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Old 12-28-2020, 04:14 PM   #41
jasin1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1mike View Post
I know this an older one but just went through this with my 2012 Passport 3220BWHE. The extra rollers are not and option for my trailer because of how it is setup.
Here is my story.
Well this summer my main slide started chattering and hanging up. Would shake the whole trailer. Finally had some down time to look at it. I have these weird compression rollers on this slide. Only two. When the slide gets to end of travel outbound it sinks down, the rollers help push it up going in. They were bad, replaced them. No change. So the I adjusted the cables no change. I figured it was the wear bar/glide rail or the Darco on the bottom of the slide. So I called the dealer 4000 to 5000 dollars to replace the tray with the rollers and wear bar. Locally it was 3000 to 4000. Well I wanted to try something before throwing in the towel and trading in a paid for, no leaks, recently sealed, wheel bearings packed, everything works travel trailer.
So in comes the UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight Plastic). We use this stuff a lot at work. It has great lubrication and anti-abrasion properties. I had to jack up the slide so it was up off the wear bar. In order to get sheets between the wear bar/glide rail and the bottom of the slide.
I put three strips of on the bottom of the slide. 1/4 inch think, buy 39 inches long, the two strips on the ends are 8 inches wide. The one in the middle 10 inches wide. I attached it with 3/4 inch countersunk pan head screws. It raised the slide about a 1/4 of an inch so I didn't have to adjust anything. Tons of clearance. SUCCESS!!! Thing operates better than it did when it was new.





My wear bar and roller tray. There is nothing to attach the roller to and not enough space.
“ ultra high molecular weight plastic” I hear that in Clark Griswalds voice from Christmas Vacation when he is explaining the cereal he is working on to a coworker
.....But seriously that seems brilliant to me. Thanks
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Old 12-28-2020, 04:33 PM   #42
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I added three rollers to our 14 foot kitchen slide and it's helped a lot.
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Old 12-09-2021, 06:24 PM   #43
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Thanks for sharing!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbo65 View Post
Hey just letting everyone who has this issue and wants to go with rollers BAL makes rollers for the Accu slide
BAL is the accu slide manufacturer Owned by Norco

You’ll need to measure your wear bar because they have 2 size wear bars the used ...1/2 “ and 3/4”
Bal roller part number
1/2” 854304
3/4” 854303
Price was about 9.00 per rollers I got 6 for my 12’ slide

I know because am dealing with this issue now and called Bal tech support and thet told me I could get rollers to upgrade and these rollers can be ordered from colaw rv in mo. (Ask for Josh, really knows his stuff)
They probably have them in stock but If not Josh will drop ship from Bal to you. He had 4 in stock when I was ordering but I needed more so he drop shipped them to me I got them 3 days later
Thanks for sharing!
They were out of stock. With part number I was also able to find here:
https://highskyrvparts.com/rv-parts/...-roller-854304

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Old 12-09-2021, 07:13 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by timjwhite View Post
Keystone Passport 2016 Ultra Lite 2920bh: Not under warranty
After popping and shaking of accu-slide, I have been informed by the company that I will need to replace the gearbox on the accu-slide. In addition, the dealership now says that the wear bar is pinched on the left side of the slide (when slide is closed in camper). They believe the wear bar is "crushed" on the left side and needs to be replaced. They also suggested that I could use plastic rollers instead of a cheaply made wear bar. Price: 129.00/hr with 5-12 hours of work. plus cost of wear bar. Question: Is there anyway to inspect the wear bar before taking it to the dealership and letting them have their way?
Thanks for posting the question and thanks to all who replied and posted resources. I have paid for service to others in areas that they are much more knowledgeable and capable than I for years. I am happy to do so when they are fair and honest...and I have the financial means.

Since COVID, many have claimed to be in the RV repair business and, as such, have scammed me and others that I know (elderly). Most won't state whether they have any knowledge, experience or ability to repair an issue before they come out and you must pay them to take a look. Cost for them to listen and look to tell me if they can do the repair and at what cost ranges from $125 to $210.

Since May, I have had RV professionals out from three different RV repair companies to fix a Coleman AC unit. This is December, it still has the same problem! Second RV repair company out replaced all components (unit, control box and thermostat) with new, took my old unit and after I paid him said, "If it doesn't work I would have to call Coleman to request service on an under warranty repair." It did not work! He did not take my calls or respond to text messages or return my calls after the install. Wow! Called a third RV repair company. Paid him to come out. He said the unit (new unit that was installed by 2nd company) was no good. He said he would contact Coleman and order a replacement for me. I have called several times and texted regarding. Still waiting for replacement unit to come in!

