Trailer Suspension Upgrade / Help

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

P.S. What is the measurement they are referring to between a 33" and 35" wheelbase?

MorRyde SRE4000 Suspension System SRE2-733X-1
This system is designed for a 33" wheel base - Tandem.

[chuckster57]

Most likely the distance from axle to axle at hub centerline.

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Most likely the distance from axle to axle at hub centerline.

Okay, that's what I was thinking. The larger rigs, with say 19.5" wheels, would require the 35" wheel base. I'll measure mine right now and I'd bet it's 33".

[Desert185]

Sounds like a reasonable solution for you. Add the CRE/3000 equalizer with wet bolt kit and you should, hopefully, be good to go.

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

Originally Posted by Desert185

Sounds like a reasonable solution for you. Add the CRE/3000 equalizer with wet bolt kit and you should, hopefully, be good to go.

I was thinking that the SRE4000 might be worth as it comes with the "XFactor Performance Crossmember for added frame strength".

I found it online for $386 whereas the CRE3000 was $220. Better equalizer plus the cross member?

I agree I need to include the wet bolt kit anyway.

Oh, I measured and my axles do measure 33" center to center.

[Jabber2Jake]

We have a 2010 Cougar 292RKS and have experienced the same things like broken pantry shelves, broken refrigerator shelves, etc.
Our solution is to only put foods that require refrigeration in the frige. Keep cans, bottles, all non perishable foods in boxes on the floor till we reach the campsite. And we will bring a big cooler with ice for things that are too heavy or delicate for the refrigerator. That goes for pantry items. Anything cans, dry goods, heavy items go on the floor till camping. We usually have rear water tank 1/2 full also. And we have same Trailair shocks.

[Desert185]

Originally Posted by Poppy's 5th Wheel

I was thinking that the SRE4000 might be worth as it comes with the "XFactor Performance Crossmember for added frame strength".

I found it online for $386 whereas the CRE3000 was $220. Better equalizer plus the cross member?

I agree I need to include the wet bolt kit anyway.

Oh, I measured and my axles do measure 33" center to center.

Because of the increased arm of the 4000 system from the chassis itself, I think the X Factor braces will provide more structural integrity, which is probably why they designed them. There's a lot of twisting during a tight turn.

[wmcclay]

I raised mine 2 Inches with spring blocks. I bought 2 inch steel as long as the spring perch and had it cut to spring width. Then drilled it for spring center bolts. purchase longer spring center bolts and bolt block to spring with it. Then get grade 8 ubolts and torque them, several times as they will loosen. I believe I spent less than a franklin on everything.

Good Luck

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

Originally Posted by wmcclay

I raised mine 2 Inches with spring blocks. I bought 2 inch steel as long as the spring perch and had it cut to spring width. Then drilled it for spring center bolts. purchase longer spring center bolts and bolt block to spring with it. Then get grade 8 ubolts and torque them, several times as they will loosen. I believe I spent less than a franklin on everything.

Good Luck

I don't suppose you have any pictures of the parts before assembly and or assembly pictures? I was just going to buy kits but 2 kits (4 blocks with U-bolts) is almost $400. And they don't show new "center" bolts. I have delayed this project because we were seriously considering trading the trailer for a new one but I think we need to come back down to reality as we would be out just too much money. Therefore I need to get back on this project before we take our next trip.

[dm1401]

Just looking at this from a different way. I think before you spend a whole bunch of money on the trailer, maybe look at the tow vehicle first. My thinking is that it is too stiff (Air bags etc) or too bouncy (porpoising) and the rear end of the trailer is going up and down like crazy. I agree that shocks may solve the problem, but maybe the source of the problem is the truck. Can you tell me/us about your truck, how old are the trucks shocks, do you run air bags etc. I have zero experience with 5th wheels. What do other forum members think of this approach?

[concours]

Out TV has RideRite air bags and we run with 30lbs of air in each side the shocks were replaced last year as the OEM shocks were done at 48,000kms the trailer has the CRE3000 and wet bolts, the trailer works great and we have had no breakages so far but we are careful how we pack

[Poppy's 5th Wheel]

Originally Posted by dm1401

Just looking at this from a different way. I think before you spend a whole bunch of money on the trailer, maybe look at the tow vehicle first. My thinking is that it is too stiff (Air bags etc) or too bouncy (porpoising) and the rear end of the trailer is going up and down like crazy. I agree that shocks may solve the problem, but maybe the source of the problem is the truck. Can you tell me/us about your truck, how old are the trucks shocks, do you run air bags etc. I have zero experience with 5th wheels. What do other forum members think of this approach?

Good idea but I'm pretty sure it's not the truck. Truck rides very well. You would know something was amiss riding around in it all the time. I put new Bilstein 5100 shocks on it last year and I have had airbags since I bought it. I also put a Mor/ryde pin box on the trailer a couple years ago. I'm pretty sure my problem lies in the tire upgrade. I was running too much air pressure (as suggested by someone else here) and I lost my "top of tire to floor of trailer" clearance so it may actually be touching over big bumps in the roadway.

I have already lowered the air pressure 10 lbs and I need to focus on recovering my tire gap by adding 2" of frame lift. Or, I may just trade it in on a new one