Weight Distribution Hitch balance

[bucketman]

Question is???? (If you have a Weight Distribution hitch set up perfect,) how much weight is put on the trailer wheels and how much is put on the tow vehicle. With a 600# tongue, would it be 300 and 300? I have plenty of towing capacity, but limited payload capacity. Thanks in advance for all the answers. I just upgraded to a 2013 F150 Platinum Ecoboost and the payload really sucks.

Jim

[RGene7001]

Hi, Jim
It's generally believed that weight distribution, if done right, can transfer approximately 10-15% of the tongue weight back to the trailer and my experience supports this. Tension bars apply very high force to the towbar and hitch head which is a pivot point in order to transfer a few hundreds pounds down the lever which is the frame or unibody of the vehicle. 600lb, in reality more, move from the tail of the vehicle and become equally distributed between 4 wheels, so the vehicle balance, traction and ability to handle it's weight as well as trailer forces are restored. Some weight goes to the back but due to longer trailer frame it's not that much; just enough to remove hitch hardware weight from your payload, nothing more. I can't draw diagram here, sorry

[GaryWT]

As said it is more to put weight on the front wheels of the truck. My F150 has a payload of 1700 which is better than many but I am at the limit.

[bucketman]

You guys have confirmed what I believed all along. I was hoping for a different answer. I did a little more research and someone said use the axel ratings instead of the cargo capacity and I would come out better. My axel ratings are 3900 front and 4050 rear. Cargo rating is 1090. I'm going to the scales this week and find out for sure were I'm at. Tongue weight dry is 590 and I would estimate 700 loaded. With the wife and I in the front seat and no other cargo,we are at 1100 payload. I guess I didn't realize how much more the options on the Platinum weigh over an XLT. Will let you guys know how scales go. Thanks for the replies.

Later,
Jim

[Hansel]

The way too check is to take your truck/trailer too the CAT scales, that will tell you exactly how much weight is on each axle.

Here are my scale results,

Steer Axle: 3780lbs

Drive Axle: 3540lbs

Trailer Axle: 7320lbs

Gross Weight: 14640lbs


Truck by itself:

Steer axle=3780 lbs
Drive axle=2780 lbs

Gross wght= 6560 lbs

I'm alittle light on tongue weight, but I moved the spare tire up into the front storage area, and when we load up for trips we put all the water,drinks,etc.. up front too help out with the tongue weight.

[bucketman]

I went to the cat scales also to check out the weights even though the TT pulled very well.

With Trailer
St Ax=3400
Dr.Ax=3600
Tra Ax=5280
Gross Wt 12280

Truck alone
steer 3500
drive 2820
gross 6320

To me it shows that no weight has been distributed to front axle. All the measurements on the wheel well heights were well with in spec according to EquaLizer guidelines. I tightened up torsion bars one notch and I will see how the ride is next time I hook up. Hope it's not too stiff.
2013 F150 Platinum. This all started because I noticed the gross carry Capacity was only 1090# on that truck after I bought it. Some one told me to check that I should probably go by the axle rating to see if I'm overloaded and I seem to be fine there.

[RGene7001]

I don't think this is a good advice to go by axle ratings because the law states that the GVWR of the truck should not be exceeded. What is your GVWR from the door sticker? You already got 7000 lb with trailer attached. Did you have occupants in the truck and stuff/ water in the trailer at the time of measurement?
Moving the hitch one notch up is appropriate, hopefully it will help if the hitch receiver is strong enough, currently you still have the weight on your tail and it unloads the front axle which is not good.
Best of luck.

[Hansel]

Originally Posted by bucketman

I went to the cat scales also to check out the weights even though the TT pulled very well.

With Trailer
St Ax=3400
Dr.Ax=3600
Tra Ax=5280
Gross Wt 12280

Truck alone
steer 3500
drive 2820
gross 6320

To me it shows that no weight has been distributed to front axle. All the measurements on the wheel well heights were well with in spec according to EquaLizer guidelines. I tightened up torsion bars one notch and I will see how the ride is next time I hook up. Hope it's not too stiff.
2013 F150 Platinum. This all started because I noticed the gross carry Capacity was only 1090# on that truck after I bought it. Some one told me to check that I should probably go by the axle rating to see if I'm overloaded and I seem to be fine there.

You lost 100lbs on the steer weight, you need too adjust the WD head (tilt) so that it transfers more weight onto the steer axle. There is a fine line IMHO of having it right and having it wrong. It took me several attempts to get my hitch set up properly, and it's amazing how much easier it tows now that the truck and trailer are set up right.

[bucketman]

Originally Posted by RGene7001

I don't think this is a good advice to go by axle ratings because the law states that the GVWR of the truck should not be exceeded. What is your GVWR from the door sticker? You already got 7000 lb with trailer attached. Did you have occupants in the truck and stuff/ water in the trailer at the time of measurement?
Moving the hitch one notch up is appropriate, hopefully it will help if the hitch receiver is strong enough, currently you still have the weight on your tail and it unloads the front axle which is not good.
Best of luck.

Gene,
7200
The trailer was loaded and I was in the truck at the time. I have 200# left to play with. My wife is 120 so that gives me enough to put the bikes in the back an be right at the limit. This will always be in the back of my mind when towing, so I feel pretty comfy with it.
Jim

[bucketman]

Originally Posted by Hansel

You lost 100lbs on the steer weight, you need too adjust the WD head (tilt) so that it transfers more weight onto the steer axle. There is a fine line IMHO of having it right and having it wrong. It took me several attempts to get my hitch set up properly, and it's amazing how much easier it tows now that the truck and trailer are set up right.

