A little long winded, but expected so thanks for the amount of detail you've provided.
Here's a guess:
The battery is connected to the 50 amp circuit breaker and from there, it splits to operate the brakes, slides, break-away switch and tongue jack. All of those are "always on" The "other split" goes to the battery cutoff switch and from there, to the trailer lighting systems, furnace, refrigerator, etc (through the DC fuse panel in the power center)...
The short could be "almost anywhere" and caused by "almost anything"....
That said, I'd put my money on either a factory staple through a wire or a connector that vibrated loose and is now grounded to the frame or damaged insulation from road vibration....
How to find it ??? That's going to depend on where it is...
I'd start by turning off the battery cutoff switch. Then see if it still causes the breaker to open. If it does, then it's probably something in the "always on side" If the breaker doesn't open, then it's probably something "in the BCO side"...
That will divide your search to "half the wiring" rather than "all the wiring".
From there, I'd go to the 50 amp breaker that keeps opening, loosen all the connectors on the "far side of the breaker" and using an ohmmeter, check each one for continuity to ground. You may be lucky and find the wire that's shorted (causing the problem) and find where it's touching the frame or you may have to trace that wire "from the front to the rear" of your trailer.
My thoughts are that somewhere, a wire has rubbed against a metal component, rubbed the insulation off the wire and fortunately (might not seem like it right not) that breaker protected your trailer from burning to the ground....
Anyway, hopefully this will get you started. Let us know how things go and I'm sure more suggestions will follow. GOOD LUCK !!!!!
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John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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