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Old 07-01-2018, 03:08 PM   #21
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eTrailer has a video on the initial setup of self adjusting brakes:
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-demo-nev...-tech-tip.aspx
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:18 PM   #22
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I put one wheel up and started clicking. I didn't get too far, assuming I was clicking in the right direction. I'll take it for another spin and pinch the brakes hoping something happens around the 500th pinch.
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:32 PM   #23
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Brake spoon “pull down” to tighten brakes..either side.
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:39 PM   #24
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Well I drove around for 45 minutes, clicking once every 5 to 10 seconds for at least 5 seconds long. At various speeds from 10mph to 40 mph. I couldn't tell any difference.

The one thing I noticed at the end of the drive was the smell of burning brakes. 3 wheels were between 90 and 110, and the front passenger wheel was 280 degrees. Maybe it was getting close to coming in, idk. There was no pulling on any braking.

Tomorrow I'll take the drums off, back off on the un-adjustments, and maybe sand the inside of the drums.

I'll chalk up today's wheel torques under some overdue stretching and pulling exercises and repeat tomorrow.
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:04 PM   #25
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Ben, I'm wishing you the very best tomorrow. I think it's probably just the backing off of the adjustment that has caused the dilemma and hope that it will be easily rectified. I know you've worked on this a lot and my thoughts are with you. Good luck and let us know.
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:41 AM   #26
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While I have the brake drum off. Should I sand the braking surface, the magnet surface or both?
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Old 07-02-2018, 12:11 PM   #27
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New shoes, just the drum.
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Old 07-02-2018, 01:22 PM   #28
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The front passenger wheel, that got hot last night, would hardly make 1 complete spin before I took the wheel off.

That drum was very difficult to remove, the brake pads had already engaged the drum surface. I eventually got it off and loosened the adjustment, guessing that wheel will probably not have any future problems adjusting.

It's back on now with a very.light drag.


When you say "burn them in"... how hot is too hot? I've seen a white hot brake drum a couple times in my life.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Two more wheels to go.
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Old 07-02-2018, 02:50 PM   #29
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When you say "burn them in"... how hot is too hot? I've seen a white hot brake drum a couple times in my life.

Brake SHOES do not like to get white hot as opposed to DISC brakes which are designed to be in contact with the rotors. Watch a night time NASCAR race and see what abuse the disc brakes can take. Drum brakes not so much. They fade when overheated. But with all that said take the above mentioned advice and make some good hard stops after they are adjusted up.
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Old 07-02-2018, 05:42 PM   #30
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Well it's been a long extended weekend, but I finally have some trailer brakes. Not enough to spill my red cup of...coffee.... but more brakes than I had on Thursday.

I could not take PTO today so I had to wait until the hottest part of the day to re-re-adjust the brakes.

I now have two wheels that register over 240 degrees after my 30 minute drive of constant brake controller pinching. I'm hoping all wheels adjust even more before my next panic stop or descent into Palo Duro Canyon on Wednesday.

Three trips to Auto Zone (the least helpful, I had to cross reference parts myself, they couldn't find anything anyways )
Two trips to ORielys Auto Parts, different locations because each store only had 2 bearing seals
One trip to the rv store
One trip to Napa auto parts... I wish I had stopped there first, they had everything, the staff there was genuinely interested in my situation, had plenty of (useful) advice.

Lessons learned:
Always watch more than one howto video from different sources for the task at hand
Reward goals achieved with a beer ( not just setting goals)

Anyways, thanks again for everyone who helped.

Safe travels to all this summer vacay season.

Btw our vacay destination is Fun Valley in South Fork CO
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alien_scones View Post
Well it's been a long extended weekend, but I finally have some trailer brakes. Not enough to spill my red cup of...coffee.... but more brakes than I had on Thursday.

I could not take PTO today so I had to wait until the hottest part of the day to re-re-adjust the brakes.

I now have two wheels that register over 240 degrees after my 30 minute drive of constant brake controller pinching. I'm hoping all wheels adjust even more before my next panic stop or descent into Palo Duro Canyon on Wednesday.

Three trips to Auto Zone (the least helpful, I had to cross reference parts myself, they couldn't find anything anyways )
Two trips to ORielys Auto Parts, different locations because each store only had 2 bearing seals
One trip to the rv store
One trip to Napa auto parts... I wish I had stopped there first, they had everything, the staff there was genuinely interested in my situation, had plenty of (useful) advice.