It is time I at least try to do repairs myself!!!

I am a 60 year old woman with on and off physical challenges due to spinal injury. (Some days are worse than others.) I own a 35 foot 5th wheel and pay someone to move it when it is time. If I must take it to the dealer for slide out repair, dealer repairs (for me) will include dealer cost of repairs and finding and paying a driver to transport back and forth, plus hotel stay. Costly!!!

I will attempt this repair myself and if I fail...
take it to the dealer.
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Old 12-09-2021, 09:05 PM   #45
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If you do a search on this site under Slide Out Rollers, you will see the pics what I recently done to our RV, Good luck in trying to fix it yourself which ever way you go, the work as you mentioned done by many RV dealers is sub par so you might as well try it yourself, im sure you can do it...
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Old 12-10-2021, 01:49 PM   #46
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I was able to find the 1/2" rollers at a good price here.

https://autoplicity.com/search?searchterms=854304
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Old 01-17-2022, 12:09 PM   #47
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Do you need to loosen the cables before trying to jack up the slide?
I bought some 9" wide thin UHMW tape to put under the slide. I am trying to figure out how to get it in beyond the wear bar so its never catching a tape edge while sliding. Best I can figure is to jack up the slide, remove the seal/wear bar, apply the tape, and reinstall the wear bar.
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:09 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by CampNBrew2 View Post
Do you need to loosen the cables before trying to jack up the slide?
I bought some 9" wide thin UHMW tape to put under the slide. I am trying to figure out how to get it in beyond the wear bar so its never catching a tape edge while sliding. Best I can figure is to jack up the slide, remove the seal/wear bar, apply the tape, and reinstall the wear bar.

Chris what exactly is the product you are wanting to place under the slide?

It's not particularly difficult to raise the slide to get a uhmw strip over the wear bar, it is however a much more involved job to try to remove the wear bar which will probably require either hyper extending the slide (not for the faint of heart or those without some muscled up friends) or the removal of the slide (same applies).
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:32 PM   #49
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I found a roll of this UHMW tape:
https://www.zoro.com/tapecase-uhmw-p...-5/i/G5740065/

With the 15' roll I can get 5 strips under the slide. It is very thin so hopefully will not wear out too quickly.
I want to make sure I get it over the wear bar when installing it. I am hoping I can get it stuck to the slide about 2/3rds, then fish the rest between the wear bar and slide bottom at the wear bar then pull the remaining adhesive liner off. I'll need to raise the slide slightly to do so.
I am definitely open to suggestions/experiences.
Thanks!
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:45 PM   #50
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Others will probably post their opinions but I would be concerned with using the tape. It is apparently very thin meaning the wear bar might play havoc with it and the darco under it. The slide weight will be riding on that tape which is stuck to the darco which is lightly glued to the bottom of the slide (maybe). If the adhesive on the tape is really good it could tear the darco due to the stress/stretch of the slide riding on it creating further problems.

What problem are you trying to repair?
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:49 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampNBrew2 View Post
I found a roll of this UHMW tape:
https://www.zoro.com/tapecase-uhmw-p...-5/i/G5740065/

With the 15' roll I can get 5 strips under the slide. It is very thin so hopefully will not wear out too quickly.
I want to make sure I get it over the wear bar when installing it. I am hoping I can get it stuck to the slide about 2/3rds, then fish the rest between the wear bar and slide bottom at the wear bar then pull the remaining adhesive liner off. I'll need to raise the slide slightly to do so.
I am definitely open to suggestions/experiences.
Thanks!
You can use a 2x6 or a 2x8 about 10' long, position it "long ways" under your slide, above any ram fittings, put a hydraulic jack on both ends of the 2x6, jack the slide about 2" and you can see under the slide, above the wear bar, all the way to the carpet flap that covers the edge of the slide floor inside your RV.

It's easy to use a straightened coat hanger or a metal yard stick to push the tape through the space above the wear bar and into the interior of your trailer.

Don't go "jacking the trailer so you can fit your arm under the slide floor, you can conceivably jack the slide high enough to crush the slide roof or bend the trailer frame... A couple inches is all the room you'll need.
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:49 PM   #52
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The way I am viewing it is that the Darco is currently the sliding surface, and secured to the slide bottom / sides pretty well. The tape should actually reduce the friction of the slide pulling on the Darco, not increase it. The Darco is just beginning to fray in a couple spots (screw heads) so my thinking is to cover these to prevent further dragging.
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Old 01-17-2022, 01:51 PM   #53
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Thanks Danny and John for your responses.
I am wondering if I should loosen the cables (not hydraulic) before lifting the slide (slightly is all I need).
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Old 01-17-2022, 02:30 PM   #54
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If you apply ANY kind of tape over that Darco and then the tape rolls on a FIXED wear bar you will then have a bigger mess that you start with..

