Sway Control Idea

[Hansel]

I have a Laredo 284BH that has a Reese WD set up with a single friction bar, now my issue is with the swaying of the trailer. I'm going too double check the ride height of the truck to make sure the WD hitch is properly set up, I did notice that watching a video on youtube the guy was installing Drawtite kit#7903 and I notice that the head assemble had a spot on both sides of the head for a ball that the friction bar mounts onto, does anyone use a double friction bar set up?? or is the dual cam set up the way too go???

I've searched around alittle and can't seem too locate that head that was shown in the video, I'm thinking it would be more cost effective too just add a 2 friction bar if I could find this head that has the ball mount on both sides

[Javi]

I use two friction bars, it works great as long as the tongue weight is between 10% - 15%... and the trailer is level to slightly nose down... get light or nose up and sway can start...

[B&T]

A left side friction sway bar either comes with a steel plate or you buy it separately. Then you must get the plate welded on to you head.

An example:

http://accessories.etrailer.com/sear...trol%20adapter

[B&T]

Just more info:

The Curt Friction Sway control comes with a weld on plate for left side installation.

http://www.curtmfg.com/part/17200

[JRTJH]

There are double ball heads available for some hitches. We had one for our Holiday Rambler and used 2 sway controls, one on each side of the hitch. It helped some, but as many have said, friction sway control bars just don't seem to provide enough dampening for trailers over 25' or so, We finally went with the equalizer bar type sway system.

[Hansel]

I did see where the Curt WD have the double adjustable head, but I've been thinking about the dual cam by Reese but I was pondering an idea

[Hansel]

Went out and took some measurements:

Truck sitting no load: Front= 35 1/8"
Rear= 38 3/8"

Truck/Camper Front= 35 1/8"
Rear= 37 1/4"

Adjustment Front= 35 1/8"
Rear= 37 3/8"

After a small change in the head angle, my truck only lost 1" instead of the 1"+ but the trailer will tow slightly and I mean slightly nose up, but I'm talking the front is only like 1 3/4" higher than the rear.

Does this sound more acceptable???

[Javi]

You want nose down or level... not nose up

[fla-gypsy]

Originally Posted by Hansel

I did see where the Curt WD have the double adjustable head, but I've been thinking about the dual cam by Reese but I was pondering an idea

The Dual Cam system is an integrated system and is highly respected and very effective. You cannot go wrong by switching to a dual cam set up

[Hansel]

Originally Posted by Javi

You want nose down or level... not nose up

Then won't the truck be loosing too much in the rear????

I thought anything over 1" drop of the truck in the rear is too much.

So which is more important????




PS. School me like you did on those Hoyt Cam-n-half

[Rick1300]

You need to adjust your ball height not your entire rear end height.

[Javi]

Originally Posted by Hansel

Then won't the truck be loosing too much in the rear????

I thought anything over 1" drop of the truck in the rear is too much.

So which is more important????




PS. School me like you did on those Hoyt Cam-n-half

Drop the ball mount down 1 hole and then re-adjust the angle so that you get the proper load on the bars... This should lower the nose of the trailer while keeping the truck level to 1" down in back...

[Hansel]

Originally Posted by Rick1300

You need to adjust your ball height not your entire rear end height.

Originally Posted by Javi

Drop the ball mount down 1 hole and then re-adjust the angle so that you get the proper load on the bars... This should lower the nose of the trailer while keeping the truck level to 1" down in back...

Thanks guys, NOW I get it

I knew it Javi, Keystone/Hoyt Tech.

[Hansel]

Update:

Dropped the ball/head assembly 1 hole, and adjusted the spring bars.

Truck measurements:
Front 35 1/8" no load
Front 35 1/4" trailer load

Rear 38 1/2" no load
Rear 37 1/2" trailer load

I did notice that the truck did not have too work as hard as it has in the past towing the trailer, still getting some sway but its controlable

[Javi]

Originally Posted by Hansel

Update:

Dropped the ball/head assembly 1 hole, and adjusted the spring bars.

Truck measurements:
Front 35 1/8" no load
Front 35 1/4" trailer load

Rear 38 1/2" no load
Rear 37 1/2" trailer load

I did notice that the truck did not have too work as hard as it has in the past towing the trailer, still getting some sway but its controlable

Put another washer in and give the ball mount slightly more tilt... should help even more..

[Hansel]

Originally Posted by Javi

Put another washer in and give the ball mount slightly more tilt... should help even more..

It doesn't use washers, but I should tilt it more???

[labs4life]

Doesn't use washers?? Is it a set screw type set up??

[Javi]

I would.. Not a lot, but about a degree or so


If you put a level in the floor of the trailer is it slightly nose down now?

[Hansel]

Originally Posted by labs4life

Doesn't use washers?? Is it a set screw type set up??

Originally Posted by Javi

I would.. Not a lot, but about a degree or so


If you put a level in the floor of the trailer is it slightly nose down now?

The hitch has these side plates that are grooved that mate into grooves in the hitch itself, make sense?? Trailer is sitting almost dead level, it might be just a hair nose down when looking at the level.

[Javi]

Try 1 or 2 more of the notches on the washers... If it were mine I'd want the front of the truck down a little more..