Lessons learned:
Always watch more than one howto video from different sources for the task at hand
Reward goals achieved with a beer ( not just setting goals)

Anyways, thanks again for everyone who helped.

Safe travels to all this summer vacay season.

Btw our vacay destination is Fun Valley in South Fork CO
Sounds like you are about at the end of your brake journey - I hope all of it works out right and it sounds like you are just about there.

Palo Duro - hope you have a great trip; and the brakes work as expected....keep breaking them in for a bit.

South Fork! We love South Fork. I don't remember where Fun Valley is but we don't RV when we go there...usually spend 3-12 weeks in a condo in Pagosa. I don't know when you were there last - we were there last year for 3 weeks, but it seemed the Rio Grande was getting much clearer from the fire a couple years ago. Lots of fun stuff around there. Have fun!
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:35 PM   #32
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It sounds like you're about finished with the changeout and adjustment of the self-adjusting brakes. Hopefully it'll all fall into place in the next day or two.

As a reminder, don't forget to retorque your lug nuts before you leave home. No doubt you remember, but a friendly reminder never hurts !!!

Enjoy your vacation and keep us posted on how much things improve over the course of the next few hundred miles.
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Old 07-05-2018, 08:59 AM   #33
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Saturn450

I would just upgrade to disk brakes.
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:33 AM   #34
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I had problems with same axle and brakes. If you refer to your pictures you’ll see the back plate is bolted to the axle with Allen head cap screws. This is not the standard way to attract the back plate. If you look at the back plate after it was removed you will see the spline marks left by the pressed in studs. I don’t know why the studs where removed and replaced by the cap screws. The cap screws are smaller than the hole in the brake mounting plate and the back plate. This allows room for error and the back plate can be mounted off center. I know there is alignment bosses on the mounting plate but apparently know one told the people on the assembly line and two of mine where mounted off center, over lapping the centering bosses. This caused the brakes to drag.
I hope you used the the studs that should have been pre-installed in the new back plate and not the under sized cap screws. If you used the cap screws make sure the back plate is centered.
My concern is that you have one brake that is a lot hotter than the others. That is the problem I had.
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Old 07-05-2018, 11:56 AM   #35
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My new brake assemblies came with press-in studs, with nuts and lock washers. The old nuts were ny-lock so I reused them. The studs didn’t need changed but I changed them anyway.

To adjust the brakes before use, I pulled the breakaway pin and rotated the drum forward (direction of travel) until I heard the adjuster click then backed off. I did this a few times then put the pin back in the switch to release the brakes. Then I checked for drag. This also helps to center the shoes in the drum before checking for drag.

To seat the brakes, I was told to take the trailer up to 50 mph on a straight road and use the manual control to slow to about 20 without the tv brakes. Do it 3 or 4 times.

Mine are 6000# AL-KO axles.
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Old 07-05-2018, 04:51 PM   #36
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I used the new bolts, lockwashers and nuts provided with the brake kits.

Due to multiple Colorado fires we had to take a detour and landed at fun valley a day early. We had to skip Palo Duro canyon.

Overall an ok drive drive but more white knuckles this trip than I remember. The WD bar was ok on the last pitstop, 60 miles before landing.

I guess I should start a new topic on the picture below.

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Old 07-05-2018, 08:05 PM   #37
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I'm not sure what you are showing but the brackets for the wdh bars should be square with the frame. And, what about the frying extension cable?
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:24 PM   #38
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That’s unnerving. I don’t see the “frying cable”, but I see part of the WDH missing. That’s not good.
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:41 PM   #39
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Entire Plate

It is MUCH easier and more economical to replace the ENTIRE BACKING PLATE than to change parts out individually. Pull the wheel and brake drum off, measure the diameter of the backing plate and the size of the shoes, go on line (EBay, Amazon, etc) and order the backing plate assembly. Comes already assembled with shoes, magnet, springs. Take the old one off (four bolts), put the new plate asslebmy on (use proper torque specs), connect the wires. Done deal Lucile. I’d also advise taking the drums to be turned and re packing the bearings (or replacing them if they are discolored) while you have the thing apart. Easy peezy. Nothing hard about it, just time consuming
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