|
|
07-01-2018, 03:08 PM
|
#21
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 1,196
|
eTrailer has a video on the initial setup of self adjusting brakes:
https://www.etrailer.com/tv-demo-nev...-tech-tip.aspx
__________________
2018 Jayco Eagle HT 265BHS (previous: 2015 23RB Passport Elite, ProPride)
2015 F250 XLT SB Crew, 6.2l gas
PullRite 16K SuperGlide w/SuperRail
Reese 5th Airborne (bagged) Pin Box
RoadMaster Shock Kit
X-Factor Cross Bracing
|
|
|
07-01-2018, 04:18 PM
|
#22
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colleyville TX
Posts: 106
|
I put one wheel up and started clicking. I didn't get too far, assuming I was clicking in the right direction. I'll take it for another spin and pinch the brakes hoping something happens around the 500th pinch.
__________________
2015 F350 King Ranch
2012 Yukon XL 2500
2012 Laredo 300RB
|
|
|
07-01-2018, 04:32 PM
|
#23
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,238
|
Brake spoon “pull down” to tighten brakes..either side.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
|
|
|
07-01-2018, 06:39 PM
|
#24
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colleyville TX
Posts: 106
|
Well I drove around for 45 minutes, clicking once every 5 to 10 seconds for at least 5 seconds long. At various speeds from 10mph to 40 mph. I couldn't tell any difference.
The one thing I noticed at the end of the drive was the smell of burning brakes. 3 wheels were between 90 and 110, and the front passenger wheel was 280 degrees. Maybe it was getting close to coming in, idk. There was no pulling on any braking.
Tomorrow I'll take the drums off, back off on the un-adjustments, and maybe sand the inside of the drums.
I'll chalk up today's wheel torques under some overdue stretching and pulling exercises and repeat tomorrow.
__________________
2015 F350 King Ranch
2012 Yukon XL 2500
2012 Laredo 300RB
|
|
|
07-01-2018, 07:04 PM
|
#25
|
Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,601
|
Ben, I'm wishing you the very best tomorrow. I think it's probably just the backing off of the adjustment that has caused the dilemma and hope that it will be easily rectified. I know you've worked on this a lot and my thoughts are with you. Good luck and let us know.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
|
|
|
07-02-2018, 11:41 AM
|
#26
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colleyville TX
Posts: 106
|
While I have the brake drum off. Should I sand the braking surface, the magnet surface or both?
__________________
2015 F350 King Ranch
2012 Yukon XL 2500
2012 Laredo 300RB
|
|
|
07-02-2018, 12:11 PM
|
#27
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,238
|
New shoes, just the drum.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
|
|
|
07-02-2018, 01:22 PM
|
#28
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colleyville TX
Posts: 106
|
The front passenger wheel, that got hot last night, would hardly make 1 complete spin before I took the wheel off.
That drum was very difficult to remove, the brake pads had already engaged the drum surface. I eventually got it off and loosened the adjustment, guessing that wheel will probably not have any future problems adjusting.
It's back on now with a very.light drag.
When you say "burn them in"... how hot is too hot? I've seen a white hot brake drum a couple times in my life.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Two more wheels to go.
__________________
2015 F350 King Ranch
2012 Yukon XL 2500
2012 Laredo 300RB
|
|
|
07-02-2018, 02:50 PM
|
#29
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: radium hot springs bc
Posts: 2,007
|
When you say "burn them in"... how hot is too hot? I've seen a white hot brake drum a couple times in my life.
Brake SHOES do not like to get white hot as opposed to DISC brakes which are designed to be in contact with the rotors. Watch a night time NASCAR race and see what abuse the disc brakes can take. Drum brakes not so much. They fade when overheated. But with all that said take the above mentioned advice and make some good hard stops after they are adjusted up.
__________________
2018 Ram 3500 6.4 Harvest Edition
2018 Cougar 27RESWE
|
|
|
07-02-2018, 05:42 PM
|
#30
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colleyville TX
Posts: 106
|
Well it's been a long extended weekend, but I finally have some trailer brakes. Not enough to spill my red cup of...coffee.... but more brakes than I had on Thursday.
I could not take PTO today so I had to wait until the hottest part of the day to re-re-adjust the brakes.
I now have two wheels that register over 240 degrees after my 30 minute drive of constant brake controller pinching. I'm hoping all wheels adjust even more before my next panic stop or descent into Palo Duro Canyon on Wednesday.
Three trips to Auto Zone (the least helpful, I had to cross reference parts myself, they couldn't find anything anyways )
Two trips to ORielys Auto Parts, different locations because each store only had 2 bearing seals
One trip to the rv store
One trip to Napa auto parts... I wish I had stopped there first, they had everything, the staff there was genuinely interested in my situation, had plenty of (useful) advice.
Lessons learned:
Always watch more than one howto video from different sources for the task at hand
Reward goals achieved with a beer ( not just setting goals)
Anyways, thanks again for everyone who helped.
Safe travels to all this summer vacay season.
Btw our vacay destination is Fun Valley in South Fork CO
__________________
2015 F350 King Ranch
2012 Yukon XL 2500
2012 Laredo 300RB
|
|
|
07-02-2018, 06:15 PM
|
#31
|
Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,601
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by alien_scones
Well it's been a long extended weekend, but I finally have some trailer brakes. Not enough to spill my red cup of...coffee.... but more brakes than I had on Thursday.
