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Old 06-30-2019, 07:27 AM   #1
vulcanwayne
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AC not keeping unit cool

New 2020 model 3221bh passport with ac duct system. Unit does not provide sufficient airflow through overhead duct system to keep the trailer cool during daytime hours max of 95 degrees outside temps. Any suggestions?
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Old 06-30-2019, 07:57 AM   #2
Alpine
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Well now.... Welcome to the "Information Station!" I did a brief look at the specs of your travel trailer and it is very nice indeed. There will be other members along with more technical info and fixes. What I did notice however is that Keystone put only 1 AC unit on a 37 foot travel trailer... that is asking a lot from one AC unit. However there are a couple of simple inexpensive things to do to help your "right now" situation.

If you have the regular floor vents coming from the furnace, they can be covered with "magnetic floor vent covers" purchased from any big box store, Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes etc. This will keep your cold air from filling up your duct work coming from the furnace. You can also make a cardboard cover for the cold air return vent(s) that go directly to the furnace.
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Old 06-30-2019, 07:58 AM   #3
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The Passport 3221BH is a 37' trailer. It comes "standard" with a 13,500 BTU air conditioner. The optional 15,000 BTU unit helps "a bit", but in reality, it will take at least two rooftop units to keep that trailer cool in 95F temperatures.

Some things you can do to help are:

Check the air return/supply box (in the filter area on the ceiling unit) to make sure the two are properly sealed. If cold air is being "sucked up the return" rather than being pushed through the ducting, it will reduce efficiency.

Check all the ceiling duct outlets to make sure they are properly sealed so no air is being lost into the ceiling cavity and all the cold air is being delivered into the rooms.

Check the "end run" beyond the last ducts to make sure they are sealed and not "allowing cold air to flow into the ceiling cavity.

Don't park in direct sunlight,

Keep the shades pulled to prevent hot sunlight from shining into the trailer.

Keep the awning extended to "shade" the side of the trailer from direct sunlight.

Start the air conditioner early in the day. It's easier to maintain the cool than to "overcome the hot"....

Consider a second rooftop unit if you have 50 amp shore power service. If you don't have 50 amps, then you're going to need to focus on the above suggestions since a second rooftop unit isn't an option without "very expensive electrical modifications"....
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Old 07-04-2019, 05:30 AM   #4
DDavis
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I second JRTJH's comments. At the suggestion of other posters to the same issue, I checked my 2018 Cougar A/C plenum and found that the flimsy foam sheet that had been used to separate the intake and exhaust areas had collapsed allowing cold air to flow into the intake area even before it gets to the cover/filter area. Yesterday I taped it up with HVAC tape and now the air blows out the vents 10x better than it did.



You also will need to check the way the interior cover seals to the metal framework for the same problem. I added a layer of foam tape to that to improve separation of the airflow even more.
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Old 07-04-2019, 05:48 AM   #5
NH_Bulldog
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I did a post with pics on this not too long ago. I had several issues that compounded to make the AC incapable of cooling the trailer. 1st as noted previously was the divider between supply and return wasn’t sealed. 2nd was that the ducts out of the supply plenum were either blocked with tape (one side) or not connected (the other side). 3rd was that the ceiling vents were not sealed to the ducts. 4th was that one of the end runs was open at the end. 5th and final was that the freeze sensor on the condenser coil was misplaced and was shutting off the unit thinking it had frosted up. After addressing all these issues (took an hour or two), that unit chills my camper like you wouldn’t believe.
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Old 07-04-2019, 06:52 AM   #6
Northofu1
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I use these.

https://www.amazon.ca/JR-Products-AC...05401586&psc=1
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Old 08-06-2019, 12:32 PM   #7
Jimmie M.
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I just recently picked up a 2014 Bullet Premiere 31BHPR - having some of these similar air issues. I followed the steps above as far as sealing ducts etc. airflow is 10x better, will see how it does overall cooling in the camper. I called Keystone and my unit isn’t braced/wired/ducted for a 2nd a/c so fingers crossed!

My buddy has. 2018 Hideout 272LH with smaller a/c and it freezes you out!
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:02 PM   #8
Jimmie M.
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Should the exhaust/intake vent be “sucking” the filter up?
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Old 08-08-2019, 04:05 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmie M. View Post
Should the exhaust/intake vent be “sucking” the filter up?


Welcome to the forum!!

If the filter isn’t secured to the grill then yes the AC will probably have enough air movement to pull it up into the return.

There may be tabs that you can use to put rubber bands across to hold it. When the AC is operating if you don’t get a 20 degree drop in temp at the grill then you probably need a new unit.
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Old 08-08-2019, 04:19 AM   #10
Jimmie M.
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Thanks - I haven’t tested the temp, it feels cold as long as you’re right next to it/under it, move away a foot or 2 and it’s just cool air.
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:31 AM   #11
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Not sure why Keystone would sell a 37' trailer with only a 30A service. Seems it wouldn't cost them much, if anything to toss on a 50A service and wire/brace a vent hole for a 2nd A/C if the customer found that a 13.5K btu A/C was a virtual waste in terms of cooling a trailer that size. Looking on Amazon, a Progressive Dynamics 70A converter is virtually the same price as their 55A units. Cords probably cost more and the 1x3s used to brace are probably not a big deal nor is the install if the ceiling hasn't been tacked on yet. And worse, to put a 13.5K btu a/c in a trailer that size when a 15K unit is only nominally more expensive? Keystone should be ashamed and the designer of that thing should be duct taped to the bed on a 100F day with that A/C system pumping its best!
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:42 AM   #12
Jimmie M.
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When I called Keystone and gave them the VIN, they did say mine was the upgraded 15k Unit, if that matters any. Anyway for me to check?

My buddies 272LHS is 13,5 and it freezes you out.
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Old 08-08-2019, 07:58 AM   #13
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I had a problem with air circulating in the wrong direction.[IMG]/Users/jk032116/Downloads/"ac intake"[/IMG], [/IMG]/Users/jk032116/Downloads/"ac exhaust"[/IMG], take off the four screws on the bezel and then the two screws of the deflector. turn deflector 180 degrees reinstall the baffle, reverse to reinstall the deflector and bezel. temp dropped from 84 to 72 degrees in about an hour
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Old 08-08-2019, 08:01 AM   #14
Jimmie M.
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I can’t see your photos
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Old 08-08-2019, 08:25 AM   #15
wiredgeorge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmie M. View Post
When I called Keystone and gave them the VIN, they did say mine was the upgraded 15k Unit, if that matters any. Anyway for me to check?

My buddies 272LHS is 13,5 and it freezes you out.
I have a 27' fifth wheel. I upgraded my 13.5 to a 15K btu new A/C. Helped only a bit. I sealed all my ducting with care. I covered all my windows with 80 percent tint (keeps 80 percent of UV out and they are DARK!). I carry an 8K portable A/C that I vent out a cabin window when temps are 100F plus. Still not as cold as I would like but passable.

Some reputable Texas dealers will only order their larger trailers (where available) with two A/C units and even then, direct Texas sun and lack of shade in many parks will make it tough to keep cool in August. There ain't much insulation in an RV!!!
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:39 PM   #16
CaptnJohn
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When I ordered my 34’ Cougar I ordered 2 ac units. My HC arrived with 2. My Montana has 3. No trailer over 26’ should have only 1 ac in my opinion. Not even if you do not travel to the hottest areas.
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