UHMW tape over a FIXED wear bar will not work…

UH!W strips that are attached over the Darco into the flooring with screws WILL work perfectly..
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Old 01-17-2022, 02:31 PM   #55
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No need to loosen any cables. The cables "suspend the slide box in the sidewall cavity"... Lifting the slide box will effectively "loosen the cables" as you jack the slide...
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Old 01-17-2022, 02:32 PM   #56
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My torn Darco repair made last year on one of my main hydrauilc slide outs.. The repair has worked like a champ. UHMW will never wear out

https://youtu.be/EtgzzhXodlk
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Old 01-17-2022, 02:38 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckS View Post
If you apply ANY kind of tape over that Darco and then the tape rolls on a FIXED wear bar you will then have a bigger mess that you start with..

UHMW tape over a FIXED wear bar will not work…

UH!W strips that are attached over the Darco into the flooring with screws WILL work perfectly..
I agree. Any "thin adhesive backed tape" is only as good as the adhesive and the "resistance to crumpling" of the material being stuck to the DARCO. A "thick UHMW strip" will resist crumpling much better than a thin UHMW strip. Then, if you've ever sprayed silicone or "dry lube spray" on the underside of the slide DARCO, how effective will the adhesive on the tape be at holding firmly on the DARCO.

Amazon has some 1/8" UHMW strips that are 4"x48". They also have some 1/4" UHMW strips the same size. I'd forgo the "adhesive UHMW tape for a more substantial "friction surface" and install it "permanently" with screws that are countersunk in the UHMW material. That "permanent" installation will be far superior to relying on an adhesive to hold a thin sheet of material on a questionable DARCO surface as it slides 800-1000 pounds of "slide box" over a "scratched up wear bar"....
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Old 01-17-2022, 04:10 PM   #58
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I would just add in addition to the previous posts; the uhmw "tape" will cause problems IMO. I don't know how it could be prevented unless it is thick. I've used 1/8" uhmw, both strips and sheets, and they do not bend, flex etc. They are great to run over a wear bar and do not flex, crumple, bend etc. like I'm afraid the tape will do. You can even get it in 1/4" but I've never seen the need for it as the stuff is very stout.

You said the darco is beginning to fray because of screw heads......what screw heads and where? If you have screws tearing up the darco they need to be fixed and not covered over with uhmw, you will still have a problem.

A detailed description of your problem and what's causing it would benefit everyone so they could give you the best solutions possible. I'm afraid uhmw tape isn't going to be it.
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Old 01-18-2022, 08:12 AM   #59
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Thanks all for the valid points here. My thoughts were that 45" of my ~72" slide would be covered by the UHMW tape (5ea x 9" strips) and this should be slippery enough to prevent binding. But as you say I would be relying solely on tape adhesion and if it did let go would create a sticky mess. Plus I am near Sacramento and we have very hot summers. I have seen plenty of adhesive products turn to goo in the 100F+ temps.

There are 3 large screws under each end of the slide (#3 Philips drive, flat head screws, countersunk into the slide floor). One screw was too close to the edge and overdriven at the factory thus the edge of the screw is protruding slightly.

The others have very slightly loosened over time, and the Darco is beginning to fray at these screw heads. It did make them easy to find and I tightened them all maybe 1/16-1/8 turn back to tight. I assume these are the screws holding the wall framing to the floor.

I see that people are using 3/4" screws to secure these UHMW skids. This makes me feel better as I thought the flooring was thinner and was nervous about screwing to it.
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Old 01-18-2022, 08:44 AM   #60
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Chris,

Another point to consider is that the UHMW "tape" adhesive isn't being "stuck on anything of substance"... If it was adhered to the slide floor, it might stand a chance. In reality, it's stuck to a "thin polyethelyne tarp" that's stapled to the bottom of the slide floor. On some trailers, the DARCO is glued to the floor, on other's it's just "laid there and held in place by the side molding strips"... Either way, the UHMW tape is only as good as the DARCO it's stuck to.

So, putting tape on DARCO is a lot like putting ice cream on a hot sidewalk... Before long, all you'll have left is the melted chocolate chips and a gooey mess.
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