I could not take PTO today so I had to wait until the hottest part of the day to re-re-adjust the brakes.
I now have two wheels that register over 240 degrees after my 30 minute drive of constant brake controller pinching. I'm hoping all wheels adjust even more before my next panic stop or descent into Palo Duro Canyon on Wednesday.
Three trips to Auto Zone (the least helpful, I had to cross reference parts myself, they couldn't find anything anyways )
Two trips to ORielys Auto Parts, different locations because each store only had 2 bearing seals
One trip to the rv store
One trip to Napa auto parts... I wish I had stopped there first, they had everything, the staff there was genuinely interested in my situation, had plenty of (useful) advice.
Lessons learned:
Always watch more than one howto video from different sources for the task at hand
Reward goals achieved with a beer ( not just setting goals)
Anyways, thanks again for everyone who helped.
Safe travels to all this summer vacay season.
Btw our vacay destination is Fun Valley in South Fork CO
|
Sounds like you are about at the end of your brake journey - I hope all of it works out right and it sounds like you are just about there.
Palo Duro - hope you have a great trip; and the brakes work as expected....keep breaking them in for a bit.
South Fork! We love South Fork. I don't remember where Fun Valley is but we don't RV when we go there...usually spend 3-12 weeks in a condo in Pagosa. I don't know when you were there last - we were there last year for 3 weeks, but it seemed the Rio Grande was getting much clearer from the fire a couple years ago. Lots of fun stuff around there. Have fun!
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
|
|
|
07-02-2018, 06:35 PM
|
#32
|
Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,846
|
It sounds like you're about finished with the changeout and adjustment of the self-adjusting brakes. Hopefully it'll all fall into place in the next day or two.
As a reminder, don't forget to retorque your lug nuts before you leave home. No doubt you remember, but a friendly reminder never hurts !!!
Enjoy your vacation and keep us posted on how much things improve over the course of the next few hundred miles.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
|
|
|
07-05-2018, 08:59 AM
|
#33
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 27
|
Saturn450
I would just upgrade to disk brakes.
|
|
|
07-05-2018, 09:33 AM
|
#34
|
Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Pa
Posts: 75
|
I had problems with same axle and brakes. If you refer to your pictures you’ll see the back plate is bolted to the axle with Allen head cap screws. This is not the standard way to attract the back plate. If you look at the back plate after it was removed you will see the spline marks left by the pressed in studs. I don’t know why the studs where removed and replaced by the cap screws. The cap screws are smaller than the hole in the brake mounting plate and the back plate. This allows room for error and the back plate can be mounted off center. I know there is alignment bosses on the mounting plate but apparently know one told the people on the assembly line and two of mine where mounted off center, over lapping the centering bosses. This caused the brakes to drag.
I hope you used the the studs that should have been pre-installed in the new back plate and not the under sized cap screws. If you used the cap screws make sure the back plate is centered.
My concern is that you have one brake that is a lot hotter than the others. That is the problem I had.
__________________
2013 Laredo 240MK
2008 F250 4x4 lariat 5.4
|
|
|
07-05-2018, 11:56 AM
|
#35
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Apollo, PA
Posts: 61
|
My new brake assemblies came with press-in studs, with nuts and lock washers. The old nuts were ny-lock so I reused them. The studs didn’t need changed but I changed them anyway.
To adjust the brakes before use, I pulled the breakaway pin and rotated the drum forward (direction of travel) until I heard the adjuster click then backed off. I did this a few times then put the pin back in the switch to release the brakes. Then I checked for drag. This also helps to center the shoes in the drum before checking for drag.
To seat the brakes, I was told to take the trailer up to 50 mph on a straight road and use the manual control to slow to about 20 without the tv brakes. Do it 3 or 4 times.
Mine are 6000# AL-KO axles.
|
|
|
07-05-2018, 04:51 PM
|
#36
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Colleyville TX
Posts: 106
|
I used the new bolts, lockwashers and nuts provided with the brake kits.
Due to multiple Colorado fires we had to take a detour and landed at fun valley a day early. We had to skip Palo Duro canyon.
Overall an ok drive drive but more white knuckles this trip than I remember. The WD bar was ok on the last pitstop, 60 miles before landing.
I guess I should start a new topic on the picture below.
__________________
2015 F350 King Ranch
2012 Yukon XL 2500
2012 Laredo 300RB
|
|
|
07-05-2018, 08:05 PM
|
#37
|
Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,601
|
I'm not sure what you are showing but the brackets for the wdh bars should be square with the frame. And, what about the frying extension cable?
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
|
|
|
07-05-2018, 09:24 PM
|
#38
|
Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Apollo, PA
Posts: 61
|
That’s unnerving. I don’t see the “frying cable”, but I see part of the WDH missing. That’s not good.
|
|
|
07-06-2018, 03:41 PM
|
#39
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Yuma
Posts: 29
|
Entire Plate
It is MUCH easier and more economical to replace the ENTIRE BACKING PLATE than to change parts out individually. Pull the wheel and brake drum off, measure the diameter of the backing plate and the size of the shoes, go on line (EBay, Amazon, etc) and order the backing plate assembly. Comes already assembled with shoes, magnet, springs. Take the old one off (four bolts), put the new plate asslebmy on (use proper torque specs), connect the wires. Done deal Lucile. I’d also advise taking the drums to be turned and re packing the bearings (or replacing them if they are discolored) while you have the thing apart. Easy peezy. Nothing hard about it, just time consuming
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|