

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Ken, before you pull the trigger on that hitch, post on here what brand and model, because $600 isn’t that much for a quality hitch, and there are a number of members here who will weigh in and tell you what is good and what to avoid. I’m a little wary of his ‘bought 10 and just happen to have one left.’

^^^ Jim beat me to the punch. Anytime I hear anyone say last one I get sceptical (unless it's a bartender at closing time). Post back when you get more info.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by flybouy

^^^ Jim beat me to the punch. Anytime I hear anyone say last one I get sceptical (unless it's a bartender at closing time). Post back when you get more info.

During the pandemic, the dealership I worked at ran out of round bar W/D sway and brake controls. We ordered pallets of W/D when we found them and cases of B/C when available. FWIW gp 24 battery boxes were non existent too.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

During the pandemic, the dealership I worked at ran out of round bar W/D sway and brake controls. We ordered pallets of W/D when we found them and cases of B/C when available. FWIW gp 24 battery boxes were non existent too.

What makes me sceptical is he said he was trying to get the camper back to the storage lot and was going to the dealership in the spring. I would hope the inventory would be replenished by then,

[chuckster57]

I’m like you, waiting to hear what brand/type of W/D he is talking about

[KenJFerguson]

You all can count on it ... so much expertise on this forum I am getting dizzy. Will report back on Monday when Robby (actually his son runs the day-to-day now) tells me what he's recommending.

[KenJFerguson]

Originally Posted by notanlines

Ken, before you pull the trigger on that hitch, post on here what brand and model, because $600 isn’t that much for a quality hitch, and there are a number of members here who will weigh in and tell you what is good and what to avoid. I’m a little wary of his ‘bought 10 and just happen to have one left.’

I called Robby's and spoke to his son who has taken over running the place. What he has is a Curt Trutrac. His "last one" doesn't come across as a sales pitch to me as I can see that they are slammed with work and so many people recommend them but rather as actual concern about supply. I certainly experienced the supply shortage when looking for a surge protector which I didn't find until half way through our trip.

What do you all think of the Curt Trutrac replacing an old BlueOx WDH for my rig (22RBPR 4500 dry, 2015 Navigator with V6TT with HD tow package and 3.73 axle ratio)

[sourdough]

Thanks for the update Ken. I'm not towed with the Curt TruTrac. I'm not a big fan of the spring loaded balls that use the detent for sway control. I have read a couple of positive comments on them over the years. I am partial to the Equalizer but they might be as rare as hen's teeth in this environment. I noted on Amazon that they must be out of the 1000/10,000 hitches because the only one they were showing was like $1275.

Which weight hitch are they selling you (they are not all the same)? I figure the 5-8k hitch is what you would want with a 6500 gvw trailer. Good luck.

[notanlines]

Ken, as Danny said, thanks for the update. I don't have years and years of WDH experience, and what I do have is with $600 systems, not great quality systems like in the $1400 range. I can find your hitch CHEAPER is that's a plus for you, but not much else.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...rt/C17499.html
Before you pull the trigger on that unit, at least call these people (easy to talk to and quite knowledgeable) and ask what they recommend. Your problem of course lies with the auto-load leveling and they may have an answer for that.
800-298-8924Phone
(ALL TIMES CENTRAL) MONDAY - FRIDAY: 7 AM - 10:30 PM
SATURDAY: 9 AM - 5 PM

[KenJFerguson]

Originally Posted by sourdough

Thanks for the update Ken. I'm not towed with the Curt TruTrac. I'm not a big fan of the spring loaded balls that use the detent for sway control. I have read a couple of positive comments on them over the years. I am partial to the Equalizer but they might be as rare as hen's teeth in this environment. I noted on Amazon that they must be out of the 1000/10,000 hitches because the only one they were showing was like $1275.

Which weight hitch are they selling you (they are not all the same)? I figure the 5-8k hitch is what you would want with a 6500 gvw trailer. Good luck.

I assume the same but will clarify with them. Thanks for the info on the Equalizer ... both its functionality and availability or lack thereof.

My decision may end up being no decision as I have the best of what is available which may not be the ultimate "best" solution although Robby's seems to think it will make a big difference over what I have. I'll ask him if he has any source of Equalizers but even if he does $550 versus $1275 has to be a factor to consider.