Hansel, do I have to tilt head to achieve the transfer of weight or can I get away with tightening torsion bars one notch?

[Hansel]

Originally Posted by bucketman

Hansel, do I have to tilt head to achieve the transfer of weight or can I get away with tightening torsion bars one notch?

I adjusted mine by tilting the head, because I didn't want too start messing around with the chains. I took what was like 1/4" adjustments at a time too finally get my truck sitting right and I also had to adjust the hitch height because the trailer was riding nose up

[audio1der]

I consider moving up a chain link or hitch head height "course adjustment", and moving the hitch head angle "fine adjustment". Playing with the three variables will pay dividends and ensure you can tow comfortably and (within limits) safely, and enjoy your RV, which is the whole point.

[SeadooRider]

Originally Posted by Hansel

You lost 100lbs on the steer weight, you need too adjust the WD head (tilt) so that it transfers more weight onto the steer axle. There is a fine line IMHO of having it right and having it wrong. It took me several attempts to get my hitch set up properly, and it's amazing how much easier it tows now that the truck and trailer are set up right.

I tried setting up my weight distro hitch today and didn't see alot of difference in the front/rear measurements as compared to my hitch without it. I'm thinking from your response above I need to tilt the WD head more towards the trailer? Right not it is sitting almost level. I'm still dropping 2-2 1/4 inches in the back when the tongue weight is added to the truck.

suggestions?

Thanks,

[Hansel]

Originally Posted by SeadooRider

I tried setting up my weight distro hitch today and didn't see alot of difference in the front/rear measurements as compared to my hitch without it. I'm thinking from your response above I need to tilt the WD head more towards the trailer? Right not it is sitting almost level. I'm still dropping 2-2 1/4 inches in the back when the tongue weight is added to the truck.

suggestions?

Thanks,

Yes, tilt the head back this applies more weight transfering too the TV, what you want is the front of the vehicle too stay at the same height or really close too it, the rear should drop between 7/8"-1 1/2", I thing 2"+ might be too much. Ounce you think your close take the truck/camper too the CAT scales and get you axle weights, then unhook the camper and weigh just the truck. For me my steer axle weight stayed the same so I have my hitch perfect, and now that the camper is slightly nose down and the hitch set up properly it tows alot better, plus I added a custom chip for an extra 65hp for towing

I by all means am not a hitch expert, but if this info helps that's what counts.

[audio1der]

@Seadoorider; what is your TV//TT setup? Some 3/4 and 1 ton TVs have quite a bit of squat but have lots of payload/towing capability left. If its a half ton, have you considered airbags? (If it's an 09+ dodge half ton with the coil rear suspension the Airlift 1000 setup is under $100 and completely eliminates sag, and helps greatly with sway, too)
maybe changing the approach a bit and trying to level the rear of the TV will help transfer more weight up front in itself.

[theeyres]

Very little weight is transferred back to the trailer axles. Not enough to worry about. The whole point is to transfer some of the trucks rear axle weight to the front axle so the truck will pull properly. Get that truck back to sitting like it is when unhooked and you will be good to go.

[Bob Landry]

Originally Posted by theeyres

Get that truck back to sitting like it is when unhooked and you will be good to go.

That is not completely true. The front, yes, the rear, it doesn't matter relative to weight distribution. For some reason, many people refuse to accept that the purpose of WD is to return the front end to the original weight, not to level the truck. In some rare instances, you may end up with a level truck, but that is rare. Any truck, even with properly adjusted WD is going to have some rear end squat.
In no hitch installation instructions are you ever going to find a reference to getting the TV level. You can compensate with bags and lift springs, but that only levels the truck. It does not change capacities and it does require you to readjust the WD.

[audio1der]

Originally Posted by Bob Landry

In no hitch installation instructions are you ever going to find a reference to getting the TV level. You can compensate with bags and lift springs, but that only levels the truck. It does not change capacities and it does require you to readjust the WD.

That is what I was trying to build on, Bob. Maybe getting his rear end up a little would pay dividends in a) making him feel better because its squats less and b) changes geometry to his advantage, putting more tilt on the hitch head as a starting point.

[RGene7001]

Lets go back to our lever (frame). Rear axle is the fulcrum. We will assume for simplicity that wheelbase is 3 times longer than rear overhang. We put 900 lb on the hitch, so we will have 300 lb of lifting force over the front axle so it gets lifted. In order to get it to the same point as before the hitching we have to transfer 300 lb upgront. What it means is that 600 lb still hang on the rear end and get the truck squatted, softer characteristics of rear spring is another factor. This is probably acceptable, but not ideal. Ideal balance means transferring 450 lb, which will cause at least minimal sagging of the front springs as well. The truck may get level or may not, depending of rear spring firmness vs front. I have wound springs in all 4 corners so getting level is not a problem; pickups are different, BUT SOME LOWERING OF THE FRONT IS HIGHLY DESIRABLE, in my opinion

[SeadooRider]

I'm pulling a Passport 238ml with a 2010 Toyota Tacoma Pre runner quad cab. Prior to adjustment I was dropping about 2-2 1/2" in the rear and rising about 1-1 1/2 in the front. Now I'm dropping only 1" in the rear and only lifting 1/2" in the front. Haven't driven with the setup yet so we'll see if it is better with the changes this weekend.

Thanks